Picked up my wife's childhood pin this weekend after it sat in a trailer, in a field, for two decades. I got rid of the mouse nest and replaced the three fuse holders that are always junk on these and that got it to wake up, kind of. I've since cleaned off ALL the, uh....debris.... and waxed, with new rubber.

When the game is turned on I see all zeroes on player 1, "4" followed by all zeroes on player 2, then both go blank and the credit display goes nuts. Looks like 08/88/etc, just over and over. Tilt bulb lit. Clearly something isn't happy. Both tilt switches look fine and aren't engaged. LED1 on (dim) but quickly off when powered on. LED3 & LED4 both on, then off, then back on when powered on.

I pulled the board to check for cold solder joints (didn't see anything) and to polish the edge connectors. With the board removed I turned the machine on and observed the behavior in picture 4. The displays never went blank. Board back in, same behavior as before. Looks like I'm getting a solid 5V at the capacitor on the board and I don't think there are any issues with power delivery, but I'm not sure what I can check next. Any ideas?

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It's not perfect and still has a couple of not so great spots plus typical planking for its age but it's a wonder what novus 2 and carnauba wax can do! You'd be disgusted to see the cloths I used to get the job done!

The first two pics are 'befores'. There were a few spots like that, with actual mouse crap crusted on the playfield. The rest was like in pic 3, which was to show just how much filth was on it...

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The nasty crusty original fuse holder? I pitched it. It was destroyed anyway. Two of the fuse holders were broken.

I really hope I can get some help diagnosing or can send the board somewhere (I assume I probably have in-cabinet issues to resolve as well, even with fully refurbished boards) so I can get this up and running for my wife. I know she's really looking forward to playing it again. But I'm completely out of my league when it comes to PCBs, and I know absolutely *nothing* about ALI.

Yeah, that's what I'm hearing. I've been talking to him in a FB group. I figure I'll eventually have to just send the board and that's fine..I just have no idea what kind of money I'd be looking at and I wanted to see if there was anything I should try prior to doing that. I'm a Williams guy, so I'm definitely out of my element with this thing. I'm willing to spend some money on it, for my wife, but not flat out CRAZY money...if that makes sense....

Considering the conditions I dragged this thing out of (trailer in a field for the past 20 years) I expected VERY little out of it and assumed it would be deader than dead, prompting a very long term rebuild. Getting it to spring--kind of--back to life with the three fuse blocks replaced pushed me to clean it up in a hurry (took a day) and psychologically got me in a frame of mind where I felt like it could be up and running soon-ish. Kind of coming back down to reality now. :\

Ugh. I'm definitely feeling like this project is going to be very frustrating, although I do have a good friend about 60 miles away who collects cocktails. So I've got SOME help and parts available, but as far as actual board repair goes...sounds like there's only one option there. I just wish I had some kind of idea on cost as I sent it off. Really hard to justify putting hundreds (by that I mean $500+, not $200-300) into..a roy clark.. even with the sentiment pushing this project forward.

I haven't confirmed that the board is bad. I'm clearly getting some kind of response from it, with the controlled lights and on the displays. But it's not working right. I notice that first plug on the bottom (so in the left corner of the board) seems to be the one that makes it reset.. It looks to me like it's starting, then resetting and getting hung there.

My friend does have some ALI machines and said I was welcome to both try my board in his otherwise working (ish. the kickout isn't working I guess?) Circa 1933, and vice versa to try his board in my cabinet so I could isolate issues. Unfortunately he's not just right down the street (he's about 60 miles away) so I can't just quickly go test, but I do plan on meeting up with him in the next couple of weeks.

I did polish the edge connectors, but nothing changed on the way the board behaved. I checked for cold solder joints or anything that looked weird on the board..nothing looked burned or otherwise out of place, but again I'm not a PCB repair guy. It's absolutely possible I could have missed something.

I'm getting a solid 5V on the capacitor on the board. That seems good, and I don't see any ripple (although I could certainly be doing something wrong there..I've never done that test before, even though it seems like it should be pretty simple).

I'm okay with pulling chips and things off -- although I've never done it before -- but I want to make sure I approach it correctly as I'm definitely concerned I could damage this thing further. Any suggestions there?

Attaching these in case it's helpful to see them, i can delete this post afterward to clean up the thread a bit.

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I was going to try jumpering the ground and +5VDC to the board as indicated on the flippers.com page but my red connector doesn't even KIND of match. It does look like the board in the picture matches the number on my board (PCB50250125H), so I'm at a loss for why my connector is so different.

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I don't mind leaving everything I posted so long as it's not considered unnecessary and unwelcome clutter.

Yeah, I'm afraid to change anything with any of the wiring because of uncertainty with wires, etc. I did download the manual and a few things stuck out to me. The controlled lights that are on seem to match test mode four, like somehow the board is going into that test and getting stuck? I don't know. Also my LED3 and LED4 never go off again after they temporarily go off and then come back on (simultaneouslythe scores in both player 1 and player 2 are blanked and never come back).

I tried disconnecting the plug that has all of the wiring for the test switch, start button, etc, just to see if maybe that changed anything but unsurprisingly it did not.

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The board does seem to do the same thing if I connect ONLY the power (red) and nothing else. LED1 comes on (dim) and then goes off. LED3/LED4 come on, go off, then come back on and stay on. Obvioiusly my lighting situation is different with nothing else hooked up, but the board seems to be indicating it's doing the same thing without being hooked to anything other than power. Unless there's something weird with that plug.. But I'm definitely getting a solid 5V at the capacitor and I didn't see any ripple.

Looks great! I was hoping to try my friend's but it wouldn't boot. Looks like a fun game!

Did find out today that my wife's long-slumbering, rat-harboring Roy Clark appears to work with a mostly functioning board. Now it's time to send like 7 boards to Canada for repairs...

The metal side piece I do have (its gross, as you might imagine) plus the one I'm taking off a parts machine will be going for powdercoating.

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A friend of mine down south does all my stuff. Maybe it's time to send him some parts for taxi too...

Fixed all the drops (switches needed reassembled with new tubes and bigger screws to tap the plastic housing) except for A, which is physically broken. Tied the contacts together for now so the bank can be completed and reset. Couldn't repair it enough to allow me to get it back in there, but I should have a new one soonish...I hope. I have a bunch of flaky sockets to deal with too now that LEDs are in..but the board I scrounged up seems to function perfectly, so that's nice. Another board won't fire the right sling and another won't fire the left pop, and another won't credit a game but seems to start fine otherwise. Going to look over the schematic and see if I can test components that maybe I can replace on the first two boards.

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I plan on sending several off to John but I figured if I could easily fix the ones that were 95% there, maybe it made more sense to just do those myself. I'm by no means a pcb repair guy but I can learn... lol

I need to pick up my friend's night moves and try diagnosing that too. Little more support out there for that one than for these ALI games!

Hell, *I* barely know who Roy Clark was!

Lol. I love it.

As for my wife's roy, I did some more tearing down (researching why the p2 display likes to put a leading 4 on the score) and cleaned up the rest of the rat...er..debris. and added a trough light, because why the hell not? My friend is working on creating new stone new drops.. no idea if we'll have any success there or not. I do have replacement parts that can be salvaged from parts machines but new stuff that's easily available would really be nice.

I've also got a few flickering lights after LEDing... but I'm getting closer with it. Once that's all fixed all I really want to do is implement some sort of free play configuration and then replace the ball with a lighter one.

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Oh, and I'm bringing my friend's Night Moves home here soon to try and get it up and working for him. When I was over I put the boards back in and when I turned it on it made some kind of weird...clicking... noise, and then switched to just GI. Not sure if that means the MPU is toast or not but I told him I'd get it running.. and maybe play the hell out of it for a bit... lol

Agreed. It's TRYING, it just seems It's shutting down to protect itself.

Do you know if this game has a voltage pot like the system 3 games do? When I got my Cactus Jack's home I was sure it was dead and I did it with the long drive.. until I discovered the voltage pot and adjusted it to 5.05V.

Bringing one of those home tomorrow (just on loan), but not working. I'm excited to try it!

As promised, Night Moves is on its way to my house to be brought back to the land of the living before coming back to its home at my friend's house..the cocktail warehouse! Once it warms up a bit and he's a bit less busy, we're bringing
a bunch of these cocktails back to life. 6 allied leisure boards are packed and heading to Canada tomorrow.

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Got it to boot, just needed to mess with the voltage pot like I suspected. Credits up but won't start a game. Doesn't seem to recognize a ball in any of the saucers (I assume it should kick them out, right?)

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Short-lived success. Went to test mode and it seemed to get hung (was able to verify function of right flipper and both pops, left flipper wouldn't work) so i power cycled and it was back to flaky behavior. Now I can't get the voltage pot right again so it will boot.

Where's the test point to actually measure the voltage from adjusting that pot?

I'm getting all sorts of strange behavior on this. I suspect the MPU is....problematic... but I hate to tell my friend to just buy the swemmer board if he potentially has other issues. I've gotten it to boot a couple of times but otherwise it's been weird/glitchy behavior as I adjust that pot. Seemed 5-5.2V at the mpu was giving me the best chance for boot but I couldn't get it again after the prior boots.

This was the last time i got it to boot. Wish I had taken the voltage when that happened.. it's not wanting to boot now.

The mpu was loose, along with a few other boards, when I first looked at this. I didn't clean any edge connectors so I'll try that. The original battery is indeed still on the board.

I think we were also talking on facebook; I'm getting no boot now. Bummer.

//edit
I pulled the mpu to check edge connectors again and they already looked fine but I used an eraser on them again to be sure. No change in the game. Only GI now. Fuses all test good.

Checked the big cap in the base of the machine and pulled a solid 12.95V. I'm fine with just assuming this is a board issue and sending it off or replacing, just want to make sure I check off all the other things that could have caused this behavior first. Although, with it not booting at all now.. not sure I can really test anything until boards are sorted. Not sure what damage I did to these last night, but it's doing nothing now.

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Also, I'm assuming the ground for the reset board goes here, is that correct?
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Having duplicate games so boards can be dropped in is great. That's what allowed me to quickly figure out that my roy was otherwise working and just needed a working board (well, that and an unobtainable drop target). He does have a Mars God of War but afaik that's as close to 80B as either of us has.

I highly doubt that's anything to be concerned about. Mine is doing *nothing* right now. No LED there or on the MPU. So, I'm sure you're fine. Play it and have fun!

I got mine to do......something....by messing with the 100uF cap on the MPU. Actually I noticed it when I had the DMM probe leads on it to mess with voltage again. It went from doing *nothing* to at least lighting some lights and doing other various things. Still can't get it to actually boot again, but it's as though that jarred it into at least TRYING to work again. Not really sure where to go from here..do I just pull the MPU and send it off? Say hell with it and buy the Swemmer? Light the entire thing on fire and tell my friend I'm sorry, it grenaded itself (not seriously proposing this...lol)?!

I went through the manual this one came with a couple of times but it didn't really help me much. I assume the MPU has issues (as I was told it might when I started looking at this)..so I pulled the MPU/Solenoid Driver Board/Power Supply board and they're on their way to Chris Hibler today. I figure that if the game is doing weird stuff (IE some controlled lighting, but not all, random solenoid firing, random flashers flashing...etc) with a solid 5.15V supplied to the MPU...it's probably not worth investigating further until I know for sure the boards are good. Guess now I wait a few months for my spot in the queue before I can get back to it. :\

Yeah, it's weird that I was able to get it to boot at all tbh..I couldn't reproduce it the next day and it was doing all sorts of crazy stuff. I think it should be okay once it's bulletproofed..I hope...

Interesting info on the reset board. So it won't affect operation at all having that unplugged? Guessing that means I also don't need to concern myself with that ground wire?

I'm working on the targets and corresponding plastic threaded tubes now. Hoping to have those wrapped up soon. Our Roy is down a target right now, too.

Iirc John has been out of stock for quite some time now. I checked there first

I think I have access to enough parts to fix my roy but tbh if I could just replace the entire set with something wacky and new, might as well do it.

I sent off 6 ALI boards for John to work on, hoping for 4-5 working. My friend has machines just needing boards so they can likely be made working again (first pic is like 6 cabinets stacked two high--not all ALI). Fingers crossed.

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My friend and I decided that the lack of parts support and in general, interest in these games period, stems from a lack of support of the boards. If there were more than just one place to send them for repairs...or a replacement altogether... I think far more people would be interested in these. And with more interest, parts supply would likely follow.

Considering how many of these damn things my friend has, I should probably learn how to do board repair so I can fix any that crap out on him. I have zero experience doing such at this point but reading the schematics and testing--plus visual inspection--isn't really all that damn hard...but there's not really any reason why I couldn't do it. And our Roy isn't going anywhere, since I rescued it and fixed it for my wife. I just sent off a bunch of the parts (including the coin box....lol) to be powdercoated.

My second player display likes to put a leading 4 on the score for some reason. It's definitely something with the display though because it consistently does it regardless of which main board is in the machine, and other machines DON'T do it with those same boards. IIRC it does it even when I switch P2 for P1 on my game, too. I know I did that test..but I don't know if I documented the results anywhere.

I figured I'd just pull one out of my friend's stash. Mostly because I'm lazy. Really I should just fix it and then do the same mod you just linked.

Eros definitely looks cooler than the Roy I had no choice but to fix. Maybe I'll see if I can pilfer a populated Eros playfield at some point so I can drop it in this cabinet from time to time. I believe my friend has at least one extra/homeless Eros playfield. Granted at this point I have no idea how many working boards to expect back, of the 6 (? Maybe it was 5....I don't remember) I sent. Two should be super easy. But the rest... no idea.

Still working out the kinks. They're not going to be perfect copies, by a long shot, but they'll be serviceable. I'll swap out all four of mine with the replacements when they're done so they match. I'm hopeful they'll be done soonish.

Nylon plastic rod? Mine have metal rods..? What am I missing?

Speaking of Wico...

I had an Af-Tor (one of my first pins)...I kinda miss that game.

Yeah, ditto. For me it's a Roy Clark that was covered in rat crap for 20 years... who really cares lol

Ah yes. We're doing both the target itself as well as that threaded plastic piece. Both of those broke on one of my targets.

The first attempt didn't have enough strength on the part that sits inside the plunger, and the bore wasn't big enough for the screw to go through. The first attempt on the target was actually probably just fine, if I had done some smoothing on the edges. But I didn't want to mess with it until I had the entire assembly ready.

I did find an appropriate set screw to lock the two pieces together.

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Oh wow I've never heard of that one, that's sweet!

LMAO.

Yes!

My friend showed me a rethemed Kiss into a Slayer at a party he went to...lol. It had mechanical score reels sitting ON TOP of the back box and *no* flippers -- they replaced them with pop bumpers.

Only two rules on the rule card:

1. Go F*ck yourself
2. DIE!

Glorious.

Beautiful machine. I'd love to try one of these some day, but holy crap they're spendy (if you can even find one!)

Rotation VIII

My Roy was covered in rat piss too. I used Novus to clean it all up--my cloth was naaaaaaaasty. It actually came out fairly nicely. I bet this one would be similar. There were a few spots that just flat out couldn't be repaired (IE where it got under the paint/clear and warped the surface) but there were only a few of those. Pressure washer sounds aggressive LOL

Ahahahahahahaha grossssssssssss

Oh man, 200 bucks..great deal! I was just in Oklahoma buying an Avengers LE last week... but I only made it so far as Guthrie. You win this round

You might see if there's anything listed on flippers.com. Other than that I'd just suggest the tried and true methods: here, ebay, etc. I'd think you can find most anything...except targets..although it may take some time. Nice find!

Looks great! Nice pickup!

Those look great. My friend has some for me to test also (he did both the target itself as well as the piece it connects to, as mine is broken on my Roy Clark), I just need to get him over here to see how they fit.

He 3D printed his.

Is there any way to repin an allied plug? From my understanding the pins themselves have just about completely disappeared from the face of the earth?

It's one of these green ones that plugs into the mpu. Note the two pink wires that are pulled completely out.

If repinning isn't an option I'll hack one off one of his parts playfields but I'd much rather just repin one.

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Since we seemingly have a wealth of extra playfields, some of which won't be going into cabs, I think we're going to just clip off a connector. Hopefully we have a good non-corroded one. Pita.

Helping a buddy out, I brought 7 (of the 8 he didn't bring with him when he moved) cocktail pins home to refurb/clean/sell (at least I think that's his plan):

Star Trip x1 (had to leave the parts machine, ran out of room)
Foxy Lady x2
Take Five
Circa 1933
Night Moves
Spectra IV

Guess my winter is pretty well spoken for...oof.

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He said it worked the last time he played it a few months ago but the battery was weighing heavily on his mind also. I'm hoping for the best on that one. I'll try to get it off of the trailer tomorrow so I can start investigating.

Thankfully I do have the top, it's just not on it right now. No idea why he wrapped the inside like he did, but... yeah. We pulled the top because we originally planned on putting it in the truck. But it was too wide to push in far enough to close my tailgate so we had to reverse course and go with two 'normal' cocktail cabs in the bed. The Spectra top ended up wedged behind the two cocktails along with the playfields and spare glasses. Thankfully everything made it here safely.

I'll probably pick it up at some point when I'm a bit further along with these. He didn't sell the house, this just helped him clear some stuff out. Right into my shop.. lol

I'm crossing my fingers HARD that this spectra still works and the battery has not leaked. No idea what it's worth in working condition but I know in non-working condition it's not much!

No signs of life when plugged in. I haven't done any debugging yet but it doesn't look like anything has exploded, at first glance. I'll go dig some more later. I still have two more cocktails to unload from the trailer.

Night Moves is having issues booting and with controlled lamps working properly, too. Not sure what the deal with that one is, as I've worked on it before and Chris Hibler refurbed all the boards. Some digging to do there also...

Night Moves is definitely a fun cocktail pin. This one was actually in my shop several months ago because it had board issues. But when I got it back from Hibler, all was great again. Well, aside from the fact that the flipper coils get HOT no matter how I adjust them (they seem to work fairly well) and I never was able to get that sorted. This time when I gave it power it was having trouble booting, then it did..but with controlled lamp issues. It let me play a game (albeit with those lamp issues) and I turned it off. Now it won't boot again. I checked connections and swapped a couple fuses but no such luck. I'll check the voltage next to make sure it's in range. IIRC those Gottliebs are quirky in that the voltage can get a bit goofy from one location to another, but can usually be dialed in with that potentiometer..Correct me if I'm mistaken there, but that's what I'm pulling from memory.

I'm guessing Spectra is one of those weird games where GI doesn't just come on as soon as power is supplied to the machine? I figured I'd at least get that, but I got *nothing*. I'll check the board and go from there.

Okay so I'm dumb re: spectra. But I'm super confused. I didn't realize there were two toggle switches (I was flipping the one in the back). Toggling the front one, it boots. But it's in the middle of a game somehow and I've advanced all the way to ball 12 or something???? Can't seem to get it to end the game no matter what.

Night moves is booting and playing again but controlled lamp problems persist. Idk.

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Thanks, I added it to my favorites for now.

Finally unloaded the last two. Looks like they both have bad boards, bummer.

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Thanks, it's a bit chaotic at the moment but I'll get it a bit better sorted out soon. The shop is 50x30 but that area is maybe 30x15.

Taxi needs to be delivered (I was going to shop it ahead of time, but I'm thinking maybe now I'll just deliver it to my buddy as is since it plays fine, and then I can do a full shop later for him), F14 needs to be sold (I already shopped it), and I need to get my ass in gear with my two Mata Hari hardtops (one is down and in the cabinet, but still needs some gremlins handled, the other is on my rotisserie to the left, needs stripped/sanded/applied), and wrap up Gorgar (waiting on a new set of displays but then I just need to rebuild the flippers, adjust pops, and fix drops).

I'll probably work on the Allied stuff first because once I put a fourth working drop in my Roy Clark, it can also leave. I've accumulated far too many projects in here for my own comfort, it's time to get some of them out of here.

Drops? Yeah, I'm still not thrilled about that situation. My buddy still has SEVERAL ALI games which he took with him, and another friend now has a Roy and a Super Picker (uses the same drops). We're going to need some long-term solutions and scrounging up whatever we can find isn't the way to do it. My wife wants to try resin casting the parts to see what we can come up with. I have low hopes of it working worth a damn, but I'm going to let her give it a whirl.

Ultimately I have what I feel is a better design figured out and I'm all ready to have Swinks make a bunch of them, but it's going to probably cost around $15-20 per target/assembly. Ultimately, I feel like that'll fully resolve the issues and prevent them from breaking, but it's still a tough pill to swallow at that kind of price and I know most people would be out.

//Edit just realized you were only referring to me saying I could dump Roy

My Roy is a family heirloom, my wife's childhood pin. But it's not staying here, it's going to her dad's to live there. So when I say it's "gone" I simply mean it's out of my shop. Not gone gone.

My issue is that my Roy target was completely smashed, both parts. A friend of mine got pretty close with 3D prints for both parts but never got it fully dialed in, then got busy with other things and told me he couldn't keep working on it. Bummer.

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I was going to grab it but it's not booting. Too rich for my blood with a dead board. Looks super cool in terms of art.

Yeah I saw gameplay on it and it doesn't look fun lol. I was almost tempted to buy it and see if I could rewrite the code with an arduino or something but... you all saw my shop... lol

Those both look fun.

Star shooter scares the hell out of me with all those drops.

Imo that's a solid price for you. Looked like a nice game.

Spliced in a different connector (poached from a spare Roy playfield) on the board on my buddy's Take Five and it appears to boot fine... but won't credit. Bleh. I'll try swapping the board to something else to see if the board has issues.

The Spectra IV won't respond to any button pushes on or inside the coin door. I'm not sure if that means it needs "cleared out" or what. I've not gone through and manually examined every switch yet, though, so I guess that's next.

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Dumb question but could desoldering the battery not dump any straggler data?

400-600 if it's in good working condition. Imo.

Worked out in the shop today. Did some researching on the Foxy Lady that works but won't detect the ball in the outhole -- it's got some strange wiring coming off that switch and an odd board. Compared to the other Foxy Lady that's in my shop (missing the MPU and has the topside torn down), I'll remove that board and see where I'm at. It works otherwise.

Star Trip wasn't booting (look at that MPU, YIKES!!!) but somehow...I got it to boot, and play..100%. I absolutely did not expect that. So now I guess I'll tear that one down, shop it, and make it actually play well.

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Fixed the outhole situation (although I've not officially removed the board just yet) on foxy lady and verified it's working properly. Still needs a good shop job before it can be listed, but things are looking up on that one. Unlike Star Trip with its UGLY mpu, it appears a remote pack was installed before nicad detonation on this Foxy Lady. It needs a lot of adjustments but should be a pretty quick shop-out.

Star Trip definitely has some intermittent grumpy behavior (shocker, with that MPU..) but it's down to just needing shopped out too.

Tbh I kinda like Star Trip. I'm thinking maybe I'll convert my second Foxy Lady to a Star Trip before it's all said and done. I guess it depends on the condition of the Star Trip I'm picking up tonight (fingers crossed it has a working MPU....i doubt it. I may well need things out of that cabinet to make that one work...

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I gotta get Roy out of here, this is starting to get ridiculous

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Does anyone know if I can simply swap my extra Star Trip playfield in place of the second Foxy Lady playfield? Obviously the connections may be slightly different. I'm not a fan of FL at all and I'd rather build it out as a Star Trip, which I actually kinda like.

Also, is there any reason why I SHOULDN'T molex the cab switch section that Gameplan for some reason opted to not (circled in red in these pictures)? It would definitely make it less annoying to swap playfields in and out. Not sure why Gameplan put quick disconnects everywhere else and NOT there, but...

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Decided to do some work on the two star trips in my shop yesterday and today. Finished (and then listed) the first one yesterday. Started the second one today. All the dirty topside parts are in the ultrasonic right now and I'll be polishing the plastics tonight.

After this one I need to dig into the working foxy lady in my shop to redo the LEDs, adjust several switches, and HOPEFULLY swap the sound board with the chime unit from my other foxy lady cabinet.

Phew!

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Here ya go.

Plastics cleaned off. Going to get them scanned so I can have a new set made later on when I want to build my third Star Trip.

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Man that's a pretty game.

I'll be listing one of those soon. Not getting warm fuzzies that itll sell for much tbh. We'll see. I still need to shop it.

How many of yours have physical chime boxes? I've got one here with chimes and one with a digital sound board.

That was going to be my plan... lol

I'll know more in the coming weeks. Hopefully it warms up and I'll feel more like being out in my shop. Finishing shop jobs on the two star trips and the foxy lady here will be priority #1. Then I'll mess around with trying to swap the chime box around.

It's not a great game but idk, I kinda like my Roy.

Great deal for $500. That's a fun game!

I just listed some smaller bundles for cocktails, if anyone is looking. I could also be talked in to selling either of the Star Trips I'm working on (not done yet) if interest is there, and I have two extra Gameplan glasses.

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They're pretty hard to find tbh. The plastic is brittle and deteriorating more every day. I was working on some 3D modeling/printing but my local resource bailed on me halfway through. I could put you in contact with the guy who made some parts for my Af-Tor if you wanted to see if he would do it. He does great work.

Overall it's not a great design to begin with. Very fragile.

The guy who made my Af-Tor drop target mounts is named Joe Zenkus. I hit him up on Facebook. I'm sure he could model the Allied Leisure parts and make something. Personally I feel like an overall redesign, rather than pure duplication, would be better. Jady Swinks also offered to do it, but before I sent him anything I found a viable drop for my Roy and gave up on it.

Joe did an awesome job for me. Highly recommended. Jady has done fantastic work with classic Stern targets (I bought a bunch of those, too).

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My working idea was that if you redesigned the actual target piece and then replaced the plunger (I believe this one was pulled off an old Williams flipper assembly that I rebuilt but just about any one could be made to work), you wouldn't have to worry about the crappy plastic 'ears' on the original targets breaking, ever again. It was just an idea though, and it never came to fruition.

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Looking good! I'd be interested in a few of these.

Some different-colored targets would be cool in my Roy, also, but I can see about printing some later.