Thank you for the input. That explains why sometimes the N works and most of the time it doesn't, and it also explains the "I" as well.
I was afraid to bend/squeeze the white tabs on the board. I guess I'll just do it very, very carefully.

The night moves may seem simple at first but it really grows on you.

I'm fine with simple.
My truth I rather have a game like sorcerer than Sterns Star Wars. Yes, I know some people love that game, and I really enjoy playing it too. But, a game like Sorcerer or Space Shuttle. There is a beauty in its simple code.

And of course I do like deep games too. But, not deep for deeps sake. Has to make sense.

But, back to the cocktail thread. I didn't mean it as an insult. Simple is good, and I think the goal of these games was just to get as much of a normal pin feel as possible.
And so I really was pleasantly surprised with the gameplay. I've played worse pins than night moves. So it looks like my purchase will be money well spent.

Gotta finish fixing it up though.

The LED idea might be cool... Might try that later on.

I did manage to change out all the burnt bulbs(think they're all changed out...).
I wound up taking the light board out by unscrewing it, and I did disconnect the wire connector as well. I figured trying to get the white things off, might be a tad risky on a 31 year old machine. That plastic could be a bit brittle and I tested it, and it didn't seem to want to come off. So I went the screw route. Took longer. But, I got it done. And I wasn't messing around. I just replaced all the bulbs in both the N and I, just to err on the side of caution.

I also worked the right flipper mech a few times. To see if I could notice something wonky about it. I couldn't. It seems to respond or function much the same way as the left one does.
Then I closed the playfield and put the balls back in, and fired the game up.
And the game is working pretty dang good right now.

Not 100%. The right flipper seems to now be behaving better. Not 100%, but a good bit better than what it was(and htat was acceptable, so its more than decent now).
Just think 2 switches need an adjustment. As they're not working. I can't remember if they were working before and now stopped. But, they're the O and one of the L rollover switches. So that should be an easy adjustment. I hope.
More than a bit exciting to be honest. This is the most work I've ever put into a pinball.

I do need to sort out the battery.
I think TNT amusements might be the way to go to figure out that issue. I'll just watch a video on Night Moves. They should have one, and they're generally pretty informative vids.

Thanks. I actually watched a TNT video about Night Moves yesterday and he pointed out the battery.
But, what really is strange.
The owner who I bought it from is not a pinballer(I detailed it in my first posting in this thread). And so the machine was left alone since he owned it, and his mother was the one who bought it. Because, they wanted a "Franchise". And of course it was never placed.

So, I'm a bit shocked that the battery still works. As I know its never been replaced(or if its been replaced not for the time the man has owned it). I'm going to be taking it out probably later today.
The rubbers were all dry rotted and I don't think the playfield was ever waxed.

All in all the playfield is in good condition. Not great. The display has risen up a few from the playfield and a few inserts are no longer flush as well. But, really while those issues slightly impact the game. Not enough to really hurt the enjoyment.

Now the next thing I will look at will be the battery replacement options. I want dependable and easy to install.

Thanks again for all the help and input guys.
This machine might have been one of my best pinball purchases for the buck.

I'll look into adjusting the display. Its not horrible and I only had one time so far where a ball fell into the groove and then moonwalked around the display. My dad say it and was like how did that happen, and I had to explain the lip in the display or groove that the ball traversed itself on.

So... The story about how I got my night moves.
I always search offerup a few times a week. Just to see what is available.

I spotted this machine quickly after it was posted. It was really, really close to my house of course. Which was amazing. The listed price was 900 dollars.
I really didn't want to spend 900 on a machine. As this was Christmas and my funds were a bit low at the time. But, this is a machine I wanted, 900 is a very fair and reasonable price. So I contacted the seller and made an offer for 700 dollars.

My reasoning was he'd say no and then I would keep my money and wouldn't have to deal with the hassle of moving a pin. But, he then countered, "Why don't we meet in the middle at 800". And I had to agree to that.
Just too good of a deal to pass up.

I've bought 2 machines from around my area. But, the Sinbad I bought was a pain to get load up and get into my house(buyer wouldn't let me spend the time to figure out how to disconnected the ground wire. I should have just cut it and then replaced it later...

Back to Night Moves... Yeah... Really too good of an offer to pass up. Super close location, very, very reasonable price. I think reasonable for the seller and the buyer.
I had to put about 80-100 dollars of work into it. I'm counting the shipping and handling of the parts that I had to pay for. As 8 new bulbs, new rubber set, had to get the pal nut removal tool, and had to get titan rubbers post caps for the machine and of course new pinballs.

And I'm happy to say machine is working great. I was going to adjust the rollovers, but those started working again, and stayed working for the 1 that I played it last night.
So I think I said it before. But, this is probably one of my best bang for your buck purchases ever, and it'll be hard pressed to get another one like it. And I learned a few things while working on this.

Great experience... Now, one day I do hope to get a Caribbean Cruise to pair with this one.

If you haven’t cut the battery off yet then check the audits in the test menu and see how many plays it has on it. That should be original.

Okay. Looks like I will pop out the battery later tonight. I booted it up, and my scores where gone. So it looks like the battery is old and failing. Not a shocker. Not a big deal, and I doubt this machine ever got any real action. The playfield would be super worn as they never cleaned or waxed it.

You should have seen the bands on this game. Completely dried out and crumbling. I was going to just replace the broken sling. But, then I realized this game would be stiff as a rock, and the bands would crumble from the hits and lead to debris on the playfield which in turn would lead to wear.

Glad I replaced them and decided to not be lazy.

Yeah, when you notice some of the rubber rot, best to replace all of them. My Night Moves is still surprisingly good, but I have a Titan kit ready and waiting.
I was actually considering selling my Night Moves, but now they seem to have gotten harder and harder to find so I'm glad I didn't part with it

If you wait and keep an eye out, practically any pin will surface. Just have to make sure you're in position to act. Now, whether or not it's local or will need to be shipped is another story.

I want at least 1 more cocktail pin. I want Caribbean Cruise, the sister pin to Night Moves. If its only just as good as Night Moves then I'll be really happy with it. Not in hurry though as I don't have a space for it right now.

But, I am really surprised with how good Night Moves is. The rules while not super amazing, are really still really dang good and fit both the machine and the layout. And that is what rules should do. It shoots really well also. I've played a lot of regular pinball machines that do not even come close to being as good as Night Moves.
So far super pleased with my purchase. I know I'm still in my honeymoon phase. But, I don't see my opinion of it dramatically changing.

I sold my Night Moves and kept my Caribbean Cruise.I find CC to be far superior.

If only it didn’t award multiball 95% of the time when you hit the mystery scoop. That’s what kills that game entirely.

For me beggars can't be choosers. I like the art on CC better. But, there was a Night Moves for sale for a great price only a dozen miles or so away from my home... Doesn't get much better than that.

If history repeats itself, or if lightening should strike twice. I will of course pick one up.
I guess the good about a cocktail cab. They're easier to ship than a normal pin. Just got to make sure the top is well protected.

CC is a fun novelty, but Night Moves is a true player. Out and out it's a straight shooters pin with a lot of punishment. The rules are really what sets it apart. The 8 second lit spinner for inlanes is one I only recently learned about and adds a whole new strategy to the game!! I think CC has a very interesting layout and appears to have a lot to do, but when you actually play it, there really isn't as much because the flipper layout virtually cuts the playfield into sections. Only thing is I wish Night Moves had drop targets. I would grab a CC given the chance though. The pair are meant to be together.

Finally got my FF back up and running again. It sat in our vacation rental unplugged for about a year.

I replaced a bad coil with a new one. And it was bad too! Since I couldn’t figure out what was wrong and it was remote I never got to it.

Finally brought it home and debugged it. Learned how to de-solder in the process.

We used it in league night last week but got mixed reviews. Most liked it as a change up, but don’t want to play it every week.

Well it’s heading back to the Mountains over valentines weekend so I’ll be able to get my pin fix when we are away from home.

2C76C1B2-427B-40A2-B91A-8B775D32965A (resized).jpeg

Guys, I need you help. Went to sort out my battery issue with my Night Moves.

There is a big hulking thing where the battery should go. its called a circuit guard and I think it has the letters 1188 on it.
Its a rectangular cube that is black with a white label. It sticks out about 2 and a half inches off the board.
Just wondering what that guy is.
And if I should remove it or leave it be, as that is where the battery is located.
I know nothing about this thing and anything anyone could tell me would be appreciated.

Haha, that IS the battery. Circuit Sentry it’s just some sort of enclosed battery pack. It’s nothing more then a rechargeable Ni-Cad. Desolder that off your board.

I figured it was a battery of some kind... Just know nothing about it or how to remove it.
So... The only way to remove it is to desolder it off the board...

Fun... Not the easiest place to get to...

So my question now is... Can I disconnect all the wires to the board and then easily take the board off, so that I can solder it?
And when I do so... I guess I should put a Nvram on it instead correct?

It is best to pull out that whole board to work on it. If you have access to good soldering and Desoldering equipment It is easy to remove that battery. I removed it on mine and also removed the 5101 ram chip, installed a socket, and plugged in an nvram module. I think I have some pictures

That’s my one big complaint. Working on anything inside the cocktail pins just sucks. When I did the grounding mod my back was killing me.

Doesn’t the Sys80B require extra steps to use NVRAM?

Removing the MPU board wasn’t so bad but Repinning the connectors that had some corrosion and replacing the main cap in the base was awful on my back too.

Okay. So I know none of us can know the future.
But, I just want to know how urgent or dire should I make it a plan to remove that battery pack from my night moves.
I generally keep my games unplugged when not in use.

And the scores did reset after I let it sit for about a little over a week. But, the strange thing is. It kept my current replay level. Which has been going up automatically after every couple of games or so.

And when I posted new high scores. The old GC score showed back up. So just curious what should my urgency for getting it off and replacing it should be.
Because as it stands now. While it is a project I want to do. Its also not something I currently have the best understanding of and I'd like to kick the can down the road a little bit... Not too long, but I'd prefer to wait and get more knowledge and get more comfortable. And also get all the parts and tools I'll need. (I can/should be able to desolder it as I have all those tools).

Again. I know no one can know 100% what will happen. Just knowing what you all know and your experience. What would your suggestions be?

Thanks.

And have NVRAM installed so you never have to worry about batteries again.

I don't think you realize how slow I am when I work on anything. Not very good at this kind of stuff... I don't want to damage or break anything. and not certain how to really go about doing either the removal. or the nvram install. Trying to find videos of similar stuff online.

If it isn't leaking, then it isn't an urgent issue that should keep you up at night. You should address it, but if working on boards isn't your thing, don't sweat it.

If you just want to remove it, use some wire snips and take it off. Sounds like high scores aren't a big deal for you, so if it starts up without issue when it is drained, it should work fine if it is just removed.

If you need the high scores and setting saved, just get a remote battery holder w/diode and 3AAs and attach it to the leads you snipped off. Total cost less than $10

A system 80 board (if this is for a night moves) requires a socket to be installed for nvram. So if you aren't board savvy, and need to send out the boards to install nvram, then it is overkill.

I thought i did ask for help on how to remove it. That's why I posted here.

That block battery you can’t easily just cut it off like other batteries. It needs to be unsoldered. It’s ok if you aren’t comfortable with it. Maybe you can find someone local that can help. Or if your machine is going to be down for a bit you could send that board out. Since it is only removing a battery and possibly putting in a socket and NVRAM the turn around should be quick.

I'll just do the work myself. Been watching a lot of videos lately on soldering. And I did fix my iron madien flipper issue. A joint broke on the upper right flipper and I had to solder it back into place.

Better job than the person who soldered my hardbody coils.

Anyway... The trick isn't just desoldering the old battery off. Sure... I probably can manage that. But, I'm not certain how easy the board will be to remove.

Is it just disconnect all the wires and then remove the screws that hold it mounted in place? I don't know... Never removed something like this before. And I will say... Not going to enjoy the confined space...

So then... Once its off... What type of socket do I put on for the Nvram and then lastly what type of nvram do I buy... Are there videos or detailed instructions on this process...

Words are easy... Actions are not. Its easy to say what needs to be done. But, the reality of doing them is far more difficult. I don't mind trying to do this. As if its successful then I can do it on my other machines too. I don't mind learning. But, I can't run before I walk...
And I sure as heck can't sail across the air before I've learned to fly... I'm just a lost children of the sea... yeah.

I can get you pictures of mine. It wasn’t hard to do. Getting the board out isn’t too bad either. If you don’t have battery damage you’re lucky. I had to neutralize the small amount of battery damage on mine, replace several resistors, and some diodes. The worst part was replacing the damaged pins in the connectors. Those are what game me a sore back.

You can get the 5101 nvram module here:

https://nvram.weebly.com/

If you’re not experienced with soldering I would not attempt to socket a chip. That’s pretty advanced stuff. Just remove the battery pack, and attach the Remote battery holder and diode. That’s the easiest novice way. Pay someone to socket the board the right way with some experience. You can also remove the battery and do nothing else. It simply will not save anything. Settings are controlled via dipswitch, it just doesn’t save audits or scores. I am happy with this method since Pindigo keeps track of scores for me.

That sounds reasonable.Do you have links to something that would work. And also instructions on the install. I think your idea makes the most sense.
I'm not too hardcore about high scores. But, its nice as bragging rights and social features to have on a machine.

Anyone need a Game Plan MPU:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-echo-lake-game-plan-mpu-2

I also have one for sale. I sold the game a few weeks ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/echo-lake-pinball-game-plan-mpu-board-

I found a Viza War at a salvage yard but it is missing the MPU
any help appreciated

missing (resized).jpg

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=6337&picno=67972

Might have better luck converting it to a ElectroMechanical version of VIZA;
as opposed to finding the missing MPU.

I have a 1979 Star Trip by Game Plan... Not bad for 41 years old

IMG_20200329_223315272 (resized).jpg

Yes, we made several cig and booze cocktails from the basic games...I remember camel (some were just stickers on existing playfields.

My newest addition!

6C431CF3-D51B-4C7C-8F19-772CCEA71709 (resized).jpeg

I totally approve. I picked up a non working Night Moves and after going through the power board, replacing the main capacitor in the base, repining a few connectors, and fixing the MPU (Slight battery damage) it is a solid machine.

It is a surprisingly fun machine and the music grows on you.

So, does anyone have a full rundown of the rules on Night Moves?

I saw in an earlier post about the 8 second timer for the spinner. I never knew this, and it got me thinking about other rules I don't know on the game...

Possibily the first cocktail table pin?!?
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=6701&picno=76350&zoom=1

pasted_image (resized).png

I got to work on one Mirco Space fantasy pinball... It was total hell...
no schematics and every wire was white! argh!
First game I ever saw that the flippers had no EOS switches.

The board is all logic ic's some 555 times for the coin switches and LED eyes...
The switches are direct ground to ic to tip122 to coils... The flippers had
double trip ics ( pull in/then hold ) 555 timer ic to stun other players flippers.
The bad, was that the switches where all fast respond and did not allow the ball to rest...
Eventually, the coils would fry.
I would use a pinball developer board, and be able to fix the problems with the
bad design OEM board.