Can you post a picture of your game pcb. If you are using LED's you will need the diode mod revision of the pcb (later version) and not the (earlier revisions) ones with filament warming resistors.
There is no effect that I am aware of and the code is the same for all games.

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Oddly my game went back to the same malfunction after being off a couple days. I reflowed the solder in more places, it worked again. I left it off for a day and back to not working. Not sure what's going on here but it works for the day and then stops working.

Things to check for not starting issues:
Clean and stable 5vdc from power supply;
Good Pins and sockets on power connections to main board on J4 (bottom red one);
Reset (LED 1) goes on with a noticeable delay before going off when applying power;
Game over lamp should be flashing, displays reset to 0 shortly after reset light goes off;

Generally, the edge connector contacts should not stop a good main board from starting up. It may be the J4 connector which you unplug/plug to work on the board. From what I have found out, there is normally only one wire feeding the +5V and it's ground, there is a suggested mod to add a second wire/pin. If you are applying solder to the edge connector contacts, they need to be wiped not built-up solder and cleaned (no flux) - plenty of info around about it. you could also have distorted/worn/corroded edge connector pins, examine them with no board inserted for contacts bent/crushed/corroded.

That is the rev H which has the protection diodes and no lamp preheat resistors. LED lamps should work ok if all else is working properly. Each lamp (led) has a common 6vdc from the power supply and a separate switched ground for each lamp back to the main board.

Things to check for lamp issues:
6vdc supply is ok. As mentioned earlier - I have one on loan which had a faulty bridge rectifier on the 6vdc that effected the way lamps lit up;
Wiring to lamps, particularly the common 6vdc wire going to the lamp sockets;
Oxide buildup in lamp bases at lamp contact area or on base contact that is a friction fit, either can become resistive;
Lamps light correctly as per lamp tests, for each test some lamps should be on and some should be off (none dim IIRC).

I came here looking for cocktails but alas only found video games. Nonetheless here’s one of my favorite cocktails found at a small bar in Salt Lake City called the gravy boat. Not much to look at but tasty. Now I’ll go back to pinball

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Making forward progress. Stripped topside of playfield to clean and clearcoat. Ordered Titans and some new flipper bats (one has a chunk missing). MPU and driver board with Chris Hibler for a refresh. Game should look and play really nice when complete.

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Yep all checks out except LED1. I'm pretty sure that's burned out. I can't get it to light even with a battery. I have more red LEDs somewhere but haven't found them yet.
Game over flashes, credit goes in and game freezes. I can see it go through reset but it just crashes somewhere in that process. Sometimes it makes it further than others. That makes me think it's either an IC going bad or a bad IC connection.
I've tested the continuity of the contacts and even re-bent the pins on the edge connector to get better contact. I fixed a few loose molex pins but that didn't help.
As a last ditch I did flow solder over the edge contacts and cleaned it off but that doesn't fix it either.

Only solution seems to be reflowing solder on the ICs. Haven't figured out if it's just one, multiple or what but I noticed the traces are extremely thin. Maybe I should jumper the leads. How often do the leads just give out? They all pass continuity tests but I don't know if that means they carry enough on the line to work. Once I get one of your repro boards I'll know for sure if it's a connector or a part on the board. Are the sockets on these known to go bad? Cheap thing to replace if that's a common fail point.

Hey looky here..... ebay.com link: itm It's a Star Battle but apparently not a Coffee-Mat.

The steel cabinet is now particle board and the bland lower apron got some art.

I got an okay to grab images and send to ipdb but there is a complication - seller was unable to locate serial tag with manufacturer info.

The cabinet is a disgusting design and huge but the playfield looks cool.

After a frustrating amount of work I have my Eros One working every time I turn it on. I bought a Hakko solder vac and removed all the solder from all of the chips, soldered them all new, reseated some chips. I put in a new 40V cap and replaced a bridge rectifier. Now it plays on every boot. Still seeing the weird LED chirp but it looks like brand new. I replaced the rollovers and added spacers to make them flush with the field. Found some silicone flipper rubber that actually fit these from Marco but I haven't seen true rubber that fits anywhere. The game plays really well now. It's a fun play for how simple it is.

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Night Moves is complete and playing very well. Meant to post before but ran out of time due to Pintastic New England and then some fishing in Maine. Now getting back to catching up. A couple of minor issues working through with the game but it looks phenomenal and plays 95%. I've adjusted the kickout area numerous times and I still end up occasionally with a kickout "bobble" and the ball will not make it out to the lane, and once the next ball drops in to the kickout, it will not kick out to the shooter because the opto doesn't activate. Most of the time both saucers work a 100%. Intermittently it seems that they won't kick out when they need to and it will not kick out a new ball.

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I still miss mine I sold 20 years ago. You did a nice job with the leds if that's what you used.

I've seen a few pics of these before, any idea what parts they used and value?

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It's a coffee mat( or Cisco) machine similar to Star Battle. I bought my Star Battle for $600. $500-1000 for Cosmic War, IMO. I'd buy that one if you are selling it.

Thanks! I tested out a few different LED colors to find good matches to the original color. My plastics were a little yellowed so a whiter 1SMD LED helped clear up the appearance without over brightening it. I put ambers behind the orange rollovers and that really helped light their actual color better. If you do white the color is wrong and they have inconsistent lighting so depending on how you're sitting they can look brighter or dimmer. Incandescent makes them way too dim. Go with ambers. The picture doesn't show the blues but I put ice blue comet LEDs on the stack lamps and they are perfect. They make the blues look more moon like.

How much is a Family Fun! valued at? Nice condition, missing MPU.

It was for sale at the show we were at this weekend for $550, not working. It sold

I have searched for this issue but haven't come across anything posted. Night Moves plays 95% perfectly. I have repinned all the MPU edge connectors and the MPU was assessed and rebuilt by Chris Hibler. When playing a game, if you have a ball locked in a saucer and your second ball is on the playfield, when you drain the ball in play, the drained ball will not kick out to the shooter lane because the second ball (locked in saucer) is not breaking the trough opto beam. So the game stalls, ball in saucer does not kick out, and ball in the kickout lane does not kick to saucer. Anyone experienced this?

The other issue I intermittently have is that the ball in the kickout lane may not make it out to the shooter lane when kicked out. It "bobbles" and drops back into the kickout lane. In the meantime, the ball in the trough drops into the kickout lane and now two balls are in the lane. No ball is triggering the opto, so no ball will kick out to the shooter lane. So far the most consistent I can get the kickout action is shimming the kicker, but it is still not 100%.

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Just picked up a Foxy Lady. Anyone know which transistor is for the right flipper?
Thx!

I know my machine can have really big trouble with the ball getting stuck or not registering leafs properly when the playfield is not quite right. I don't have this machine but is the kick not working maybe because of leveling? The pitch on these playfields are so minor even the smallest change to leveling can make things not work right. Maybe the kick is just too weak?

Do you guys have a suggestion for the wood veneer repair? I’ve got a rotation viii that I’d like to make super nice. I presume there’s some sort of preferred peel and stick sheets I can cut to size? Thanks in advance.

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I just releveled the pin and I was definitely low on the left side. So far it is making it out to the shooter lane consistently. When it was playing at Pintastic, I hadn't leveled it because the ball movement never showed signs of an uneven playfield. Hopefully the leveling will have cured that issue. Thank you.

From my post above. I have searched for this issue but haven't come across anything posted. Night Moves plays 95% perfectly. I have repinned all the MPU edge connectors and the MPU was assessed and rebuilt by Chris Hibler. When playing a game, if you have a ball locked in a saucer and your second ball is on the playfield, when you drain the ball in play, the drained ball will not kick out to the shooter lane because the second ball (locked in saucer) is not breaking the trough opto beam. So the game stalls, ball in saucer does not kick out, and ball in the kickout lane does not kick to saucer. Anyone experienced this?

Update: The game is still experiencing this issue. When looking at it further, during this scenario the drained ball enters the trough, at which point the kickout kicks, but the drained ball hasn't dropped into the kickout lane yet. When the ball does enter the kickout lane, the kickout has aleady fired with no ball to kickout. Almost as if there is a delay between opto trigger and ball release into kickout lane. Game then stalls in limbo. Video here to give a good representation.

Yeah I noticed mine goes into terrible play if it gets a little off center or you have it fully level top down. I raise the back end just a bit so drinks stay put but it plays a little faster and won't get trapped. The cocktail machines seem way more sensitive to left/right level than a normal machine.

How is the continuity on the cables? Maybe there's a short or something not connecting fully? Can you reliably trip it manually? If not then it might be dirty or the IR is bad, weak, or a logic issue in the receiver. Make sure both the IR and the receiver are working as expected by interrupting it manually. I don't have one of these so I can't say for sure. Never worked with an opto, wish I had more input but that's all I can think of from how I understand they work.

Thank you for the inputs. I opened up the kickout lane switch contacts just a bit (thinking possibly vibration may play a part in the issue). It worked properly during a manual test with the balls. I've also ordered a fresh game rom just in case. I'll monitor and see where we are at. Thank you.

I have two Eros 1 cocktail upper cabinets I'm giving away. Structurally sound. Pickup only, Holly, Mi.

Thanks for sharing! Such a cool game. GLWTS

I should probably list my clean working Valley SPECTRA IV. It is the only other cocktail that I am aware of with a rotating playfield.

Oh that's an interesting one. Also a pricey one. That looks like a good barcade game.

It does take up quite a bit of space. Unfortunately these became plant stands over the years as they were cannibalized.

Just listed my Night Moves cocktail. Small issues have been corrected (proper leveling and a switch adjustment) and game plays awesome. If your looking for a beautiful Night Moves, this is the one.

Machine - For Sale

Night Moves w/ clearcoated playfield (PRICE DROP)) Archived

Fully restored (full original status) - “Selling my Night Moves cocktail pinball machine. Professionally clearcoated playfield with numerous layers of automotive clearcoat. Sanded and polished to a glass finish. Machine ...”

2023-10-05

Auburn, NH

epeabs

1,800 (OBO)

Archived after: 163 days

Viewed: 309 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

I think the side of the relay that controls the right flipper on my Foxy Lady is burnt.
Not sure if that’s how these relays work, but I need to find a new one.

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Wow, yeah that's not good. I'd first see if you can trace back the line and make sure there isn't something that caused it before you replace it. You don't want to put in an expensive relay just to have it happen again.

If you can get a schematic or if it has a part number or info on it you'll need to find a matching relay by voltage and amperage with ideally the same socket. You might be able to find a used old drop-in part. The manual might also have the part on it somewhere. Best thing is to find a direct replacement but if that doesn't exist you'll have to do some research to figure out a best option to swap it for some other kind of relay which can get complicated. Some places have direct replacements, you'll need to search for the part number. If someone has a Foxy Lady they might know more specifics.

It's possible to repair relays but I don't remember if this type is sealed or anything so you might need equipment to do it properly.

The relay on one connection is fried and the two wires came unsoldered.

I’m gonna try to repair the relay.
This explains why the left flipper works and the right does not.

I already replaced the flipper coil.

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Oh yeah that's done for but you might still be able to use it to test for the root problem. I wonder if something got stuck or if it has EOS, did that fail or something. I'd be worried about it happening again. If you could check voltages you might be able to find if something is running hot too much. It could just be the relay itself but I don't know this machine so I'm not sure what's connected to the relay. That contact looks really suspicious. I wonder did that get fused in place maybe? I'd definitely trace it and make sure a wire didn't get frayed or stuck on something causing it to overheat.

Yes, some of the red wires insulation is missing and shorted on the top of the relay. I’m going to repair the relay and stick it back in the machine and see what happens.

WE HAVE FLIPPER!
Shrink tube, solder, and some prayers to the pinball gods.

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Well... It looks like my Caribbean Cruise decided to get in the Halloween spirit. I just had 2 drop targets snap in half, and now they look like spooky fangs or something! Haha

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Surprisingly they still work fine, but a drop target replacement will be happening in the near future. The targets have also lost a lot of color. They are almost grey now instead of blue. I didn't notice it until I ordered the new ones.

Hi All!

I'm heading out soon to work on my first cocktail game and I'm super excited! It's a Night Moves machine that hasn't been touched in 25 years. I'm anticipating a leaking battery, but what I'm having trouble pinpointing is where to get a proper MPU replacement if needed. The RD ones don't have Night Moves listed as a compatible game, and the Swemmer Electronics page doesn't list any games at all.

I'd love to get this working for them, just trying to get a leg up and really just learn more about this game overall. I've always loved cocktails and am super stoked to crack one open.

Thank you!

If the boards are there. Send them to Chris Hibler to refurbish. Another option....Mayfair Amusements was starting to stock refurbed boards. He did have Gottlieb 80B's.

The Rottendog replacement MPU only supports Gottlieb System 80 and 80A games. No 80B games are supported. The Swemmer replacement MPU is a nice board but Fred Swemmer passed away and no one knows the state of those boards or if any more will be available in the future.

So for the 80B your best option is to have your original rebuilt or if it is too far gone find a rebuildable 80B MPU and get that rebuilt. I wouldn't worry about it until you open it up.

I got relatively lucky on my night moves as the battery damage wasn't bad and the board clean up well. I had to repin the power connector though. I put NVRAM on mine but have switched to a large 4F memory capacitor on the other System 80B boards I've rebuilt.

I'd also recommend having the 500ohm potentiometer replaced on the 5V power supply with a sealed mutiturn precision version. I've been putting those on all my System 80 and 80B games.

Night Moves is an excellent machine and packs a lot in a smaller area. Everyone that plays it loves it.

Backup option, use a LISY80

Yes! I should have mentioned that. Those are great boards and I've used one in Monte Carlo and Genesis while I rebuilt the original boards for those. Just never tried it in Night Moves but it should work well.

For those restoring game plan cocktails, here’s a great paint match for the shooter rod housing.

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I think Foxy Lady needed better pop bumper caps.

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Does anyone have a bottom left slingshot plastic for Eros One they would be willing to sell? If not, a high quality scan or image would be appreciated. #ErosOne

Anyone know what voltage this Foxy Lady fan blower takes? I want to replace it with a quieter computer fan. My HF voltmeter of course needs a battery lol.
Thx!

Edit:Looks like 110V-120V AC

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FYI - if anyone uses Night Moves in a tournament, one of the members of the Delaware Pinball Collective wrote a custom tournament ROM to remove the random awards earned by going down the inlanes/outlanes.