Like to see this Roy Clark go to a good home! Powers up with GI lights and ball kicker locks on. Don’t have time to work on it. Super clean! 350.00. Hoping to bring it to the pinfest if sold. Game is in NJ 07853

AEA6C425-D59B-4D5D-9FEE-3E8E2DA59197 (resized).jpegC7455E4B-60E3-4689-AA4B-A14D07E8F8E5 (resized).jpegC9164CC1-F185-4AA3-889D-8DEE5FE29AD1 (resized).jpegC95827F1-70AD-43C3-935D-40DE7B2FF354 (resized).jpegD88DC02C-62A6-4992-8FF0-F11FA319A2A3 (resized).jpeg

I would buy it if you were near Sydney Australia. I could put one of my new Repro MkI PCB's in it that I am about to release, discussion about it in another ALI thread.

Hi. Question for everyone. What’s the best way to ship a cocktail pin and which shipper wil should use? Thank you

Joined the club this weekend with a Take Five, and then promptly "broke" it trying to replace the fuse holder. I enjoyed my 2 days with it though! Will hopefully be back soon.

Pinsider Bonk posted this on the projects thread:

Midway Rotation VIII project, $800 OBO
South Rockwood, MI
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/634606268120111/?mibextid=6ojiHh

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/post-project-pins-for-sale-here-cl-ebay-pinside-and-others/page/492#post-7583819

Having a kid & too many irons in the fire, have unfortunately set me back. I've contemplated starting fresh & selling all of my projects(monte carlo, meteor, Star Battle). I'm not giving up hope on that star battle guard just yet.

I need to go into self imposed exile and get started again.

Seems like I've been waiting for them to be back in stock for 2-3 years now, but maybe I missed an instance somewhere. Anyway, John's Jukes/Flippers.com has those pesky Allied Leisure flipper actuator cams back in stock that tend to break and are difficult to replace with anything else. Cheaper than they used to be too at $15/ea. Think they were in the $30s last time I saw them.

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/Actuator-Cam---3D

Link seems to have changed: https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/actuator-cam-3d-264-5-25

I'm a bit confused why this star trip keeps booting up like this. It seems to play fine but the displays don't change. Any ideas?

20230526_155822 (resized).jpg20230526_155846 (resized).jpg

I ended up swapping the cable and going through the setup menu again, all seems fine now. The old cable was doing weird stuff with the p4 display even after going through the menu. No idea.

I had to adjust the right flipper WAY down to make the spinner an achievable shot. No idea why the geometry is so hard on that one. It's almost ready to go..

Screenshot_20230527_163220_Gallery (resized).jpg

Have you checked my Allied Leisure Support page for dealing with the fuse holders? The originals are pretty bad and all four need replacing.

https://flippers.com/ALI-Pinball_service.html

John :-#)#

I have replacement drop targets and should have the plunger as well - send me a note it you can't find it on flippers:

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/drop-target-paddle-3d-264-5-18

John :-#)#

Managed to get this working...ish... by swapping the playfield over into a cab that previously housed a Circa 1933 that wouldn't credit up for some reason.

Sadly my right flipper, middle pop, and outhole kicker are all not working. I was pretty sure this board was fully functional (at least with Circa 1933) but notsomuch with Hearts Spades. Blehhhh.

20230713_205440 (resized).jpg

20230713_210111 (resized).jpg

Right flipper is very different to the outhole and middle pop. If the left flipper works then the right flipper problem is a flipper relay contact, wiring or coil issue (not the main pcb).

For the middle pop and outhole do they work in solenoid test?

All pop bumpers (L, C, R), sling shots (L, R) and the outhole are related to PIA IC8 and their corresponding driver ic's and transistors for all games.

If the outhole works in a Circa 1933 but not in the Hearts and Spades then it is a wiring or playfield problem not the pcb.

Some games swap the sling shot and bumper functions to change the game play. I don't have the playfield wiring diagram for a circa 1933 so I cannot tell you if it is the same as a Hearts and Spades or if they are swapped around.

Hope that is of some help.

I'll check that and see what I come up with, thanks a bunch for the lengthy post and suggestions.

The left flipper does work fine. The coil has proper voltage (they all do) and grounds are good. I've not ohmed any coils, checked diodes, or anything like that.

I was PRETTY sure all functions were good in the circa 1933 but that was a while ago and anything could have happened since. Maybe not really worth mentioning tbh.

Right flipper button contacts and wiring are something to check. These contacts are at coil voltage so they get carbon buildup from arcing, loose contacts on the leaf (which go high resistance), and bad contact area (over time, especially when people file these contacts).

If you have a Circa 1933 manual with the playfield wiring diagram it would be great if you could post a pic of that.

Do the switch and solenoid test to start troubleshooting the others (checking outhole and pop bumpers switches and coils).

My test button was extremely finicky after the first push (seems it went into display test perfectly with the first press every time though). Anyway, in solenoid test neither the outhole nor the middle pop fire. I cleaned both flipper contacts but no change.

I'll try swapping this board into my Roy later to confirm that the board is in fact fine. Then I can go back to debugging the playfield.

I've got a decent cache of parts so if solenoids are dead or something like that, I should be good. I'm pretty sure my left sling will need a new coil because it's getting mechanically stuck. But the Roy I stripped down should easily provide that.

No middle or right pop using this mpu in my Roy cab. Outhole worked fine as did all four drops, both slings, and the left pop.

I'm a bit afraid to try my good mpu in the Circa/Hearts Spades configuration, just because of how delicate I know these mpus can be. That said, at least I know now that this mpu is not in fact 100% working as I thought it was.

Test and credit button press can seem a little strange to get to the next test. You need to press an hold the credit button until the display shows the next test number then let go. It only checks for a button press at the end of each cycle, not during the cycle.
Start test using test button, advance to display test using credit button, advance to switch open and closed tests using test button (only with no closed switches), then all subsequent tests (lamps, coil drivers and burn-in mode) are using test button held until end of each cycle for that test. Power cycle at any point to end testing.

You can quickly swap IC 8 with one of the other PIA's (not RRIOT's IC3,5,6) to see if the fault changes and is related to the PIA or the driver circuitry.

If you need to troubleshoot the coil driver section further here is my schematic for that section from my Repro board, the part numbers should match your original board.
IC8 Coil Drivers (resized).jpg

Make sure to Check J5 pcb socket and harness connector pins are mating properly they can become open if not firmly plugged in or sockets pins have opened up over time from multiple unplugging/plugging in.

As I already mentioned what is call a pop or sling shot gets swapped for some games (to change up the game play). I do not have the wiring info for Circa 1933 so unable to tell you if they are swapped around.

Make sure to Check J5 pcb socket and harness connector pins are mating properly they can become open if not firmly plugged in or sockets pins have opened up over time from multiple unplugging/plugging in.

As I already mentioned what is call a pop or sling shot gets swapped for some games (to change up the game play). I do not have the wiring info for Circa 1933 so unable to tell you if they are swapped around.

Joined the club. Got this about a month ago fully working but the leafs were all bad contact. This is how I got it, think it was in a mud fight.
20230701_152328 (resized).jpg

After cleaning it up and moving it to a permanent home in my game room it won't reset/start play. It credits up and the 1 lights up in the blue line up but the drop targets don't reset and the ball never kicks into play. The game just freezes there usually with the ball 3 lit, sometimes ball 1 but never a player. This only started happening recently. Flippers work and 1 credit is on the machine with game over no longer blinking. Test modes shows everything works.

Read through the manual and I think it's something to do with section 8.1 the re-set circuit. I checked the 5V yesterday and it does supply 5V though it does drop just a bit sometimes, not sure if that's normal. Need to check the capacitors some time later today. When I plug it in one of the LEDs on the main board is on and off in 1 second but none of the other LEDs light so I'm not sure if that's a sign of anything. Seems like C-19 might be my first item to check.

Looks like the cap is bad unless the manual is off or the problem is somewhere else. It says C-19 should measure 5V on both sides. Mine has 4.9V on the left (which looks to be within tolerance) and like 40mV on the right which is the output into the board it looks like. So that's not good. I also noticed that the manual lists the fuses should be at 34VDC but mine are getting about 32V on all of them. I don't have the schematics so I'm not sure if this is fine since these are coil and lamps and they all work as expected.

Has anyone replaced the big 40V 8000MFD cap? Not sure if I need to swap it out but I don't see a direct 8000 replacement and normally I know going a little higher on these is fine but I don't know how touchy these early solid states are. Digikey has a few in the 8200-9000 range but they are wildly different prices and sizes.

Picking up a Night Moves hopefully at the end of the week. The game was playing fine with a Swemmer board. Top was opened to tweak a switch, something got bumped and display went dark. Board was sent out to Swemmer boards (in the meantime, Mr. Swemmer died). Original System 80B board was installed due to Swemmer board dilemma. Everything playing good with original board, but displays are still dark. What is the best troubleshooting direction once I pick up the game? This will be my first cocktail pin.

What? Mr Swemmer passed away? When did that happen? I had talked to him through Facebook in the past and have repaired his boards. That is awful news if true.

https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries/name/frederik-swemmer-obituary?id=52413067

And you’ve tried reseating the connectors? That connector on the display can get really finicky. Mine temporarily displays a constant stream of garbage when it gets bumped and nudged. I just reseat it and it works just fine. Think it needs an extra ground installed. Maybe that will help you too, it can’t hurt!

Haven't picked up the game yet. Will grab it this weekend. But I'm aware that this is the condition the game is in.

The displays on my night moves was very dark. Turns out the plexi in front was just filthy!!

Night Moves is officially in the house. The game is clean but has some gremlins. The game has the original MPU installed and does not play. You can turn the game on, GI lights and inserts work, as well as the music. You can credit a game, outhole does not kick out ball into shooter lane. No switches activate, no flippers, no slingshots, pops, etc. If you roll a ball around, the two saucers will work and kick the ball out. The display is still dark. Please see earlier post why the Swemmer board is not in the game. Prior to my purchase, with the Swemmer board installed, game and displays worked 100%. The only troubleshooting I have done so far is to pull every fuse in the game and check with my meter, and disconnect and reconnect the display connectors. This is the first Gottlieb based game I have had to work on so not the normal for me, Williams, Bally, etc. Anyone have a good direction to proceed for troubleshooting? Thank you.

20230728_215154 (resized).jpg20230728_224845 (resized).jpg20230728_213820 (resized).jpg

https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

5th item from the bottom of the page.

Chris.

Figured I would try to troubleshoot first. But there is a very good chance I will end up with a new MPU. This set up looks very nice.
Thank you.

Took me a bit thinking about it, but pull the apron and take a look at the ball trough opto. If that opto does detect the ball, the game will appear almost dead like you described. The optos usually have cold solder joints or break off.
I have a spare if need be, but check to see if yours is functioning.

Since the music and inserts are working that means the MPU is functioning (at least to some capacity) it is almost certainly an issue with the ball trough. Gottliebs are funky like that

Late last night I came across an older thread that was mentioning the same. I will dig in, in that direction.

Had the same problem with my Night Moves. It was just adjusting the opto’s in the ball trough. Once that was done game worked 100%. Good luck on fixing yours.

From the picture one of the EPROM chips is uncovered. That is never good. I would at least pull and verify those and if ok at least get that window covered. I’d probably burn a fresh set. Someone installed NVRAM so I would double check the prior work. Since that small reset board is disconnected may want to check to see if the update was done on the back of the board to add a resistor. That update is documented on pinwiki.com in the Gottlieb system 80 section.

After I rebuilt the MPU for mine it didn’t start a game. It also had opto issues in the trough and had to fix the opto board. Since then it has been running great!

If I pull the EPROM, how do I verify it? I can double check the NVRAM install. I will look into the resistor mod for the back of the board. Today, I did reflow the trough optos and the pins on the trough opto board. I also repinned AJ1 and AJ2 connectors. But it didn't fix anything. I did wiggle the A1J2 on the MPU and then lost my insert lights.

Wow. I just pulled the CPU and flipped it over. Quite a few repairs done that don't look overly clean, but on top of that, there's a lot of the flat pad traces that are just about worn off. No wonder there might be some communication issues.

20230730_190200 (resized).jpg

20230730_190836 (resized).jpg

20230730_190847 (resized).jpg

I cleaned up all the pads with the fiberglass pencil. They are not completely worn off but they were extremely oxidized.

20230730_192337 (resized).jpg

Plugged the MPU back in and nothing different. My controlled inserts are working again. I don't have a 3K resistor to install since the reset board is disconnected. I don't know how to verify the EPROMS.

In order to verify the EPROM chips you need access to an EPROM programmer. That will let you read the ROM chips and compare the image with a known good one. The ROM;s for this should be posted on IPDB.org

Maybe someone in your area has one and can check the chips for you.

Thats kinda what I was thinking. I think I know someone that can do that.

Any other things to check?

Ok I need some help with my Eros One, my first cocktail and I'm not sure how to easily determine if it's a problem with the MPU or the power. The problem is definitely something to do with the re-set circuit. It was fully working then after moving it, it freezes when a credit is added. LED1 has never lit up. I've looked through a lot of posts and haven't found this case discussed. Fuse 2 was blown when I first got it, replaced that and it was up and running so not sure what could have happened between first test and now. I hear these boards break if you look at them.

On power up there is no startup reset test performed like the manual says it should, it just goes right to game over flashing and everything looks normal but it's not. On credit add the game locks with 0 scores, 1 credit, and ball 3 lit. If I put in 1 credit, wait one second then a second can't be added. Score displays don't go out they just freeze at 0s. All test modes worked for lamps, score, and solenoids. All fuses are good and the fuse lamps lit. 5V comes off the power and into C-19. I replaced C-19 cap but that wasn't it.

Any idea if there's a way to narrow down if it's a chip issue? I don't have a chip tester. Should I go through the schematic and test any specific area that is known to fail for reset?

First, measure your 5V at the large capacitor at the bottom of the MPU. Is it a clean 5V or low?

I get 5V from the PSU and 4.92V at the cap. If I increase it enough to reach 5V it changes nothing. I have a spare switching supply I threw in to see if anything would change but no. Is it normal to get 32V at the fuses? The fuse chart on the cab lists 40VDC and the manual says 34V. Some of the fuses indicate lower power than the manual suggests so I'm not sure if there's a bad piece somewhere or if this is just normal for Eros One because the manual seems generalized for ALI machines.

An update for today. I pulled the MPU back out and flowed a thin layer of solder on all the contacts for A1J2, A1J4, A1J5 and A1J6. Put the MPU back in the game, and what do you know....the displays work and I can play a complete game after adding credits with a quarter. Everything seems to work well except that if you lock a ball in the "left" saucer, it registers the ball going in, but never kicks it out and sometimes will continue adding points until the ball is pulled from it. Upon start of a new game it also doesn't kick out any balls that are in the saucers. The board has NVRAM installed. Is there a freeplay option, or do you have to manually credit with a quarter? I do think the board should be sent out to be "refreshed" as some of the work on the back is not pretty.

You should go into test mode and go through the switch, lamp and solenoid tests to see what needs further investigation.

If the game over lamp starts flashing and the displays clear to 0, that is a good sign the board is functioning. It does not rule out a firmware fault in one of the three 6530's or any of the interface circuitry.

Can you post a pic of the board and the nvram mod you mentioned?

Interestingly I turned my machine off and back on after it locked up and it did the reset on the solenoids but then locked up again. On power up LED2 & 3 light and then go out but LED1 never turns on. Game over blinks and zeros all light but it just freezes on adding a credit every time. I'm leaning towards it's a chip issue. I could go through the schematics and measure stuff to see if maybe the chips just aren't getting the right voltage but I feel like just waiting for AzureOz's MPU repro. My restore is basically done, I just need to get it functional.

You know what... I thought "why the hell not" when I read epeabs post about reflowing the solder because why not try everything?

It worked.

My machine fully works. It was just, bad connections. Nothing really made sense but I guess if you've checked off every other possibility, just reflow the chips and maybe you'll get lucky.

Now new question. I switched to non-ghosting LEDs and some of them flash when they're off but only some of them. All the lights dim a lot when a ball drains and it tallies scores. Is that normal or is my big main capacitor going out?

Thats great news, congratulations on getting it running.
For the lamps, not exactly sure for LED's. The one I have on loan for testing had a bad bridge rectifier. It had one diode faulty which made the lamps a bit dimmer than they should be at times. Replaced it and the lamps lit up much better. Might be worth checking those as well.

Do you know which lamps are flashing when they are off? When using LED's which are more responsive than lamps, some will flash that don't make sense, game over being one of them. The lamp and solenoid tests are a good way to make sure they are all working when they should.

My experimenting with laying a light layer of solder on the edge connectors worked and allowed me to play some games. To make sure I am good moving forward, I sent the MPU and Driver board to Chris Hibler to go though and make sure everything is where it should be. In the meantime I will tumble/ultrasonic some parts, clean up the playfield to possibly clearcoat, get Titans on order, and redo some LED's since there is some blue in the GI.

20230801_181855 (resized).jpg

20230802_212052 (resized).jpg

Yeah all the lamps work as expected, no flicker or issues when lit. Game over is fine. It's just when in gameplay at almost a regular interval of a few seconds the special (red lamp) and Juno's wish section (1-4 green lights) will just blip on for a moment but whichever lamp is already lit stays as normal like it's getting a small amount of power. When it tallies up the score at the end of a round at ball drain they all kind of flash weird but that might just be an effect that only works with incandescent. I might throw a few standard lamps back in and see what is normal. When I tried standard LEDs they would flicker a lot but the non-ghosting seemed to fix it. It's weird that only certain sections seem to do this.