Thanks, it's a bit chaotic at the moment but I'll get it a bit better sorted out soon. The shop is 50x30 but that area is maybe 30x15.

Taxi needs to be delivered (I was going to shop it ahead of time, but I'm thinking maybe now I'll just deliver it to my buddy as is since it plays fine, and then I can do a full shop later for him), F14 needs to be sold (I already shopped it), and I need to get my ass in gear with my two Mata Hari hardtops (one is down and in the cabinet, but still needs some gremlins handled, the other is on my rotisserie to the left, needs stripped/sanded/applied), and wrap up Gorgar (waiting on a new set of displays but then I just need to rebuild the flippers, adjust pops, and fix drops).

I'll probably work on the Allied stuff first because once I put a fourth working drop in my Roy Clark, it can also leave. I've accumulated far too many projects in here for my own comfort, it's time to get some of them out of here.

Remember you may never find them again

Drops? Yeah, I'm still not thrilled about that situation. My buddy still has SEVERAL ALI games which he took with him, and another friend now has a Roy and a Super Picker (uses the same drops). We're going to need some long-term solutions and scrounging up whatever we can find isn't the way to do it. My wife wants to try resin casting the parts to see what we can come up with. I have low hopes of it working worth a damn, but I'm going to let her give it a whirl.

Ultimately I have what I feel is a better design figured out and I'm all ready to have Swinks make a bunch of them, but it's going to probably cost around $15-20 per target/assembly. Ultimately, I feel like that'll fully resolve the issues and prevent them from breaking, but it's still a tough pill to swallow at that kind of price and I know most people would be out.

//Edit just realized you were only referring to me saying I could dump Roy

My Roy is a family heirloom, my wife's childhood pin. But it's not staying here, it's going to her dad's to live there. So when I say it's "gone" I simply mean it's out of my shop. Not gone gone.

Someone here did me a 3D printing for the targets. Pretty solid piece Let me look for his user name

In the post. #679. You can see the targets in my machine and the user Good luck.

My issue is that my Roy target was completely smashed, both parts. A friend of mine got pretty close with 3D prints for both parts but never got it fully dialed in, then got busy with other things and told me he couldn't keep working on it. Bummer.

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This looks interesting if anyone is in Colorado. To far away for me to get..

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I was going to grab it but it's not booting. Too rich for my blood with a dead board. Looks super cool in terms of art.

I played one of these... let’s just say that it looks really nice!

Yeah I saw gameplay on it and it doesn't look fun lol. I was almost tempted to buy it and see if I could rewrite the code with an arduino or something but... you all saw my shop... lol

I'd still pay $500 for it even not working if it was close

One day, I’ll have the moneys to travel the countryside and buy cool cocktail games.

My beat up but beauty-playing Star Trip gets at least 20-30 plays a day before school every morning in my 7th grade classroom. I give them a dollar if they break 100K. I don't hafta pay very often. LOL. Thanks to ThatOneDude for the killer deal. It's had thousands of plays since I brought it in last year. Training the next generation right!

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I have 4 cocktails currently, I got these two at expo last weekend. Last used in 1982. Put them in my warehouse for now, will get to them at some point . Havent even tried to turn them on, but they look great.

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Those both look fun.

Star shooter scares the hell out of me with all those drops.

Yeah they do! Actually, ALI's drop mechs are pretty robust. I have a Boogie, and they're pretty groovy. I have a couple spares, too.

Would be nice for a good replacement source. I have a Thunderbolt which has 4 of them. It is good for now but concerned if one breaks.

Vegas!! Wow, that’s a rare bird!

Leaving the club with the sale of my Eros One. I’ll miss the chimes in this game.

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How much did it sell for?

Asked $1,000. Sold for $900.

Imo that's a solid price for you. Looked like a nice game.

Spliced in a different connector (poached from a spare Roy playfield) on the board on my buddy's Take Five and it appears to boot fine... but won't credit. Bleh. I'll try swapping the board to something else to see if the board has issues.

The Spectra IV won't respond to any button pushes on or inside the coin door. I'm not sure if that means it needs "cleared out" or what. I've not gone through and manually examined every switch yet, though, so I guess that's next.

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This is where the Spectra IV is weird. It may have some odd random data in the battery backed RAM. As a result you can not clear it or reset it with the control panel. That panel to adjust settings only works to alter them assuming valid data is already there.

If the RAM is corrupt, etc then you need to clear it out. In order to do that you need to power off, lift the playfield, prop it open, unplug a cable from the driver board, the plug a special small circuit board in the socket you pulled off. Then power up the game then wait a minute and turn it off. remove the small card, plug the cable back in, then lower the playfield. From there you should be able to use the side panel to set the options.

.

Really nice stuff. The next gen will keep carrying on.

Dumb question but could desoldering the battery not dump any straggler data?

That is an exellent question. While removing the battery will clear the contents of RAM (or unplugging the chips) there is no guarantee what is going to be in that RAM when first powered up. Many systems would typically have random garbage in RAM when first powered until it is initialized by the system.

The Spectra IV doesn't handle this aspect well and expects that some sort of valid data will be in RAM as a starting point.

The way that is cleared is by using a special small plug in circuit board. I made one for mine. I was going to layout a board and make more since others probably need one too.

That is one the reasons these can be frustrating to get running.

Another oddity is that in order to power up on the bench it needs to detect AC power. If not then the RAM section can't be accessed. I ran across this when bench testing mine. I ended up making a custom MPU adapter so I could use a 6502 POD with a Fluke 9010a unit to test RAM and check that the ROM's could be read. That is when I found out about the blocking of RAM without detecting AC.

Many of these have a small daughter board for that AC detection section. THe board can run without it if you remove a jumper and install a diode like the schematic shows. But I think that little circuit board probably is needed to help prevent that RAM from corruption. It is off on mine but I plan on re-installing it.

It is an interesting machine and runs well after getting it going but when there is corrosion to deal with and factor in the details above this is not a game that is easy for most people to get running if it wasn't when they acquired it.

I don't know Allied Leisure games very well, like whether the MPU from the stand up machines will work with cocktail machines, but I wanted to mention that I have an ad in marketplace for AL parts, and a general question about pricing for circuit boards from Dyn O' Mite.

PM if you have any questions. Thanks

400-600 if it's in good working condition. Imo.

PSA to anyone with Allied Leisure/Fascination games (at least the early ones): there's apparently a small rubber pad inside the pops the cushion the travel of the plunger, and it also acts as a spacer. Without it, the top of the plastic pop ring is striking the bottom rim of the body before the plunger reaches the bracket, which I'm sure is gonna crack one or the other eventually. One of mine fell out and another was loose, so I just took them all out and re-glued them

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My first post on here so please go easy!

I’m lucky enough to have a Rotation VIII, I bought it about 5 years ago, I’d been looking for one for about 2 years, this was the first one I saw come up for sale. I imported it from Germany to myself in the UK.

It wouldn’t boot, with that sorted there was a locked on coil and some matrix issues, they were all fairly easy to fix.

I really like the machine, it’s just so different to my other machines (it’s my only cocktail)

They are a PITA to work on though, on looking at a flipper mechanical issue one day I dropped one of the supporting legs which shorted out on a pin on the MPU board, that really killed it, I took it to Jim Askey, not that far away from me, Jim performed his magic and sorted it out.

A great game to sit down, chill and enjoy a beer.

All the best,

Chris.

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Worked out in the shop today. Did some researching on the Foxy Lady that works but won't detect the ball in the outhole -- it's got some strange wiring coming off that switch and an odd board. Compared to the other Foxy Lady that's in my shop (missing the MPU and has the topside torn down), I'll remove that board and see where I'm at. It works otherwise.

Star Trip wasn't booting (look at that MPU, YIKES!!!) but somehow...I got it to boot, and play..100%. I absolutely did not expect that. So now I guess I'll tear that one down, shop it, and make it actually play well.

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Picked up a Rotation VIII over the weekend! pasted_image (resized).png

Boots but goes dark when I try to start a game. Thinking there's something wrong with the motor board or motor and it's not turning when it should...

Does anyone know if you can just hook the solenoid voltage up to the motor directly to make sure the motor+gearbox+etc actually work?

Congratulations on your find. You should grab the schematics here: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2019

Connecting the motor drive directly without proper control signals could be an expensive and unrepairable mistake.

I'd strongly suggest not approaching repair of a rare title with unobtainium parts in a haphazard fashion. If you don't have a high level of familiarity with troubleshooting and repair of pinball machines, the one you have is maybe not an ideal one to learn with. Study the schematics. Get to understand the theory of operation. Don't be afraid to ask questions if there's something you don't understand... but please please please don't just start poking around and doing shotgun repairs or you'll be in a worse place!

Step 1 of troubleshooting is ruling stuff out. I want to rule out the motor as the issue. So I've posted, trying to confirm if it's possible to test it directly, since I can't confirm it from the schematics. Nothing that I'm doing is "shotgun", I don't do anything if I don't know it's safe. I'd rather fry the board than the motor though, I can always just make a new board if it comes to that (and it could, someone cooked a ton of traces on this one and it's gonna be a pain cleaning it up)

Fixed the outhole situation (although I've not officially removed the board just yet) on foxy lady and verified it's working properly. Still needs a good shop job before it can be listed, but things are looking up on that one. Unlike Star Trip with its UGLY mpu, it appears a remote pack was installed before nicad detonation on this Foxy Lady. It needs a lot of adjustments but should be a pretty quick shop-out.

Star Trip definitely has some intermittent grumpy behavior (shocker, with that MPU..) but it's down to just needing shopped out too.

Tbh I kinda like Star Trip. I'm thinking maybe I'll convert my second Foxy Lady to a Star Trip before it's all said and done. I guess it depends on the condition of the Star Trip I'm picking up tonight (fingers crossed it has a working MPU....i doubt it. I may well need things out of that cabinet to make that one work...

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Please don't take this the wrong way but the schematics will confirm whether or not it's possible, if you take the time to work through and understand them.

I gotta get Roy out of here, this is starting to get ridiculous

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Do you know the details of bidirectional motor driver circuit design? I don't. And I'm not gonna read up on them from zero, attempt to apply that knowledge to this specific schematic, and then take a half educated guess and risk the motor. Trust me dude, I've looked at the schematics. And when there are six transistors and four op amps all feeding into each other, I know that I'm in over my head "just taking my time" to work through them. So I go to the place most likely to have other owners, who might know from experience (good or bad), whether you can drive the motor manually to test it.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but, if you don't know the answer to the question, you can just not respond! It's fine! I never said anywhere that I was going to just hook stuff together thoughtlessly and blow rare stuff up, I specifically am avoiding exactly the situation you're worried about. I've repaired hundreds of machines, some even rarer than this one, and I've never damaged anything irreparably. I don't need condescending pinball repair 101 warnings from people when I ask specific technical questions. (and please don't say you're not being condescending, I gave you the benefit of the doubt the first time but you're just doubling down on it)

Does anyone know if I can simply swap my extra Star Trip playfield in place of the second Foxy Lady playfield? Obviously the connections may be slightly different. I'm not a fan of FL at all and I'd rather build it out as a Star Trip, which I actually kinda like.

Also, is there any reason why I SHOULDN'T molex the cab switch section that Gameplan for some reason opted to not (circled in red in these pictures)? It would definitely make it less annoying to swap playfields in and out. Not sure why Gameplan put quick disconnects everywhere else and NOT there, but...

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zacaj is pretty darn skilled. The man just looks at EMs and they start working out of fear and respect. He’s exhibited an abundance of caution on games rarer than this, to the nth degree.

Zach, take a look at this post/thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/midway-rotation-viii-pinball#post-6343324
Perhaps these guys may have an idea?

Decided to do some work on the two star trips in my shop yesterday and today. Finished (and then listed) the first one yesterday. Started the second one today. All the dirty topside parts are in the ultrasonic right now and I'll be polishing the plastics tonight.

After this one I need to dig into the working foxy lady in my shop to redo the LEDs, adjust several switches, and HOPEFULLY swap the sound board with the chime unit from my other foxy lady cabinet.

Phew!

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ksuwildcatfan what does that chime unit look like? Can you post a picture of it.
Thanks

Here ya go.

Plastics cleaned off. Going to get them scanned so I can have a new set made later on when I want to build my third Star Trip.

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Yes, you are seeing double. How does the old saying go? Oh yeah. Misery loves company.

Seller said one lights up and the other doesn't do anything. We shall see.

One thing is for sure - Coffee-Mat has the prettiest coin box ever made. The thing is freakin stainless! The darn phone camera doesn't do it justice.

Anyway, there's my entry.

Does anyone have a legible schematic? The one in the Century Consolidated manual isn't that great.

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Man that's a pretty game.

I noticed my Eros one isn't properly scoring triple bonus. When you light x2, it scores x2, but when you light x3, it still scores x2. A long shot but can anyone else test this on an Eros or an Allied Leisure cocktail with similar board and mechanics?

All allied leisure games use the same board/rom code to my knowledge. I'd swear my star shooter does 3x correctly but I've never paid that much attention lol

Well, I took a gamble and ordered the repro Coffee-Mat Star Battle manual from Marco. Anonymous gave it five stars and I think I will too. Nice big CLEAR schematics that will definitely help. Yay!

Dont see this one very often. It was mine.

https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/146000116_game-plan-foxy-lady-cocktail-pinball-machine