Well, i spoke with Brent Butler and unfortunately that mpu is beyond repair. Does anyone happen to have a mpu board for a foxy lady?!
Well, i spoke with Brent Butler and unfortunately that mpu is beyond repair. Does anyone happen to have a mpu board for a foxy lady?!
That board is absolutely repairable. I've fixed far worse.
What he's saying is the labour/profit isn't worth it for him to repair it. Don't junk it: Neutralize the alkaline damage, remove the damaged components, repair the traces and solder new components with bodge wires where appropriate.
This is totally repairable with a minimum of equipment investment and a little practice with a soldering iron... and a few afternoons. Do not throw it out.
Quoted from semicolin:That board is absolutely repairable. I've fixed far worse.
What he's saying is the labour/profit isn't worth it for him to repair it. Don't junk it: Neutralize the alkaline damage, remove the damaged components, repair the traces and solder new components with bodge wires where appropriate.
This is totally repairable with a minimum of equipment investment and a little practice with a soldering iron... and a few afternoons. Do not throw it out.
Yes. Thanks! Ive had a few people reach out and say the same thing. I understand what you're saying about it being worth his while considering how many boards he repairs. Also, I see an old thread where someone had 40 or so made but i assume they are all sold out now. It would be awesome if someone else were willing to take on such a task! I'm sure there are other community members that would be interested in a replacement board!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-2-replacements-ready-for-orders
Finally found a Caribbean Cruise to go with my Night Moves! It was about a 4 hour drive each way to pick it up, but totally worth it! I'm thrilled to finally have the pair together.
IMG_20220318_161502734 (resized).jpg
The previous owner had replaced most of the rubber rings but missed a couple here and there. I replaced those and cleaned up the broken rubber pieces The playfield has very little wear, however the cabinent is a bit rough around the bottom. It almost looks like someone put bondo on it! I still need to clean the glass too.
IMG_20220319_160859740 (resized).jpg
Someone had also put some LEDs in for most of the GI lighting. I removed those as they weren't shutting completely off when the GI turns off. The LEDs also didn't work correctly in the pop-bumpers (probably because of resistance issues).
The display is currently out. One of the diodes exploded. I'll have to order a couple new ones in-case the replacement blows as well.
IMG_20220318_214322528 (resized).jpg
The game plays really nicely, even without the display. It's fast with a lot of really nice shots.
Question for people who own Caribbean Cruise. I've seen people reference flipping the upper gate around so it feeds it directly to the upper flipper instead of to the mystery hole. I've seen gameplay video of that, and it seems like a much better idea. I tried to flip the gate around, but it doesn't fit the other way. If you have done that modification, can you post a picture or explain how to do it? Maybe I'm missing something, but it doesn't seem as simple as just flip the gate 180.
Edit: Just saw drreddog's post from 3 years ago with a close up picture of the reversed gate. Got it!
Quoted from ScottThePhotog:Finally found a Caribbean Cruise to go with my Night Moves! It was about a 4 hour drive each way to pick it up, but totally worth it! I'm thrilled to finally have the pair together.
[quoted image]
The previous owner had replaced most of the rubber rings but missed a couple here and there. I replaced those and cleaned up the broken rubber pieces The playfield has very little wear, however the cabinent is a bit rough around the bottom. It almost looks like someone put bondo on it! I still need to clean the glass too.
[quoted image]
Someone had also put some LEDs in for most of the GI lighting. I removed those as they weren't shutting completely off when the GI turns off. The LEDs also didn't work correctly in the pop-bumpers (probably because of resistance issues).
The display is currently out. One of the diodes exploded. I'll have to order a couple new ones in-case the replacement blows as well.
[quoted image]
The game plays really nicely, even without the display. It's fast with a lot of really nice shots.
Question for people who own Caribbean Cruise. I've seen people reference flipping the upper gate around so it feeds it directly to the upper flipper instead of to the mystery hole. I've seen gameplay video of that, and it seems like a much better idea. I tried to flip the gate around, but it doesn't fit the other way. If you have done that modification, can you post a picture or explain how to do it? Maybe I'm missing something, but it doesn't seem as simple as just flip the gate 180.
Edit: Just saw drreddog's post from 3 years ago with a close up picture of the reversed gate. Got it!
Makes the game so much more enjoyable in my opinion.
Quoted from ScottThePhotog:Finally found a Caribbean Cruise to go with my Night Moves! It was about a 4 hour drive each way to pick it up, but totally worth it! I'm thrilled to finally have the pair together.
[quoted image]
The previous owner had replaced most of the rubber rings but missed a couple here and there. I replaced those and cleaned up the broken rubber pieces The playfield has very little wear, however the cabinent is a bit rough around the bottom. It almost looks like someone put bondo on it! I still need to clean the glass too.
[quoted image]
Someone had also put some LEDs in for most of the GI lighting. I removed those as they weren't shutting completely off when the GI turns off. The LEDs also didn't work correctly in the pop-bumpers (probably because of resistance issues).
The display is currently out. One of the diodes exploded. I'll have to order a couple new ones in-case the replacement blows as well.
[quoted image]
The game plays really nicely, even without the display. It's fast with a lot of really nice shots.
Question for people who own Caribbean Cruise. I've seen people reference flipping the upper gate around so it feeds it directly to the upper flipper instead of to the mystery hole. I've seen gameplay video of that, and it seems like a much better idea. I tried to flip the gate around, but it doesn't fit the other way. If you have done that modification, can you post a picture or explain how to do it? Maybe I'm missing something, but it doesn't seem as simple as just flip the gate 180.
Edit: Just saw drreddog's post from 3 years ago with a close up picture of the reversed gate. Got it!
Did you buy the one from Chris in Texas? I had been trying to buy it since November, what a total PITA!
Quoted from Dee-Bow:I'm sure there are other community members that would be interested in a replacement board!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-2-replacements-ready-for-orders
If you can't find a replacement or the courage to try a repair before, I dunno, mid to late summer, ping me. I'll at least try to get it booting for you, but my schedule is tight and I can't promise success.
Try to neutralize the alkaline in the meantime with some vinegar followed by a thorough distilled water flush and cool blow dry. That will prevent things from getting worse.
Man, I love easy fixes and having a local electronics store. I replaced the blown diode on the display board and the corresponding fuse and now the display is back up and working.
now-witness-the-power-of-this-fully-operational-battlestation (resized).jpg
I then had a really great game of 33 million and finally could actually see my score!
IMG_20220322_220625957 (resized).jpg
Now I've got to do something about Night Moves display. It works but is dim. I never realized just how dim though until I saw a properly working one next to it.
I'm considering purchasing a cocktail table but I have never seen one in person and I am wondering what moving one is like. It doesn't look like you can just tip it on its end and dolly it like a standard machine. And I don't know how I would get it in the back of my van. A regular pin can be kinda tipped up and in, but a cocktail looks like it would have to be lifted by two people straight up possibly? Also, how which do these weigh? I rarely have help for stuff like this so I try to plan in advance pretty well. Thanks!
Quoted from Datsun_Z:I'm considering purchasing a cocktail table but I have never seen one in person and I am wondering what moving one is like. It doesn't look like you can just tip it on its end and dolly it like a standard machine. And I don't know how I would get it in the back of my van. A regular pin can be kinda tipped up and in, but a cocktail looks like it would have to be lifted by two people straight up possibly? Also, how which do these weigh? I rarely have help for stuff like this so I try to plan in advance pretty well. Thanks
It's a lot easier with two people. I would bring a helper and brute force it into your vehicle. Skip the dolly.
Moving a cocktail pin is definitely best done by two people. One person on each side. I find the furniture dollies to be really helpful in moving them. You just lift it up, slide it under, and then one person can wheel it around easily. You'll definitely need two people to get it in and out of a vehicle. You have to lift it straight up, and then put it in. It weighs less than a normal pin, but it still has some weight.
Quoted from Friengineer:It's a lot easier with two people. I would bring a helper and brute force it into your vehicle. Skip the dolly.
Quoted from ScottThePhotog:Moving a cocktail pin is definitely best done by two people. One person on each side. I find the furniture dollies to be really helpful in moving them. You just lift it up, slide it under, and then one person can wheel it around easily. You'll definitely need two people to get it in and out of a vehicle. You have to lift it straight up, and then put it in. It weighs less than a normal pin, but it still has some weight.
Thanks for information everyone. That's what I was afraid of. I definitely don't have anyone who can make a day trip with me to pick one up.
Quoted from Datsun_Z:Thanks for information everyone. That's what I was afraid of. I definitely don't have anyone who can make a day trip with me to pick one up.
BAH! Cincinnati's a big city, Brother!
There are likely dozens of pinball people there in town who are good peeps and would give you a hand.
(ONCE, at least, just buy them lunch/beer)
I'm looking for a replacement Red Drop Target for my Circa 1933.
Has anyone have a spare one they can sell me. Thanks Fernando
Just had the best ever game on Caribbean Cruise yesterday. 81 million! I've got it set on 3 balls per game with the hard settings for the spinner and the bonus multiplier. Multiple extra-balls, jackpots, and a good round of skeet shooting. At one point I had a 10X bonus multiplier for a total bonus of 24 million!
7e68defd67d55b271b9d7a1151e96f5283c7cf9a (resized).jpg
This game is just stupidly fun. The left spinner shot is so good to hit and you really rack up tons of points when the spinner is maxed out at 50K per spin.
Hey Everyone,
I just got an Eros One cocktail table. It’s in great shape and I would like to get it working. Unfortunately, the MPU is missing. Is there anyone out there with boards they can sell me? Or maybe a remake to buy, or a remake I can build myself?
Any help is appreciated
Thanks!
506FF95F-8034-4D1C-A00C-81889FCDC4FA (resized).jpegQuoted from CraigJam:Hey Everyone,
I just got an Eros One cocktail table. It’s in great shape and I would like to get it working. Unfortunately, the MPU is missing. Is there anyone out there with boards they can sell me? Or maybe a remake to buy, or a remake I can build myself?
Any help is appreciated
Thanks!
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/build-your-own-gameplan-multi-mpu-board
Quoted from zacaj:Eros One isn't a gameplan is it?
Ohh shit! Sorry sir! I recently sold my eros one and had a brainfart. I mistaken it for my newest coctail project..a foxy lady.. back to finding you a mpu board
So my star shooter (allied leisure) worked when I got it, but would randomly reset. Reseting the cpus fixed it for a while. So I replaced the sockets, and the big cap while I was at it. Now the game boots fine, no resets, but most of the solenoids lock on instantly. Anyone seen something like that before?
Quoted from zacaj:So my star shooter (allied leisure) worked when I got it, but would randomly reset. Reseting the cpus fixed it for a while. So I replaced the sockets, and the big cap while I was at it. Now the game boots fine, no resets, but most of the solenoids lock on instantly. Anyone seen something like that before?
You might have blown the output port to the 6530 RRIOT.
I am thinking about buying a Take Five locally but I have a question. Are the outlanes impossible to drain? Looking at photos from the sale ad as well as videos online and it looks like there is a metal guide that blocks the outlanes.
Same goes for Roy Clarke and Circa 1933 which all share the same playfield. It would just seem so odd to have outlanes with switches if they would never be hit. Am I seeing this right?
Quoted from Smack:I am thinking about buying a Take Five locally but I have a question. Are the outlanes impossible to drain? Looking at photos from the sale ad as well as videos online and it looks like there is a metal guide that blocks the outlanes.
Same goes for Roy Clarke and Circa 1933 which all share the same playfield. It would just seem so odd to have outlanes with switches if they would never be hit. Am I seeing this right?
Looks like the only way to drain on the outlane would be a bad cradle or flipper tip that rolls up the slings and out. Weird design.
At 1:23 you see a bad flip sends it right over and down the outlane.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Looks like the only way to drain on the outlane would be a bad cradle or flipper tip that rolls up the slings and out. Weird design.
At 1:23 you see a bad flip sends it right over and down the outlane.
Thank you! I missed this when initially watching this video. It doesn't look like there is enough room for a ball to fit in there but sure enough it can.
Quoted from zacaj:Anyone know how to diagnose a display issue like this?
[quoted image]
What game is it? If a Gameplan have you reset all the values in the battery backed RAM?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:What game is it? If a Gameplan have you reset all the values in the battery backed RAM?
Sorry, star shooter. allied leisure. It does this even in display test mode
Quoted from zacaj:Sorry, star shooter. allied leisure. It does this even in display test mode
reseat the connectors... I have had the led displays go bad...
Quoted from zacaj:Sorry, star shooter. allied leisure. It does this even in display test mode
Those are probably similar to the displays I had in the EROS 1. Some were out on the game. Ended up rebuilding them all and used low power parts. Ran cooler with a lot less power. It was documented on this old thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/allied-leisure-led-display-rebuild-eros-one#post-3610878
On facebook I saw there is a person in Frederick, MD that is going to sell over 20 different cocktail pins. All are projects and are either Allied Leisure or Game Plan.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/670146547615344/
Chuck a Luck is the one that was listed for $800.
279868540_5061143803999998_9014707917211915909_n (resized).png277911317_5178244132236236_877668709615573604_n (resized).jpg278061162_4670096936430157_7863581111236024806_n (resized).jpg278676998_4750594041712055_1960272304785352122_n (resized).jpg278895204_4841667319273285_9027824364167706624_n (resized).jpg
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:Game Plan
And don't forget the ability to build GP boards:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/build-your-own-gameplan-multi-mpu-board
Quoted from Atari_Daze:And don't forget the ability to build GP boards:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/build-your-own-gameplan-multi-mpu-board
Yes. And if anyone needs one I have some FULL kits available. If you can solder and follow the instructions you can build yourself a working GamePlan MPU board that works in any of the games....
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Yes. And if anyone needs one I have some FULL kits available. If you can solder and follow the instructions you can build yourself a working GamePlan MPU board that works in any of the games....
You're price point is VERY fair and affordable! I want/need one but am in no hurry as my Foxy Lady is a sitting project pin .. no time to get to it, so we'll see if someone wants it before i start buying parts.
If any of you have an Allied Lesuire cocktail game with bad displays I may be able to help. Many years ago I rebuilt displays for an Eros one with all low power parts and new 7 segment displays.
I made sure to keep all the old parts that were good. I have some matching 7-segment displays and some regular LEDs that should be an exact match if any are bad on your game. Same look and same intensity. Otherwise you’ll probably do full rebuilds like I did.
Quoted from Mitoska:Picked up my 3rd cocktail, a nice night moves. Shopping with pink - blue titans and led's
[quoted image]
That's a really good machine. Everyone that plays it loves it. I don't think I could ever part with the one I have.
Got my star shooter booted well for the first time after replacing the power connector, but a little while later one of the drop target pairs locked on and burned up the coil. The schematics say that the transistor is a TIP3055, however when I look up that part number, it's not the right thing, it's a much larger transistor with a different package that won't fit. Does anyone know where to source replacements? Will any standard stuff like a TIP102 work?
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:On facebook I saw there is a person in Frederick, MD that is going to sell over 20 different cocktail pins. All are projects and are either Allied Leisure or Game Plan.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/670146547615344/
Chuck a Luck is the one that was listed for $800.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is me. Sold a few but most are still available. if you are interested in anything let me know. NOT parting out at this point.
Quoted from omnibuscortex:Hi all, does anyone have a rubber ring chart for Eros One?
Page 13 of the manual. Scroll down, and the link is just before the pics.
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Eros&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#3738
Quoted from Agent_Hero:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/night-moves-starts-game-but-ball-isn-t-kicked-to-shooting-lane
Any suggestions for what I can try next to fix this?
Is your opto board getting power? Are the opto's ok? My machine had issues with the opto board when I got it. I remember repairing that on my game.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Is your opto board getting power? Are the opto's ok? My machine had issues with the opto board when I got it. I remember repairing that on my game.
Pin 1 on AJ1 at the opto interface board is 6 volts, but I’m using a Great Lakes Modular power supply and I don’t see a way to adjust the output.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Pin 1 on AJ1 at the opto interface board is 6 volts, but I’m using a Great Lakes Modular power supply and I don’t see a way to adjust the output.
I'm running the original power board on mine. I rebuild the original supply and use a multiturn precision trim pot. The original trim pot and cracked/cold solder joints are about the only things I've seen go wrong with original power boards.
Are you saying that you're reading 6V where it should be 5V? If so that isn't right.
Am I reading this correctly as for pin 1 being where I should see/test for 5 volts?
Night Moves opto (resized).png
The original power board I have has had the trim pot removed, but nothing has replaced it to adjust it. I'm using the Great Lakes Modular board in its place, though that board also has no adjustment pot. I put the old power supply board in and still have similar voltage reading, but again, the adjustment pot was removed for some reason by a previous owner.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Am I reading this correctly as for pin 1 being where I should see/test for 5 volts?
[quoted image]
The original power board I have has had the trim pot removed, but nothing has replaced it to adjust it. I'm using the Great Lakes Modular board in its place, though that board also has no adjustment pot. I put the old power supply board in and still have similar voltage reading, but again, the adjustment pot was removed for some reason by a previous owner.
You should be getting 5V between pins 1 and 3 of AP1 on that optical board. If not that is an issue.
If your original power board lacks the pot then someone may have measures the values and soldered in resistors in place of it on the back. I'll put in a precision multiturn version that works well.
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