(Topic ID: 190477)

The Cocktail Club

By Jappie

4 years ago


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  • 842 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by RandyW
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There are 842 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 17.
#801 60 days ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Another question for you all! Is there a way to make it so you have to qualify Mystery as opposed to it being lit at every plunge?

This club is for all cocktails so which game? I assume Caribbean Cruise, and no, rules on that game are terrible! Entertaining though.

#802 60 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

This club is for all cocktails so which game? I assume Caribbean Cruise, and no, rules on that game are terrible! Entertaining though.

Yeah sorry, updated my post to include CC

1 week later
#805 52 days ago

I'm back in the club.. this time with a Foxy Lady! Game won't start up tho.. lights up & flippers work then after a few seconds the displays fade out and go dark. Going to be a bit of a project and needs a full shop job. Been sitting in a house for 20 years.

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2 weeks later
#806 36 days ago

I'm in the club....just picked up a nice Eros One. Needs some board work but looks real nice. I think the main cap on the mpu is bad.

I cant measure 5 volts at the Cap, looks like its bad. Im getting continuity at the cap. Help!

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#807 36 days ago
Quoted from RobW:

I'm in the club....just picked up a nice Eros One. Needs some board work but looks real nice. I think the main cap on the mpu is bad.
I cant measure 5 volts at the Cap, looks like its bad. Im getting continuity at the cap. Help!
[quoted image][quoted image]

In that picture there isn't a cap to measure 5V from. You would measure 5V across the large cap on the MPU board when it is plugged in. There should be a small linear 5V power supply off to the left near the bottom if I remember correctly. You could measure 5V there.

If you are measuring the cap on the fuse board in the back of the cabinet that is not the place to check.

One word of caution if you try swapping power supplies. Do not just rely on the color codes to determine polarity. I bought one of these years ago as a non working project from someone. They had tried connecting a 5V switching supply but they went by the wire color and connected it backwards. That can cook the custom IC's on the MPU.

#808 36 days ago
Quoted from RobW:

I'm in the club....just picked up a nice Eros One. Needs some board work but looks real nice. I think the main cap on the mpu is bad.
I cant measure 5 volts at the Cap, looks like its bad. Im getting continuity at the cap. Help!

Boy, cocktails have been MIA lately here, congrats on the EO, I miss mine
Good advice above, but if you can't get it running you might have to send the boards to John's Jukes in Canada.
That's what I did (20 years ago!), it took a month to get them back but they all worked.

#809 36 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:In that picture there isn't a cap to measure 5V from. You would measure 5V across the large cap on the MPU board when it is plugged in. There should be a small linear 5V power supply off to the left near the bottom if I remember correctly. You could measure 5V there.
If you are measuring the cap on the fuse board in the back of the cabinet that is not the place to check.
One word of caution if you try swapping power supplies. Do not just rely on the color codes to determine polarity. I bought one of these years ago as a non working project from someone. They had tried connecting a 5V switching supply but they went by the wire color and connected it backwards. That can cook the custom IC's on the MPU.

Sorry, should have specified. Ive measured a good 5 volts at the power supply, I was talking about the mpu and Capacitor C19 . It looks to be bad if Im getting continuity from positive to negitive Right?

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#810 36 days ago
Quoted from RobW:

Sorry, should have specified. Ive measured a good 5 volts at the power supply, I was talking about the mpu and Capacitor C19 . It looks to be bad if Im getting continuity from positive to negitive Right?[quoted image]

How are you testing the capacitor? Are you using the capacitance function of your meter? Did you unsolder one lead of the capacitor to isolate it for testing? If not other things in the circuit can and will throw off your readings. That cap is there to filter and smooth out the 5v at the MPU. Since it should already be filtered at the power supply the game should still boot even if the cap on the MPU is dried up and not filtering as good as it should since the power supply does some filtering too.

At some point you probably will want to replace it. Check with Great Plains Electronics.

#811 36 days ago

Eros one playfield looks really cool. Hope you get it running.

#812 36 days ago
Quoted from RobW:

I'm in the club....just picked up a nice Eros One. Needs some board work but looks real nice. I think the main cap on the mpu is bad.
I cant measure 5 volts at the Cap, looks like its bad. Im getting continuity at the cap. Help!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Great pickup, I love that game! Beautiful playfield art.

1 week later
#813 25 days ago

Anyone have an extra Gottlieb A3J3 edge connecter its the 50pin black one that connects to the driver board. The one on my night move was broke when the previous owner tried to repin it with the wrong pins. PM I am willing to purchase and pay shipping.
Thanks,
Joe

#814 25 days ago

Have any of you worked on a Spectra IV machine? Just starting out with a physically nice example. Besides a normal shop job there is a blown fuse, two connectors were off the boards, and I do see some battery damage. I wasn't able to get a good look at the boards but the battery damage doesn't look as bad as some of the boards I've had to repair.

The machine is really cool and unique even among the cocktail machines. Just downloaded the manual and am going through it. One part that isn't obvious is how to get the boards out of the card cage. Going to take a better look at that tomorrow and may just pull out the whole playfield with the cards to bring it down into the shop. Would like to get a good look at the boards and see how bad the battery damage is. From what I've read there aren't too many working examples of this machine.

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#815 25 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Have any of you worked on a Spectra IV machine? Just starting out with a physically nice example. Besides a normal shop job there is a blown fuse, two connectors were off the boards, and I do see some battery damage. I wasn't able to get a good look at the boards but the battery damage doesn't look as bad as some of the boards I've had to repair.
The machine is really cool and unique even among the cocktail machines. Just downloaded the manual and am going through it. One part that isn't obvious is how to get the boards out of the card cage. Going to take a better look at that tomorrow and may just pull out the whole playfield with the cards to bring it down into the shop. Would like to get a good look at the boards and see how bad the battery damage is. From what I've read there aren't too many working examples of this machine.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Those boards are a total bitch. The cage is terrible. You have to unscrew those bars on one open side and slide them out. It’s atrocious and terribly cramped.

If you get the boards working let me know! Mine has battery damage. The way these boards are setup the acid leaks down and destroys the boards underneath

#816 25 days ago

Even if they've leaked, don't give up! *Everything* can be repaired by somebody out there.

#817 24 days ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Even if they've leaked, don't give up! *Everything* can be repaired by somebody out there.

That would be me! My specialty is with the electronics. I just did a batch of Gameplan MPU boards. Only one didn’t have battery damage. The last one needed all new sockets and a bunch of traces rebuilt and replaced along with connectors. I really hate dealing with battery damage but will save these boards. I’m expecting that I’ll need to recondition at least a couple of the edge connectors and repin their connectors like I did for a Gottlieb system 1 Buck Rogers of the same vintage I got running. From what I’ve read there aren’t many working examples of this game left. Would like to make this one more working example.

#818 24 days ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Even if they've leaked, don't give up! *Everything* can be repaired by somebody out there.

I’m feeling really good about my chances on making this game run. While there is battery damage there is significantly less than I expected. After removing the batteries I’ll need to pull off the 74ls00, remove the ROMs and CPU, remove the 4 large DIP sockets, then treat and clean the board. Fix any traces that have opened up then all new DIP sockets. Will check to ensure the tantalum caps aren’t shorted and everything else looks ok.

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#819 24 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop: That would be me!

Good to know there's someone south of the CAN boarder who can fix these boards for people!
(if you DO fix other people's boards)

#820 23 days ago
Quoted from miracleman:

Good to know there's someone south of the CAN boarder who can fix these boards for people!
(if you DO fix other people's boards)

You really think we only have one person in all of Canada?! Sheesh! Is it because we still live in igloos?

#821 23 days ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:You really think we only have one person in all of Canada?! Sheesh! Is it because we still live in igloos?

No, just less cost/forms/hassles.
20 years ago I was planning to move to Canada, but other things got in the way...

#822 23 days ago
Quoted from miracleman:

No, just less cost/forms/hassles.
20 years ago I was planning to move to Canada, but other things got in the way...

Nice! I was just giving you a hard time! There is a well known guy on the west coast John and also another guy out east Mike (i believe) that people ship boards to all the time ! fortunately i have a few local friends that help me out when needed! Just picked up a Foxy Lady.. it won't start a game but i haven't brought it out and opened it up yet! Hopefully boards are ok!

#823 23 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I’m feeling really good about my chances on making this game run. While there is battery damage there is significantly less than I expected. After removing the batteries I’ll need to pull off the 74ls00, remove the ROMs and CPU, remove the 4 large DIP sockets, then treat and clean the board. Fix any traces that have opened up then all new DIP sockets. Will check to ensure the tantalum caps aren’t shorted and everything else looks ok.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Could you fix mine? There was a company in PA that told me they fixed them, and a dealer had them fix 4 other Spectra IV’s. When I met them at a show they said they no longer fix these boards. It’s a bummer. My game has some sound and displays. It’s mostly alive, but needs a bit of work that at this time I’m not confident in my ability to execute.

#824 23 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Could you fix mine? There was a company in PA that told me they fixed them, and a dealer had them fix 4 other Spectra IV’s. When I met them at a show they said they no longer fix these boards. It’s a bummer. My game has some sound and displays. It’s mostly alive, but needs a bit of work that at this time I’m not confident in my ability to execute.

Maybe. I want to get this one running first so I have a working example to go off of. I've repaired plenty of other boards and do repairs all the time. Early Bally/Stern, Williams System 3 through WPC, Gottlieb System 1 and 80's, Gameplan, Data East, Sega, and others. I do a few Bally home boards and used to do Allied Leisure when I had an EROS I. At the moment I have a few things in the queue to clear out of the way before any new work as I prefer to take on boards when I know I can get right to them.

Can you PM some pictures of the boards you have to help see the condition?

Robert

#825 22 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Maybe. I want to get this one running first so I have a working example to go off of. I've repaired plenty of other boards and do repairs all the time. Early Bally/Stern, Williams System 3 through WPC, Gottlieb System 1 and 80's, Gameplan, Data East, Sega, and others. I do a few Bally home boards and used to do Allied Leisure when I had an EROS I. At the moment I have a few things in the queue to clear out of the way before any new work as I prefer to take on boards when I know I can get right to them.
Can you PM some pictures of the boards you have to help see the condition? Like Farfalla, Devil Riders, Magic Castle etc.
Robert

On a different note, would you do any board repairs for Zaccaria pinball machines?

#826 22 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

On a different note, would you do any board repairs for Zaccaria pinball machines?

I've never had one of those machines so unfortunately I'm not familiar with those. If I ever end up getting one and have a machine that I can use as a test fixture then I may but for the moment I'm just focusing on boards I know well and have test fixtures or games I can run them in for final testing.

#827 19 days ago

Ok, so here we are...

Ive done some board work and replaced a bad -5v. pin in the edge connector that seemed to fix a bunch of start up problems.

Problems now:
-Still no #1Led but the game starts and plays fine for a while it seems, until I hit a certain switch and then nothing until I hit another switch and it plays fine again.

-In test mode three, player one display shows switch #60 is closed left pop bumper. Even with the switch wires disconnected

-Cant get the slings to fire. I changed the Transistors and caps for these (tip3055, mps6531)and they still wont fire even in test mode, so I thought it was a bad ic cause I got a bad reading on IC15 this was replaced before so I thought Id start there. A lot of old board work...I put in a socket and new 7404...nothing still.

Any help appreciated
Rob

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#828 18 days ago
Quoted from RobW:

Ok, so here we are...
Ive done some board work and replaced a bad -5v. pin in the edge connector that seemed to fix a bunch of start up problems.
Problems now:
-Still no #1Led but the game starts and plays fine for a while it seems, until I hit a certain switch and then nothing until I hit another switch and it plays fine again.
-In test mode three, player one display shows switch #60 is closed left pop bumper. Even with the switch wires disconnected
-Cant get the slings to fire. I changed the Transistors and caps for these (tip3055, mps6531)and they still wont fire even in test mode, so I thought it was a bad ic cause I got a bad reading on IC15 this was replaced before so I thought Id start there. A lot of old board work...I put in a socket and new 7404...nothing still.
Any help appreciated
Rob
[quoted image]

Have you checked the resistors and electrolytic cap for the problem solenoids too? Years ago I repaired a board that was supposedly repaired prior and I found a burned resistor and severely bulging electrolytic cap for one of the solenoid transistors that had been replaced.

If neither sling is firing can you measure the resistance of the coils. Can you check continuity from those coils to the connector and ultimately to the transistors that drive them?

If all that checks out and you have voltage at the coils then it would be time to break out the logic probe. In test when those should fire you should be able to follow on the logic side and see it toggle between high and low as it tries to fire. If you don’t get anything you may have an open on the board. Or you’ll find another IC with a stuck or dead output. Once you get used to working with a logic probe it is really useful to diagnose issues quickly. They are fairly cheap too.

#829 18 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Could you fix mine? There was a company in PA that told me they fixed them, and a dealer had them fix 4 other Spectra IV’s. When I met them at a show they said they no longer fix these boards. It’s a bummer. My game has some sound and displays. It’s mostly alive, but needs a bit of work that at this time I’m not confident in my ability to execute.

If you get a chance can you post pictures of your MPU to see how bad the battery damage is?

#830 18 days ago

Under the machine listing for the Spectra IV I added a couple pictures. One of the lamp driver and another for the solenoid driver/sound card. There are plenty of pictures of the MPU boards but thought it would help to have pictures of those boards too. Will try to add others as I work on my game.

#831 18 days ago
Quoted from RobW:

Ok, so here we are...
Ive done some board work and replaced a bad -5v. pin in the edge connector that seemed to fix a bunch of start up problems.
Problems now:
-Still no #1Led but the game starts and plays fine for a while it seems, until I hit a certain switch and then nothing until I hi

So you know. The line shooter switch is not a regular switch. Is an actuator. In order to the game works properly this switch must be activated by the ball when it pass by. Check it clen it and adjust it.

#832 18 days ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

You really think we only have one person in all of Canada?! Sheesh! Is it because we still live in igloos?

My igloo melted last year, but I cobbled together a lean-to and it seems to be doing okay.

I don't think it's that nobody can repair them... there are at least four other people I know besides myself in Ottawa that are capable of doing this kind of board repair and are good at it. The problem is that we all have full time jobs and also our own machines to maintain. The last Game Plan MPU that I rebuilt took somewhere between 10-20 hours to repair plus a handful of parts out of my "rare unobtainable stuff" drawers.

I still maintain that it's worth the effort to make all of these games playable again, but if I was doing this commercially I'd have to charge $750 for a board repair to make it worth the time, and I don't feel like I can do that to other collectors. I'd prefer to rescue them from the trash, rebuild them in my spare time, and make sure that those board are available to rescue games when necessary.

#833 18 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Have you checked the resistors and electrolytic cap for the problem solenoids too? Years ago I repaired a board that was supposedly repaired prior and I found a burned resistor and severely bulging electrolytic cap for one of the solenoid transistors that had been replaced.
If neither sling is firing can you measure the resistance of the coils. Can you check continuity from those coils to the connector and ultimately to the transistors that drive them?
If all that checks out and you have voltage at the coils then it would be time to break out the logic probe. In test when those should fire you should be able to follow on the logic side and see it toggle between high and low as it tries to fire. If you don’t get anything you may have an open on the board. Or you’ll find another IC with a stuck or dead output. Once you get used to working with a logic probe it is really useful to diagnose issues quickly. They are fairly cheap too.

Thanks Robot!

I did replace the caps and checked resistors. Coil resistance is good and I changed the diodes too. I also switched two 6820's to see if the problem followed, it didn't. Looks like the logic probe is the next step.

#834 18 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I’m feeling really good about my chances on making this game run. While there is battery damage there is significantly less than I expected. After removing the batteries I’ll need to pull off the 74ls00, remove the ROMs and CPU, remove the 4 large DIP sockets, then treat and clean the board. Fix any traces that have opened up then all new DIP sockets. Will check to ensure the tantalum caps aren’t shorted and everything else looks ok.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Found a bad 1n4003 diode on the board too. Tried running it this morning but no luck. Just found that both 5101 RAM chips were bad and the 6532 RIOT had two bad pins. Put in sockets and new chips for all of those. Also added a 4F memory capacitor. Going to try running it again and will see if I get better luck tomorrow.

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#835 17 days ago

If anyone has the schematic for the small daughter board for the Spectra IV MPU that would really help. Also some good reference photos of the small board. One of the caps was replaced on mine and I'm not sure if the right replacement was installed.

At the moment the board is stuck in RESET. Everything is pointing towards that board. I read that someone just removed it and installed a 4093 in place and that worked. I may end up trying that.

#836 16 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If anyone has the schematic for the small daughter board for the Spectra IV MPU that would really help. Also some good reference photos of the small board. One of the caps was replaced on mine and I'm not sure if the right replacement was installed.
At the moment the board is stuck in RESET. Everything is pointing towards that board. I read that someone just removed it and installed a 4093 in place and that worked. I may end up trying that.

I did install a 4093 in place of that reset daughter board and now am getting a reset pulse at the CPU that I expect. It seems that the CPU isn’t running and there isn’t activity on the address or data lines. While the PROM chips were all ok I think whatever took out both 5101 RAM chips and the 6532 RIOT may have damaged the CPU as well. Ordered a couple spares and will resume testing once they arrive unless I happen to find a 6503 in my parts stash.

#837 11 days ago

Looking to join the club tomorrow with a take 5. I see that at one point there was a riser attachment to raise the game. Has anyone made a riser for their game?

1 week later
#838 3 days ago

After ages of searching, I finally found a night Moves that was A. close to me and B. complete and working, mostly. Unfortunately, the playfield is not quite what I had hoped. It has some wear and heavy planking. Does anyone have a Night Moves Playfield for sale?

#839 3 days ago
Quoted from RandyW:

After ages of searching, I finally found a night Moves that was A. close to me and B. complete and working, mostly. Unfortunately, the playfield is not quite what I had hoped. It has some wear and heavy planking. Does anyone have a Night Moves Playfield for sale?

I wish! Post your game, most of them were HUO and didn’t spend much time if any on route! Mine was routed for 4 years and got beat to hell. It’s kinda funny! NM and CC are two games that have disproportionally large amounts of HUO examples and a lot of us who look seem to find the handful that somehow DID do well on route

#840 3 days ago

It’s a ten footer. In pics it looks pretty good. The play field is rough to the touch. Also I just found evidence of a very bad alkaline abatement, which is probably what is going on with my switch matrix.

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#841 3 days ago
Quoted from RandyW:

It’s a ten footer. In pics it looks pretty good. The play field is rough to the touch. Also I just found evidence of a very bad alkaline abatement, which is probably what is going on with my switch matrix.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It’s got the small metal apron shield. It’s one of the early production models. That thing is beat!! Looks like it was stored improperly at one point. Maybe it was in a somewhat moist area? Mine came from Florida and is pretty worn. I’ve noticed a lot of these were down south for some reason

#842 3 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

It’s got the small metal apron shield. It’s one of the early production models. That thing is beat!!

Yea, I'm hoping to come across a good PF to drop into it. Or, maybe I'll find another Night Moves and sell this one on down the road. But for now, I'm glad to have it and looking forward to getting it working.

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