Sadly I remember it being around $100-ish, plus shipping, 20 years ago. They worked when I got them back, but if I tightened down the mpu board all the way it'd get flakey, meaning there was a small cracked trace somewhere. I just loosened up the mounting screws and it worked fine while I had it, I stupidly sold the Eros with all my games in my first "purge".

Funny footnote- 9 years ago bought a Hercules with some friends for $300, worked all the way but had no shooter rod. Only one person in North America had one for sale, for $100, and he was in Canada

Ugh. I'm definitely feeling like this project is going to be very frustrating, although I do have a good friend about 60 miles away who collects cocktails. So I've got SOME help and parts available, but as far as actual board repair goes...sounds like there's only one option there. I just wish I had some kind of idea on cost as I sent it off. Really hard to justify putting hundreds (by that I mean $500+, not $200-300) into..a roy clark.. even with the sentiment pushing this project forward.

First, do you know your board is actually bad or has issues? No reason to send it out yet. Does your friend have any Allied Leisure machines? You could try running the board in another game to see if it is working or not. Unless it had a problem with over voltage your customs could still be fine. I'd carefully clean the edge connector. Pink eraser then wipe with rubbing alcohol. If the oxidation is heavy you can lightly use a fiberglass pen before using the pink eraser.

The way it was stored would make me concerned about oxidation on the IC's and the condition of the DIP sockets. You could try to carefully pull then partially out of the socket and reseat to see if it temporarily clears the issue. If that takes care of it then at least you know and can get the sockets replaced later.

Also have you checked for 5V at the large capacitor on the MPU? Also are the LED's lit on the power board? Always check for good power first and then go onto the board if all are good.

If any of the plastic clips that hold the top of the MPU are broken I modeled up a replacement and posted on thingiverse. Worked out well.

I haven't confirmed that the board is bad. I'm clearly getting some kind of response from it, with the controlled lights and on the displays. But it's not working right. I notice that first plug on the bottom (so in the left corner of the board) seems to be the one that makes it reset.. It looks to me like it's starting, then resetting and getting hung there.

My friend does have some ALI machines and said I was welcome to both try my board in his otherwise working (ish. the kickout isn't working I guess?) Circa 1933, and vice versa to try his board in my cabinet so I could isolate issues. Unfortunately he's not just right down the street (he's about 60 miles away) so I can't just quickly go test, but I do plan on meeting up with him in the next couple of weeks.

I did polish the edge connectors, but nothing changed on the way the board behaved. I checked for cold solder joints or anything that looked weird on the board..nothing looked burned or otherwise out of place, but again I'm not a PCB repair guy. It's absolutely possible I could have missed something.

I'm getting a solid 5V on the capacitor on the board. That seems good, and I don't see any ripple (although I could certainly be doing something wrong there..I've never done that test before, even though it seems like it should be pretty simple).

I'm okay with pulling chips and things off -- although I've never done it before -- but I want to make sure I approach it correctly as I'm definitely concerned I could damage this thing further. Any suggestions there?

Attaching these in case it's helpful to see them, i can delete this post afterward to clean up the thread a bit.

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I was going to try jumpering the ground and +5VDC to the board as indicated on the flippers.com page but my red connector doesn't even KIND of match. It does look like the board in the picture matches the number on my board (PCB50250125H), so I'm at a loss for why my connector is so different.

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You can not always trust the color codes on what is positive and negative on these machines. You should be able to check at the main cap on the MPU. You can confirm by checking continuity on some of the supply lines +5v and ground on the IC's against that cap to confirm your connections are right.

Overall that board looks really clean. May want to keep those pictures up since people with the same game can use them as a reference.

I don't mind leaving everything I posted so long as it's not considered unnecessary and unwelcome clutter.

Yeah, I'm afraid to change anything with any of the wiring because of uncertainty with wires, etc. I did download the manual and a few things stuck out to me. The controlled lights that are on seem to match test mode four, like somehow the board is going into that test and getting stuck? I don't know. Also my LED3 and LED4 never go off again after they temporarily go off and then come back on (simultaneouslythe scores in both player 1 and player 2 are blanked and never come back).

I tried disconnecting the plug that has all of the wiring for the test switch, start button, etc, just to see if maybe that changed anything but unsurprisingly it did not.

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The board does seem to do the same thing if I connect ONLY the power (red) and nothing else. LED1 comes on (dim) and then goes off. LED3/LED4 come on, go off, then come back on and stay on. Obvioiusly my lighting situation is different with nothing else hooked up, but the board seems to be indicating it's doing the same thing without being hooked to anything other than power. Unless there's something weird with that plug.. But I'm definitely getting a solid 5V at the capacitor and I didn't see any ripple.

Does anybody have a spare working MPU for an Allied Leisure cocktail pin for sale?

After lurking in this thread for a couple years, I finally found one

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Looks great! I was hoping to try my friend's but it wouldn't boot. Looks like a fun game!

Did find out today that my wife's long-slumbering, rat-harboring Roy Clark appears to work with a mostly functioning board. Now it's time to send like 7 boards to Canada for repairs...

The metal side piece I do have (its gross, as you might imagine) plus the one I'm taking off a parts machine will be going for powdercoating.

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Not even one, but the best one! Congrats.

Where are you sending them for powder-coating?

I beg to differ, Night Moves is the better of the two! Maybe if CC didn’t always give multiball as an award constantly.

A friend of mine down south does all my stuff. Maybe it's time to send him some parts for taxi too...

You can beg to differ but you'd be wrong.CC is bolted to the floor NM is long gone.

Actually, I think they are both excellent machines!

I've been wanting a Cocktail pin for awhile and finally scored 2. Eros One and Family Fun, I bought them as a package with only one functioning. Eros one worked great and Family Fun was dead, but only required a fuse to get running. Now I have two more problems with Family Fun, my right pop bumper solenoid is dead and the right kicker is also dead and there is no sound except for a steady buzz. Just starting to try to figure it out. There appears to be a missing connector at J4 on the MPU that may be connected to the sound board somehow. I am new to these little pins so I am hoping for someone with this similar pin might have some insight. It also appears that someone tried a new solenoid on the right pop but that was not the answer. I can take better pictures if anyone needs a closer look.

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I agree they are the 2 best cocktails

Fixed all the drops (switches needed reassembled with new tubes and bigger screws to tap the plastic housing) except for A, which is physically broken. Tied the contacts together for now so the bank can be completed and reset. Couldn't repair it enough to allow me to get it back in there, but I should have a new one soonish...I hope. I have a bunch of flaky sockets to deal with too now that LEDs are in..but the board I scrounged up seems to function perfectly, so that's nice. Another board won't fire the right sling and another won't fire the left pop, and another won't credit a game but seems to start fine otherwise. Going to look over the schematic and see if I can test components that maybe I can replace on the first two boards.

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A few years ago when I was working on Allied Leisure boards I had to work on a couple that were supposedly fixed. There were issues that hadn't been completely resolved. One of those was with the solenoids. what I found was some burned up resistors and bad electrolytic caps for those solenoids. It would be worth checking those as well as the driving transistors and work all the way back to the 6530's. It's been a while but I'll try to help if I can.

I plan on sending several off to John but I figured if I could easily fix the ones that were 95% there, maybe it made more sense to just do those myself. I'm by no means a pcb repair guy but I can learn... lol

I need to pick up my friend's night moves and try diagnosing that too. Little more support out there for that one than for these ALI games!

Did you explain to the kids who Roy Clark was yet?

Hell, *I* barely know who Roy Clark was!

You gotta wonder just how that licensing even came about.
Here's a SMOOOOTH intro by Johnny Cash of Roy tearin' it up, and he's even wearing the same outfit from the pin!

Lol. I love it.

As for my wife's roy, I did some more tearing down (researching why the p2 display likes to put a leading 4 on the score) and cleaned up the rest of the rat...er..debris. and added a trough light, because why the hell not? My friend is working on creating new stone new drops.. no idea if we'll have any success there or not. I do have replacement parts that can be salvaged from parts machines but new stuff that's easily available would really be nice.

I've also got a few flickering lights after LEDing... but I'm getting closer with it. Once that's all fixed all I really want to do is implement some sort of free play configuration and then replace the ball with a lighter one.

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Oh, and I'm bringing my friend's Night Moves home here soon to try and get it up and working for him. When I was over I put the boards back in and when I turned it on it made some kind of weird...clicking... noise, and then switched to just GI. Not sure if that means the MPU is toast or not but I told him I'd get it running.. and maybe play the hell out of it for a bit... lol

Could be the flipper relay or the GI relay. A sign of life in my opinion.

Agreed. It's TRYING, it just seems It's shutting down to protect itself.

Do you know if this game has a voltage pot like the system 3 games do? When I got my Cactus Jack's home I was sure it was dead and I did it with the long drive.. until I discovered the voltage pot and adjusted it to 5.05V.

I just got this Family Fun pin (AKA Star Trip), and it was dead. Replaced a fuse and it start and had some functions. A lot of bulbs out and several solenoids didn't work.
First job was to get solenoids working, so reflowed the solenoid driver board and that surprisingly fixed all my non-functioning solenoids, next is bulbs, changed a bunch of bulb sockets and that wasn't the answer, they are mostly LED's. Also, tested and changed a couple of the small SCR's on the lamp driver board, but I have to look at IC's next. Lights are much improved but there are still several out and several of those randomly flicker.

I did notice the MPU is aftermarket made by Echo Lake Pinball. It looks new, and I assume it is completely compatible. However the most annoying error is the constant steady tone, but I can hear the some output from the sound board, beeps on some switches, so I'm running on low volume. Not sure what's up there, audio card? But I do know these little pins are big fun.
An electronic technician I am not, but I am trying to learn.
If anyone has any pointers or hints or directions, I am a new to these little old pins so any help is appreciated.

Give Jim at Echo Lake a call, if it’s his board he should have some suggestions. I emailed him not long ago and he’s very prompt!

Thanks, I'll try that direction see what he suggests.

I joined the club today. Oldest pin I have owned. Excited to learn from it. Plays great!

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Bringing one of those home tomorrow (just on loan), but not working. I'm excited to try it!

Thanks,

From what I can tell inserts were all swapped out for led. Harder to get to general illumination was left as incandescent. It has a little playfield wear and I need to clean it inside and out. I think my first attempt at fixing it up will be the the incandescents and moving the battery off of the board.

As promised, Night Moves is on its way to my house to be brought back to the land of the living before coming back to its home at my friend's house..the cocktail warehouse! Once it warms up a bit and he's a bit less busy, we're bringing
a bunch of these cocktails back to life. 6 allied leisure boards are packed and heading to Canada tomorrow.

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Got it to boot, just needed to mess with the voltage pot like I suspected. Credits up but won't start a game. Doesn't seem to recognize a ball in any of the saucers (I assume it should kick them out, right?)

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Short-lived success. Went to test mode and it seemed to get hung (was able to verify function of right flipper and both pops, left flipper wouldn't work) so i power cycled and it was back to flaky behavior. Now I can't get the voltage pot right again so it will boot.

Where's the test point to actually measure the voltage from adjusting that pot?

Check for 5v at the MPU board. Probably should check the connector at the MPU as well. If the battery leaks it can corrode the connector and you’ll get a drop there.

I'm getting all sorts of strange behavior on this. I suspect the MPU is....problematic... but I hate to tell my friend to just buy the swemmer board if he potentially has other issues. I've gotten it to boot a couple of times but otherwise it's been weird/glitchy behavior as I adjust that pot. Seemed 5-5.2V at the mpu was giving me the best chance for boot but I couldn't get it again after the prior boots.

This was the last time i got it to boot. Wish I had taken the voltage when that happened.. it's not wanting to boot now.

Have you pulled the MPU board to check the edge connectors? On mine I had to clean all of those, fix some battery damage, re-pin the power connector. I also ended up replacing the larger cap in the base of the machine. Is there still an original battery on the board? If so remove it. I've seen some cases where a bad battery on a board was dragging things down. I hate batteries on boards and installed NVRAM on mine.

While having a spare board around for troubleshooting can help you may find you still have the same issues after dropping hundreds on a new board. I'd also check all the grounds on the boards. I haven't done ground mods on mine yet but did ensure they were all making a good connection. At the very least you may want to unplug and reseat each of those ground connection cables that plug in at the back in the base of the machine.

The mechanics of these games are solid. Once you work through the electrical the rest is too.

The mpu was loose, along with a few other boards, when I first looked at this. I didn't clean any edge connectors so I'll try that. The original battery is indeed still on the board.

I think we were also talking on facebook; I'm getting no boot now. Bummer.

//edit
I pulled the mpu to check edge connectors again and they already looked fine but I used an eraser on them again to be sure. No change in the game. Only GI now. Fuses all test good.

Checked the big cap in the base of the machine and pulled a solid 12.95V. I'm fine with just assuming this is a board issue and sending it off or replacing, just want to make sure I check off all the other things that could have caused this behavior first. Although, with it not booting at all now.. not sure I can really test anything until boards are sorted. Not sure what damage I did to these last night, but it's doing nothing now.

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Also, I'm assuming the ground for the reset board goes here, is that correct?
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Having duplicate games so boards can be dropped in is great. That's what allowed me to quickly figure out that my roy was otherwise working and just needed a working board (well, that and an unobtainable drop target). He does have a Mars God of War but afaik that's as close to 80B as either of us has.

I have a quick question. I just got my game and it is playing well. I haven’t read this thread yet but plan to soon.

Last night when I opened coin door while it was on I noticed a red flashing light on the board to my right. Is that troublesome?

Am I risking damage to my game if I play it until I familiarize myself and learn more about the insides of this game?

Thanks

I highly doubt that's anything to be concerned about. Mine is doing *nothing* right now. No LED there or on the MPU. So, I'm sure you're fine. Play it and have fun!

I got mine to do......something....by messing with the 100uF cap on the MPU. Actually I noticed it when I had the DMM probe leads on it to mess with voltage again. It went from doing *nothing* to at least lighting some lights and doing other various things. Still can't get it to actually boot again, but it's as though that jarred it into at least TRYING to work again. Not really sure where to go from here..do I just pull the MPU and send it off? Say hell with it and buy the Swemmer? Light the entire thing on fire and tell my friend I'm sorry, it grenaded itself (not seriously proposing this...lol)?!

Did you get your self a manual and schematics? I am also working through a semi functions unit myself. Get lots of information.

This is where you can download a manual and schematics https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=night+moves&sortby=name&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#3507

Good information found here- http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/ and here - https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

I went through the manual this one came with a couple of times but it didn't really help me much. I assume the MPU has issues (as I was told it might when I started looking at this)..so I pulled the MPU/Solenoid Driver Board/Power Supply board and they're on their way to Chris Hibler today. I figure that if the game is doing weird stuff (IE some controlled lighting, but not all, random solenoid firing, random flashers flashing...etc) with a solid 5.15V supplied to the MPU...it's probably not worth investigating further until I know for sure the boards are good. Guess now I wait a few months for my spot in the queue before I can get back to it. :\

The blinking LED is normal, that means your boards are working properly. They just blink away. If it’s locked on you’ve got issues, lol.

I’d definitely guess acid damage as caused some connection issues on the MPU. Those sys80b MPUs are flakey as hell and need work to bulletproof them. My original was spaghetti and I was able to buy a good one. Also don’t plug in that reset board, that thing is useless and causes lockups and other issues. It’s that janky Molex coming off of a chip on your board, it goes to the reset board that protects against the game getting bricked on location. Occasionally they found that the game would just lock up so the board will detect that and force reset it. None of these are ever on location or left alone long enough where it matters so just leave it unplugged.

Yeah, it's weird that I was able to get it to boot at all tbh..I couldn't reproduce it the next day and it was doing all sorts of crazy stuff. I think it should be okay once it's bulletproofed..I hope...

Interesting info on the reset board. So it won't affect operation at all having that unplugged? Guessing that means I also don't need to concern myself with that ground wire?

Correct on both accounts. I just leave mine sitting there but it’s not hooked up. I still have random errant grounds, sometimes with sys80b you can’t eliminate them, you can only minimize them