Hi all. As of yesterday I finally became an owner of TBL (non-EA, NIB, serial DP-01-00478)! I'm still getting used to the menus and what the games automatic testing warnings/errors mean. So far everything is working without issue, except for one thing. This test error keeps displaying almost every time I power up, but not 100% consistently:

"Bowling Release EOS Left (stuck closed)"

I've pulled up the PF and wiggled all of what I think are the "EOS" switches and I'm not seeing anything physically wrong/stuck. However, I may not be looking at the right place since I also don't know the exact switch/coil this error is referring to. I can't seem to find the answer in the online manual or by searching pinside. If it helps, the game came installed with software version 0.53 and the issue was right out of the box. I did update to 0.55 and that didn't change anything. I'm a newbie to this machine so if you have any ideas, please let me know. Thanks!

Thank you for ALL of this info and that document. Yes the launcher is working. That's the odd thing, nothing physically has seemed wrong. Also today after a few power ups the error has not resurfaced. If it does again I'll bring this conversation to the maintenance topic. Thanks so much Rensh !

PSA: Don't put the rug on the floor if you have cats. This was barely 10 secs after I heard the plucking. My cat Lucy easily pulled the stuffing out from below. Cats....

PXL_20210416_223434016 (resized).jpg

Mod hookup question. I purchased the bowling pins and creedence tape mods along with the custom harness from the mod couple. From the harness they provide, the bowling light/5V works but the 12V that's supposed go to the creedence tape does not. They've sent me a replacement harness and a replacement creedence LED. No change. It seems like nothing is coming from the 12V lead from their harnesses they've sent and my worry is that it's not coming from the stock connector/board at all (for example I can hook the working bowling pins mod to the 12V and it doesn't work, then vice versa the tape to it and I get nothing). I do own a multimeter but am very apprehensive to test anything beyond continuity.

Regardless, I plan to get the lit apron which uses the connection where the mod couple's harness lives, so that harness is going to have to go away anyhow. I'll need to hook up their mods differently. I'm wondering how I'm going to light those two after I get the apron. I understand you can leverage the 12V connector out of the backbox instead and that's better recommended (as Rensh describes in this document https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9x448ip0ib4shvq/AAACf-gf-VRBhe9f69kmL8wAa?dl=0&preview=Where+to+hook+up+my+Mods+FAQ.pdf). However, these mod couple mods are mini-molex(?)--not the same connection as that backbox wire. I'm in the US, could someone point me to links to buy the connector adapters and converters (so I can have both 12V and 5V outs) that I will need? I don't even know the search terms for something like this. Thanks!

Rensh I have suspicions that this "mod connector" on my machine is not outputting 12V, only 5V. Therefore, I'm worried that when I get my lit apron, it will not work. I assume 12V is required for the apron? Before I knew of your cautions in your mod installation FAQ, I did not know that this connector a) Needs to be used for the lit apron and b) That it is not recommended to use it to install mods. Before I received the game I'd already purchased the gutterballs (5V), creedence tape (12V), and custom wire harness mods from The Mod Couple. From their harness, the 5V worked immediately but the 12V does not. They even sent me a replacement harness and creedence LED (12V) replacements to try. Continuity works within the harness 12V connections and I can use a different 12V connection from another machine to get the creedence LED to light, so it's not the harness or their mods that are the issue. I have since decided to remove the harness and both mods entirely just to be safe.

Is there something I can do to confirm that 12V is coming from that connector so that when I get my apron there isn't an issue? Maybe you could add to your EA Apron Installation FAQ a proper and safe way to test or confirm 12V is coming from this connector? Given all of the issues I've faced, I'm apprehensive to put my multimeter anywhere on the machine while its powered up and am definitely an amateur in this area. I just want to see what I can do to make sure the apron works once I receive it. Thanks!

TomDK Like I said, my concern is that I've proven that "the mod couple" harness and their mod which requires 12V (but doesn't work from the TBL mod connector) has no wiring issue when it comes to continuity. Both of their harness connector and "matrix" 12V mod connectors have continuity where expected, yet it doesn't power the 12V mod, only the 5v one. This is why I am concerned that the TBL stock connector is not outputting 12V and that my apron may not work.

I also cannot find a Y cable anywhere online that connects from the backbox with the right molex connector to two, 2-pin "matrix" connectors that these any almost every mod out there requires. So that's why I asked Rensh to a) update his FAQs with both a link to where a proper connector that uses a recommended TBL power source can be purchased and b) add specific instructions to how to safely test the TBL mod's connector for 12V using a multimeter. I hope this clarifies.

Thanks Rensh , as I mentioned above, if there's a safe way to test with my multimeter, I would prefer to know for sure that 12V is coming from this connector before I receive the apron.

Rensh and TomDK Before our conversation in this thread about mod connectors, I purchased a "Power Tap for ATX Power Supply Games" from Pinball Life. It is in their category for TBL compatible 12V and 5V mods. However, I have no idea how I use this, do you? It doesn't have the same molex connector you speak of that comes from the TBL back box nor does it have the standard 2 pin, "matrix" connectors that most mods use, specifically the connectors that The Mod Couple mods use (I think it is 2.5mm Pitch 2-pin JST XH?). So what else do I need to create the right "Y Cable"? Can you please post links, photos to where I can purchase what I need and instructions?

See links and pictures:

The supposedly TBL compatible Y cable I purchased which has the wrong connectors for what I need, "Power Tap for ATX Power Supply Games": https://www.pinballlife.com/power-tap-for-atx-power-supply-games.html
Power Tap for ATX Power Supply Games (resized).jpg

Again, the two mods I need to hook up and their types of tiny, 2-pin matrix connectors:
5V Mod: https://themodcouplepinball.com/products/the-big-lebowski-gutterballs-abide-custom-color-changing-mod
12V Mod: https://themodcouplepinball.com/products/the-big-lebowski-the-creedence-is-found-illuminated-custom-mod
Example of what the connectors look like:
2.5mm Pitch 2-pin Cable Matching Pair - JST XH (resized).jpg

Bump: https://beta.pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/42#post-6264617
Can anyone help with this mod Y cable to the right connectors question?

Thank you TomDK I agree with what you are saying but I cannot find the exact type of Y-cable needed with the right connectors. So my guess is no one makes one. I don't even know the names of the connectors I need, that's why I posted pictures and asked for links to buy what I need. The Y-cable I posted a photo of already splits out 5V and 12V (https://imgproxy.pinside.com/25_ZRLPRwu5hgZptMrJsLpCtSoMQYQTcpNgb8YPh9IM/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2MvNTEvOTkvYzUxOTk3YzZhOGFjOTgwNDFjZWQxNTI0ZGI0MWVlNWZhYjYyNDM3Ny5qcGc) outputs to 2 x 4-pin/4 wires/connectors that the TBL doesn't use. So how do I take that Y-cable and connect from the TBL power supply to the 5V needs of one of the small 2-pin connectors and the 12V to the other small 2-pin connector from the mods I have? (the second photo I posted https://imgproxy.pinside.com/4QEPMg1C-HHE_V7pLMlSXyerkB3qm8M5QnmepGAWWAQ/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tLzIvZGEvNTMvMmRhNTM4NDQ5MGMwNGMxN2QyNGI5OWMyMjdiMDU3MWZlZjY4YTliMS5qcGc) Do I simply only use the red and black wires?

Apparently some people don't understand how forums work either and just post their opinions and assumptions about people's intelligence instead of actually answering questions from the community.

Thank you very much, TomDK . This is the information I was hoping for. I am experienced in soldering and somewhat good with a multimeter but when it comes to electronics power or crimping my own cables, I am still learning. This type of information helps that learning process. Yes your earlier comments helped influence an experienced modder to start on creating a harness, which I will wait for while I learn to be more self sufficient in this area, so thank you!

BigLebowski That topper looks awesome, can it be purchased in the U.S.? I've only seen the Gutter balls one but prefer yours. Apologies if there's already an earlier post with a link to it. If you have a link to where to buy it, that would be great!

Yes that's the one I bought and asked about earlier in this thread because I'm completely puzzled as how to leverage it.

I'm losing my mind over the issue after issue with my NIB TBL I received less than a month ago. Can anyone who follows this owner's thread please look at this post and the related ones in the maintenance thread? I seem to be having issues that no one has ever reported before and really need some expert help. Thank you. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/12#post-6283770

Just as a follow up on the apron, I got mine today and it works like a charm! So no 12V issue after all. That scratches one more concern off the list! Thanks you guys for all your input on this.

I haven't run into this but could only find steps from ubuntu experts themselves: https://itsfoss.com/how-to-fix-system-program-problem-detected-ubuntu/

Is there a post in this thread that gives options besides having someone plug in a keyboard and dig into the system? Seems like there should be an in game resolution for this.

Yup, see page 29 of this FAQ: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9x448ip0ib4shvq/AAACf-gf-VRBhe9f69kmL8wAa?dl=0&preview=Technical+support+TBL+FAQ+manual.pdf

Congrats! Yeah that was me who posted about that. My dip switches weren't exactly correct but I don't think that was causing the issue as it persisted after. Also sometimes the red and black output to speakers wires are wrong, but mine weren't. But you'll want to check that too. See where posts started and ended here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/11#post-6273335

DP sent me a new audio board. However the hiss as appeared again since, it's just not happening nearly as often as it was with the old board. I don't think a root cause is known yet, so you'll want to ping DP support. Hope this helps.

I'm no expert, and Rens or others can correct me if I'm wrong -- there may be an FAQ already for this but I couldn't find one. This is what I've learned about how these ports work since owning the machine a few months:

Put the stock grey and black cables back to where they were on the Right side connector. The available 2x USB ports on the Left side connector are there for a code USB (or other peripherals if needed). Use one of those Left ports instead to install the code. The .ZIP file needs to be in the root folder of your USB stick and remain as the .ZIP you downloaded from Dutch (do not extract it).

Why did you change the USB connections? Were you NOT able to install the code via your own USB stick by using the open, left side USB ports? If that's the case it's probably a problem with your USB stick format / how you placed the .ZIP file onto it.

I have the non-EA one and while it's missing the Early Achiever portion of the lighting, I will say that it's extremely awesome! Plus anyone who is a EA pre-orderer should have something extra-extra-extra special given their hardship/wait for the machine itself. Their dedication and patience deserves it, not me. The way the lit apron integrates with the already stock game lighting is fantastic. Once you install it you'll likely feel like it's as if it was meant to be there all along. In other words, it doesn't feel like an "add-on" like some other static lit mods do. It's integrated with its own PCB, individual star lights fade in/out in a programmatic manner, and in the way they do complements everything lit on the playfield while playing and in attract mode. DP truly took their time in creating something special. So, if you're looking to spend extra to truly enhance the experience, it's very much worth it to go with this vs. a topper IMHO. Keep in mind that you'll have to give up any apron cards as there aren't slots for those. But you probably won't care about that since the lit apron is so awesome and likely your machine is HUO on free play anyhow.

That copper look is just so perfect! Also agree with the doobie mod. Plus the new stuff he's still working on looks equally cool, if not even duder than the doob! For those unaware, keep your eyes on his classified ad. One of the best things he just recently brought to the table is a harness to hook up multiple mods safely (posted earlier in this thread). Especially if you're already using the ribbon connector for a lit apron and need a different way to hook 'em up. I should be receiving mine next week.

I snagged a pre-order as well. The detail looks awesome. Too bad the rug stand is missing a piss stain though!

Noma2017 Is correct. AFAIK The only difference b/t the "Collectors Edition" and the "Exclusive" is that with the "Exclusive" you get an extra hand that's holding a doobie. It took me a few looks at the different item descriptions to tell. Same price ironically but fortunately! Now just to wait until May-summer 2022 to know for sure!

Any advice on adjusting the left loop metal guide to avoid so many SDTMs from Rug Skillshot and/or during the rug mode that opens the left gate when you hit the right loop? I found a couple posts where someone shaved down / "flattened" the side of the post rubber that touches the end of the metal then another where someone said they "bent" the metal guide slightly. But I'm not sure the expected behavior i.e. if its supposed to funnel to the left or right flipper. Mine when it doesn't drain will catch the very tip of the left flipper. I do have the game leveled to 6.5 and L/R level seems solid. I was looking for an adjustment on the underside instead of going and bending the metal but either it's hidden under one of the PCBs or doesn't exist. Appreciate any advice!

You and DP are more than welcome! Thank you for taking my suggestions to heart! I'm very thankful that I was able to help in "bug land" as well (repro-ing bugs is my jam! ). It's also incredibly cool that you are going with a larger focus for 1.0. I wholeheartedly agree with this decision and am looking forward to continuing to help along the way if I can.

FYI for anyone who's an audiophile like I am, I created a thread a while back on how I output audio from all my machines to my external system in my small gameroom (2 x active speakers and a sub) including TBL: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-i-set-up-the-perfect-audio-experience-for-my-small-gameroom

Mark at Pinnovators has a mod that works for TBL. I don't know if it will affect your warranty but the kit he created is pretty non-invasive---meaning it simply taps into the output audio wires from TBL to channel the audio to a separate destination while still maintaining it within the machine: Pinnovators PinSUB Multi-System Stereo

Check it out if you're interested and of course implement at your own risk!

See Rensh 's troubleshooting FAQ starting on page 102: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9x448ip0ib4shvq/AAACf-gf-VRBhe9f69kmL8wAa?dl=0&preview=Technical+support+TBL+FAQ+manual.pdf

My error. That link I posted takes you to the main Dropbox folder not the PDF in question, sorry!

You're the best, KoenHeltzel ! Thank you and DP so much for putting this out in time for the holidays! 1.0 is going to be well worth the wait. Yet having the scoring fixes alone in 0.58 for now is huge. THANK YOU!

Apologies if this is already explained somewhere but is there a way to reset high scores only? Or do you have to do a full factory reset which incl. wiping all settings, audits and profiles? I'm running 0.58. Thanks!

Ok that's what I figured. Would be nice to be able to delete just the high scores and keep the profiles. I'll submit an enhancement request! Thanks for confirming!

Rensh KoenHeltzel Any ETA on the 1.00 code release? I know you've been working hard on it just figured I'd ask for the sake of asking.

Got my "topper" today! Cheers to hoping the museum putty keeps him up there!
Link: The Dude Sixth Scale Figure (Exclusive) by Sideshow Collectibles
Museum Putty: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJU290

PXL_20220701_182649314.jpg

Ha yeah crotch holder isn't ideal, poor Dude. I have putty under his sandals and in 4 points under the base as well as on his glasses, doobie, and bowling bag. I'll report back if he decides to take a nose dive.

Random but TBL mod related question...

Anyone know of a place, perhaps in Seattle / WA state, or even an online service that will do ad hoc "pad printing" onto a pinball?

I have a couple colored, kevlar coated 'glo-balls' that I want to make look like actual Brunswick bowling balls (for use as the TBL alley ball of course).

I'm told from another company who does laser etching that such a process wouldn't work. They advised "pad printing" instead. So I'm just trying to find a place I could pay to send the 2 glo-balls to to pad print a logo + finger holes in white. I have a vector images. I've looked into getting custom stencils made from them which I could then use to paint the balls myself. However, given how small the printed 'images' would need to be (like 0.5 inches), I think that would be riddled with human error in the end. Plus a clearcoat would need to be applied I think. I know I could spend like $300+ to buy a manual pad printer and DIY, but just want these 2 balls painted/printed. Appreciate any insight!

Thanks for the tip, looks interesting! However, like I mentioned I already have 2 colored "glo-balls" So what I'm looking for is help with applying the white Brunswick logo + pseudo-finger holes images onto their surface.

You can't use those keychain balls as a replacement ball for the bowling alley since they're not pinballs, right? I'm not trying to break my TBL. Plus I don't have printer that prints white ink. Even if I could, trying a sticker would be a bad option IMO. It would potentially peel off and become a break to the mechanics.

Just played 2 quick games on 1.00 and I'm blown away to say the least. From new callouts + music, to new video clips, to tons of perks, to the new bowling challenges + scorecard, to Nihilist mode changes, to changing how achievements are earned, to the changes to the high score table... EVERYTHING all around is an absolutely tremendous improvement! Congrats Barry, Koen, Rens and all at DP for such an incredible job! You guys NAILED it! I can't wait to discover even more as I continue to play and progress. Just amazing... THANK YOU!!!

Assuming by "capture" you're trying to output the game's audio to an external system? If so...
Buy this: https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/all-other-systems-subwoofer-kits/products/pinsub-multi-system-stereo
Then read this if you want to see how I have things set up: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-i-set-up-the-perfect-audio-experience-for-my-small-gameroom

Is the dude on the toilet figure available to buy somewhere? Or was that some private collector's custom job?

Quick ask: Can anyone who's recently gotten their TBL whose game is on the latest 1.10 code and hasn't messed with any sound/music/volume settings please let me know what all 4 sound settings stock values are? The settings UI doesn't let one know which value(s) are the default.

I'm looking for these 4 setting values found in the SOUND menu:
MASTER
MUSIC
SFX
VOICE

Thanks!

Got cpr9999 's amazing Hollywood Lanes sign the other day. Looks fantastic! However, being the nit-picky guy I am (and probably due to my bad eyes LOL), I felt it was a bit too bright in my game room setup as I couldn't really make out the letters. He gave me a great idea to install an inline LED dimmer. There are a bunch of different types out there, all very inexpensive. I went with this little guy which comes with a remote control: "12V Mini Controller Inline Dimmer with RF Wireless Remote for LED Strip Light" ebay.com link: itm

It definitely did the trick to dial in the brightness I wanted and was super easy to install. Just splice it inline. Plus it has some other cool fade/flicker modes you can leverage with speed control. I tried taking a video but it doesn't look right on camera. Anyway, it brings an additional, personal customization ability to the mod! Props to cpr9999 for yet another high quality TBL mod and expert advice!

I believe my order back in 2021 was the last stock they had. I don't want to speak for them, but I'm pretty sure they stopped making them b/c of lack of demand and didn't want to get into copyright issues with the logos themselves. This is why I created this topic (since mine came with very terrible logo representations): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pad-printing-images-onto-pinballs-and-other-objects

I will say that theirs have a far less chance of breakage but when it comes down to the visual aspect aka DP's very awesome logo print + newfound way of the limiters to avoid breakage, I've decided to keep my DP ones in game. One day I would like to get the logos fixed on my Mod Couple set and install all 10 of those instead, but for now they are just standby replacements if another one of my DP pins breaks.

I had this happen multiple times. That's why nowadays I have an "extra", regular pinball right in that spot where yours jumped to. I also have those 2 plastic ball mods in the same placement as yours. Putting an extra, regular pinball in the exact place where yours jumped to has made it so anytime a ball flies over there it makes its way back to the playfield.

Chiming in on the Toilet mod. I just got mine today, installed it and played a few times. Here's my feedback that I hope is helpful to others.

PROs:

• Yes its expensive but the craftmanship, build quality, and attention to detail, just like all of Lior's mods is incredible. While I was on the fence about the price, I know a lot of R&D goes into any mod he creates and everything is hand painted even to this day AFAIK.
• The packaging/box albeit unnecessary IMO is a nice touch.
• It fits right where it's supposed to (with some caveats below).
• IMO it does complement the playfield much better than the stock plastic + light

CONs / constructive criticisms:

• Didn't come with one of those cool certificates of authenticity, edition numbered cards like Lior does for other mods. That would've been a nice touch but again just an accoutrement I assumed would be included.
• Didn't come with installation instructions and I couldn't find any video or PDF online. You might laugh at me b/c it is a far more straightforward install than many other mods out there. I just wasn't sure about a few things and figured there should be an instruction sheet or something online.
• The new light from the toilet does take some getting used do. Lior did a great job of "clouding" the light but it is most definitely white, whereas most of the lights/leds in the TBL are colored in some way.
• The LED board attaches to the mod with sticky tape. Unsure why there aren't holes instead to use the existing stock screws. Since I applied my plastic protector underneath, I'm not worried about it but I do feel like over time with heat and whatnot that the sticky tape could come loose.
• I agree with the concern raised by titanpenguin about it blocking view of the Maude lights. But for me, it only blocks the "U" on the right when I'm standing normally. I can see all others just fine. I just have to lean forward slightly to see the "U" when I need to. I'm 5'9" if that helps to know.

INSTALLATION (Based on any product photos I could find online since no instructions were included -- sorry I didn't take any photos of the process):

• In general, even without instructions its a fairly intuitive install.
• It appears you do definitely remove the stock, blue plastic.
• I "think" you also discard the stock orange light plastic since it doesn't seem to fit into the underside of the toilet mold so I took it out of the mix.
• Expected orientation of the LED board was unclear. Looks like it will attach in either direction and in the end probably doesn't matter, I just didn't know so I guessed.
• I have a plastic protector for the original blue plastic. I wanted to keep that in place under the mod base (to equally protect it) which I did. However, keeping that made the front left nut unable to screw all the way down to it's "lock". I have concerns that nasty hit could pop it off and possibly break the mod mold. Hopefully not!

For Lior's toilet mod, the bright white was driving me insane so I did what Capn12 suggested ^^^. You can get way more mylar sheets than you need off of amazon, but it's only $7 for the set (use the extras for other art projects I suppose) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZLQY14B
I simply cut a 1" piece from the yellow one, crumpled it up and shoved it into the bottom of the toilet. There's probably a more elegant way to add the mylar but this worked for me and I don't think it's going to drop out of the bottom. Now my toilet glows a more subtle yellow vs. bright white (and yes, even though I've crumpled the mylar, the yellow/orange-ish illumination glows evenly due to the cloudy coating of the toilet bowl mod itself).
toilet mod with mylar_small.jpg