and a owners club thread:
the zip tie was the least important thing to get upgraded from factory. what people would want to ask is if the latest dude ramp diverter and improvements to bowling alley launcher guide (the orange piece) are in or not.
i guess for those that are getting games.. assuming this batch was made similarly, may want to have a look at the DP forums... frozen in time but for a brief moment people were talking about tweaks and dialing the games in:
would think the majority of that stuff would still apply, though these were built later so maybe some stuff taken care of
ill pm the link i have to people that pm me until theres something more official.. i think its tied to my email address so dont want to post it here
Quoted from VividPsychosis:
.48 is a big update! Just curious. If we were to open a fund, would it be possible to contact the coder to have him provide us with an even newer code update he could create? I mean even 10 bucks a person time 90 is 900 bucks. Or 20 a person is 1800.... seems like people would kill for it.
id wait till DP is totally out of business before getting into all that. also, legal issues. also, software engineers are highly paid
Quoted from VividPsychosis:
Anyone else that just got a game, have their car mech come out all shaky like? Not smooth? Anyone know a fix for this? Do I need to oil or lube a gear or something?
mine shakes as well.. i tried adjusting stuff (stepper mount has some room to raise/lower car if i recall), never really got it smooth as butter. I've just left it alone / it's still working years later. If you find a solution, please let me know. if there was a way to adjust the microstepping on the motor itself i bet it could be fixed that way but i haven't digged into it / didn't bother me THAT much
ok so beyond the 'fix' with the zip tie.. other things i did (just looked at my emails with barry)
Alright, so I pushed in the 3 proc boards, and actually loosened a nut on one of the smaller boards (the one on the right if facing a flipped up playfield) since the board was being bowed by the nut being overly cranked down. Attached pic but prob hard to see it from the angle.
On the p3-roc board, bottom left , that white connector going into a few of the header pins def has a lot of play.
this mounting situation on the big pcb is not ideal.. especially the power pins (the bottom left area). i think in addition to what i wrote to barry, i eventually very carefully unplugged the p-roc from the main pcb and very slightly bent the power pins so they had better contact with the receiver end when the board was plugged in. but you have to be very careful to not bend the pins when unplugging it since theres a lot of pins / pulling the board off evenly is challenging.
and yeah, make sure some gorilla didn't overtighten any of the boards so they are now bowing.
good news is ive never had to go back in there and do it again or had p-roc not found errors
ive cloned mine but havent tried using it yet so may be in for a bad surprise some day lol.
Quoted from okgrak:
Why would you need to match the power supply exactly? Isn’t this just a standard PC power supply?
yeah, of all the parts, i wouldn't worry about this one being hard to replace. ASRock computer would be the first thing as they are already rare.
I guess the good thing is if they start making more games, unless they bought 500 ASRock's , they will have to support a newer board eventually
Quoted from okgrak:
Has anyone tried to boot this with an external monitor attached
there already is an external monitor attached, the LCD display. if you have keyboard attached and hit escape a bunch of times as its booting up you will get the ubuntu desktop. and can navigate around. i seem to recall whatever password was there was easily guessable.. but that was 2 years ago i was playing around and forgot.
it was something easy like 'dp' i think.. like literally my first guess when prompted for password.
yep that's a known issue and the fix is indeed covered by the provided link.. though at one time Barry was looking into fixing it properly but can take care of it with that link
an easy thing to check is whether or not the stepper is well terminated in the plug. a poor connection to one of the stepper motor wires causes all kinds of weird issues given how they work.
i was getting weird stuff and just used a flat head to help better terminate the IDC plug. never had a problem since
dts is having similar issue so may want to share notes in case thats not it
taking the roof off the building is easy and can see what you're dealing with for the switches
the mechanism uses the parking spot targets to register car hits. i forgot if its the inner or outer one. i just adjusted till it worked well.. no false car hits, actual car hits are registered and the thing stops with confidence.. i.e., it opens till it sets off one of the switches.
access from inside the building like i said. your question about opening further isn't a thing as it opens until it sets off one of those switches.. it uses them as a limit switch. so, its as wide as possible always.
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