Brand new owner and still unboxing and setting things up. Stupid question I need help with…

Taking the back glass off, I unplugged that clip so I could set the glass aside.

Now looking at where I think it was plugged in, there are EIGHT male posts but the backlight is a female FOUR. Does it just plug into the right four or the left four, and the other open four is to power some accessory etc?

Hopefully my question makes sense or else I’ll send a pic.

Thanks

Cool thank you. Also responding to your email now, too.

Mine arrived yesterday and came with only those top 3

New owner as of yesterday’s delivery! (Order placed with CT almost exactly 1 year prior).

Some questions/comments:

- truly impressed with the quality of the build, wiring, components, etc etc. Little touches are done right.

- the sound is the best I’ve heard come from a pinball machine. I have FF kits on some of mine and they don’t sound this good. Not sure if the game has or will have EQ adjustment options, but I wouldn’t touch it at all…it sounds perfect with filling bass, clear mids and crisp highs. Great for music and voice

- Question regarding the flippers. This is my first game where If you tap the flipper button really fast and light (like trying to delicately get a ball trap, etc), the flipper won’t actually do that. It’ll just stay fully up. Is that normal? Wasn’t sure if these are opto flippers and that has something to do with it?

- another question…why is bonus always seemingly 6,900?

Interesting. So this “new” style is on machines like mine that I got Thursday? Googling other pictures and I can’t tell what’s different about it than the older/other version.

I thought it was a standard Williams bar. Just for kicks to test my theory I swapped it with my Space Station and they fit just fine.

Sorry for the silly question…how does the machine know the date and time? I see it shows when I started playing it, within the Audits menu, but I don’t see any place within the menu where I had to set the date and time, or where you can adjust it.

If it were Wi-Fi connected at this point, I’d totally understand, but since it’s not, I’m not seeing how it knows.

Noticed my Lock green light was flashing once (failed to hit it). What did that mean?

Thanks Rensh,

I do have that and read up on it. Sorry if I’m missing it but I don’t see anything about the Lock green light flashing. I see info about the rug inserts, various arrows, nihilists etc flashing but not the green lock target.

Adding to that, is the subway itself the same, just with the foam which I assume we can order? Or is it a deeper subway to accommodate the foam.

For the lower bowling ramp, is that even swappable, or is it riveted in and not really a feasible DIY?

Thanks Rensh for all of the helpful answers!

Out of curiosity, can you tell us if the foam addition to the subway is to quiet it down and not have it “clunk” as it goes along, or is it for longevity of the actual metal or pinballs, to avoid wear?

Thanks again!

This keeps happening to me. Sort of funny but not. Lol. Shame there isn’t something there on the playfield to stop this from happening.

I wonder if my Brunswick balls weren’t there, would that airball roll down off the bowling trough and across the plastic and down into the Z outlane?

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Yeah I might have to do the same. Do you use the adhesive dots they come with? They sucked for me. Wouldn’t stick to anything but my finger and ended up a ball of gunk that barely sticks. When I have the playfield vertical for more than a minute they come plunking down lol

Does it seem correct that the Donny loop is a 100% SDTM drain every time, unless I hold the right flipper so it just clips the tip of it? If I don’t press a flipper it’s dead every single time.

Wow! I’ve been googling for something like a shallow ramp shape with adhesive but this is awesome. Interesting that the description acts like the no deflection style only protects the the ball from the edge of the metal while the deflection one changes the path from SDTM. Might just get both styles and check them out. Thanks!

I’m concerned about the bare plastic on the left side of the Dude ramp, taking full force balls just to that inside corner in front of the opto. Curious if DP has ever considered a metal reinforcement like stern figured out that they needed on AC⚡️DC when those ramps cracked over time.

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Oh, I found it interesting that when investigating my machine that was delivered last Thursday, I DO have the updated bowling chute arms (lower) and the white plastic protection pieces on the top of it, BUT, I do NOT have the new padding in the subway.

The problem is, 5-10 years from now, we’ll out of warranty, when the plastic begins to get a bit more brittle and tired, it can be prone to cracking. AC⚡️DC ramps didn’t crack right away, it took a while for the problem to become apparent and only then did the Vault edition add the protection. I’ve seen a ton of original AC⚡️DC machines with destroyed ramp entrances. I’m happy knowing my armored vault edition will never have that happen.

Regarding need for cliffy’s and armor in a home game…in general I think some of the cliffy bits are overkill, but the main ones like the ball launch chute will show wear within 100 games and aren’t a bad addition at all. Especially on a game this expensive, I don’t mind protecting it in the high risk spots.

One thing I found today when inspecting the machine more was that the two screws holding ramp the Dude Multiball chute we’re horribly installed and easily going to scuff the ball and also make the shot harder to make it that last little bit.

The nuts on the bottom are 5.5mm and it isn’t super fun reaching under that area while loosening the screws to realign them.

Way better now, but honestly they need to modify the design of the screw holes on the ramps to be a counter-sink design, so the screws sit flat. Not good for game play, much less scuffing balls that then tear up a rare playfield.

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Tonight’s improvements:

- hot glued the ribbon cable in the MPF
- hot glued the mod couple mini bowling balls
- added CPR9999’s power harness and Hollywood Star Lanes sign.

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Couple of items worked on last evening…

- Donny loop shot “buffer” piece that nudges the Maude spinner side of the ramp out a hair, directing the ball to the front 1/2 of the left flipper consistently, rather than the front 1/8 tip of the right flipper, or SDTM.

I am loving it. It also protects the straight on shots to the square cut metal guide. I noticed one round indentation on mine as I was doing this…evidence of a head on violent collision that isn’t good for the metal guide or the ball.

I also purchased the kick-out version of the item, which bumps the shot even FARTHER over to the left, likely lower 1/3 of the left flipper I’d guess. For now I’m happy with the milder one.

Of note: while I highly recommend this mod, it did require a bit of cutting to make it work well for me. As it came, it inhibited the motion of the rightmost nihilist Target and it wouldn’t be enjoyable. I had to cut out a tiny square from the piece to allow full motion of the nihilist Target. Works like a charm now.

- Black bowling ball pinball
Love this! Looks cool down on the lane.

- Trough Light
To me the area below the flippers seemed dark and dingy to me. I had a spare warm-white 6v trough kit from Comet. The really nice kind with the adjustable brightness and their quick connects.

The harness from cpr9999 works perfectly for the Comet kit because you can get a pigtail right along with his harness that uses the Z -> mini connection that Comet uses.

Plugged the pigtail into a 5v plug (again this is a 6v LED strip), and extended the wire from Comet and rain it tidily up to the trough.

No concerns about 5v now being enough juice. I actually turned the light DOWN about 20% to better match the even glow intensity of the rest of the GI light. I’m happy and it looks like it should come this way.

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Two questions I couldn’t find answers to in the manual

How is bonus multiplier increased, aside from Mystery Award?

What is the final Dude Ramp shot worth in Super Jackpot (the shot that lights the award light)? I didn’t have time to look up when. I hit it.

I mean the total bonus multiplier, not increasing an individual character’s multiplier. If you get a 2x from Mystery, for example, it multiplies your whole bonus at the end of the ball.

Oh wow. I thought you meant that completing any character’s letters a second time increases that specific character’s multiball jackpot shot x2.

Interesting. So it’s only Maude that controls the total jackpot X. I’ll have to pay attention. I think sometimes I have probably rolled the Maude letters 3 times and then gotten the scoop Mystery Bonus X, so maybe I’ve gotten 3X or 4x.

Thank you Rens!

Can we ask one more favor and can you put a picture or two up of a side profile of the foam so we can tell about how thick it is, or maybe measure the thickness? It looks far thinner than the typical stand-up target foam backing. Also how is the density? Is it really soft or is it almost rubber-like in firmness?

Maybe if someone in this group can find a readily available source for a good material, then can share it here.

Which one of those is celfoam, 2” wide X 1/32” thick that isn’t $60+ shipped?

Remembered I used to have an awesome neighbor who worked for a manufacturer of huge spools of various foam and rubber materials, and he would offer me scraps of handy stuff every now and then. Then I remembered I have a small roll of 3M adhesive backed rubber in 5” wide by 1/32” thick.

It’s not celfoam so it likely bounces more than what Rens / DP is using, but it’s strong as hell and the adhesive is great.

I’m going to make an in depth post about it over on the maintenance thread. I know I went overboard with the surface areas covered, but honestly I actually only covered the areas that were already showing wear on my 2 week old game. Lots of the walls of the subway get banged and scuffed. Notice all the pics of the bare metal ramps below with some sort of mark already.

Sadly I don’t have any part # or detailed info of what this 3M product is. It is also about 15 years old, so who knows what’s what anymore with what they make.

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Yes and no, I think.

Part of what drove me nuts was the clanging and clonking of the ball down the metal. The rubber really quiets it down. I wouldn't be surprised if the mylar wore eventually with the ball flying down metal to metal on a very concentrated spot? Also, in the extreme case of the machines that had their subway joints break (some of the perforated joints like the main diagonal landing spots are simply not that strong), the mylar wouldn't deaden the blow time after time like the rubber or foam would.

Mylar can be a small pain in the butt to lay well if you don't really take time and care. No offense to those who've done it, but I've seen pics on here of some really lumpy and creased mylar on the subway, and that would drive me nuts lol

That said, Mylar is certainly going to be better than the bare metal. As I mentioned, I used that on the middle long section where there simply isn't space for the rubber.

I appreciate the comment, but unfortunately not likely to happen. This rubber is TOUGH and it takes 5-6 forceful blade cuts to get through each one, and it took me 4 hours to do it right. Granted if I bothered to make a template that didn't get hacked up, it would save an hour or two.

If someone had a similar material and a sort of machine that could press-cut the pieces, that would be the way to go.

Good question. Yes, it actually does slow it down. In some of the modes (i.e. car mode when its traveling all the way down the longest path) there is about a 1/2 second delay of the video screen changing and then the clip starting, compared to the bare metal ramp. It's funny how I mentally got used to the timing of the game the way it was, and my heart jumped a few times when I was playing with the rubberized ramp, thinking "oh no did the game just lock up!?" because it takes slightly longer for the ball to reach the bottom now.

That said, as I was doing all the work on it and testing the fit and finish last night, I noticed that some of my balls in my TWO WEEK OLD game literally have tiny rust spots on them. I don't quite understand that, and I've used crappy Stern stock balls at times in the past and had them get scraped and scratched and nasty, but these literally had little pits of rust. So either the game is beating the hell out of the balls or some that I got in my batch are junk and need to be replaced.

Also related to potential ball wear, I posted a week or so ago how it is important to go through the game in detail and inspect the ramps, and specifically the screws attaching the ramps to the various playfield areas. Several of mine were poorly installed at the factory and sticking way up or angled so that the ball would get severe damage if I didn't redo them and try to flush and level them.

With how I have the game tuned up now, I think my only real risks of ball wear are the VUK, the lower scoop and the upper scoop by the garage. I wish DP used bent-formed curved metal like Stern rather than whatever they do with the "corrugated" metal that "bends" using 20+ angled bends. It has to be hell on the balls, and mylar lays like crap across that multi-angled curve.

I know this post is about a month old, but I am still making my way through it, reading from page 1.

I am chiming in to say that even with my new build, I have a TON of airballs off of the two white lock/light targets on either side of the dude ramp. Super annoying how often the ball gets stuck in the actual bowling ball return trough accessory on the left of the playfield. It's painfully ironic lol.

I did turn down flipper power two notches but it still happens often enough. Happened again last night.

hmm. It’s all perfectly flush on the surface. It’s when the ball slams into the Light Lovk targets and off of the corner of the Dude ramp that it’ll fly.

Also CaptainNeo see the material I used. Pure dense thin rubber and won't mat down or sink in like foam

Earlier in the thread, it was shown that the metal ramp bends are weak and can (and did) break since the perforation lets it bend very slightly each time it gets dropped onto. This improvement deadens the blow and reduces the impact force.

Also, most other manufacturers do not use metal ramps or subways with a coarse finish like these. If they were polished or at least typical in their finish, it wouldn’t be as much of a concern, but these will definitely scuff the balls more than a normal metal ramp.

No issues whatsoever with the optos and the black ball. I thought the pin “hits” were determined by the position of the chute at the time of release. Ie a calculated average of hits based on where the ball is, in theory, heading. That’s why we get physically hit pins sometimes that don’t “drop”

Here is a picture of my Light and Lock stand ups. I think I see why I get lots of sailing airballs with my right Lock one. Looks how it’s angled farther back so it’s upwards. Specifically the thick metal backing part, not necessarily the face itself.

This is on a very recent build within the past few weeks.

Not sure if I should try and bend it from the top, or remove and try to bend it, or trash it and try a new one that is maybe stronger.

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Look in the maintenance thread. Just posted about it the other day. Lower flipper strength a setting it two and then remove the targets and bend the back structure piece down. Still airballs but very low and not detrimental at all.

Bend the back brace of the targets to angle down 10°. It’s brilliant after.

Well, I did it boys, I feel like I won some major award just getting THREE achievement lights lit! LOL. First time I’ve ever gotten 3.

Sadly wasn’t even close on rug, car or mark it’s.

Also in unrelated news, I HIGHLY recommend getting some Ninja balls in this machine. They look glorious on the gorgeous lighting and really shine far better than the stockers.

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Before replacing, I would recommend just adjusting the bend on targets in newer machines. Mine is new so it has the beefier targets, but Lock and Light still needed to be angled down about 10° down (past perfectly vertical) and now it works perfectly except a few wild balls that hit the corner of the ramp and the target at the same time. And direct contact to the targets is fine now and I’ve had 0 balls get stuck up in the Brunswick return in the weeks since I did that. It used to happen almost daily.

Oh absolutely remove them before tweaking. Takes 2 minutes tops. Love the individual Z clips

You want the Pre Order Thread. Read that and it has all the info you want.

Also the deposit is refundable so it’s not blown.

Mine was a strange left to right adjustment, not up and down. I posted details wheee I had to remove the switch and file the thread hole drill burrs off on the metal bracket to align it.

KoenHeltzel

Merry Christmas and thanks for the update, man!

Understanding that you can’t make 100% promises, is there a chance that either intermediate updates or the 1.0 update will enable Wi-Fi for future updates? Would be so cool just to have it detect and alert of new software and prompt to update, rather than doing the computer / USB dance!

Interesting. I thought there was a TP Link usb in the top area of the board and it was ready to go but not activated in the current code.

Meaning the hardware has the capability and it’s a coding update?

Just banged out 39.5M, which I know is a normal day for Rensh but for me is pretty good

Anyway, have a few problems and bugs from the game.

Mechanically, ball didn’t eject to shooter lane twice. Kept yelling “BALL SAVED BALL SAVED” over and over. Eventually after 20 seconds it kicked out a ball.

Code wise, I was in character multiball and had trampoline lit. Drained down the left outlane, and the trampoline light went out and the ball just drained. No kick.

yes. Zero reason to mess with it.

Had this happen a couple of times now but on a great game and extra ball today, it annoyed me enough that I want to add it to the official bug log tomorrow…

Ball whipped super fast down the left out lane with Trampoline lit. Too fast for the solenoid to activate from the switch and kick the ball back, so it drained.

Should be able to code it so that if there’s a single ball in play, and the left outlane switch is triggered while trampoline is lit, and then it drains in the trough within 1 second, that it’s ejects a new ball from the shooter lane.

Gets dicey doing that in a multiball (could result in bonus balls), but should work in single ball.

Yeah aren’t they still available to order through CT for $600? This isn’t a Black Knight topper situation, Dude!

The problem is that he needs the actual game to make a template for them. He said he’d do them if he could get his hands on one.

I spoke with Barry and he was super kind about trying to accommodate and even offered to send Cliff a set of the ramps. However, Cliff needs the whole game so he can see what other bits will or won’t interfere with the pieces, where they can screw in, etc etc. So, if someone near him can invite him over, it could solve it for all of us.

I was cracking up reading this article the other day. Apparently Sam Elliott didn’t heed the advice that he gave to the Dude there in that quote!!

https://apple.news/A1x_n0aD4SXyUUdjTRuVu_A

I think this was asked just one page back.

OVER THE LINE!

The thread has made it to page 0.69!

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Pretty sure it’s to manually block balls from falling out when raising the field? I never chance it and simply remove the,

That doesn’t seem right at all that the ball pushes the held flipper back down. Something is wrong about that. Even if the force is too high from the VUK. FYI I believe you can adjust all kick strengths in the menu.

Just adjust the pressure switch so it contacts with the ball weight on it. Easy fix. Open it up and go into switch test mode and play around with it until the contacts are a bit closer together

Sorry I’m drawing a blank, can someone please remind me how the final total bonus multiplier is increased (ie 2x, 3x etc)? I skimmed the manual again and only see info about the shot multipliers like bowling balls and White Russians.

Yes, Maude is correct. I forgot about that. Thanks.

Lots more to discuss about this in the near future, as Rens mentioned. Exciting times for TBL

That would really break up the flow of the game. It is definitely not a grind. Once things are released I can certainly elaborate.

As one point of data, I have a Prem Sword of Rage and a Lebowski. The sword of rage is UNPLAYABLE without the fans after 30 minutes of constant play. Even WITH the fans it’s a struggle for the right flipper to maintain enough power.
For Lebowski, I’ve never had a single
Performance issue after hours of constant play. Something about it or the coil style or something is built better.

Regardless, cooling can’t hurt and the low temps are a major change!

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/big-lebowski/scores

Without giving anything else away on top of what Rens is sharing, I hope it’s ok for me to say that having tested some code between the public and 1.0 versions, that this is massively game changing in an entirely positive way.

More to come when I can talk about what exactly I’ve experienced, but suffice it to say, game flow is way up, game times are way up, and scores are now going to be big.

This update is incredible work from Koen.

Since the big news is out, I am excited to share a bit more about what we can expect with the new software, having done some testing over the past months.

This will revolutionize the gameplay, taking it from a really fun game to an AMAZINGLY coded game. The flow of the game is also immensely improved, as well as average play time.

The new quotes and clips, "mini" multiball bonuses with the new characters, looping the mini playfield to multiply-boost jackpot shots, improved Nihilist mode, mini-rewards for the bowling balls achieved, and the ten frame game of bowling going on while you play (in addition to new bowling skill shot types) are just some off the top of my head that are MASSIVE improvements.

Heck, even the loading intro screen is improved with the gutterballs animation!

One of my favorite things is the Shabbos comment from Walter when you select him for bowling on Saturday. One thing I'm not sure if it was addressed or not is, that the CPU time is set for Netherlands, so sometimes I'll be playing on a Saturday night here and it's already Sunday according to the CPU. Would be cool if we could adjust that.

I left all of the difficulty settings completely stock, and while before it was super difficult to achieve all 5 modes (I had only ever gotten 4), now it is really not that hard. I can do it once about every 5-10 games. The key is the add-a-ball by adding new characters DURING a character multiball. Also lots of ways to score extra balls now with Mystery Level 3 containing a chance.

Game times for me went from an average of 5-10 minutes now to about 20-45 minutes. On my best games, I'm actually a bit mentally and physically tired after the stress of the Wizard Mode and tensing up for that long. The only other game that's done that to me is Black Knight Sword of Rage where I can get a 45 minute intense game going.

Scores will also skyrocket, appropriately given the multiballs, extra balls, mini bonuses, etc.

It's a whole new game, only in good ways.

Honestly what Koen has done for us here puts to shame any updates I have gotten from Stern for my machines over the last 5+ years. Just in another league.

Excited for any future additions and hopefully the Live play mode and internet updates, etc.

Rensh or Koen, any way to easily reset high scores? I don’t want to delete profiles one by one and I don’t want to factory reset. Should be an option somewhere, right?

My scores carried over from beta 0.92 and I’d rather start clean.

Worst case, if I have the stored version of 0.52 install and then tell it to reinstall 1.0, will that do it (from the hard drive in the game, not the usb drive)?

Looks like this might lead to the balls directly hitting or glazing off of the sharp angled end of the guide rail. The 3d printed piece on Etsy covers the end as well as nudges the guide out, so you don’t trash the pinballs from hitting the sharp edge.

This is a good idea. Maybe worth submitting on the Dutch page for future code tweaks?

I think I’d disagree here, since the intent of a ball save is to avoid a huge bummer man, if it bounces some weird way and dumps an out lane or goes SDTM right after entering the play field…that’s just no fun. Could be nice if players had the same on-play field grace period no matter which of the three launch shots they go for (and accomplish)

I assume you’ve gone bowling in the last 21 games?

You know the upper flipper only works when the ball is up there, correct?

We haven’t heard if it was a 21 game miss of bowling (which is amazing, if so…it’s like a 75% skill shot, per ball)

I don’t have it handy but I did search Etsy for it and it came up as Unavailable/Out of stock. Might want to contact the guy and see if he can make a run, since the thing works great.

Search for my post in the Lebowski thread on fixing the subway ramps right with high density thin adhesive backed rubber. Works silently now and no ball scratches.

Question for you guys who understand SDD’s and who have the alternate music. ( jyeakley and others)

I am looking to over complicate a non-existent problem with a technical solution

Would it be possible to add a SATA SDD splitter like this one below and have both the original music drive AND the alternate music drive installed (thinking zip ties or double side tape or something). That way you could instantly choose which style of music you want.

Hard Drive Power Switch Module for 2.5 inch / 3.5 inch SATA HDD/SSD, 4-Way Hard Drive Power Independent Switch Controller with TVS Protection https://a.co/d/eBnE6kI

Not being really computer tech savvy, my initial questions are:

1) would this work?

2) why does this splitter have TWO input power supply spots? The details imply that it’s for stability and also that a normal PC setup would have those two input wires to plug into the splitter. Obviously we only have the one, going into the Jackie Treehorn SSD in there. Is this still feasible for the splitter?

3) I assume SATA extension cables are out there so we could mount the switch nicely right inside the coin door and run the wires up and to the backbox?

4) If all of the above are feasible, what happens if you accidentally have both pressed? I’d hope there is logic to say something like “boot 1 if both 1 and 2 are pressed”. Or else I don’t know what happens when you mash two Dude drives on at the same time!
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I’ve found it still moves over time on mine (with Donny can mod). I crank it right from underneath to the point where I am worried if I do it any more, and it stays in place pretty well but over 50 games or so it’ll still inch down. It’s a quick glass-down fix every month or so.

I was considering a spiked type of lock washer but if memory serves, there’s no space and it’s a tight fit between the board cutout to even get to that screw in the first place, underneath.

Oh that’s cool. Is there any way someone who doesn’t even understand what KSP is, much less how to use it, can use that keyboard in an easy idiot proof way to switch playlists from factory to altered?

Otherwise, I think mounting both SSD’s in the backbox and just switching cables from one to the other might be my easiest solution. It would be super easy if it weren’t for the mega heavy back glass and the darn light power cord that’s a pain to do with one hand.

Game is so good on 1.01. Tightened up some of the excessive scoring that was out there on 1.0.

Excited to see how 1.10 ties the room together even more!

Had a fun one tonight. Earned 4 extra balls. Sadly was 2 rug modes short of wizard

Bowling score of 188

Excited for the pinmonk fans. This game lasted 30+ minutes and the flips got a bit wheezy. Walter was a struggle.
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Yep mine are in the mail. I have no doubt it’ll fix them up a bunch. It fixed BKSOR about 80-90% and that game is way worse since the right flipper is used even way more than TBL, and those games can go 45 minutes if you play well.

Pinmonk kit has arrived. Will try and get to the install tomorrow.

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Ha, just came here to mention the callouts not working with the flipper buttons in 1.10

Merry Dudemas, all

Pooling and chipping on mine

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Unless it’s against the rules due to spoilers, can anyone explain the second phase of wizard mode? I just noticed I was hitting characters but the shots stayed lit, and I was bowling sometimes, and then eventually the flippers had more delay in firing.

Also not a true fix for the pooling/chipping but a possible solution…

It seems like 90+% of our issues are the lower left sling post. I’ve noticed that this post gets HAMMERED more than any other in the game. I’ve had to replace my sling rubber on the left because it gets so chewed at that spot where it wraps around the lower left post.

So, is there some sort of thin protective disc (ie a Cliffy of sorts) that can go under the star post and over the playfield that will protect the surface but not impact play?

Just an idea.

Yeah unfortunately people like me have had the bubble of paint under the post burst and it’s chipped away now.

Also maybe I’m incorrect but I feel like what we are dealing with is actually not pooling. Pooling to me is when stuff is applied before the clear coat is dried and it physically pools the clear up into a thicker depth around the post or whatever item.

What we are dealing with is more lifting or bubbling. It’s hollow under those raised parts. It will peel right off if you poke it or mess with it.

Appreciate all the discussion and links to potential solutions/preventions to the issue (which is not the Chinaman), however we might want to wait to hear later this month what Rensh has to say about a DP solution or plan of action.

BTW, mine is just as bad or worse than jyeakley 's pic above. I'm not touching my star post until there's a solution though, since mine is already flaked off and will get way worse as soon as I take the post off.

It's a bummer, man.

Worst case there are longer screws. Annoying but I’ve had to do that with a number of pins when adjusting things on posts

Curious what the real fix from DP will be before I go buying parts and randomly messing with it.

Found this today at a local toy shop. Not sure if I want to unbox it and find a spot for it in the game, or have it be a tiny topper lol

Even has the brand new window sticker on the driver’s side like in the movie!

IS THIS YOUR HOMEWORK, LARRY!?

They also sold the private investigator’s blue Beetle.
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I have decided to unbox it.

Wow, PERFECT size for this spot!

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There is still some confusion in here that this is clear coat pooling, rather than the printed design on the play field simply getting torn from the wood and chipped up.

Pooling clear is when the clear wasn’t set and hardened. Automotive clear, when applied thick as on various artwork or tables, etc can pool or unpool with heat applications.

This issue is the force of the star posts being hit separating poorly adhered artwork from the wood.

At first glance it may look like clear pooling, but it’s just the printed art bubbled off of the surface.

KoenHeltzel or Rensh any hints or teasers you can give on a rough timeline for a code tweak? Small things, but looking forward to getting the callouts back when pressing the flipper buttons in attract mode, and getting rid of the error message from the nonexistent switch! Thanks for all the awesome work on this game.

I had 3 in there but then air balls kept hitting them and knocking the hot glue loose and the balls would drain in the trough causing mayhem lol

Anything new on the playfield issue front?

At least on mine, it isn’t clear pooling. It’s shocks from slamming the lower post of the left sling that have ”shoved” the paint up around it and it’s loose and chipping. It’s not the clear that is simply bulged up from downward pressure. I’m sure I’m not the only one that has it like this and understands this is not your typical clear pooling. More of a non adherence of the painted layer.

Oh boy. What are you designing!?

Sorry. How did changing the switch from mechanical to opto solve the broken welds causing it to fire SDTM?

Ah now that makes sense. Enjoy! (Also I want a topper now! Lol)

If you can hear it then the volume is too low! . I understand the main “issue” is in attract mode. FWIW, when my BKSOR and TBL are both on, side by side, all I ever hear is the stern BSKOR fan whir up.