The Big Lebowski
Dutch Pinball, 2016You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cooked71.
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Just about to join this club. Was almost an OG Early Achiever but didn’t happen for whatever reason. Turned out to be fortunate, but TBL has remained in my most wanted list ever since. Like most, I’d all but lost hope it would ever happen.
In October, managed to squeeze a NIB into one of my Europe containers and it’s due to dock 27th December. Unboxed allot of games since TBL was released, but haven’t been as excited for any as I am for TBL.
Quoted from PinMonk:EXCEPT perhaps Toy Story 4 (it seems to be trouble free), which may have shown that he can solve the issue after 6 years of non-stop crap playfields.
Looks like JJP just moved the art from the posts which seems to work for Stern also. Be nice to know if Mirco changed anything on their end.
Even from here the quality is next level. Very high end. And packaging first class.
3EFC6B54-3569-43DA-89C4-427EFA7589F2 (resized).jpeg9F85D165-4747-4058-B3AF-D14DCBEAA86A (resized).jpegD7FB7F82-F33C-416D-9C89-4984E4B5A065 (resized).jpegFD2A47B2-3E85-440E-ACD9-CCC1FEE2CEB8 (resized).jpeg
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533CA510-64CD-4CD8-B947-5B5954543FA6 (resized).jpegOne word……wow! This is how you make a high end pinball machine.
286B3A81-5785-4D94-BB3F-B79E781E2B0C (resized).jpeg493D51EF-25D7-4B0C-BE02-CC64695F14FD (resized).jpeg638D7DCB-968D-4B52-BE4E-E0B114C766E8 (resized).jpeg95273BF8-77EB-4B45-9422-F8875133848E (resized).jpegDBCA168F-2765-4F3E-9EEC-03CF0E9EC0E5 (resized).jpegQuoted from CaptainNeo:the display only crowd is usually the LE buyer market.
Definitely be playing mine, if it wears it wears. It looks pretty solid - rubber backed. Likely I’ll get sick of it though - I move my games around a bit - could get annoying. Otherwise I’ll get a spare.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:rubber washers would work too, but I would fear the rubber fusing to the clearcoat. I've had rubber fuse to star posts before.
Firstly, those Titan washers are silicone, not rubber, and secondly, the recommendation is to firstly put Mylar rings down and the silicone ring on top. If there is any fusing, and I’ve never seen silicone fuse, it will be to the Mylar, not the clearcoat.
These playfields are the same as GNR and Wonka - no different from what I can tell. I've completely "pool proofed" both of those and this PF is no different. If you get in early you can protect it but it's a f*n pain in the ass. If you do it properly, it's hours of work before playing a game. I'm over it. Last time. These manufacturers need to stop supporting this sh*t.
Don’t get me wrong the game itself is fantastic, and overall build quality is extremely impressive. I’m just done with Mirco. The playfields look beautiful on first impression, but they will all eventually pool or chip around the posts unless protected. Companies like DP produce an exceptional game like TBL and Mirco’s product is not fit for purpose.
If Mirco can’t change his flawed manufacturing process, then DP at least need to change the art and move it from the contact points.
Quoted from Joost996me:Noticed a kit to prevent further damage in JJP GnR, also using Micro playfields
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/51-100GNR
Maybe we need this too on the TBL?
Quoted from PinMonk:Pinball life has that for much less:
https://www.pinballlife.com/jersey-jack-pinball-guns-n-roses-pinball-post-spacerprotector.html
Just to clarify you don’t need this kit for TBL. There’s a couple of those spike posts, but they’re the correct size and fit, I’m unlike many of the GNR ones. Also those Marco kits will be imperial and Tbl is all metric.
You will need the PinMonk Mylar rings though.
And the silicone washers - you can buy Titan, or the Pinball life ones are the same and cheaper.
You also should protect more than the star posts around the slings Imo. The posts up in the pop area will be problematic.
Quoted from Capn12:Hmm, ok....so say you had a brand new TBL coming in...within the next 2-4 weeks (in theory). Would you be looking at basically the Silicon star post protectors that PBL has, and anything else? I'd rather get the PF sorted BEFORE I start playing, since I already know it is potentially prone to the Mirco factor.
You want these washers for the Star posts (minimum 8 posts but get a few more): https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0069-00-70
And these for the top narrow posts near the pops and the 2 spike posts near the outlanes (10 I think):
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0070-00-70
You want some of PinMonk s Mylar rings.
You’ll need some metric tools:
- T10 and T15 driver bits
- 7mm hex driver
(Dp use mostly the one size fitting which is handy).
I’ll go though a bit more later, but those are the parts I’d start with.
There’s a heap of posts ( including star posts) near and under the upper Pf but they don’t get much (or any) impact so likely won’t be a problem.
Quoted from bonzo442:Some say put smaller metal washers some say 3/4” mylar rings from Titan which I already ordered. Should I just use smaller metal washers?
You need both the adhesive mylar ring which attaches to the playfield (from pinmonk), and then the silicone washer from Pinball Life or Titan. I wouldnt worry about the metal washer.
Quoted from Eagle14:I had really bad pooling on my Alien LV, but the artwork had not yet come up off the Playfield. I literally just pointed a hot hairdryer at the pooling and within a few seconds it flattened out the pooling to the point I couldn't see it. I then applied mylar and silicon washers to stop it happening again.
Agree that people need to be cautious with the vinyl iron approach. Can be a very aggressive heat.
This game hands down has the best theme integration of any game I’ve owned.
All in all the game feels like a blend of AFM and MM with a really nice upper and lower pf for good measure.
Gameplay is on the easy side. I know it’s predominantly a mode based game, but any scoring strategies for the current code?
And I know I keep saying it, but (Mirco aside), the build quality on this is fantastic. Up there with, maybe better than, CGC.
If you catch the Mirco stuff early, it’s fine, and no doubt the playfields look gorgeous, and will be ok if protected. I feel for those that already have issues and I hope DP comes to the party to help. Mirco’s product is simply not fit for purpose and something needs to change.
Quoted from ray-dude:I have my MPF off for the first time for some maintenance (cleaning, new titans, plastic protectors, etc) and I've got a question for those that have been down this road already
There is a star post back in the Maude rollovers that doesn't have a rubber ring on it. Looking in the manual, it doesn't call for a ring there either.
Given the location (balls whipping around orbits, etc) I would have expected a rubber there to protect the post and the metal edge right next to it.
Any feedback here from those that have taken their machines apart? Should a ring go there? (I'd love to avoid having to take things apart again)
[quoted image]
How hard was it to remove the upper pf?
Quoted from Flaverflav:«according to Mirco, Newer playfields are not infected » answer from Dutch Pinball on monday when i have to confirmer my order.
That's bullsh*t. I will never trust a word Mirco sais.
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:I just finished putting silicone spacers down for all the stars and post. Very little to notice around the slings, unfortunately there was pooling and a chip up in the bumper areas. My playfield is stamped july 15th 2022
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yep, pops area definitely needs attention as it did on GNR - it's not just slings as reported earlier.
Quoted from beltking:Dutch can you add silicon while making the pin? Not looking forward to taking everything apart to add rings. I’ll pay extra to do it during production.
And then they need to remove the art from all the contact posts. It's the only solution while Mirco continues to stick his head up his *ss and pretends to himself nothing is wrong.
I would be happy to buy a replacement spare pf at heavily reduced price, but only once this has been done.
Quoted from NC_Pin:So where are people seeing issues? is it just under the starposts in the pops? has anyone seen an issue under the posts in the outlanes?
Pops and slings. Outlane posts were slightly indented, but the posts are the correct size for the hole so unlikely to have the same issues like GNR. I still protected those regardless.
I also did the 2 high impact posts as they cop it. They’re well supported and already had washers but worth doing anyway:
59FD794A-89BF-4E78-BA9F-2F85ED3EDD6D (resized).jpeg9ACA4260-1B11-444C-A9C0-B02DB8CD0DDE (resized).jpegQuoted from JimB:If you want to see what John Turturro is up to lately check out Severance on Apple TV. That show would be a great pinball theme.[quoted image]
Fantastic series, but don’t think it would make a great pin. Can’t wait for the follow up season.
Quoted from PinballHaven:Hey gang, I’ve been working with Sonic to get the measurements done on his MRS switch fix for the scoop………installed the part today and it absolutely worked perfectly, two screws to remove and unplug the roller switch, re used the screws and it’s plug and play with the fitting pre-installed. Couldn’t be happier! Yes, the original screws are pretty long for this piece and one of mine didn’t want to go through fully so I will address that later (my game is a little hard to work on where it currently sits under a low ceiling beam).
Thank you Matt, love your work and innovation for these switches. Now to get my IMDN back alley installed and working…….
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Sonic strikes again! Seems like every new game I get now,
Sonic is there with the magic MRS solution to all mechanical switch shenanigans. Need to place another order for this fix as it’s just started playing up on line also. Wish they were generic so I could just order a dozen switches to have on hand.
Quoted from PinMonk:The vinyl repair iron heat seems to "set" the clear so it doesn't pool after that, for the treated area only. Others have reported success with a hair dryer, but I haven't tried this method. The vinyl iron makes more sense to me.
If you end up getting a pinmonk.com order and want me to get one of these irons for you to include with the shipment, let me know. I'll be happy to get one for you and you can just pay whatever it cost me and any shipping bump if the weight kicks it up.
Quoted from gumnut01:I have experienced this with Pirates and one other pin. I refuse to buy another Jjp because of the problems I had with pirates. Jjp are oblivious to it and don’t seem to care. Having just bought a TBL which has not arrived yet I find this deeply troubling.
The problem with rubber or silicone washers is 2 fold:
1) it just pushes the pooling out to the edge of the washer. It does not stop the pooling. It may stop chipping since it is a softer material which may soak up some of the vibration.
2) it raises the height of the star washer which then causes the ball to slip under and get caught inside the slings. To fix this you need to swap to double star posts. The bottom groove on the double star post is lower than a single. But, This changes the height of the post which means the wireform returns will be slightly higher at the ends and a bit slower.
All of this I reported to JJP with pirates and they did not respond.
I think the best fix is the small heat iron which some pinsiders have used to with success. I don’t know if it fixes it from now on. Problem is I cannot source one in Australia.
What is heartening and making me keep my TBL order is the attitude of people like yourself. Any problem can be solved. Looking forward to what solution arises.
He'll need to get a voltage transformer also.
You also have to be very careful - those irons get really hot and can do more damage than the OG problem.
IMO the silicone doesn't just push the pooling to the edge - they are softer than the clear, so that shouldn't happen. Plastic or metal washers on the other hand do exactly that which is why silicone is preferred. The silicone absorbs the vibrations and provides a protective layer. The silicone combined with the mylar is in my experience the best solution so far. If I were Dutch i'd also be putting the mylar rings down also.
During multiball I sometimes get a ball stuck at the back of the bowling alley and it won’t get kicked out, even during ball search. Before I get in there and take the alley apart anyone else know if it’s just a switch issue or something else? I can see it sitting there just behind the pins.
Added 15 months ago:Don’t worry, it’s just the switch. Of course the ball is always in the bowling alley lol. Forgot I put it in there originally. No need for ball search in bowling alley lol
Added 15 months ago:Don’t worry, it’s just the switch. Of course the ball is always in the bowling alley lol. Forgot I put it in there originally. No need for ball search in bowling alley lol
On further investigation it looks like a switch issue. I have a MRS on the way for that.
But I’m not sure why the ball is there in the first place since I wasn’t bowling, I was in multiball?
And should Dutch include that kicker in the ball search?
Added 15 months ago:Worked it out, see above.
Quoted from bonzo442:Take a look on page 35 lotta in & outs Lebowski maintenance thread I had same issue during multiball you’ll see the fix it’s not the switch.Sorry reading your post again you have a different issue altogether my bad
Thanks. Actually sounds like it may be the same issue. I’ll follow your tip in the other thread.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Can you elaborate a little bit, what washers did you do use, silicone (Titan), carbon fiber flat washers or? Did you have pooling already when you put them on?
Must be talking about the PETG plastic washers - carbon and silicon are not thick enough to have any meaningful effect on the height of the posts. And silicone is definitely not hard enough to push the clear to the edges.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:That's why there is a cancel option (when the saucer is lit for multiple actions). I always try to activate as many characters as possible before starting the character multiball.
Didn’t know that. Just from experience with MM, I’m always avoiding starting character multiball until I have most/all characters, but the ball sometimes just ends up in the saucer by accident. I assumed there was a benefit but didn’t know for sure.
What’s the cancel? Both button press?
Quoted from Rensh:It’s the launch button, shown right bottom corner lcd display. Do note that option is only available when you have also bowling or mark it zero lit at the saucer.
Also found at the earlier mentioned page 90 of the operational manual. Just take a spare 15 minutes to walk through the rules in the manual
What’s a manual?
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