i'm in the market for one if someone is selling in the midwest. Not interested in a prototype version. Must be production version. Routed is ok.

I have officially joined the group. I remember reading something about people having static in the right speaker. I also have that. What was the solution to fix that?

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it's the way we roll over here, aboard captain neo's

anyone else, getting ramp rejects from, "the Dude" ramp for lock? many times, mine makes it to the top and stops and comes back down. Not all the time, but I bet 50% of them are rejected. Looks like the plastic part of the ramp straddles the metal box entrance. Is there a way to improve this? Mine was just made from Dutch pinball. not even 2 weeks old.

And is there a way to adjust the backbox brightness?

so is there an adjustment for backbox brightness that i'm just not finding?

They need to add some mini wizard modes for completing all the bowling balls, or all 5 characters. Have a little mode or something for getting them done.

Is there any way to turn off the switch errors for the coin door controls? It's stupid that they show up as errors because they havn't been used after 20 games. Coin door switches should not count.

awesome TY. Can they also put an adjustment in there for Adjusting the brightness of the backglass. That would be great too.

yes, it's pretty bright. I set all my sterns to 10% brightness when playing. Even with invisiglass it has more glare than I like.

shipping is included to your door for the 12500

as did I when I got the game. Pins and the balls look great on it.

B/W used metal subways all the time and they didn't scratch balls. I don't see why this one would either. The problem with mylar is...once the ball drops on it enough, it creates worn out pit. Balls will get hung up in it. Bubbles will also hinder and stick balls. just like the sticker inside the ringmaster on CV. They removed it because balls kept getting stuck.

My ps does a clicking constantly when in attract mode. Like the click from an older car turn signal. I have #498 from fairly recent release as well. Same as the video above.

I can still play mine as of now. just clicks constantly in attract mode like a car turn signal. I'm sure it will burn out eventually, but as of right now it's playing fine.

yup, everyone on the shipment that came in june.

email sent to you guys regarding the clicking.

exactly.

for me, only a fast shot through donny will send it in the middle. I adjusted the level of the machine to help reduce that down. Never does it for maude. but maude always stops it for the pops.

I would think maude would stop it at the top so you can get the lanes, since maude is the lanes. Why would it let it orbit around?

DP sent me an Email to check my DIP switchs on the Proc board. Should be 11000011. Took mine off last night and mine was already set to 11000011. I even moved each switch once to make sure one wasn't working right.

true story, but after telling them I couldn't get it off. They told me how to wiggle it off from each corner. Working slowly. wasn't bad then. Getting it back on was no treat either.

awesome response. Great work guys. More responsive tech support than JJP. People around here, have not had such good success having to get things fixed from new JJP games. You guys are doing great.

my donny shot from left to right, will go down the middle on a perfect fast shot almost every time. Does not the other direction (I don't think. Maude usually stops it from right to left.

awesome. I'm going to try this out.

The left ramp design pisses me off a bit, because it would have been so easy to remedy in design. If that ramp would tapper down `1/2" after the diverter, and the scoop was 1/2" lower. The balls would never get rejected and any ball that made it past the diverter, would roll into the scoop. Would have fixed all of the ramp rejections. I'm almost tempted to make replacement scoops and new ramps with the new design. I think I can alter the current ramp with heat enough to get that 1/2" downward bend in it. I'd just have to remake the scoop slightly shorter.

the clip helps a little, but doesn't fix the problem completely. the clip makes rejections from about 80% to about 50%.

Remaking the angle of ramp and lowering the scoop, would solve the issue 100%.

Love it. I'll be interested in one if you make them.

Seems like you could make it flipable. so it would work either way. If you want deflection, turn it one way, and if you don't flip it the other way. then you have best of both worlds in one design.

I had a problem with my opto 2 went out the first week I had my game. Knew 100% it was the opto board. Received replacement opto boards in the mail today. Problem solved. Great customer service and communication all around.

love the progress on this. Looking great.

IJ < TBL

I just can't wait for them to add mini wizard modes for completing each section.

if this is the final release, does that mean, the bonus modes for finish sections will be in this release?

I like it... really puts the room together.

if your game was made before Nov 2020 you do not have the reinforced targets.

i'm making a clear plastic table tree for this spot to stop this from happening. Similar to the little white table you get with a pizza to stop the center of the box from crushing. Done in clear with feet, so if the ball goes up here, it just rolls over the top. I may make an edge on it, to redirect it back on the ramp.

everytime i've tried to do this for a drop point or trail. The foam wears out, and locks the ball up in that area. Once the foam wears a bit, it's going to stop the ball.

time will tell, but if wood and clearcoat can start to divot. I'd think this would as well. Hopefully it does not.

it doesn't . Many games have metal drop points or metal walls that stop the ball at the end of the ramp. That's not what scratches up your balls.

I can see it improving the impact and breaking of the metal ramp points.

this is correct.

that's every standup in pinball. GB and shadow have those side targets at the ramp entrance as well and you get airballs there too. If you want to angle the target down. bend the bracket so it has more of a forward angle.

it has unbreakable plastics now. I wouldn't worry to much. They slow down as you put more plays on it. Mine has about 600 plays on it so far, and it's getting less and less air balls

those are fuses? how can you tell the value of them if they are not marked? And where can we buy them to keep them on hand. Stern also use those surface mounted fuses?

how does D1A = 100 ohm? Trying to figure out the system for surface mounted components.

anyone else having more problems with the ball firing up to the bowling area with the new code? After the code update, I noticed my ball feeder has to fire like 7-10 times to get the ball to load. Before the code update it was only 1 maybe twice. Less power to the kicker now?

i'll investigate. Ty.

I have a newer TBL, so this seems like it doesn't really effect me.

I had this show up on my game the other day. Thought it was a one time glitch and it would go away once i turned the game off and back on. It is always there and i dont know how to get it off the display. And i found the thread with the link on doing something in the background and turning off the error messages. But i dont know how to get in the background with just a keyboard.

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I got rid of mine 5 times so far. I do not think it's gone for good. Took about 3 min for it to repop up.

I couldn't get into the software before to get rid of it fully before. I have the problem manual printed now and will dig deeper.

The fix they suggest doesnt work. When i hit escape. It just goes to a blank screen. I cannot type anything as there isnt a search bar to type the word terminal.

i tried typing terminal. That didn't work. I'll try the cnrl-alt-t method.

So where do i put that line? In tue apport folder? Or directory.? Im not understanding at all.

Last time i did programing was on an apple IIe in basic. And i know some dos commands

Well the ctrl alt T. Does not work either. I cant do much until i find out how to get into terminal

Yes. Eacape key works fine and ive tried two different keyboards. A usb one and a ps2 style

tried, didn't do shit. Nor does the cntl + alt + T

alt-tab does nothing also.

Ok mouse hooked up. Cursor moves around the black screen to top left and right corners. Only moves off the screen at the bottom. If i right click . i get a drop window to make folders or change background. So i changed the desktop wallpaper so i know im not stuck with a window in front of me. Its the desktop with nothing on it. Alt tab does nothing. Windows key does nothing. Alt cntl T does nothing. Trying to find terminal in the settings folder isnt happening.

Now i have desktop look like this.

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And my display resolution is this

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ok, trying it now.

what do you mean by the left of look?

also, should I change display, to only be on the main display and not multiple displays?

also, how do you close out the setting/display windows after you open them. They don't have an X in the corner like windows does.

Also, I change that setting to off. Still have nothing on the desktop. Even have it set to set icons to upper left corner. Still nothing. Changed display from all displays, to the main display.

still doesn't work. It's like the launch bar is turned off, and cannot be found on the desktop.

if you look at my display pic, it seem like that black bar on the left side of the display image that says 19". seems like its locked outside of the display. Is that suppose to be the launch bar?

but even if I can't see it, I should be able to use it. When you hide your task bar in windows, you can still use keys to activate things. I cannot activate any launch bar things at all. And i changed the display setting to be only the main monitor.

and turned off hidden Launch bar feature. It's like the launch bar is locked out from being used at all.

So the windows are suppose to have a closing x in the corner like microsoft windows have?

Seems to me that there is a setting to lock out users from being able to alter things in the code. This game is barely 7 months old. I should not have this severe of an issue.

my bowling window has been perfectly flat since i've owned the game. I'm wondering if something is in the track where the plastic sits? or the playfield warped slightly? did you take it out completely and inspect the ridge to make sure no debris landed in there?

set the plastic on a sheet of glass, and look at it from the side to see if any part is lifted off the glass. That will tell you where the problem is.

did you check the plugs from where the cabinet switches go to the boards?

so does that mean rings can be shipped out to keep pins from breaking? Actually a slightly longer coil stop, would do the same thing. Would keep the plunger from going in farther,which also would keep the pins from hitting the back bar.

maybe if we put a 7mm puck inside of the coil stop, like a plug. That would be easier to install, and more dependable. Where the rings my cut through and fall off over time. If we could find solid tubing the same dia as the coil stop, should wedge in good and not move around inside the sleeve.

what happened after 500? I have number 498. and you have seen my setup.

I also have the new software because they had to send me a new drive since my OS was all ass'd up.

does, The Dude, abide?

only 15 min to do them all? Didn't realize that the pin unit was this accessible. Nice design work guys.

what the hell happened to your rug? Mine smelled like a new rug. I didn't get movie piss add on. :/

why? It's plenty for what it is. The newer code uses white light as well, so you can see better.

is there a setting in the code to stop the car from moving outward when hit? Because it seems to happen often, when the car gets hit, the ball gets stuck behind it and stays there until the mode is done. Ball search doesn't move the car. So it would be nice to have a setting to turn off the car moving when hit, or add it to the ball search.

that's the revision i'm running. But my car does not close or even move during ball search. is it because a ball is behind it, so when doing a search, it only moves the car if in resting position? Try it, with a ball stuck between the car and the standup targets, and see if yours moves. Mine does not.

yes, The ball gets stuck behind the car and standups a lot. WHen the ball bashes the car, the car moves out for a second, and the ball can bounce off the rubbers below and back up behind it before the car moves back. Happened to me at least 10 times. THen the ball just stays there pinched between the back of the car and the stand ups. Until the mode is over and the car goes back in the garage.

Now if there was a setting I could turn off the car moving when hit, it would eliminate the possibility of this happening.

my Donny shot would go down the middle every time. I tried several things that would get knocked off by the ball. Finally, I scuffed up the edge of the tip of the right metal rail. About 1/4" in. Scuffed with about 500 grit. Then used some UV adhesive. put a bead in the middle. About 1-2mm thick. Hardened it with UV. Every donny shot now, kicks over to the left flipper every time. Been this way for about 500 games so far and still holding strong.

Clear epoxy would work as well i'm sure.

I have a 2021 build, and I have no flipper weakness at all ever. Even when when used for tournaments all day long and playing nonstop.

I just got one of those as well for a present for my dad.

are they adding mini wizard modes for each of the steps to progress to the final? like all car modes has a bonus mode, or all balls completed, or all rug modes completed. Give some short term wizards to feel satisfied for those of us who will probably never chop enough wood to make it to final wizard.

make sure the block plug is plugged in correctly.

is the switch working that lets the game know it's in the upper playfield?

In the 3rd car mode. You only get 1 hit on the car per try and it cuts the flipper
In rug mode, "see what happens". you only get 1 hit on the car, per time it's in the upper field.

Check wiring from the switch to the plug the switch is in the board. Reseat plug several times

if you need vinyl decals, I can cut anything you need.

I really hope they put in mini wizards for short term objectives. Will give something to work for , while going for the overall ending. Otherwise it's a little too much chopping wood feeling currently. Just a little.

something to unlock or do, when you chop wood. Say you get all the bowling balls. Do a special mode. Do all the rug modes, and have a mini mode wizard. Get 5 mark it zeros, and have something happen.

Those are the things that give you small things to work for, so you build up while, doing the overall journey. that's one of the things that LOTR did great. While you are on this journey thats long as shit. You can do all the multiballs, and get destroy the ring mini wizard. Do all the modes, and get,"there and back again" mini wizard mode. Things like that. Otherwise things feel too much like a grind. Most will not get the final ending anytime soon, so having short term wizards are satisfying enough and achievable.

doesn't break up the flow of LOTR. Short term major objectives are critical in programming. Rewards the player in steps. Grinding out all the modes for no big conclusion is not a reward. It's chopping wood. Working your ass off spelling bowling 5 times is a lot of work. Just to get ball completed with no bonus, is a lot of work. Completing all 3 car modes with no resolution except a lit insert at the bottom, is very unsatisfying. If you take a look how other recent games are made. You will see special things and modes offered for completing series of objectives. Breaks up the repetitive nature of games. Like iron maiden. Complete all 5 modes, you start 5 min to midnight. Get all the pyramids and able to start cyborg multiball. When you play, you shoot for one of those mini wizard objectives. Because 99% of the time, you are never getting to the ending which is number of the beast. But you can mix it up. Like go for different ones. That's what stops a game from feeling repetitive.

with TBL it starts with the same chop wood every game. Grind out the balls, Grind out the characters, grind out the modes. Same setup, same routine.

Exactly. And I was expecting this with the 1.0 release. 99% of us will never get to dude abides. So regardless how awesome it might be. Most will never see it. Short term goals could be seen.

I don't care when it happens, as long as it does happen. Needs just a little more ummph in the code to really put the code together.

So i was thinking on what kind of modes I would add if I was doing the code. For completing all the balls. I would do a 2 ball multiball. Certain shots would increase jackpot value. Other shots would improve super jackpot value. While in 2 ball multiball, you would have to lock one ball in the saucer on the left, and lock another in the scoop or scoop on top mini. Once both balls are locked. You get 2 balls in the bowling section. Spare, gives you jackpot. Strike gives you super jackpot, and then it kicks both balls back into play.

For characters completed. Do a 5 ball multiball. Have the jackpot move between all character shots. Like 5 seconds it moves to another character. Jackpot value based upon how many balls are still in play. So if you have 5 balls still in play. it's 5x's jackpot value.

All cars completed. Starts car frenzy. 2 ball multiball. Where you have to damage the car in multiball. But if you dont' hit it often enough, it heals back up. Once you hit the car enough and destroy it. kicks out another ball, and adds to the jackpot multiplier. Car gets more difficult, each level you pass. more health to the car.

unplug the ball through switches, and redo them.

i put a small bead of UV hardener on the very edge of that metal piece. Kicks the ball out perfectly to the left flipper now. Been that way for about 7 months and has about 700 plays on it since then. Still working great.

the lighting is great on TBL. should never be a need for pinstadiums on TBL.

before mine would shoot for the middle. Now that I added something to the metal rail to kick the ball over to the left flipper.

is it paper or vinyl banner material?

can't you just add resistors or something to lower the 5 volts down to 3?

so you need to drop 12v down to 3v. Little more difficult, but the process should still be as easy. Just more resistance?

I have a friend in rockford selling his for $14000 with no pooling at all. Just opened the box like 2 months ago, and maybe has 40 plays on it. If that.

must be the clear they use. I've been using the same clear for 17 years, and have yet to encounter this with my restorations. And i've done about 500 fields.