You need to tap into the wire that feeds the translight LED. Simple 2 wire plug. The topper as recieived will not directly plug in anywhere sadly. Simple install though. Let me know if you need pics but fairly straight forward.

Hey Dave! Unfortunately, I need pictures of how to do this. If you could post them, I would really appreciate it. Electrical is not my strong point. Thanks, Jim

Sure! Note I didn't go the fancy route as its a simple 12v connection. I simply spliced into the wire set feeding the single LED going to the back glass. Hope this helps. I resisted trying to connect to Any boards as those are less forgiving if you touch the wrong places.

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Anybody experience the rug being in the closed position when it is "ready"?

Upon next ball the rug retracts revealing the hole and the rug mode can be activated.

This problem only seems to manifest every 3 games or so.

Curious what might be causing it and how to adjust.

an easy thing to check is whether or not the stepper is well terminated in the plug. a poor connection to one of the stepper motor wires causes all kinds of weird issues given how they work.

i was getting weird stuff and just used a flat head to help better terminate the IDC plug. never had a problem since

dts is having similar issue so may want to share notes in case thats not it

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That helps tremendously. Thank you so much. I’m going to get on that tomorrow.

Good luck. It really is a Great looking topper and fits the theme perfectly. I do suggest dialing the light back a bit with the dimmer they provided as its Rather overpowering. lol

Yes, that is looking like the problem. Tom, you have been a huge resource here and behind the scenes-you're awesome! Out of the box, the rug mechanism occasionally did some strange things and this became more obvious when I was working on my P3-ROC board power/connection issue. I experimented with the connection tonight and that improved the behavior. So tomorrow I'll make new connections in the IDC plug and hopefully have it back to 100 percent.

Hey Jim, did you figure out if version 2.0 is compatible with version 1.0 of the P3-Roc board?

Multimorphic's description says:
"Also note – version 2 boards are very similar to version one boards. The only differences are the communication bus connectors (J11, J12, J14, and J15) are now 3 pins (with an optional ground pin) instead of 2, and the I2C connector (J17) now includes an interrupt input."

My board remains intermittent despite multiple attemps to fix it. So, I'd like a new board but don't want to spend $175 on version 2 only to find it doesn't work! On another issue, the rug mech is working with the connector fixed.

Addendum: Spoke w Gerry at Multimorphic and Scott at Pinball Life and they are investigating. Only difference is a third ground pin on some bus connectors. Also, Scott said to try a new USB cable if not connecting as a first step, if the board is powering up.

This is for TBL owners (as David knows now). I have been working with Multimorphic to see if they would offer a “TBL package” of spare boards (4 boards in total).

Gerry believes he has it narrowed down after our conversations and pictures. As luck wouldn’t have it, they have moved onto newer versions. Gerry believes either some may be backwards compatible and others will need to have connectors modified to work which they are willing to do for a small fee.

We just got to this point last week.

So, the question is there anyone out there that wants to try this out? Maybe we could all chip in some $$ so someone can test them. I would be willing would you?? Maybe we fund dts .

Thoughts ???

I would donate to the cause.

Makes 2 of us... so far.

Anyone else? Bueller Bueller

LOL

Count me in

Hey, that's cool of you guys! I'll probably go ahead and get one soon regardless, and can report back. I'm pretty confident the version 2 will work after talking with Gerry and Scott, although Barry didn't seem to think so, which is concerning, reason not given. My P3-roc board works, it just intermittently connects, and doesn't seem to be a power issue. I tried a new USB cable to the motherboard, and that didn't do it. Manipulating the position of the board (again, for the 20th time) worked...and then won't work in a few games. So, I'm not sure which connector is the problem. I assume it is on the P3-roc male connectors, but can't exclude the main board entirely. I'll keep looking at this.

cpr9999 , I’m in for a set of boards.

I am in.

FYI.

We are working this out with Multimorphic, so you will be able to order the 4 boards direct from the supplier (and cut me out...which is good for both of us!). LoL

The key board is the P3roc- looks like dts is going to try V2 out for us and report back.

Tonight I looked at the connectors some more and reseated them yet again, focused on another connector next to the power source. Played perfectly for 1.5 hours. I'm betting that a main board female connector is the issue and want to explore getting another main board first. If Gerry at Multimorphic is willing to send one out for us to try though, I'd be happy to do so. I want to solve this issue on my machine first as the extra P3-roc may be a rabbit trail. They are very durable. I'll check back in. I definitely want spare boards too but I’m just trying to problem solve this issue first.

Are the schematics available for this game for troubleshooting?

Barry said he’s working on a manual with the schematics. The ones from ARA were apparently not up to speed. Congo/Creature playfield window works, just a small piece of plastic cut out to fit between the slingshot solenoid.
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I am in on set of boards as well

I tried this out. Played a couple test games and the issue seems to be fixed.

Thanks for the help.

Just a follow up on my P3-roc not connecting. It was a faulty usb connection at the motherboard. P3-roc and main board were fine. So the newer standoffs on the main board securing the P3-roc apparently do resolve the connection issue on the early games. Another issue to look at is to make sure the top of the bowling alley mechanism isn’t touching a mosfet on the front board. This can short out the scoop solenoid, which I had to replace. Magnet tape on the highest part of the metal of the bowling alley mech provides safety. I think most of the newer games already have this fix. Barry was incredibly helpful and responsive.

Can anyone shoot me a pic where the topper power plugs in ? Thanks

Why supply a plug if it’s not used ?
I think I will order a adapter and plug it in the wall ! The thought of splicing wires on the translite I’m very hesitant

Works better splicing then crawling under your game to unplug the topper every time. Rather simple and integrated to go to the 12v translite in my opinion.

Pick up an adapter that allows you to control the voltage. It’s pretty bright on 12V and reflective off the playfield window. I turned it down to 9V and like it better. Plug it into your surge protector and it fires up simultaneously.

Mine came with a dimmer on the back side of the topper? Agreed it’s way to bright and needs to be dialed down.

Must have a faulty dimmer on mine, couldn't get it to go down... Just tested again and it does dim a little but still too bright at 12V, so I like it better adjusting down to 9V. 6V was too dim.

Cant we just tap into the power supply in the top right of the back box?

I used the wall outlet with Remote for the Speaker Lights, Sub and Topper on TBL
Seemed to be the most not invasive way.
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I'd like to welcome Pinhead1982 who's TBL just shipped from DP. Would you mind sharing high-resolution photos of your under playfield, boards, and cabinet so we can compare any differences between DP builds vs. ARA built ones? From one of the photos you posted, it seemed like the apron might have not been screened. Was that fixed before shipping? Hoping so...

Welcome aboard buddy.

--

Hi Time!
Thanks for the welcome message. It’s good to finally be here... well as of Wednesday when game is delivered.

I am EA#105- the game coming is a new money game..
The Apron I think has had a decal applied- (picture of 2 games together has both aprons with logo on)

Sure I will share pictures of the game underside when it arrives.

Hopefully All will be well and the issues/ feedback given on the 90 previous games, Barry has addressed.

I

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Ordered a 12v adaptor , plug it in the wall and use the small remotes to turn it on. $12,500 I’m not even thinking of splicing wires ! I love the game but until I can get spare parts she just sits lit up !
Very few plays I’m afraid to break anything at this point. It’s ok I got a couple others to play.

Barry has told me - DP have all bases covered- alternative parts that can be used to build TBLs... just play the thing! Waited years to do it... well I have!

I've been waiting to update code until I can make an image backup myself. Just haven't done it yet. Need to order a replica ssd. Does anyone know exactly what drive it is?

I already had to get in there fixing things though. My backglass didn't survive shipping. Looked like the foam edge fell out and the head rubbed against the rails scuffing them up. The back glass must have been cracked though because it all broke into pieces as I lifted the head for the first time. Luckily nothing irreplaceable was damaged. The translite was scratched but I already got a new one. I got new glass too and I'll order new rails since the scuff marks won't come out. Like others, my lock bar was scuffed too. Thinking I'll take the opportunity to change the top armor over to copper. I think that might look cool. I'll post details about replacing the glass and translite when I get to it doing it.

I was playing about in the menu and went into software - Version

It is currently running at .48- but there is a list of previous updates. Anyone know if these are in the game memory?

I seem to remember music with Lyrics?

Nope, no lyrics.

What pictures do people want of underside of the Playfield?

Just a Few of the whole thing?

Whole thing - but take plenty of photos in sections so we can zoom in - thanks!

This was a controversy a few years back, DP claimed they had full original songs and posted a pic of Roger Sharpe “certifying” that their IP agreements were in order, then had to walk it back and replace with instrumental covers.

Luckily it still sounds pretty good!

taking the roof off the building is easy and can see what you're dealing with for the switches

Ok opposite question.

What switch makes to keep the car/door open. Is it the 2 standup targets. If so, what is beat wat to get at these switches to adjust?

Or so you make an adjustment somewhere in code to open further.

the mechanism uses the parking spot targets to register car hits. i forgot if its the inner or outer one. i just adjusted till it worked well.. no false car hits, actual car hits are registered and the thing stops with confidence.. i.e., it opens till it sets off one of the switches.

Did you adjust the switches? If so, how did you access them?

Or can you do something in code to open car further?

access from inside the building like i said. your question about opening further isn't a thing as it opens until it sets off one of those switches.. it uses them as a limit switch. so, its as wide as possible always.

Anyone install mirror blades in TBL? If so which ones (source/manufacturer)?