Is no one going to comment on the fact it seems you're playing in a pirate ship with a sailor that has tig ol' bitties?!?!

it's the way we roll over here, aboard captain neo's

Congrats! Yeah that was me who posted about that. My dip switches weren't exactly correct but I don't think that was causing the issue as it persisted after. Also sometimes the red and black output to speakers wires are wrong, but mine weren't. But you'll want to check that too. See where posts started and ended here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/11#post-6273335

DP sent me a new audio board. However the hiss as appeared again since, it's just not happening nearly as often as it was with the old board. I don't think a root cause is known yet, so you'll want to ping DP support. Hope this helps.

From Dutch Pinball:

Today we heard the terrible news that Jaap, our dear friend and co-founder of Dutch Pinball, passed away yesterday. He fought hard, but unfortunately it wasn't enough. Our hearts go out to his family and friends.
We're going to miss you buddy

197584753_3982570715172385_8084893357442118876_n (resized).jpg

Sad news. Didn't know him, but looks far too young....

Jaap became DP's main presentation guy at all the shows after Phil, DP's original 3rd partner, gave their infamous Expo '14 TBL debut presentation and then quit the company a few months later.

Despite the frustrating business behavior from DP over the following years, Jaap always seemed like a nice guy right up to when he left a couple of years ago due to his illness. My sympathy to his family and friends!

sad news. Phil was sick as well. Anyone know how he is doing?

"... these young men gave their lives. And so would Jaap, Jaap who loved pinball. And so, Jaap Nauta, in accordance with what we think your dying wishes might well have been, we commit your final mortal remains to the bosom of the Pacific Ocean, which you loved so well.

Good night sweet prince."

I'm no expert, and Rens or others can correct me if I'm wrong -- there may be an FAQ already for this but I couldn't find one. This is what I've learned about how these ports work since owning the machine a few months:

Put the stock grey and black cables back to where they were on the Right side connector. The available 2x USB ports on the Left side connector are there for a code USB (or other peripherals if needed). Use one of those Left ports instead to install the code. The .ZIP file needs to be in the root folder of your USB stick and remain as the .ZIP you downloaded from Dutch (do not extract it).

Why did you change the USB connections? Were you NOT able to install the code via your own USB stick by using the open, left side USB ports? If that's the case it's probably a problem with your USB stick format / how you placed the .ZIP file onto it.

Usually the problem is that the Zip file was unzipped. Some computers do this automatic. Also the zip file needs to Benin the root indeed.

As a new owner I have a couple questions for the group.1. What degree of pitch should be set at the flippers? 2. The Maude lane ball gate will sometimes stay open for a return back down the lane wondering if I have to make an adjustment and if so can it be done without removing the upper playfield.
3. The white Russian targets take a lot of ball force to register, is this part of the design or should I adjust the leaf switches?
4.I increased the power level by 2 at the bowling alley ball return and about every 5 games the plunger does not get the ball all the way up to the holder. Just wondering if I should increase the power more (I don't want to cause any damage).

1. I have my game playfield set at 6.5 degrees +/- slope.
2. It appears from looking at my game that you'll need to remove the upper playfield in order to properly access/service the orbit gate near the Maude lanes.
3. Yes - adjust the leaf switches as they're not meant to be difficult to activate.
4. Try more power and see what happens. Otherwise, have you checked for a possible obstruction (loose nut, wire etc.) that may be hindering the ball from consistently being kicked up? You'll need to remove the 10 or so nuts on the underside of the game to detach the bowling mech inside the game to inspect it.

Hope the above is helpful Dude!

dup

Thanks the elevation level works great and for the other tips.

Can anyone show off the lighted apron in video? I want to see if its worth it for me. I only see pictures of it here. Thanks in advance.

Nee, wat een verschrikkelijk nieuws!! Gecondoleerd met dit verlies voor zijn familie en vrienden. Ik heb mooie herinneringen aan een man vol passie! Bedankt.

Such a great and friendly man who used his last last time to help others. If you appreciate the energy he put in your TBL product maybe you have something left to donate to his good cause? Fighting lonelyness for (eldery) people who are near the end.

Non profit:
http://www.stichtingmijnkeuze.nl/
‘Stichting Mijn Keuze’
Bic: RABONL2UXXX
IBAN: NL36 RABO 017 588 4463

PO box 5268
9700 GG Groningen
The Netherlands

English: https://www-stichtingmijnkeuze-nl.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=nl&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=nl&_x_tr_pto=ajax,nv

This is an EA version. Standard version is similar, just not mentioning early achiever.

Pricing is eur 495 excl vat excl shipping.

That’s purdy

Just place my order with Cointaker. Thank you!!
I love how the stars light up at different times.

It beats a usd 2000 topper any time of the day

For sure! At least you get to see it while playing!

It really ties the game together!

463920A2-6D03-4D22-A96B-7319BA455C47 (resized).jpeg

anyone else, getting ramp rejects from, "the Dude" ramp for lock? many times, mine makes it to the top and stops and comes back down. Not all the time, but I bet 50% of them are rejected. Looks like the plastic part of the ramp straddles the metal box entrance. Is there a way to improve this? Mine was just made from Dutch pinball. not even 2 weeks old.

And is there a way to adjust the backbox brightness?

Get one of cpr9999 's left ramp clip mods. I have one installed on my TBL and rarely have this reject issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/93567

With all the new owners this is a good time to repost the best reunion interview ever. Enjoy:

And they all own TBL's now too no doubt! Fuckin' A man!

Back in stock yet?

so is there an adjustment for backbox brightness that i'm just not finding?

They need to add some mini wizard modes for completing all the bowling balls, or all 5 characters. Have a little mode or something for getting them done.

I have the non-EA one and while it's missing the Early Achiever portion of the lighting, I will say that it's extremely awesome! Plus anyone who is a EA pre-orderer should have something extra-extra-extra special given their hardship/wait for the machine itself. Their dedication and patience deserves it, not me. The way the lit apron integrates with the already stock game lighting is fantastic. Once you install it you'll likely feel like it's as if it was meant to be there all along. In other words, it doesn't feel like an "add-on" like some other static lit mods do. It's integrated with its own PCB, individual star lights fade in/out in a programmatic manner, and in the way they do complements everything lit on the playfield while playing and in attract mode. DP truly took their time in creating something special. So, if you're looking to spend extra to truly enhance the experience, it's very much worth it to go with this vs. a topper IMHO. Keep in mind that you'll have to give up any apron cards as there aren't slots for those. But you probably won't care about that since the lit apron is so awesome and likely your machine is HUO on free play anyhow.

Where can the Apron be purchased from? Thanks.

Yes, Thank you, I have seen photos, but they don't make any justice. I saw the video Rensh posted and fell in love with it. I am on the list for a Lebowski and not sure when I am gonna get mine, but I want to have everything including mods by the time I get it. Thanks again!

Email Dutch @ [email protected], They will send an invoice and a link to pay via PayPal typically.

I did this a month ago and they replied that I had to wait for supplies to be shipped so they could make more. Just fyi.

What is your ETA or did you receive it?

It never went any farther than that...

Maybe I should reach out again.

I just finished reading All the 45 previous pages of this thread... Man I really have to say big thank you to Rensh for all the input and information he has provided here. His help is truly valuable. the ETA for my TBL is in December, but I have been learning so much here... Now, to wait patiently until I get my Lebowski.

Hi Rens,
after approx. 20 games without any problems I suddenly got a similiar issue with the right flipper.
During gameplay I saw the right flipper loosing it’s function. Slowly but surely. Finally the coil didn‘t work anymore…
What I did:
1. Coil test -> right flipper with no function (left flipper normal)
2. Switched connectors on the small PCB left<->right -> both !!! flipper coils working in coil test -> so, no issue with the coil or the soldering of the coil!?
3. Switched back the connectors -> right flipper first working a few times, then less often, then dying again…
But how can that be? (since both flipper coils are working perfecty when switching the connectors!)
Could it be an issue with the small PCB?
Do you have any idea how to proceed?
Perhaps a loose wiring in the connector!? I will check that tomorrow…

I figure I would post this link here. Its a good read about Walter and report is 5 days old.

https://faroutmagazine.co.uk/john-goodmans-the-big-lebowski-character-walter-sobchak/?amp

…problem solved!

It was so easy, just pressed the wires deep into the connector

For switching coils one has to twist the connectors. So there’s some tension on the wires and they get in contact again.
That explains why everything worked after switching left<->right.

What kind of cabinet decals does the TBL have? I am planning on changing the siderails, so I was wondering if the whole cabinet side is decaled or do the decals end to the beginning of the siderails like with CGC?

I was planning to see if I could remove the siderails just by applying heat from hairdryer and seeing if I could separate the siderail from the cabinet rather than trying to pry them from underneath with some tool. Any advice from those who have done the job?

Thanks for any advice!

Decals go all the way up under the siderails. I changed my siderails. Was careful but wasn't too much of an issue. I don't recall using heat at all. The decals pulled away from the wood a little at first, but they were easy enough to press back on when I installed the new rails. The doubleside tape I rolled in an upward motion to keep the decal from pulling away from the wood again. Spent about 90 minutes doing the job from what I remember.

Did you use any tools or did you go just by bending the siderail a bit by bit?

I believe I used a large flat plastic pry tool, the type used to remove car trim pieces. Once I got it started I pulled up on the metal to remove it fully. I wasn't trying to save my original rails though because they were damaged in shipping. This might not work for you if you're trying to save those.

Same worked for me, some plastic pry tools worked well without heat.

Do not use heat on the side-rails. Use a thin, flat, wide PLASTIC scrapper. Its about a 3 minute job.

FYI Dan knows - he just did this and replaced with copper plated rails - looks awesome!

Too excited when mine finally arrives....copper or brass best? Is all the armor standard B/W?

Thinking of buying and plating a set ahead of time...

A "must do" as I've seen pics of some beauties here....