Mods & backups:

Everything back in stock below, except item #5. I also only have 2 spare motherboards in stock.

1. Doobie (Joint) Mod
2. Decal stickers
3. Left ramp clip
4. Spare full backup harddrive
5. Spare Audio circuit board
6. Bowling Pins (qty 3)
7. Adapter kit for Speaker lights
8. Spare motherboard

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-mods

I know off one happy dude who is about to finally officially join the owners club !!

Tuna_Delight keep a close eye on your mailbox !

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Yes - looking forward to finally receiving my EA game and joining this prestigious club!

I am about ready to tear down my machine to take all the metal off and send it out to powdercoat. I need to tighten the screw on that car (mine recently started to come loose - impacting how well and reliably the switches work up there) so I might as well go all-in and take it apart. I am scared half to death to dismantle a machine I paid so much money for but I have nothing but time since the machine will never leave my collection, might as well take it offline for a bit. Wish me luck!

or you could forget about the powder and just play your beautiful game Seriously its such a looker, not sure it needs anything.

Powdercoat? Are you going to give the ballguides a color?

And if you do it now you have the comfort knowing the machine is still in production eg in the unlikely case you break something it’s available. When you look further down the road you don’t know that.

Thinking about copper. That one guys machine looked great with copper ramps, legs and lockdown bar, rails. Why not take it a step further and do ALL the exposed metal in copper??

Didn’t notice he did also the ramps (I assume the wire form on the left) in copper. Interesting project for sure and look forward to seeing the result. The color of copper does blend nicely with the other colors in the Tbl.

PinballplAting.com already does the wire ramps and apron wire form as a set in copper - check it out.

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That's awesome another EA is getting their game!

Looks nice. Chris at pinball plating showed me this months ago. Another Pinsider did this on his game. I believe he posted pictures in this forum.

I believe he even did coin door, side rails etc. looked sharp!!

My question is would this cooper standup on ball guides. They get beat pretty hard.

I chromed next coindoor thru Chris and they did nice work.

Found it - ask Scott9

Here are some pictures:

Note see this link for cabinet copper.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/13#post-5384053

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Have you guys used the Intuit Quickbooks portal to pay with bank account for things with CT before? I assume it's safe-ish? Or did you mail check old fashioned way or wire it yourself?

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Hi. Yes I used the Intuit portal to pay for my Lebowski with Cointaker. I had no issues. Easy Peasy!

Good luck, Congrats and enjoy the game!

I agree it’s nice. Don’t tar and feather me for saying this, but I wish he would sell outright and not require an exchange. I’ve asked and he says “no, exchange only”

It's been spoken before, can't find the answer unfortunately.

Question, what's the fix for weak flippers?

Menu/Adjustments/Flippers/ default number 25, is the lower the number stronger or weaker flippers?

Thanks

I think the number is in milliseconds for a coil pulse, so a bigger number would be a longer pulse of high current from the coils.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/28#post-5738745

Brilliant thanks for that information.

30 is the highest number, hasn't made much of a difference unfortunately.

Anything else that would help?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/7#post-5181957

Apparently, someone upgraded the coil on the right side and turned the ms setting back down.

FL-11630 is the next stronger coil.

Mhhh ... DP is using WMS style parts.
FL-11630 is the label on my DP original coil.
A swap would not help anything !

I tested it due my "hold power" is not perfect.
I can make all ramp shots but holding a ball on a flipperbat while in multiball, a second ball on the flipperbat and the holdpower breaks in.

IMG_8635 (resized).JPG

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-fl-11630-flipper-coil.html

There's a list that says 15411 is stronger, then the strongest of all is 11629.
It's interesting to look at which games use each coil. JJP games use 15411's; Shadow and Indiana Jones use 11629. I feel like my Shadow flippers aren't dangerously over-powered--at least compared to using something like the Lord of the Rings special coil in random Stern games that don't require it. That's a bit over-powered from what I've seen of those.

Wasn't there a flipper fix and some point, something to do with the wires mixed up?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/22#post-5547279

Upper flipper issue only, nothing to do with the lower flippers.

For those interested I have 2 backup functional motherboards for sale which are no longer made. First 2 to ping me get them!!

Has anyone created an ISO or disk image of the drive for backup purposes?

Come on, post 1451

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/30#post-5853771

Each of these posts I've linked to in the past few messages here took me combined less than a minute of searching the thread.

Come on? I asked about an iso or disk image, not a spare hard drive. This is something that anyone could send electronically and build their own disk replacement. Completely different things.

Yes sir.

I sell backup harddrives with latest software loaded.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-mods

sure.. but prob wouldn't share it.. unknown what serial number type info is on there that could be a problem later if they ever get serious about online play again. maybe everything is mac address based, dunno.

Watch out ... most gamedesigners thought about which coil to use. If you can reach all ramps, the coil is fine. A stronger coil may kill your plastics.
STRONG is not always wanted.

Yes you sell them .. I think okgrak is just looking for the image from a onlinedrive or cloud.

Remove the SSD and clone it on the PC or MAC.

I wouldn't think that it requires anything special because it is a pinball machine.

I tried it and broke my glas while removing the translite .. so I will not tocuh my backbox the next weeks
Happylie get a new glass from DP on my next visit.

The translite is heavy!!! Be careful with that.

Last week I received my TBL, a few things I had to adjust

- The lockbar wasnt sitting tigh, easy fix, there are 2 screws on the lockdown lever, after adjusting these the lockbar is sitting snug.
- Donny loop was giving me alot of drains, I bended the metal rail guide carefully to the right to fix this issue.
- Car wasnt registering all the hits, adjust both target switches. Its better now but not perfect.

One thing that is quite annoying is the amount of airballs I get when hitting the targets besides the ramps. The gap between the target and foam is too big..... going to order some extra foam to fix this or replace the targets with better ones.

Overall I am very happy with the machine, its build like a tank and besides some small issues everything is working fine.

Question to other owners, at what kind of pitch do you have the machine ? 6.5 seems a bit too fast ?

Understood. I’m fairly proficient at Linux so I’m hoping to see if I can upgrade the kernel so that we aren’t all bound to these six year old motherboards for repair. I’ll wait until my machine arrives and clone the drive.

The stand up's metal is shit, it bends easily. Barry is supposed to have new ones coming.

DP already has a Linux expert looking into this. No pressure however as they still have sufficient old motherboards at the moment for the coming months. But confident this will be taken care of by DP.

I made once an image when I hooked up the SSD via USB to a windows Pc and made an image in which sector copy was used. Have no experience with Linux so no idea if this will truely work. Am confident however that DP will help if needed plus I have a spare SSD which was flashed by DP. So should be save.

Nearly same experiences here!
I have the drains on outer left loop and the "Maude" way. Both metall lanes are guided at the end by posts, I think I have to brighten the posthole and move the lanes a little bit.
Car targets the same, only the back of the car registers hits. So the targets needs to come closer to the car, or the car unit has to come nearer to the target .. will see.
Lockbar same ... adjusted it, 2 minutes work, everything fine.

I play my machine on 6,5 , works fine and, yes ... fast.

Did your flipperbats ever break in in hold mode ?

Cheers
Tom

I guess I never realized. So TBL has a true backglass, not just a translite?

Understood. They can preserve the same distro/build and upgrade the kernel. Intel has continue the same embedded Celeron Lineup, as there is a J3, J4, and now a J5 series all in the same form factor.

When my machine arrives I should be able to figure this out relatively quickly.

It’s a translite. It’s however in a kind of frame, compare it with the kind of frame you can buy to hang a translite on the wall. It’s different but same kind of idea.

I have the same problem. I was hoping it does not need to be fixed by actively drilling the PF! Isn't this just a case of bending the ends, or adjusting the incline level (I'd assume lifting the back up one or two centimeters should do it)?

A friend of mine played yesterday my TBL and his idea is to cut the rubber from the post a little to bend the metall rail.
The point is, the rail presses against the post, therefor is no space for bending.
My rail seems to to stand under tension, the ball makes kind of a "jump" to the middle , so the ball does not follow the rail at all.

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How about removing the rubber just for a test. If it’s truely under tension it should move.

If than the shots are OK a solution could be a thinner rubber sleeve or just cut some rubber away.

So my game has the same orbit issues / drains coming around from right to left but my game actually gets the ball closer to the right flipper, not the left. I am looking at FATTER post rubber for they lost to bend the rail further and make the ball hit the right flipper.

I did some smaller tweaks today ...

Cutted the rubbes as Rensh´s idea. It works better now !
Some Mylar to the InLanes where the ball drops.
Small Mylar on the wood where the balls comes out, same effect like Cliffys in cheap version.
Clear washers under the sligshotplastics to protect them.
Protectors under the flipperbuttons.
Some foam under the 2 standup targets in front of left ramp.
Some PETG to make the loop on the upper playfield a little longer should prevent balls coming down instead of moving propper on the upper playfield.

First game after all, new GC 30 Millions. Stacked all characzters multiballs and got 4 bowlingballs ... jackpots raised the new GC !
I will add images later on.

Pics:

Sleeve cutted
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Slings
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Rubber hits metall .... check your machine

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Plastic PETG IMG_8701 (resized).JPG

Foam

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Good to hear SDTM has improved

In regard to the flipper button protectors. The decals are laminated so in principal there should be need for these protectors.

And now up the scores !!

And am interested to see what you mean with :

Some PETG to make the loop on the upper playfield a little longer should prevent balls coming down instead of moving propper on the upper playfield.

See pics attached (now).

Sometimes the ball comes down after a loop from the upper playfield due it makes it little to the left coming down the the lane instead doing a full loop. The little oiece PETG is glued with doublesided tape and makes the metal lane a little longer.
I am sure you understand if you see the pic

Interesting.

Never saw a ball coming through the lane in place of full loop.

Than the flipper rubber touching the ball rail. I wonder if the flipper bushing is perhaps not OK and thus allowing the rubber to touch the rail. What did you do here to improve this?

I just added some adhesive backed 1/4” weather strip foam to the top of the existing foam on the two lock targets and it’s already made a world of difference to slow down riccochet and airballs.