The Big Lebowski
Dutch Pinball, 2016Question to the owners.
I have my TBL already some time without any real issues. Played this week another TBL which was out of the box I think like a month and during game 1 the bal drained but this wasn’t noticed. Only way out was off-on.
Two days later I played my TBL and exactly the same happened during bal 3!! This for the first time that I can remember. Checked the ball through switches and all 5 registered. Only way out was off-on
Any other people experienced the same?
Quoted from Rensh:Question to the owners.
I have my TBL already some time without any real issues. Played this week another TBL which was out of the box I think like a month and during game 1 the bal drained but this wasn’t noticed. Only way out was off-on.
Two days later I played my TBL and exactly the same happened during bal 3!! This for the first time that I can remember. Checked the ball through switches and all 5 registered. Only way out was off-on
Any other people experienced the same?
Someone mentioned pulling and reseating the connectors to and from the boards.
Not sure if this worked - but worth a try.
Had it once or twice..
Reseated a few cables and has worked fine.
I now have a different issue - very first GO BOWLING.. the pinball doesn’t load in the launcher..
If you choose a character with 2 shots, on the second it loads up and is fine..
Quoted from cpr9999:Someone mentioned pulling and reseating the connectors to and from the boards.
Not sure if this worked - but worth a try.
All balls are registered so thinking more of a software bug. If it is a loose connector you would expect 1) off on wouldn’t help and 2) the balls would not be registered in the ball through
Quoted from Rensh:All balls are registered so thinking more of a software bug. If it is a loose connector you would expect 1) off on wouldn’t help and 2) the balls would not be registered in the ball through
Agree.
Like I mentioned, I came across this potential solution online and have never tried reseating them.
I have added it in my topic list seen at
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17Xb9AkuhFceae9Au2YzKGtETdpg9cNBMY4FQAmSaYQs/edit
On another note, yesterday a Dutch pinball vlogger (also owner of the Dutch pinball museum) visited DP factory so expect to see finally some video On the factory soon 
I will make sure the link is shared on Facebook.
Everything back in stock - TBL mods:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-mods
Quoted from Rensh:Question to the owners.
I have my TBL already some time without any real issues. Played this week another TBL which was out of the box I think like a month and during game 1 the bal drained but this wasn’t noticed. Only way out was off-on.
Two days later I played my TBL and exactly the same happened during bal 3!! This for the first time that I can remember. Checked the ball through switches and all 5 registered. Only way out was off-on
Any other people experienced the same?
Have you looked in the trough? I got my game yesterday and have it leveled perfectly. Occasionally when the ball drains it doesn't recongnize but its not because of switches or some error - its because the ball is just sitting in the top of the trough and not rolling down. I just posted in the maintenance thread as well. I am going to try to add some washers between the screws and the playfield at the leading end of the trough to make the angle steeper and see if that helps. Any other thoughts from the group??
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Have you looked in the trough? I got my game yesterday and have it leveled perfectly. Occasionally when the ball drains it doesn't recongnize but its not because of switches or some error - its because the ball is just sitting in the top of the trough and not rolling down. I just posted in the maintenance thread as well. I am going to try to add some washers between the screws and the playfield at the leading end of the trough to make the angle steeper and see if that helps. Any other thoughts from the group??
Thanks for your answer but as mentioned all through switches were triggered and active in the test menu. So you would expect it to see it drained the ball, how otherwise all switches would be active?
Anyway, once in over 1200 balls doesn’t bother me to much.
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Have you looked in the trough? I got my game yesterday and have it leveled perfectly. Occasionally when the ball drains it doesn't recongnize but its not because of switches or some error - its because the ball is just sitting in the top of the trough and not rolling down. I just posted in the maintenance thread as well. I am going to try to add some washers between the screws and the playfield at the leading end of the trough to make the angle steeper and see if that helps. Any other thoughts from the group??
I haven't seen that yet. 24 hrs after getting my game the micro switch in the VUK crapped out. Luckily I had a spare on hand and has been solid ever since.
Lets talk about the right gate assembly and its function. It has been recorded by a few owners that this gate can get hung up. Pretty much right out of the box last week the gate exhibited issues of not being able to open fast enough on well placed shots up the Donny orbit shot. I took apart the assembly twice now to see if I could figure it out.
As others have mentioned, there can be a clearance issue of the spring's position within the hole causing it to drag on the edge of the hole. This was also the case in mine. At first I bent the arm on the gate assembly itself to alter the position of the spring within the hole. That seemed to help but I could still feel drag on the spring. It was not suspended cleanly in the hole.
To finally solve the issue I ended up doing 2 things.
1. Shorten the spring by about 1/8" and create a new loop on the cut end so the spring didn't have so much play.
2. By using the screw closest to the subway under the playfield as the pivot-point, I rotated the assembly about 1/4" clockwise and tapped a new screw hole for the 2nd of the two mounting points. This allows for the gate assembly to float at the dead-center of the hole in the playfield.
In doing so the drag issue has been 100% resolved however sometimes during games the gate doesn't open but I think I have finally understood the intent of that gate and the logic behind it.
If the intent was for the Donny shot to always orbit then that gate wouldn't even be necessary so why is it there? Perhaps this is common knowledge of the ruleset but I thought I would write it down for anyone who might be struggling with this same issue.
The gate only lifts - thereby allowing the ball to orbit - while you are qualifying (lighting the DONNY lights) Donny Character. Once you have qualified Donny and prior to starting Character multiball, and still hit the Donny shot, the gate does not open and drops the ball into the pop bumpers. Also, the gate will open during other modes where you have to hit the orbits but otherwise, the game wont let you orbit from the left side.
Been thinking about this too - the playfield metal trim / rails / ball guides. Two things stand out. The finish on all of that metal is extremely dull and takes a beating, shows ball trails and wear immediately. The edges are a bit rough and where they are curved, the ramp diverter for example, they aren't actually curved, its manufactured / bent in a segmented fashion and not a true curve. It performs functionally but the appearance is a bit odd.
It would be quite a bit of work to tear down essentially the entire playfield but I wonder how much of an improvement it would be to take all of that metal, clean up the edges and have it powdercoated / chromed. Anyone else ever consider this?
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Been thinking about this too - the playfield metal trim / rails / ball guides. Two things stand out. The finish on all of that metal is extremely dull and takes a beating, shows ball trails and wear immediately. The edges are a bit rough and where they are curved, the ramp diverter for example, they aren't actually curved, its manufactured / bent in a segmented fashion and not a true curve. It performs functionally but the appearance is a bit odd.
It would be quite a bit of work to tear down essentially the entire playfield but I wonder how much of an improvement it would be to take all of that metal, clean up the edges and have it powdercoated / chromed. Anyone else ever consider this?
Could you please take some pics showing the finish, edges, and build in general?
Quoted from turbo20lbs:Could you please take some pics showing the finish, edges, and build in general?
You can see what I mean throughout the image gallery in this thread. Its the same production technique and materials used since day-one and is true of all machines.
This is a coincidence. This is also on my agenda for already several months to have a look at it what can be done. Will see if I can get a left over piece at DP to see if it polishable and how this holds.
And yes, replacing all metalwork is quite some work 
Quoted from turbo20lbs:Could you please take some pics showing the finish, edges, and build in general?
I think this pictures shows most if not all metal pieces.
520793CD-10B0-42B4-A208-D88226294CE5 (resized).jpegQuoted from Dkjimbo:Lets talk about the right gate assembly and its function. It has been recorded by a few owners that this gate can get hung up. Pretty much right out of the box last week the gate exhibited issues of not being able to open fast enough on well placed shots up the Donny orbit shot. I took apart the assembly twice now to see if I could figure it out.
As others have mentioned, there can be a clearance issue of the spring's position within the hole causing it to drag on the edge of the hole. This was also the case in mine. At first I bent the arm on the gate assembly itself to alter the position of the spring within the hole. That seemed to help but I could still feel drag on the spring. It was not suspended cleanly in the hole.
To finally solve the issue I ended up doing 2 things.
1. Shorten the spring by about 1/8" and create a new loop on the cut end so the spring didn't have so much play.
2. By using the screw closest to the subway under the playfield as the pivot-point, I rotated the assembly about 1/4" clockwise and tapped a new screw hole for the 2nd of the two mounting points. This allows for the gate assembly to float at the dead-center of the hole in the playfield.
In doing so the drag issue has been 100% resolved however sometimes during games the gate doesn't open but I think I have finally understood the intent of that gate and the logic behind it.
If the intent was for the Donny shot to always orbit then that gate wouldn't even be necessary so why is it there? Perhaps this is common knowledge of the ruleset but I thought I would write it down for anyone who might be struggling with this same issue.
The gate only lifts - thereby allowing the ball to orbit - while you are qualifying (lighting the DONNY lights) Donny Character. Once you have qualified Donny and prior to starting Character multiball, and still hit the Donny shot, the gate does not open and drops the ball into the pop bumpers. Also, the gate will open during other modes where you have to hit the orbits but otherwise, the game wont let you orbit from the left side.
Interesting piece. Thanks for the write up. Pls also post it in the maintenance thread at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/5#post-5730403
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Been thinking about this too - the playfield metal trim / rails / ball guides. Two things stand out. The finish on all of that metal is extremely dull and takes a beating, shows ball trails and wear immediately. The edges are a bit rough and where they are curved, the ramp diverter for example, they aren't actually curved, its manufactured / bent in a segmented fashion and not a true curve. It performs functionally but the appearance is a bit odd.
It would be quite a bit of work to tear down essentially the entire playfield but I wonder how much of an improvement it would be to take all of that metal, clean up the edges and have it powdercoated / chromed. Anyone else ever consider this?
You can take the guides off and polish. I used to do this on My Stern LEs but gave up because the ball marks just came back and the shinny rail dulls over time.
The only way to get rid of this for some time is to chrome the guide rails whether it is TBL or another game like Sterns pinball machines.
The only time I would now do this is if I really liked the machine and I was pulling the top of the playfield off.
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Lets talk about the right gate assembly and its function. It has been recorded by a few owners that this gate can get hung up. Pretty much right out of the box last week the gate exhibited issues of not being able to open fast enough on well placed shots up the Donny orbit shot. I took apart the assembly twice now to see if I could figure it out.
As others have mentioned, there can be a clearance issue of the spring's position within the hole causing it to drag on the edge of the hole. This was also the case in mine. At first I bent the arm on the gate assembly itself to alter the position of the spring within the hole. That seemed to help but I could still feel drag on the spring. It was not suspended cleanly in the hole.
To finally solve the issue I ended up doing 2 things.
1. Shorten the spring by about 1/8" and create a new loop on the cut end so the spring didn't have so much play.
2. By using the screw closest to the subway under the playfield as the pivot-point, I rotated the assembly about 1/4" clockwise and tapped a new screw hole for the 2nd of the two mounting points. This allows for the gate assembly to float at the dead-center of the hole in the playfield.
In doing so the drag issue has been 100% resolved however sometimes during games the gate doesn't open but I think I have finally understood the intent of that gate and the logic behind it.
If the intent was for the Donny shot to always orbit then that gate wouldn't even be necessary so why is it there? Perhaps this is common knowledge of the ruleset but I thought I would write it down for anyone who might be struggling with this same issue.
The gate only lifts - thereby allowing the ball to orbit - while you are qualifying (lighting the DONNY lights) Donny Character. Once you have qualified Donny and prior to starting Character multiball, and still hit the Donny shot, the gate does not open and drops the ball into the pop bumpers. Also, the gate will open during other modes where you have to hit the orbits but otherwise, the game wont let you orbit from the left side.
In regard to this topic. This a complete assy bought by DP in the US but leaves room for improvement. Having more people now at DP frees time to start working on making the tbl even a better in. So they are running now a test on a better self designed ballgate. Top site is the same, it’s only different at the bottom and thus also backwards compatible.
Also for the mini playfield they are thinking of a redesign where the stepper motor is no longer connect to a longer shaft to the car door but connect the steppermotor on the MPF with a short shaft direct to the car door. This would make removing the MPF a lot easier.
And so more changes are thought of to make it even more replicable and or to speed up assy process.
And yes, they are also thinking of firmware upgrades later on.
Work in progress so to speak
261BF583-8EA8-4C16-A116-2B1EA28DF2F7 (resized).png4239BE7D-01F2-4C83-875E-192B5B21FF58 (resized).png
After
A592C885-D732-4676-AC88-0E8C411A1E68 (resized).jpeg943C6FA7-7321-4BD5-9F8C-1B6379634A5A (resized).jpeg7B74BC0B-6475-4B83-B4D0-F1288B7B322C (resized).jpeg99E6FB72-38B0-4A81-9DAD-888363F1CDE5 (resized).jpeg0E0651F0-658A-4D33-9ECD-F0453A015A9A (resized).jpeg3BC306E6-199D-481B-B92D-AD819DD4CB47 (resized).pngRensh, Do you have any idea of how many EA games have shipped since they started shipping them again? I know I saw that #52 or #53 shipped but have not seen anything since then. I am #70 and was trying to figure out how many are ahead of me and when I might be able to expect to receive mine.
Thanks
Ed
Quoted from eharan:Rensh, Do you have any idea of how many EA games have shipped since they started shipping them again? I know I saw that #52 or #53 shipped but have not seen anything since then. I am #70 and was trying to figure out how many are ahead of me and when I might be able to expect to receive mine.
Thanks
Ed
Good question. I know of two for sure and they are now building one to. Biggest problem they have now is the starting of lack of parts. They are now experiencing unexpected sudden delays of a few weeks with parts from the US mainly. So they will continue to built parts like MPF and bowling and assemblies, just not complete pinballs besides a few for which they have all parts left. This would mean slowdown for now which would be compensated once parts come in with a speed up Because many assemblies are Than ready already. So long term no change but short term slower, sorry.
As mentioned in the vlog they sincerely hope once the parts come in production will speed up to hopefully 4 per week. Also there is talk of looking for a bigger building in the vlog. This would mean more people and increase further capacity. Let’s hope for this.
Also they are redesigning certain parts which would enable a quicker assembly.
Does anyone actually understand how the coil strength settings work? The value says "MS" and then depending on the coil gives a range of different numbers. How are owners to interpret that? Why is every coil (or set of similar coils) provided different values or a different range? Is it really adjusting "power" or is it adjusting responsiveness...speed.
If the values are responsiveness, one would conclude that the smaller the number the faster / snappier the coil.
If the values are "power", one would conclude that the larger the number, the harder the coils fire thus a snappier response.
What is correct? And what does MS mean? All I can come up with is "milliseconds" which is why I am wondering if "lowering" the number theoretically would improve performance.
I haven't done enough testing to actually notice if either of these are perceptible in play.
Anyone else have thoughts or concrete information on this?
Quoted from Rensh:Thanks for your answer but as mentioned all through switches were triggered and active in the test menu. So you would expect it to see it drained the ball, how otherwise all switches would be active?
Anyway, once in over 1200 balls doesn’t bother me to much.
just had this happen for the first time yesterday!
This must be a bug. If the switches are registering then its got to be a software issue.
Quoted from Dkjimbo:That metal looks SOOO MUCH BETTER! imagine doing the entire game with that new finish, what is that? Did you polish it yourself? What was the process?
Looks like 400 series stainless (polished) vs the current and standard type 304 grain finish commonly used. Looks nice but (in my opinion) will quickly and much more obviously show wear lines in short order. Grained finish typically blends the ball marks making them less obvious.
Burned out my shooter coil today. It’s got less than 20 plays too 
Anyways, it’s listed as AE-23-800, can someone confirm this is the correct replacement:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ae-23-800-coil.html
I don’t see a diode in the stock burned out one.
Anyone else experience this issue? Something I should check out that might be a leading indicator of a bigger issue?
Quoted from Yokimato:Burned out my shooter coil today. It’s got less than 20 plays too
Anyways, it’s listed as AE-23-800, can someone confirm this is the correct replacement:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ae-23-800-coil.html
I don’t see a diode in the stock burned out one.
Anyone else experience this issue? Something I should check out that might be a leading indicator of a bigger issue?
Don’t know the coil number but it’s mentioned on the wrapping so should be OK. Indeed, no diode is needed on the coil. This I can confirm.
Pls let also DP know of your problem.
I have never experienced a burnout coil. The driving transistor is supposed to be a very robust type which can overcome even a short. This was told by ARA at least during a factory tour. Let’s hope that’s correct.
Quoted from Dkjimbo:That metal looks SOOO MUCH BETTER! imagine doing the entire game with that new finish, what is that? Did you polish it yourself? What was the process?
Did this with a small bench top polishing machine using mainly the green compound. Is around 10-15 minutes polishing work.
And indeed, curious to see how it holds befor doing the other visible bits.
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Does anyone actually understand how the coil strength settings work? The value says "MS" and then depending on the coil gives a range of different numbers. How are owners to interpret that? Why is every coil (or set of similar coils) provided different values or a different range? Is it really adjusting "power" or is it adjusting responsiveness...speed.
If the values are responsiveness, one would conclude that the smaller the number the faster / snappier the coil.
If the values are "power", one would conclude that the larger the number, the harder the coils fire thus a snappier response.
What is correct? And what does MS mean? All I can come up with is "milliseconds" which is why I am wondering if "lowering" the number theoretically would improve performance.
I haven't done enough testing to actually notice if either of these are perceptible in play.
Anyone else have thoughts or concrete information on this?
Never checked it with DP but I have always thought To MS stands for milliseconds. Eg 20 ms means a pulse of 20 milliseconds long is driving the coil. The longer the pulse width the more power it contains eg coil becomes stronger. So you could say it relates to power.
Quoted from Rensh:Don’t know the coil number but it’s mentioned on the wrapping so should be OK. Indeed, no diode is needed on the coil. This I can confirm.
Pls let also DP know of your problem.
I have never experienced a burnout coil. The driving transistor is supposed to be a very robust type which can overcome even a short. This was told by ARA at least during a factory tour. Let’s hope that’s correct.
Thanks, I ordered two coils and emailed DP for suggestion. It could just be a bad luck situation (of which I'm well acquainted with) but concerned it could also be a symptom of something else too.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Joining the club in a few days! Can’t wait. Such a beautiful pin. Are there any “must” adjustments right out of the box I should do?
Thanks!
You only need to adjust anything not working correctly. Just plug it in and play. Don’t look for problems, if they are there they will find you.
Considering getting one of these pins, but have some questions and concerns.
Firstly, is it really worth that $12,500 price tag?
Also, how is the code? Is it complete? Does it have depth? Are there wizard modes, and what is the difficulty to reach them.
Also, are they reliable, and if they need parts, are they available?
Appreciate any input you guys can offer.
Cheers duderinos!
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Considering getting one of these pins, but have some questions and concerns.
Firstly, is it really worth that $12,500 price tag?
Also, how is the code? Is it complete? Does it have depth? Are there wizard modes, and what is the difficulty to reach them.
Also, are they reliable, and if they need parts, are they available?
Appreciate any input you guys can offer.
Cheers duderinos!
Yes they are worth it! If you like the movie- the theme integration & sound are awesome. Code is pretty darn good, it will get some more updates down the road. Play is good too with upper, lower and main playfields. Yes they are reliable.
The only problem is the 6-9 month wait.
Or pick one up local that has been dialed in for a bit more. Risk with waiting is will they have enough parts, etc to make them all (& stay in business). There is another thread on Pinside on this so let’s not discuss that here. (BTW I believe they will).
Quoted from cpr9999:Yes they are worth it! If you like the movie- the theme integration & sound are awesome. Code is pretty darn good, it will get some more updates down the road. Play is good too with upper, lower and main playfields. Yes they are reliable.
The only problem is the 6-9 month wait.
Or pick one up local that has been dialed in for a bit more. Risk with waiting is will they have enough parts, etc to make them all (& stay in business). There is another thread on Pinside on this so let’s not discuss that here. (BTW I believe they will).
So they definitely are working on more code?
Quoted from WizardsCastle:So they definitely are working on more code?
There is nothing “definitely” or “certain” regarding DP. If you go in excepting what is offered Now which is really good your expectations will be met.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:So they definitely are working on more code?
Yes, the plan is there. Yes, life is uncertain and thus programming pinballs to. If you make a buying decision base it on what you see now.
Quoted from eharan:Rensh, Do you have any idea of how many EA games have shipped since they started shipping them again? I know I saw that #52 or #53 shipped but have not seen anything since then. I am #70 and was trying to figure out how many are ahead of me and when I might be able to expect to receive mine.
Thanks
Ed
Hi Ed, I got my EA #55 on the 2nd of july. Oh and I could have gotten it a week earlier but the shipping Company kinda messed up...
All -
BACKUP - Spare motherboards
(Note - I will edit this when all 3 are gone - so if you see this post unmodified that still means I have 1 left for sale!)
I have 3 motherboards which are exact replacements for sale (they no longer make these). The first 3 people to ping me will get one. Cost is $110 plus shipping.
Also, you can combine the shipping with a spare harddrive or other mods, viewable at:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-mods
F2E613A5-41DD-4197-AEFD-482C8AE7F935 (resized).jpeg
Sold out
Watched a few streams and one thing I noticed is it didn't seem like anyone ever really lit any of the objective insets down by the flippers.
Even when Bowen played, he got one I think for getting characters.
Wondering if anyone is getting deep into objectives towards the wizard mode.
I love tough games like TWD, LOTR, etc., but not games where's it's virtually impossible to beat.
So what is TBL like?
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Watched a few streams and one thing I noticed is it didn't seem like anyone ever really lit any of the objective insets down by the flippers.
Even when Bowen played, he got one I think for getting characters.
Wondering if anyone is getting deep into objectives towards the wizard mode.
I love tough games like TWD, LOTR, etc., but not games where's it's virtually impossible to beat.
So what is TBL like?
I've had 3 lit and I'm by no means a strong player. My average game score is round 7 - 9 million on TBL. "Characters" & "Rug Modes" are easy enough if you focus on them. But "Collect Balls" is a lot of bowling - You can collect one with each start ball through the skill shot (Not impossible). "Mark it Zero" has been hard for me because you need to quality it and hit the shot 5 times (Not impossible but I've only done maybe 2 out of 5). I'm actually not sure what "Super Jackpot" is but "Car modes" are hard for me. Its a ton of shots on the upper playfield to get it going and then it resets on drain. I've never tried just going for car but I suspect it too is not impossible for a strong player.
I'd say the Wizard is definitely possible but probably not by me. Karl from iepinball could do it no problem. I'd watch that but as I understand it, TBL doesn't have a Wizard mode programmed yet. Rensh has probably done it multiple times with his insane TBL scores.
Quoted from Time:I've had 3 lit and I'm by no means a strong player. My average game score is round 7 - 9 million on TBL. "Characters" & "Rug Modes" are easy enough if you focus on them. But "Collect Balls" is a lot of bowling - You can collect one with each start ball through the skill shot (Not impossible). "Mark it Zero" has been hard for me because you need to quality it and hit the shot 5 times (Not impossible but I've only done maybe 2 out of 5). I'm actually not sure what "Super Jackpot" is but "Car modes" are hard for me. Its a ton of shots on the upper playfield to get it going and then it resets on drain. I've never tried just going for car but I suspect it too is not impossible for a strong player.
I'd say the Wizard is definitely possible but probably not by me. Karl from iepinball could do it no problem. I'd watch that but as I understand it, TBL doesn't have a Wizard mode programmed yet. rensh has probably done it multiple times with his insane TBL scores.
Sorry, my max was three balls lit 
Super jackpot is that when during multiball you made all jackpot shots the one at the duderamp will relit and when you shoot it it will be super jackpot.
For me lighting all balls will be impossible. I concentrate on getting all bowling balls and only start character MB is all characters are lit and the bowling balls at least 3/4 lit. They act as multipliers like White Russians and rank up your score.
Quoted from kidchrisso:Anybody else have their lock ball stand up targets getting hammered like these? No wonder the ball was flying over the flippers...yeesh.
[quoted image]
That looks hammered indeed. It’s on DP’s list to get a better version of the target in order to avoid this.
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