(Topic ID: 241875)

The Big Lebowski - Official Owners Club thread

By captainBR

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by Livin
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13 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7,566 posts in this topic. You are on page 151 of 152.
#7501 25 days ago

For those interested, new sound mod version is ready! See this topic:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-sound-mod/page/7#post-8229258

#7502 25 days ago

I was adjusting the upper flipper and when I retightened the nut on the underside, I guess I overdid it and the bolt pulled right through the end washer. Is there a way to get flipper replacement parts like this or do I need to find some generic part that might also work?

Found something similar on Marco's, but it's discontinued. Here is the link: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00107-B

Thanks

#7503 25 days ago
Quoted from foozle:

I was adjusting the upper flipper and when I retightened the nut on the underside, I guess I overdid it and the bolt pulled right through the end washer. Is there a way to get flipper replacement parts like this or do I need to find some generic part that might also work?
Found something similar on Marco's, but it's discontinued. Here is the link: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00107-B
Thanks

Pinball Life has something similar? Bally/Williams, so probably will work on TBL's:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-pawl-hardware-assembly-bolt-style.html

#7504 25 days ago
Quoted from foozle:

I was adjusting the upper flipper and when I retightened the nut on the underside, I guess I overdid it and the bolt pulled right through the end washer. Is there a way to get flipper replacement parts like this or do I need to find some generic part that might also work?
Found something similar on Marco's, but it's discontinued. Here is the link: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00107-B
Thanks

This exact thing happened to me when tightening the lower right flipper. Sheared that bolt right in half.

#7505 24 days ago

The flipper assy we use comes from pinball life so their parts should fit.

#7506 24 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

The flipper assy we use comes from pinball life so their parts should fit.

Looks like pinball life part uses a different mechanism that involves an allen head on the other end to allow you to hold the bolt in place when tightening, rather than attaching the notched washer to the end of the bolt - probably sturdier, to be honest, as the original attachment was rather weak. Marco carries this part also, so ordered a couple of them. Meanwhile, I was able to re-attach the notched washer to the original bolt via a weld, so for now it is holding.

Thanks!

#7507 23 days ago
Quoted from foozle:

Looks like pinball life part uses a different mechanism that involves an allen head on the other end to allow you to hold the bolt in place when tightening, rather than attaching the notched washer to the end of the bolt - probably sturdier, to be honest, as the original attachment was rather weak. Marco carries this part also, so ordered a couple of them. Meanwhile, I was able to re-attach the notched washer to the original bolt via a weld, so for now it is holding.
Thanks!

The one we currently use is

https://www.pinballlife.com/full-left-flipper-assembly-for-williamsbally-machines-from-021992-to-101998.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-rebuild-kit-williamsbally-081993-101998-spooky-2014-present-jjp-2012-present.html

No Allen key needed.

#7508 23 days ago
Quoted from foozle:

Looks like pinball life part uses a different mechanism that involves an allen head on the other end to allow you to hold the bolt in place when tightening, rather than attaching the notched washer to the end of the bolt - probably sturdier, to be honest, as the original attachment was rather weak. Marco carries this part also, so ordered a couple of them. Meanwhile, I was able to re-attach the notched washer to the original bolt via a weld, so for now it is holding.
Thanks!

I agree that part seemed weak. I was surprised when it failed due to the relative torque applied on assemblies of other games I’ve worked on. I didn’t feel it tightening so kept cranking and then “pop,” the severed parts went to the cabinet floor.

Something to stabilize both ends like an Allen key vs the notched flange seems more durable.

Unfortunately for me, happened on day 2 of getting the game, then had to wait a week to play. Spoiled enough to afford a pinball machine complaint for sure! Otherwise, maybe input for parts decisioning going forward.

#7509 22 days ago

to my shock and horror, I discovered I'm only running 1.0

Am I correct that I cannot simply jump straight to 1.13?

#7510 22 days ago

Ok, I was looking at the part Pinmonk linked to. Does pinball life just sell the bolt with the notched washer standalone, or do you need to buy the assembly/kit? Thanks

#7511 22 days ago
Quoted from Dan1733:

to my shock and horror, I discovered I'm only running 1.0
Am I correct that I cannot simply jump straight to 1.13?

Correct.

As mentioned at https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_software you would at least need 101 first.

So, update to for instance 101 and than to 113. Two step process so to speak.

#7512 22 days ago

If anyone wants a beautiful BL translite to frame for your game room, I am clearing out my last few for $60 each. Fits perfectly in the Stern Spike 2 LCD frames. Only three available at $60 each, which includes free US shipping. Can be purchased with the link below. Dude approved! Cheers.

https://pinside.com/pinball/shops/shop/1505-duke-pinball/09979-the-big-lebowski-pinball-translite-special-60

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#7513 20 days ago

Are the coin door keys universal? Little nephew lost them and not sure what to do.

#7514 20 days ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Are the coin door keys universal? Little nephew lost them and not sure what to do.

They use a lot of pinball life parts, so probably the pinball life lock/key. You may already have another key that will work. They're also pretty easy to pick if they're not double bitted. Just put a small screwdriver in, apply pressure, and rake a naked paperclip with the tip turned 90 degrees repeatedly while adjusting pressure on the screwdriver and you can sometimes get it open that way.

Worst case scenario if you can't come up with another key from another machine you could buy a lock/key from pinball life and use the key from that and you'd have a spare lock.

Also, for home use, replacing the keyed lock with a thumb lock is nice. No key to worry about.

https://www.pinballlife.com/keyless-coin-door-lock.html

#7515 20 days ago

The coindoors are not made by PBL but come from an European source.

#7516 20 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

The coindoors are not made by PBL but come from an European source.

Thanks for the clarification. Are the keys the same as the US universal ones from places like pinball life? Single bitted? Double?

#7517 20 days ago
Quoted from Livin:

I agree that part seemed weak. I was surprised when it failed due to the relative torque applied on assemblies of other games I’ve worked on. I didn’t feel it tightening so kept cranking and then “pop,” the severed parts went to the cabinet floor.

We have recently changed how the "Pac-man" bolt is made. WMS made it by press fitting a bolt through a thick washer.
After years and years of frustration with this part, we now mill it from a solid piece of metal. It is no longer two pieces (the bolt and the washer) pressed together, it is one solid piece. It is darn near indestructible.
Terry

#7518 20 days ago

Agreed on the thumb lock, but stuck in this scenario with an indestructible lock. Any other ideas? Please message me if it's top secret

#7519 20 days ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Agreed on the thumb lock, but stuck in this scenario with an indestructible lock. Any other ideas? Please message me if it's top secret

If it were me I’d do a 2” hole saw from the bottom before I called a lock smith. Call it a feature when you go to resell it.

But more importantly, how does a key get completely lost on premises? You’ve given up looking?

#7520 20 days ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Agreed on the thumb lock, but stuck in this scenario with an indestructible lock. Any other ideas? Please message me if it's top secret

Indestructible? Isn't it stock? Worst case you can drill it and it will open right up. Then install the thumb lock.

(You don't NEED a hammer action drill, just a regular drill with a hardened bit (not made for soft materials) is fine.)

#7521 19 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Indestructible? Isn't it stock? Worst case you can drill it and it will open right up. Then install the thumb lock.

(You don't NEED a hammer action drill, just a regular drill with a hardened bit (not made for soft materials) is fine.)

It's a cylinder lock, and they are def. a lot more beefy than your standard lock you are showing; those are super easy to drill out..but haven't tried a cylinder lock (yet).

#7522 19 days ago
Quoted from KING-HENRY:

It's a cylinder lock, and they are def. a lot more beefy than your standard lock you are showing; those are super easy to drill out..but haven't tried a cylinder lock (yet).

Ah. Yeah, tubular locks are more of a pain. The tubular lock pick sets open them pretty easily with no skill required and are cheap, but he'd have to wait to get them.

Something like this:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/great-price-for-locksmith-Tools-3pcs_62456808463.html

#7523 19 days ago

Anyone know if there is a menu adjustment to put the game in attract mode?

#7524 19 days ago
Quoted from Nerdyboy:

Anyone know if there is a menu adjustment to put the game in attract mode?

Screenshot_20240625_213918_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240625_213918_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpg
#7525 19 days ago
Quoted from WillM:

[quoted image]

I can’t find that menu anywhere
I assume it’s in adjustments but I’ve clicked through everything and don’t see that.

#7526 19 days ago
Quoted from WillM:

[quoted image]

That’s lame..no attract mode with the ability to coin up? Def designed for the home and shows market. I mean, it doesn’t even ship with a coin box (which I’m fine with). ..just…

#7527 19 days ago
Quoted from Nerdyboy:

I can’t find that menu anywhere
I assume it’s in adjustments but I’ve clicked through everything and don’t see that.

Interesting, I'm not able to locate the menu options either - yet my TBL is clearly running an "Attract Mode" while idle.

#7528 18 days ago

Those settings were taken out. They were for early reveals / shows; they don't really have any use for home use.

But I don't get the commentary on an attract mode "missing"?
Maybe some of you are talking about callouts or sounds playing every once in a while (that's what attract mode was called in the 90s?).

#7529 18 days ago

Is it still long waiting time for or have everyone bought one now ?

#7530 18 days ago
Quoted from TouchingEvil:

Is it still long waiting time for or have everyone bought one now ?

Check Pinside's Classifieds. There's a few NIB for sale including one from Automated Services (Distro)

#7531 17 days ago

So just unboxed my game to join the club. Everything is physically in great shape but have a couple of issues you fine gentleman may be able to help with.

1. I have a glitch where I get random and then constant balls added through “ball save” glitch that just keeps ejecting balls. Seems like maybe multi ball triggers it somehow.

2. The saucer ejects super weak, is that normal?

Thanks in Advance

#7532 17 days ago
Quoted from SLRage:

1. I have a glitch where I get random and then constant balls added through “ball save” glitch that just keeps ejecting balls. Seems like maybe multi ball triggers it somehow.

This is often a loose connection to the opto board that manages the ball trough state. I'm not sure how TBL's board is, but if it's a 2 prong connector on each board, take the connector off, widen the prongs for better tension, then put the connectors back on.

Also, the tech thread for TBL is a great reference:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread

The topic index there has direct links to a lot of common issues.

#7533 17 days ago
Quoted from SLRage:

So just unboxed my game to join the club. Everything is physically in great shape but have a couple of issues you fine gentleman may be able to help with.
1. I have a glitch where I get random and then constant balls added through “ball save” glitch that just keeps ejecting balls. Seems like maybe multi ball triggers it somehow.
2. The saucer ejects super weak, is that normal?
Thanks in Advance

Saucer fix:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/46#post-8035145

Welcome to the cool kids club, man.

Big Willy

#7534 16 days ago

Looking for advice on a quirk that started last night.

I was having a decent game and then my right flipper started acting sluggish. At first I thought it was on purpose after collecting so many White Russians!
But it has been doing it ever since.

The button activates the flipper, but randomly the flipper will get stuck and it varies in length.
I checked for mechanical binding and the return spring and everything is normal.
When it does get stuck like when I am selecting a character to bowl, the selection keeps reacting to the button and the flipper is just stuck on.
I was able to verify that when it does stick, the coil is indeed powered, so that rules out mechanical related issues.

The issue only occurs during non-mode main play. If in any mode such as rug, car or multi, the issue disappears completely.

I tried resetting the firmware and even re-imaged the drive and the issue continues.

Anyone seen this before and if so, what was the solution? A very odd one

#7535 16 days ago
Quoted from Drebay:

Looking for advice on a quirk that started last night.
I was having a decent game and then my right flipper started acting sluggish. At first I thought it was on purpose after collecting so many White Russians!
But it has been doing it ever since.
The button activates the flipper, but randomly the flipper will get stuck and it varies in length.
I checked for mechanical binding and the return spring and everything is normal.
When it does get stuck like when I am selecting a character to bowl, the selection keeps reacting to the button and the flipper is just stuck on.
I was able to verify that when it does stick, the coil is indeed powered, so that rules out mechanical related issues.
The issue only occurs during non-mode main play. If in any mode such as rug, car or multi, the issue disappears completely.
I tried resetting the firmware and even re-imaged the drive and the issue continues.
Anyone seen this before and if so, what was the solution? A very odd one

It’s indeed an odd one. Try reseating the proc as that controls everything. See service faq page 287

#7536 16 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

It’s indeed an odd one. Try reseating the proc as that controls everything. See service faq page 287

Thanks for the reply... I will give it a try over the weekend and let you know.

#7537 16 days ago
Quoted from Drebay:

Thanks for the reply... I will give it a try over the weekend and let you know.

I would also check to see if it is magnetized. When mine was, it was sluggish/got stuck up. Was intermittent so hard to tie to anything.

#7538 16 days ago
Quoted from justyn:

I would also check to see if it is magnetized. When mine was, it was sluggish/got stuck up. Was intermittent so hard to tie to anything.

He mentioned that the coil was energized so that’s why I ruled out magnetized plunger-coilstop. So, something is activating the coil while it shouldn’t be and the proc controls it in the end. Flippers don’t go via the PC, they are done solely via Proc. Over PC would be to slow. And yes, status switches is sent to PC as well ofcourse but flippers (and slingshot) don’t need a firing command from the PC so to speak.

#7539 15 days ago

Thanks for the help. It is ejecting the ball but with very little power. Must be the way it was designed but just wanted to make sure. Thanks

11
#7540 15 days ago

Finally joined the owner's club yesterday. I must say, the 10 month wait for NIB was well worth it. TBL is a masterpiece. Thanks to everyone here who has given me setup recommendations and mod advice to fill the hours while I waited.

#7541 14 days ago

Ok, back to my right ball gate not working problem. When I measured the ohms on that coil, it measured very different than the left coil, so I replaced it with a new one and both read about .46 ohms now. Unfortunately that didn't fix my problem as in test mode, that right ball gate solenoid still won't fire. I decided to swap DR15 and DR16 plugs on the board. When I did that, the left ball gate continued to work when I tested "right ball gate" but the right side ball gate still didn't work when testing "left ball gate". So it doesn't seem its a board problem since the left ball gate solenoid fires from both DR15 and DR16 points on the board. I also tested continuity of the wire from the boards to the solenoids and all are fine. So what could be the issue?

#7542 14 days ago
Quoted from SLRage:

Thanks for the help. It is ejecting the ball but with very little power. Must be the way it was designed but just wanted to make sure. Thanks

Yep its just a slight kick to eject.
Helps you in sense as it rolls the ball to your left flipper.

#7543 14 days ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

Ok, back to my right ball gate not working problem. When I measured the ohms on that coil, it measured very different than the left coil, so I replaced it with a new one and both read about .46 ohms now. Unfortunately that didn't fix my problem as in test mode, that right ball gate solenoid still won't fire. I decided to swap DR15 and DR16 plugs on the board. When I did that, the left ball gate continued to work when I tested "right ball gate" but the right side ball gate still didn't work when testing "left ball gate". So it doesn't seem its a board problem since the left ball gate solenoid fires from both DR15 and DR16 points on the board. I also tested continuity of the wire from the boards to the solenoids and all are fine. So what could be the issue?

Did you check continuity of the wiring? Perhaps a bad crimp of the cable in the connector?

Also, for service issues there is a special thread at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread

#7544 12 days ago

The Dude abides. The Dutch to the next round.

Up to the quarter finals

IMG_2654 (resized).jpegIMG_2654 (resized).jpeg
#7545 12 days ago

Any interest here for an opto-scoop? i've had it in for maybe 2 months. $100 shipped. PM me!

#7546 12 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

The Dude abides. The Dutch to the next round.
Up to the quarter finals
[quoted image]

Haha, great match!

#7547 12 days ago

What lock down bar will fit TBL? I’ve scratched the chrome one so I’m going to have it repaired but want a spare to use while it’s out. Thanks for your time if anyone has the answer.

#7548 12 days ago
Quoted from Wilmmr:

What lock down bar will fit TBL? I’ve scratched the chrome one so I’m going to have it repaired but want a spare to use while it’s out. Thanks for your time if anyone has the answer.

It should be standard wpc type. Looking at your collection, an amazing one by the way, try the one from medieval madness as a fit.

#7549 12 days ago

I need a chrome coin door. Any suggestions?

#7550 12 days ago
Quoted from frankmac:

I need a chrome coin door. Any suggestions?

Hot rod arcade does plating. Usually have complete doors available without having to send yours in. Not cheap though.

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