Hi JMPT
welcome to pinside.
I agree with You --- a beginner should not do an "complete overall". He shall fix ONE problem - then maybe the next problem etc.

You do have some problems - here You are in the "Restoration section of pinside" - I suggest: Write in THIS other section: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-em --- a topic with a good title - Your pin is an Gottlieb, ipdb is NOT allowed to show manuals and schematics: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2784 --- please write in the new topic about "having a schematics".
(((I seldom visit the Restoration section - maybe other pinsiders also visit it seldom - bring-up Your problems in the EM-Tech section))) Greetings Rolf

I suggest you lift your playfield and look at the trough switch. Is it shorting with any other switches?

P.S. I've asked the moderators to move the thread for you.

Done - now in EM Tech!

https://pinside.com/pinball/my-pinside/#initials

Things sure have been CONFUSING since now there's two settings pages, neither of which had that on it! I got the link by visiting my own profile and looking and on the "TO DO NEXT..." section, even though I have completed the entire section.

Other settings:

https://pinside.com/pinball/my-pinside/settings
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/settings

Wild Life is a great unique game with a beautiful art package, one of my absolute favorites! Gordon Morison, the artist, was definitely a genius and put his art "on" many machines!

If you need any game-specific help, let me know. I don't think I have a schematic to check things out on for you, but I'm pretty decent on working without one for any EM game. Shouldn't be too much of a beast to tackle, it has all pretty general and shared mechanisms inside, cool unique features, but all that "interpret" into general units, used in many games. Not too full on the inside and mechanically a 2-player is always better the a 4-player. (In this case it's was Gottlieb's "Jungle")

Have fun with it!

Here is mine!:

IMG_8022 (resized).JPG

Hi
jlm33 thanks for moving the topic to "EM-Tech".
JMPT - I am irritated - "post-3: connected to the Tilt-Relay" - I am not good in Gottlieb single-player and also not good in Gtb-two-player-games. The closest to "Wild Live schematics" I have is "Big Brave" - I show what is of interest (if the pin having problems would be) "Big Brave".
Maybe with an Scanner producing PDF*** or maybe the camera on Your "Handy, mobile phone, personal, transportable phone" is good enough to take a picture (most likely) in JPG-Format.

Please show us what I show on Big Brave - "marked light-green then dark-green" activates O-Relay and this O-Relay makes (also dark-green) the Ball KICKED over to Shooter-Alley. As the Ball rolls over - it (marked light-blue) closes "Through Switch" - the P-(Add-Player-Unit-)-RELAY actuates, Yes. The "marked dark-blue" Add-Player-Unit (Stepper) is NOT allowed to step (as the pin shall kick-out the very-first ball) - so in Big Brave I would start to investigate on "marked red" stuff.

BUT in Big Brave Schematics: NO TILT- / TILT-HOLD-Relay in the schematics --- please show interesting stuff in "Wild-Life-Schematics", greetings Rolf

P.S. - PDF***: In pinside we can show JPG and we also can show PDF (I use the "Drag and Drop" System - with the computer-mouse I pack the title of the document and pull it over and let drop it into pinside-rosa-pink-area).

zBig-Brave-Work4 (resized).jpg

after your reset is your first ball relay tripped. Check the switches on this relay. This relay has a switch that should isolate the player advance coil before any points are scored. It should only trip after points are scored. Maybe a second problem is causing incomplete pulse of unit not reaching ball 2. Check switchstacks 1 and 2 behind players unit and the switches on the second player relay.

the trough switch is just a switch in a circuit that grounds the P relay, Which in turn gives a path to ground for P. The motor is wired direct to ground but if you look at schematic there are switches on different relays that are listed that close and ground the motor (which turns it) The motor is wired to make a 1/3 revolution turn. The state of switches shown in schematic are ball in shooter lane, game unplugged. Every coil is wired hot. It is the path to ground that controls the logic. Different relays switches isolate others. Just follow the left side (hot) to the right side (-). All coils have the black wire on one side. That is the left side of schematic. on the other side of coil is the path laid out in the schematic. I repeat again and again- the state of the machine in this schematic (snapshot) reset complete, ball shot into shooter lane, game turned off.

The add player coil on schematic is the coil on the player unit. The ground path straight across thru P5 is the reset path that keeps the unit advancing thru the startup. P5 switch drops this path out after reset for the entire gameplay. The other path to ground is down on schematic thru a switch on P. remember P is grounded by the ball passing trough switch. The path goes thru a motor switch position 2 stack c (motor is turning because of a motor switch on P) the circuit then gets blocked by the switch on first ball relay. This switch is opened and blocking the path because no points have been scored yet, so this relay should not be tripped yet. After points are scored the switch will close and open the circuit to fire the player unit coil each time a ball passes trough switch. The game over switch is the last switch in the path and it will open and block the circuit when game over relay is tripped.

Your problem may involve the first ball relay. When the ball kicks out before any points are scored a switch on this relay should block the coil on the player unit from advancing any.

Hi
frb - great, You participate. JMPT - I remember well the old times playing a "Jungle" --- in my basement there is one waiting to be repaired ...

I am not good in Gottlieb Single-Player-Games - I am not good in Gottlieb-Two-Player-Games - (here) I struggle with the words of the relays, JMPT please write about:
Is it U-First-Ball-Relay or is it ZB-First-Ball-Relay or is it WHAT-First-Ball-Relay ? (What ?)
What is the name of ZB-????-Relay ?
What is the name of U-????-Relay ?
IS (?) SB1- the "No Coil Reset-Control-Switches" or WHAT ?
Is (?) SB2- the "Reset-Control-Relay" or WHAT ?
Greetings Rolf

P.S.: I hope my JPG (made from JPG in post-10) shows (extract) the "interesting places".

0Wild-Live-Work-01 (resized).jpg

your snip of schematic is the grounding path that fires the coil on the player unit. It is directly fired by a motor switch position 1 stack A which is the bottom switches on score motor. It gets 5 pulses per 1/3 revolution of the motor. These five pulses are needed to advance player unit between players. If you notice all the point swithes are closed because all reels are on 0. once you score any points the only path is thru switches on the player units 3rd and fourth switchstacks. Sb1 and sb2 are reset relays on the relay bank. They will close the path after reset leaving the only path down thru P when it is engaged (grounded by the trough switch). This path is the one blocked until the first ball relay is tripped.

zb was used on the early seventy pins as a first ball relay with the relay bank. When they done away with the relay bank the same designation was given to U. the operation of what these do is slightly different but both are tripped by the first points scored in a game and isolate other circuits. Wedges didn't use a first ball relay because the latched reset relay could isolate circuits.

I am replying because I think JMPT is trying to understand. He and yourself sound passionate about these games as myself. I played Wild Life at a neighborhood store as a young teen. I also have one that I enjoy regularly. Just trying to help someone else that has the passion.

Hi
frb - thanks. JMPT, we come to the question: DOES the Control-Bank reset shortly before the pin wants to kick the Ball over to the Shooter-Alley ?
Here a picture of King Kool: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1371&picno=31707 towards the bottom of the picture, behind the plastic: The Control-Bank - does the BIG arm on that Control-Bank move ?

IF (if) the big arm does not move: The ZB-Relay may be dropped and the "Switch encircled red in my JPG" is entitled to be closed --- we must search for "why does the big arm NOT move (?).

IF (if) the big arm DOES move (reset): The questions are: IS the ZB-Relay resetted - or does it faulty actuate/drop and so the ZB-Relay is dropped and the "Switch encircled red in my JPG" is entitled to be closed --- we must search for "why does the ZB-Relay NOT stay resetted (?).

IF (if) the big arm DOES move (reset) AND the ZB-Relay STAYS resetted - JMPT: You must investigate in the "Switch encircled red in my JPG" - it has wires soldered-on: wire-color-white-black, wire-color-black-orange --- this Switch must be open when the Control-Bank is resetted.

A little chance for "Fault": my "encircled orange" stuff - but first: Investigate on the Control-Bank "RESETTING ?" and the "ZB-Relay and its switch", greetings Rolf

PS.: Does Your Control-Bank has paper tags so You see what Relay in the bank is the ZB-Relay ?

0Wild-Live-Work-02 (resized).jpg

P5 parks the ball on player 1 ball 1. P5 switch also grounds and fires the relay bank which then isolates the path you have in brown till the next game thru the SB2 switch. ZB is reset on the control bank, then tripped when points are scored. I would think the bank is resetting if he can play a normal game on player 1 by bypassing the trough switch at startup. The only switch that fires the relay bank is P5. It is on a separate fuse.
I think the problem is ZB is not opened and blocking the path to the player unit coil. The last thing the ball does after it kicks out is pass the trough switch which should not advance the player unit. It was stated if going around the trough switch a normal 1 player game could be played. The reason I think he has another issue with player 2 is that the machine should still pulse up to ball 2 player 1 when it is kicked out with this fault. The player 2 problem could be affecting the ZB issue. If it is hanging on the third pulse it could be a player 2 reset problem with the P4 switches.

There is a make/break switch on the H relay that must break. It affects the first ball circuit.

WOW! Good find! Doesn't it feel great when you get another machine going! I've been trouble shooting an Aquarius for the last two days and finally got it! Dang reset banks!

Glad you got yours working!