(Topic ID: 6202)

The Beginner Step By Step Guide To Restore/Shop Your Pinball Machine Parts 1 & 2


By jrrdw

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 35 posts
  • 24 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Ed731
  • Topic is favorited by 46 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

You

Linked Games

#1 8 years ago

***If you have any trouble using or understanding this guide please go to your best available information resource, the Pinside.com. As all ways feel free to ask any questions, we will help you.***

Restore/Shop Guide_Part 1_Play Field

1. Join Pinside.com
2. Make the decision on what to buy.
3. Buy it.
4. Get it home.
5. Download a owners manual if you don't have one.
6. Play it to determine what may be wrong.
7. Get your tools together.
8. Open the coin door and remove the locking bar.
9. Carefully slide the glass out, place in a safe location.
10. Dismantle the play field removing all parts (balls included), making notes and taking pictures for reassembly ease.
11. Inspect all the parts making notes on their condition.
12. Clean the play field to find area's that may need repair/touch ups.
13. Make any necessary repairs/touch ups.
13_A)-Remove and replace necessary rubbers and rubber post sleeves(use Cliffys colored post sleeves,they kick ass)
13_B)-Take apart as many coils as you can and replace the plastic coil sleeves,and clean and wipe down the coil "rod" with alcohol-reassemble dry.
13_C)-Ck. and tighten anything you can get a nut driver or screwdriver on,(always loose stuff under play field)
13_D)-Vacuum out the inside of the cabinet
13_E)-Check and seat electrical connections
14. Wax the play field.
15. Reassemble the play field with the cleaned/repaired and new parts (rubbers, plastics and bulbs).
16. Put the cleaned glass back in.
17. Re-install the locking bar.
18. Re-test your pinball machine take notes if something is wrong.
19. Have fun playing your shopped pinball machine!
20. Log into Pinside and tell us about it.
21. Look for another pin so your 1st pin wont get lonely.
22. Repeat all steps again and again until you run out of room.

Restore/Shop Guide_Part 2_Back Box

1. Unlock the translite/back glass.
2. Carefully remove the translite/back glass and set a side in a safe place.
3. Swing light board open (if equipped).
4. With good lighting inspect all the PCB (Printed Circuit Board), wires, wire plugs, fuses and all the electronic components for burnt/discolored/melted/broken and or cracked parts.
4_A. ***DO NOT TAKE PICTURES OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD THE CAMERA FLASH CAN DAMAGE THE EPROM CHIPS!***
5. Check the batteries for leakage.
5_A. If battery leakage is found the circuit board must be removed for repair.
5_B. Please search Pinside.com for instructions on the removal and repair procedure or where to send for repair. Also a remote battery box should be installed to avoid any further damage to the circuit board.
6. Reinstall all the back box parts and close light board, reinstall the translite/back glass and turn on the machine and test.

If you have any questions please ask them here: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/step-by-step-guides-for-newbies

#2 8 years ago

Nice job,for you to take the time and effort shows alot.I think a pinball resurgence is happening before our very computers.

#3 8 years ago

This is excellent stuff! Thanks for your effort, jrrdw! I'm sure others will also contribute, I'll keep an eye out on this topic, compile follow-ups into the opening post and and make edits where necessary!

Quoted from jrrdw:

22. Repeat all steps again and again until you run out of room.

#4 8 years ago

Very good read.

#5 8 years ago

In case you haven't seen it:

http://www.flippers.be/nbshop1.html

#6 8 years ago

Order parts online. Wait for them. Count the days. Bug the postman. Open package like its your birthday.

13
#7 8 years ago

^^^ Realize you forgot a couple parts and now must pay another $12 in shipping.

#8 8 years ago

This is a first for me. After a quick skim of it, it is much more in depth like a repair manual. The pictures might throw someone off when they realize it's not their machine pictured. It's a good guide for a novice machine owner looking for back up information or the mechanically inclined who can figure it out.

Thanks for everyone's help with the beginners guide and for all the kind people here on Pinside. I'm so glad I found the Pinside!

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from jayhawkai:

Realize you forgot a couple parts and now must pay another $12 in shipping.

Oh man, I am SO GLAD I'm not the only one!!

I second the photo-taking. It was a huge help.

Johnny

#10 8 years ago

I try to hold off on the order until I get everything apart and cleaned. But I still either forget to order something or somehow didn't catch it until after the order.

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from jrrdw:

4_A. ***DO NOT TAKE PICTURES OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD THE CAMERA FLASH CAN DAMAGE THE EPROM CHIPS!***

Wow, never knew that.

Great post!

1 month later
#12 8 years ago

Cool idea for new pinheads. I get some of my best tips from guys who have been down the road of restoration for years and many of them will take time to share those experiences with others in the hobby. There is so much untapped knowledge to be gained from restorers that are willing to help new and old pinheads.

#13 8 years ago

On step 7- get your tools together, you could expand that into its own thread. The big one there is to make your own rotisery for the playfield.

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from absocountry2:

On step 7- get your tools together, you could expand that into its own thread

A quick site search came up with this: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-tools-restoration-gear#post-6827

I think it's a worth edit to create 7_A and use the link as a sub step. I'd do it myself but the edit button is not present...I'll let Robin know, thanks for the idea.

#15 8 years ago

That is a great thread. I forgot that had been done before. That would be pretty good to have the link to there under 7A or something like that.

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

4_A. ***DO NOT TAKE PICTURES OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD THE CAMERA FLASH CAN DAMAGE THE EPROM CHIPS!***

Yes and if you see a window on the back of them that is not covered with some sticker or something a small piece of electrical tape, you might want to "recover" that window. (Used to erase the EPROM's).

2 weeks later
#17 8 years ago

Just sent my high speed board out for repairs. Looking at my pin this would be a great time to work
on cleaning and touch ups. I have a few questions on shopping/ restoring this pin. My high speed
still has the mylar which is starting to peel in a section. Ive seen it removed with the freeze spray and would like to remove it. You guys have any concerns with me doing that? Second I have a
few really worn areas around the jet bumpers. I can strip the top of the playfied but really dont want
to strip the wiring harness and all below as seen in videos. If I want to touch up the areas what do you suggest using as far as paint? Do I have to clear coat touch up areas? Any suggestions would be
appreciated.

Tks!

L

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from Larry212:

You guys have any concerns with me doing that?

It's easy to peel the paint up and the glue is a PITA to remove.

Quoted from Larry212:

If I want to touch up the areas what do you suggest using as far as paint?

Search through the forums that info is here I've seen it myself just don't remember...

Quoted from Larry212:

Do I have to clear coat touch up areas?

If your machine has Mylar you should clean and clear coat the entire play field, let it cure then wax it. The paint wont last long if you don't.

1 month later
#19 7 years ago
Quoted from jayhawkai:

^^^ Realize you forgot a couple parts and now must pay another $12 in shipping.

LOL so true!!!

5 months later
#20 7 years ago

Things I think should be added to the original ”OP” list.
5A - 1 Before plugging in: with a DMM check that there is NO continuity between the earth pin and active pin or Earth pin and neutral pin of the power plug.
5A -2 check with a DMM that there IS continuity from the earth pin of the power plug and metal parts of the machine like coin door and lock bar.
5B if either fail, have the machine checked out by a qualified person before using. SAFETY FIRST!!
7A Unplug the machine from the wall!!!!

1 week later
#21 7 years ago

I'd like to comment on step 4A. Especially because I dealt with this on my F14.

All EPROM chips on your system boards should have a sticker over the chip window. If the internal chip is exposed (you'll know if it is cuz you'll see this cool shiny chip inside), the EPROM will eventually erase / become corrupt by being exposed to UV light. And then the chip will fail self-test on turn-on and may not work properly.

A single camera flash won't hurt it. But having that window exposed for a long period of time does. At the very least cover with electrical tape! Otherwise you'll need to buy new ROMs or reprogram your current ones (assuming the ROM code is on IPDB), which takes special hardware

#22 7 years ago
Quoted from jrrdw:

4_A. ***DO NOT TAKE PICTURES OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD THE CAMERA FLASH CAN DAMAGE THE EPROM CHIPS!***

exactly what Shpwizard stated above. simply make sure than any eproms windows are covered up with tape (back in the day, we used to use the write-protect tabs for 5-1/4" floppy discs, but electrical or the foil tape that is sold for duct work works just as well

3 weeks later
#23 7 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

exactly what Shpwizard stated above. simply make sure than any eproms windows are covered up with tape (back in the day, we used to use the write-protect tabs for 5-1/4" floppy discs, but electrical or the foil tape that is sold for duct work works just as well

That's a great tip, thanks guys.

#24 7 years ago

Great thread, thanks!

4 months later
#25 7 years ago

Nice. Cheers.

#26 7 years ago

One suggestion before getting to involved check and make sure the correct value fuses are installed.
Games I have purchased from several people never had the correct value fuses in place and they were never lower value either.

Slo-blo fuses where called for and "normal" ones where they reside as well.

#27 7 years ago
Quoted from cal50:

make sure the correct value fuses

Nice catch! I sent a request to administration to add in "(value and type, slow blow or not)".

#28 7 years ago

I recently started a page for this.

http://www.habosarcade.com/Pinball%20Shop%20Out.htm

Still under construction and the link might slightly change.

#29 7 years ago
Quoted from hAbO:

I recently started a page for this.

Good, but unless I over looked it, it's lacking mentions of Pinside.com as the premier database of pinball discussion and don't forget the link to the forums.

#30 7 years ago

I am brand new to this. Am looking at buying a Whirlwind. How to I convince my wife that:
1. I can refurbish it
2. It shouldn't cost more than $XXX for parts

Any input would be greatly appreciated. No wife jokes please.

#31 7 years ago
Quoted from Ed731:

I am brand new to this. Am looking at buying a Whirlwind. How to I convince my wife that:
1. I can refurbish it
2. It shouldn't cost more than $XXX for parts
Any input would be greatly appreciated. No wife jokes please.

1. Refer her to us so we can let her know any idiot (myself included) can fix these beasts.
2. Don't let her see the receipts

#32 7 years ago

Love it!
But seriously, what can I expect in large round numbers to sink into one of these beasts?
I know if all depends on the condition, but can I safely say an average of $300??
Don't forget I know nothing about this and need to sound like I know more than I know.

#33 7 years ago

It really DOES depend on condition, and what sort of condition you hope to get out of it. If the playfield and cabinet are in acceptable condition to you, then you've avoided a LOT of cost right there. Are all of the plastics there? A new plastic set, for example, usually runs around 150 if they're available.

WW is a 3 flipper game, so as far as mechanics go, you really shouldn't need to put more than 120 into rebuilding the flippers (and that's all new mechs). You can add a lot of life to other coils (like the 6 pops) by changing out the sleeves (dirt cheap, like .30/sleeve). If that, along with adjusting switches, doesn't get you the desired effect, you probably want to follow Vid's repair guide on rebuilding pops:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

Now, electronics are cheap, if you're comfortable with your (temp controlled) soldering iron. If you don't have any desire to trouble shoot or repair a board if needed, I think a new MPU runs about $200 on average. There are places you can send it off for cheaper (I think), but that's no fun - fix it yourself if you can.

So,... what's wrong with this WW?

#34 7 years ago

Buy your 1st pin from the Pinside Market place and all general maintenance will be in the owners manual. Spending more up front sounds like your best option at this point even if you have to wait to save a little more.

#35 7 years ago

As soon as I can get to the WW and turn it on, I have no idea what condition it really is in. It does look like needs a new playfield

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