Nice. I have wanted one for years, and I never see them for sale in mich. I even got a nos pf. I could find a nos pf but not the game!
enjoy

Not much of a club yet! I'm about to start shopping one of these out, but I'm missing the center ramp entrance gate. Anyone got a line on a replacement? I would love just a picture of how it's assembled along with the switch at least!

Thanks

Is this a club? Is the game that rare on ownership or are Game Show owners the shyest people in the pinball community? Lol

I tried to like it. Played for a couple of hours on location & walked away hating it.
Perhaps it was just another poorly maintained route pin, I don't know.

It's the only pin remaining in my lineup. I'd love to add some more system 11's. They are my favorite era. It's a simple, yet clever pin that doesn't get enough love.

I own Game Show... I love the mirrored back glass. This game is a ton of fun and doesn't break the bank.

Kerry

Love love love my Game Show. Easy, but so fun. I play it as much as Metallica. I'll never sell mine.

Just had an amazing game of Gameshow. 34 Mil.
I thought I'd bump this topic because this machine deserves more love.
Every machine needs and analog bell.

to bad your far away this is NOT mine

miami.craigslist.org link

I think its the cheesest game ever and that may be why I enjoy mine so much. I found a near flawless beauty also.

I love the real alarm bell inside the cabinet when it goes off. It's loud and you can feel the entire game shake from it. Simple rules but the game play keeps me pushing the start button.

Sold mine 10 years ago, but here's a couple pics of playfield and backglass under blacklight. Fun Game.

PC070001.JPGPC070005.JPG

Anyone of the Gameshow owners know where to get a spare “Car” drop target assembly? Even the opto board would work.

Does anyone has a source for the Car drop target sticker?

I need a new one.

Thanks

Anyone knows if there is a newer software version as L-3. Since there are plenty of bugs. Some are game breaking. Also the game has some serious lags sometimes...

Anyone have or know where I can get the right slingshot plastic? It's the only plastic broken in my game

I'd be happy to buy L&R set if anyone has both.

Let me know.
Thank You!

Kerry Richard
925-963-6300

I parted out a Game Show a couple of years ago. I still have most of the mechs (not single car drop), targets, probably all the light boards, many switches, rats nest of playfield wiring. PM me if you need anything like that for your game.

I just purchased a game show and one part is not functioning properly. The car drop down opto was missing so I ordered a new one. How many times during normal game play does the car target drop to unlock the car shot? for some reason the new opto is not tripping when the car target it hit so either I have a faulty new opto or a wiring issue.

Thanks for any input

Hi all
I am making spinner decals for Bally/Williams stuff that have these holographic decals - many games from the 80's and 90's. In general they are $2.50 shipped in the US for a pair and $4.00 shipped international for a pair. Shipping stays the same if you buy more.

PM me if interested.
Dan

wide (resized).jpeg

Joined the club today. Pretty cool game. Think it’ll stay around for a while. Guessing Ramps are impossible to find?

9404A23B-A85C-411F-9832-E576A5D08F4C (resized).jpeg

I'm in need of the insert decals. Anyone know where I can get those. Also any one having this issue. When my car drop target goes down, sometimes the ball gets stuck in the hole. It's rare but happens sometimes.
Thank YOU

If somebody needs some parts, i have a semi populated Game Show playfield.

I can get pictures when you need them Jeff. You can find me here or on Facebook.

I can also take photos for you.

Just picked up a Game Show for $1k recently. This is my first Bally/Williams pin. I've got two issues I'm looking for help with. First and foremost is the kicker to feed the ball trough isn't working. When a balls is in the drain and sits on the switch, there's a clicking noise from the power supply and it looks like the fuse in F5 is probably bad. Could this be as simple as a dead fuse? Where's a good place to buy replacements?

Other issue is the New Car drop target is permanently in the down position. Any advice or links to good resources for troubleshooting that would be appreciated.

The game otherwise plays fine with the glass off as long as I can manually load a ball in the shooter lane. Someone has definitely done some work on this guy as it has an LED kit, rottendog display and flippers are great.

Thanks!

Anybody have a extra A-13301? Wire gate.
Thanks.

20221203_220707 (resized).jpg

Thanks for the support Jeff!

Having some audio issues. All music, sound effects and voices work… they’re just quiet, tinny and distant sounding. Visual inspection of the board a wires doesn’t show any immediate issues. Any suggestions of where to look next?

Quick update on this… issue is SOLVED. I replaced the transistor at Q29 and the logic chip at Q20 first since they were easy. Also replaced the outhole kicker coil with a brand new one just for good measure. Still no luck. All voltages seemed good. I resoldered all the points on that circuit just in case there was a cold joint somewhere. Ended up replacing the AC relay on the aux power board. Was running out of ideas and the last thing I had to replace was the TIP102 transistor at Q33 but I’d been avoiding it because it had burnt out at some point in the past and did some damage to there board. A prior owner had McGuyver’d that spot and installed some wire jumpers to bypass the traces at the burn. I replaced Q33 and touched up those jumpers which ultimately fixed the outhole kicker. Game plays great now… just need to figure out why the sound is quiet and tinny.

Anyone know what to do about insert decals that have worn away?

Gorgeous! Amazing!!

Aiiiiight, Im a member! Loved this game since I played it a 7-11, 1990ish.

Found this on my old imgur account:

EyQL3Ut (resized).jpeg

What do I win?

Anybody know the part # for the long skinny spring that actuates the gate on the plunge ramp. It goes down below the PF. When open you enter the "collect" area on the left side, then it kicks the ball back out into play. thanks

Can somebody do me a huge favor!!? Take out the sound overlay lamp board (small board in head between sound board and power supply board)and see if you have continuity between the + and - on the bridge. See blue circles in Pic. I have continuity which means basically my + power is just grounding out and I don't know why. Just installed a new bridge and all transistors and pre drivers spec good. Thanks for any help!

20230606_165804 (resized).jpg

Fixed...big capacitor was shorted

Can anybody please snap me a picture of their interconnect board, specifically the area of my picture, trying to make sure my resistor values are correct as they don't match the manual but this is a numbers matching original board to my game and doesn't look tampered with. Thanks

20230626_130119 (resized).jpg

Those resistor values look to be correct. The manual BOM on page 2-11 is completely incorrect. It's a copy/paste from Mousin' Around.

• 2009 = Mousin' Around00_d-12313-2009_mousin'_around.jpg
• 2003 = Game Show01_d-12313-2003_game_show.jpg

The solenoid table has the information that you need to do the verification.

02_game_show_solenoid_table.jpg

You don't need an image. You just need to read (and understand) the manual.

Yeah I figured manual was wrong...there's a lot of info that seems questionable in it to what I see on boards. I reviewed that solenoid table but maybe I'm not understanding it. The red square you made around the notes and said notes have no info on resistor values?

Different game but the principle is the same. The thread @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flashers-problem-bright-dimmer-and-very-dim has the information that you need to help decipher. Specifically post #12 in that thread. You infer the values from the information.

I like that you're reading the response and asking questions about it. That's good. A lot of times I post stuff like that and then there's crickets.

DA your the man and I really appreciate the response! What a great thread you linked and very informative. Found my R10 resistor to be bad earlier but this was still a great read. What I think was confusing me was how Sol. # 1-8 they give you the count and then in my instance Sol. 16 it says "4b." It just so happens to have 4 flashers in this circuit but I was not understanding what the B meant or how it corresponds to the count. Then realized Note 4b at the bottom of the Table talks about which relay board this circuit interacts with...A or B. I guess they just decided not to give the count on Sol. 16.

Thanks for the acknowledgement. I don't post this information (this thread or any other thread) for my benefit. I post it for everyone's benefit but often for the OP of an issue. Plenty of times the information is either ignored or there is no acknowledgement. I stop posting responses to people that exhibit that behavior because it's clear they are on this forum for their own benefit rather than giving back or paying it forward.

I think that the table has ambiguous information in it. The footnotes also have ambiguous information. In this table, the top says "d=Display Bd" but it should really read "b=Backbox". Sometimes it is "i=Insert". There's no uniformity or consistency which is not good. You take what information you can get.

1C-8C are consistent. Sol11=1p (1 in the playfield and therefore is 11 Ohm) and Sol16=4b (4 in the backbox and therefore is 3 Ohm). It's not "4b like the footnote". Sol16 is a flasher (resistive) not a solenoid (inductive relay). You can also confirm what's what by looking at the wiring of 2J11 and 2J12. This is why the image you (originally) posted has the correct values for these resistors.

Here's a question....are there other options for this resistor besides the wire wound cement style you can use? Link below are the only ones I have found for exact match. Just asking out of curiosity but also I'm going to be ordering other pin parts from the normal suppliers (PBR,Marco, PLife) and they don't seem to carry this 3 Ohm one. Marco had a 3 ohm 10W but no 5W

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yageo/SQP500JB-3R0/18642

These resistors can get warm / hot so they do dissipate a fair amount of heat. As long as the power rating meets the requirements, that's all that matters.

The component you linked to is 100% compatible. The exact value is not required. You can also use 2R7 or 3R3 which are standard E12 values. 3R0 is a standard E24 value. If you substitute a higher value (such as 4 Ohm) then the flashers will be less bright.

Coolio! Thanks again for the insight DA.