Atlantis
Bally, 1989Well kinda, I discovered in an ad here on Pinside
I'm a little disappointed however.
Disappointed that it won't need much work! 
Just wanted to start the thread with some humor, and share the first pic.
I've already scanned the cab and bb to recreate vinyl decals.
Now I'm gonna play it a little bit.
See y'all Monday with more.
After viewing the Silverball Mania in person, I'm excited to see this Bally Atlantis blossom under your care.
Marcus
Maybe a nice touch to add a Tech Chart in the cabinet.
Look in the Bally section or the Tech Chart section for the pdf file.
Might come in handy when trouble shooting the game.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
If you like my work, please send me a donation via PayPal.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Well kinda, I discovered in an ad here on Pinside
I'm a little disappointed however.
Disappointed that it won't need much work!
Just wanted to start the thread with some humor, and share the first pic.
I've already scanned the cab and bb to recreate vinyl decals.
Now I'm gonna play it a little bit.
See y'all Monday with more.
Can you see which version your game is?
In another posting someone asked for version differences.
Since we only have the V3 to go on it's hard to tell.
Peter
Quoted from Inkochnito:Can you see which version your game is?
Sure will, I will let you know.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I've already scanned the cab and bb to recreate vinyl decals.
I had the bb created at one time. Pm me if you’d like to see the art.
So while playing Atlantis last night I started to smell the distinct aroma of burning electronics.
I opened the back box and discovered Q62, Q61, Q50 were smoked.
Q49, was cracked open and Q48 and Q47 were in duress.
Today I was going to perform surgery on the board and discovered none of the grounding screws were installed. Only two screws were securing the board to the back box.
Game was playing fine up until the point of noticeable odor.
I then noticed when the game was in attract more some of the flasher bulbs were no longer flashing.
Could a poor ground have led to the failure of the SCR's above?
I've checked all the traces and they are still intact.
I'm trying to trace the logic diagrams to see if those scr's control the flasher but keep finding it a little challenging..
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I'm a little disappointed however.
Disappointed that it won't need much work!
Kidding, welcome to pinball.
I do not know for certain if all the failures would be caused by missing board screws. Sure could be though. I am here to tell you what I usually tell anybody esp new people to the hobby. Send your damaged boards in for repair. That damage is pretty bad. Not a good time to learn about home board repair.
First off, congrats on the game. A friend has one and I think it is pretty cool and fun to play.
For the SCR to burn like that makes me think there is likely a short somewhere. When a SCR fails short cathode to anode the bulb would just be locked on, not smoke the board. The manual should tell you where those two SCRs go to and then investigate there. Bally 6803 multiplexes the lamps, so each SCR could be controlling two different PF lamps. The flash lamps (i'd assume) are done by the bigger physically sized SCRs.
So far I've been able to trace the failed scr's to the their associated 4514, all seem to be common... what signal feeds those ic's that could have caused the failures?
I replaced 6 of them last night, testing this morning found several more I need to replace.
Hope to discover root cause soon.
All the resistors measure within tolerance.
I see on the board that U19 has been replaced in the past along with Q10, 17, 15 and Q39, but those appear to be for the solonoids. So back to the signal that feeds each 4514... grrrr
The left side of the 4514 in the drawing is going to be the encoded inputs. The PA and PB indicates 6821 PIA ports control that decoder. The CPU tests the PIA ports at boot up. If it flashes up all the way, I'd assume the PIA is good for now.
Those 2K resistors between the the 4514 and the lamp SCR hopefully protected the 4514. I have never seen a 4514 cause a burn out failure of the SCR like thats. I guess it could, but I'm thinking there is going to be short on the PF. Pinched wire?
Andrew, you bring up an interesting point, my LED does not flash at all!
I have a replacement I will drop in this evening, I assume it is bad as the game will boot and play...
I will check the pf for wire damage tonight.
Do you make a replacement board for this system should I want a clean one?
Quoted from Atari_Daze:So while playing Atlantis last night I started to smell the distinct aroma of burning electronics.
I opened the back box and discovered Q62, Q61, Q50 were smoked.
Q49, was cracked open and Q48 and Q47 were in duress.I'm trying to trace the logic diagrams to see if those scr's control the flasher but keep finding it a little challenging..
I've made things a little bit easyer for you....
Check here on the PinWiki.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Atlantis#Lamp_Chart
Click on SCR to sort decending.
The Tech Chart is in the Bally section on my website www.inkochnito.nl
Peter
Sooo, J11 has a short somewhere, all scr's associated with that plug have failed.
I've checked the header pins, everything there seems good, no short detected.
Gotta be "south" of the plug.
I shall check it after getting home from work.
Thanks for the link Peter, I had not gone there yet.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:So while playing Atlantis last night I started to smell the distinct aroma of burning electronics.
I opened the back box and discovered Q62, Q61, Q50 were smoked.
Q49, was cracked open and Q48 and Q47 were in duress.
Today I was going to perform surgery on the board and discovered none of the grounding screws were installed. Only two screws were securing the board to the back box.
Game was playing fine up until the point of noticeable odor.
I then noticed when the game was in attract more some of the flasher bulbs were no longer flashing.
Could a poor ground have led to the failure of the SCR's above?
I've checked all the traces and they are still intact.
I'm trying to trace the logic diagrams to see if those scr's control the flasher but keep finding it a little challenging..
With your white furry assistant reviewing the electronics schematics you should have this under control in no time.
Gord
Quoted from GRB1959:With your white furry assistant reviewing the electronics schematics you should have this under control in no time
Yea I had to come to work to be able to actually check the schematics without "help"!
Or could it be a bad U10 or U11 sending a bad signal to the 6821s
Guess I'll dig out the logic probe tonight after replacing the other failed SCR's and checking J11 for a short. I suppose I could re-pin this board while I'm troubleshooting...
I do like board work. 
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I'm a little disappointed however.
Disappointed that it won't need much work!
Looks like that problem is solved.
Replaced bad SCRs all is working. I think if there was a short it was prior to my ownership. I noticed there was some extra cabinet work to support the back box, looks like there was a structural failure in this games history. Looks like some cabinet work is in my future for this pin, the extent of which is to be determined. I got one side of the back box art work re-created. Overall I'm satisfied. Hopefully the ownership thread can help me with the color codes etc.
Here are a few images of the items from this post.
What does everyone do to replace these sorry ass light sockets that fall apart just from swapping out light bulbs?
Quoted from dasvis:Replace the socket with standard bayonet type
Thanks @dasvis, I'll be replacing ALL of them in this manner then! I have some left over from Silverball Mania and will buy a few more for this pin.
So here is the right side cab art, now to flip it around and make it for the left side. Again, still not sure about colors but since they are individual layers, easy to adjust.
Quoted from dasvis:Replace the socket with standard bayonet type... for # 44 bulbs
Agreed the bayonets are much better down the road. HATE those wedges....the tips of my fingers hurt just from thinking about it.
Acceptable! Its your pin- throw in some 120V incandescence if ya like 
Nice work getting the board turned around. Weird stuff but all’s well that ends well.
Atlantis is a fun and pretty game but the Jackpot carrying over from game to game forced me to sell. IIRC there was no adjustments for the jackpot feature.
Nice pickup! This is my one and only machine that I've picked up so far. Replacing the cabinet and back box art is something that I need to do since mine has quite a few places where the art is ripped or torn off completely. Any help that you could give in that regard would be awesome! Good luck!
Here are a couple of replacement instructions that another user had created for his machine. They are a bit busy but better than the plain white.
Quoted from Dagre:Any help that you could give in that regard would be awesome!
Yea it's gameplay is rather captivating to me.
As far as cab art, I'm painstakingly using photo shop and illustrator to clean up the scans for if you were to see the image above at 100%, it needs some help.
It's quite a lot of work but will hopefully be worth it in the end.
Slowly making some progress with Photoshop, retracing EVERY line before converting artwork to illustrator to refine further.
Can you tell which lines I've yet to touch up...
That's just ONE tiny section of the cab art work. I'm just too damn cheap to buy the existing decals, I had some very generous Pinsiders contact me with some, but depending on how much my local print shop wants, I might re-consider!
Quoted from Dagre:Nice pickup! This is my one and only machine that I've picked up so far. Replacing the cabinet and back box art is something that I need to do since mine has quite a few places where the art is ripped or torn off completely. Any help that you could give in that regard would be awesome! Good luck!
Here are a couple of replacement instructions that another user had created for his machine. They are a bit busy but better than the plain white.
needs a different type face and a white stroke around the yellow letters. I think that would help it be a lot easier to read.
Not much going on with Atlantis yet. I contacted a local print shop with art work for cab details and they wanted $1000 for a set of decals. Luckily a great pinsider had reached out and offered me a set he had purchased but didn't think he would use so I purchased those from him.
I'm just working on the insert artwork now so I can get to the point of necessity of finally taking the machine apart for work. I just keep playing it though.
I've placed a few small parts orders for some things while I try to finish solving the two lamp issues on SBM, I need to get it done and sold so my focus has been on it. It's gonna kill me!
I've got some pretty cool plans for Atlantis and brass plating rather than chrome. Should fit the theme better IMO.
So if you are playing the home game... so far parts are
Plastics
Brass spring
flipper rebuild kit
So for now that is it, keep checking back for more updates.
Well look what all arrived for Atlantis today:
-Cab decals
-Brass color T molding and brass acorn nuts (will compliment the brass work that Chris sc93cobra will eventually do)
-A new MPU should future buyer want it
-A few coils and misc parts (ramp supplies)
-And the NVRAM (by @barakandi) delivered to the house
Things are beginning to take shape!
Quoted from Skypilot:buy the metal ones that go under the legs.
These?
Great tip cosmokramer!
I've started disassembly finally. Was having too much fun playing this while parts started to show up. I'm thinking the shaft for the kick out mech is NOT supposed to be loose and leaning as seen in the image. The bottom (I failed to photograph) appears to have 4 dimples, I'm guessing from a punch to deform the flange for a "press fit"? The fix would simply be to redo the dimples?
Do not re-dimple.
Too much space because of the movement.
Just replace the bracket.
There are lots of 2nd hand brackets or use a new one.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5015-00
Quoted from Inkochnito:Do not re-dimple.
Well, guess I can pull this one out of the tumbler then!
Thanks Peter
No real update other than some metric documenting, I'm a numbers person...
211 images taken
1.15 hours today (3/7/2018)
1.75 hours total
Some sample images of various states of disassembly, how to stay organized using the plastic baggies from Digi-Key and pinball part suppliers and my "helper".
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Quoted from Captive_Ball:That's one mishmash set of LEDs that game has installed
Indeed! Fear not Jim, I shall get a much better balance of lighting once done.
More disassembly last night, got the Submarine ramp and all associated items with it removed.
I'm going to add the hours I spent re-creating the cabinet art even though I was lucky enough to get a set of decals, it is still time spent on this project. Further adding to todays numbers the hours spent creating water slide decals.
I ordered some of these caps to possibly hide the screws heads on plastics where acorn nuts obviously don't apply. The others to protect plastics from damage from screw heads. I will dye them to better blend with associated plastics... thoughts?
Might not get too much done this weekend, I'm making some plastics for a fellow Pinsider who needed some for a game he is working on, always willing to help!
324 images taken
12 hours (again, included back time from decal work)
13.75 hours total
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Houston, TX
Piershil
