Are u using acrylic solvent to bond the corners
Quoted from Miguel351:
Wait, are you doing the playfield in the transparent-opaque style like the sides, too? That's just too cool. What'd be REALLY slick is if you found a way to reproduce the playfield artwork as an image that you can set at like 50% or something so you could retain the colors, but keep them largely transparent.
Inquiring minds want to know.
The OP could do the PF in colored Acrylic... but not sure if they make it in 1/2" sizes he'd need.
I'm surprised he's doing the PF in Acrylic; but I await updates to be sure. Maybe he'd just doing the inserts?!
I've had some success with some plastic epoxy at the glue section at Lowes. It smells worse than regular epoxy; and seems to soften the surface of the plastic enough to bond the epoxy to it.
I used it to mount the Terran empire acrylic to the top of the pop bumper caps and it seems to be very solid.
WHOAH. Wait. Screen. No.
What would you do if I offered to laser cut a grill for you at Techshop out of clear acrylic?!
Ok. Not that it isn't beautiful work... but I gotta ask.
Why even do the lite blockers in clear acrylic. Isn't the point to block lite leakage from around the backglass features?
Wouldn't it have been better do this in smoke transparent... or maybe even black opaque?
Pretty sure these are the old style, not the ones with nuts and springs.
Clear exists for "modern" flipper buttons; but not the old style.
I'd think you'd want 500-800 grit surface for the clear to adhere to.
Not an expert tho.
no experience with Max 2k.
On my Auto Clear (chromacoat or something from dupont) the key is to make sure that each coat "flashes" per the recommended time on the label. IIRC; mine was something like 7-8mins... I usually waited 20. Also; UV helps cure my clearcoat; so I let mine flash in the sun.
Given this is a clear on top of clear lexan; I'd proably use a real paint booth to prevent dust/bugs from adding to the awesomeness of this mod.
voicing opinions is probably ok... but remember; this is HIS machine. His choice how he wants the PF to look.
yeah - decals really have no "glue" holding them to the surface of the lexan.
Not sure even a auto-guy is going to be able to prevent that. humm
Hey - If you decide you want to do the buttons in clear or frosted... waltz on over to:
I created CAD models of this era's Button and housing and you can order it off shapeways.
I kinda think the clear frosted might look ok.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:
Personally, I think the polished silver would look better, but juuuuuuuuuust a touch over my budget. I agree, the frosted would be awesome lit up. Right now that kind of stuff is on the "details" list for when I get to the end. Thanks for opening my eyes to Shapeways. I knew these places existed having read about them in PM and such, but never saw a personal need until now. (When I get to my EBD I may need to get some of those Bally light shrouds.) It's great that guys like you are doing the work like this so the rest of us can reap the benefits!
Well; watch the mirror universe thread sometime next week... I got frosted detail on the way along with polished metallic housings. Shapeways should ship tomorrow. Wasn't cheap; but necessary when they go with the Nacelle Flipper button mods I have built.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:
I'll transfer that to the acrylic and then cut it with a scroll saw and sand it smooth. Really need to move to Austin so I can utilize TechShop. Laser cutters, etc.
Write when you get work.
I don't think you could cut this with the Laser cutter. Too big. Limited by 28.7" x 17".
You'd probably want to cnc it... or maybe water jet it.
Have you told the wife your moving yet?
GOOD luck mr last minute.
I can say this... because I know exactly what he's been up against.
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