Austin, TX
Are u using acrylic solvent to bond the corners
(Topic ID: 67163)
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2 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from Miguel351:Wait, are you doing the playfield in the transparent-opaque style like the sides, too? That's just too cool. What'd be REALLY slick is if you found a way to reproduce the playfield artwork as an image that you can set at like 50% or something so you could retain the colors, but keep them largely transparent.
Inquiring minds want to know.
The OP could do the PF in colored Acrylic... but not sure if they make it in 1/2" sizes he'd need.
I'm surprised he's doing the PF in Acrylic; but I await updates to be sure. Maybe he'd just doing the inserts?!
1 week later
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Just joshing with ya, dude. I was actually listening to ABBA, Cher and Amy Grant.
Must be the Corpus sun bakin' your brain cells.
Looking good tho. Looks like I'm gonna have some competition at TPF.
3 weeks later
Mk1Mod0,
I've had some success with some plastic epoxy at the glue section at Lowes. It smells worse than regular epoxy; and seems to soften the surface of the plastic enough to bond the epoxy to it.
I used it to mount the Terran empire acrylic to the top of the pop bumper caps and it seems to be very solid.
Sorry it won't make it. I was thinking that things were not close enough last night ... but figured you had some plan other than working your ash off.
Star Trek: Mirror Universe will as I just got the Nixie displays working 100% thanks to Oliver in Sweden.
3 weeks later
1 week later
WHOAH. Wait. Screen. No.
What would you do if I offered to laser cut a grill for you at Techshop out of clear acrylic?!
2 weeks later
Ok. Not that it isn't beautiful work... but I gotta ask.
Why even do the lite blockers in clear acrylic. Isn't the point to block lite leakage from around the backglass features?
Wouldn't it have been better do this in smoke transparent... or maybe even black opaque?
Quoted from chadderack:Looks fantastic!
Looking forward to a short video of the game being played, with the associated sounds and visuals
Don't see a PF installed in that cabinet. so.... he's still working on it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from CaptainNeo:not going with the clear flipper buttons? Figured that would be a gimme.
They don't exist
Red or green transparent are his only options
Pretty sure these are the old style, not the ones with nuts and springs.
Clear exists for "modern" flipper buttons; but not the old style.
1 month later
Quoted from thedefog:That really is a bummer. At least it all peeled right off, right?
IDK... looking at the picture; I see delamination of the clear vs the plastic in the center of the PF.
It might be very challenging to get the clear off of the plastic now.
no experience with Max 2k.
On my Auto Clear (chromacoat or something from dupont) the key is to make sure that each coat "flashes" per the recommended time on the label. IIRC; mine was something like 7-8mins... I usually waited 20. Also; UV helps cure my clearcoat; so I let mine flash in the sun.
Given this is a clear on top of clear lexan; I'd proably use a real paint booth to prevent dust/bugs from adding to the awesomeness of this mod.
voicing opinions is probably ok... but remember; this is HIS machine. His choice how he wants the PF to look.
1 week later
yeah - decals really have no "glue" holding them to the surface of the lexan.
Not sure even a auto-guy is going to be able to prevent that. humm
Hey - If you decide you want to do the buttons in clear or frosted... waltz on over to:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/button-patentcopyright-owner#post-1840611
I created CAD models of this era's Button and housing and you can order it off shapeways.
I kinda think the clear frosted might look ok.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Personally, I think the polished silver would look better, but juuuuuuuuuust a touch over my budget. I agree, the frosted would be awesome lit up. Right now that kind of stuff is on the "details" list for when I get to the end. Thanks for opening my eyes to Shapeways. I knew these places existed having read about them in PM and such, but never saw a personal need until now. (When I get to my EBD I may need to get some of those Bally light shrouds.) It's great that guys like you are doing the work like this so the rest of us can reap the benefits!
Well; watch the mirror universe thread sometime next week... I got frosted detail on the way along with polished metallic housings. Shapeways should ship tomorrow. Wasn't cheap; but necessary when they go with the Nacelle Flipper button mods I have built.
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:I'll transfer that to the acrylic and then cut it with a scroll saw and sand it smooth. Really need to move to Austin so I can utilize TechShop. Laser cutters, etc.
Write when you get work. 
I don't think you could cut this with the Laser cutter. Too big. Limited by 28.7" x 17".
You'd probably want to cnc it... or maybe water jet it.
Have you told the wife your moving yet?
3 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from Toads:I always get excited when I see rubbers going on
... that's what She said?!
2 months later
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Working on the chime unit now and I think I found the problem. (Besides me!) It turns out it is a bad idea to hook up a set of chimes with DC coils(with diodes attached) to an AC circuit! Video to be posted tonight.
DOH! yeah... that's bad on fuses and diodes.
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