Super Straight
Segasa-Sonic, 1977You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider winteriscoming.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Is there any room for using white nylon hardware in this project, maybe to secure lamps and such? You may have to thread the hole, but might look good in the clear. Of course they probably wouldn't be good in place of any structural screws/bolts.
Looking good. Best of luck in the project!
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Trying to use as much original hardware as possible, but still wrestling with what to use where the GI lights were stapled to the back of the score mount and the underside of the playfield. Not sure exactly what you are refering to but I take all suggestions! Pictures are good too. I like pictures.
I guess there are clear ones, too!
http://www.robotshop.com/en/m3x6mm-clear-nylon-screws-nuts-10.html
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Looking into it... I'd rather not mylar it, myself, but am getting short on time. Originally, I was going to spot blast the areas where words go and then paint them in and clear coat. Found making stencils for words that small while not impossible, would be difficult at best. My best option at this point is to do the words on white background decal paper. I believe it will give me the look I want, but I have to protect it. Will have to do some quick experimenting to see if that can be waxed without destroying it. Either that or I go with no verbiage on the play field. Not a desirable option either.
You already invested a lot into this, so maybe this suggestion won't be too expensive for you. You can get a cheap plotter/die cutter and cut the stencils out of vinyl or whatever with your computer and get very fine detail pretty quickly.
I own this one and like it a lot: http://www.amazon.com/Silhouette-SILHOUETTE-PORTRAIT-Portrait/dp/B009GZUPFA/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1
There's a wider one for more: http://www.amazon.com/Silhouette-Electronic-Cutting-Designer-Software/dp/B007XWY5VI/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_16
The software is pretty easy to use.
Edit: Even if you go the printed decals route, this can cut them out for your perfectly. You're able to print an image and then specify how it should be cut relative to some registration marks.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Waaaaay back on page three you can see the work I did making stencils with my Cameo. My point is that the playfield letters are 1/4" and 1/8". It will cut them, but the weeding and usage would probably be more frustration than fruitful.
Well, y'all screamed loudly and I heard ya. The mylar is out and the wax is in. The results of my unscientific experiment are quite clear. I am also going with the white backed decals. It is really close to the look I was going for anyways.IMG_6728.JPG 147 KB
Ah, so you've already got one. You don't think having it cut out the words on adhesive vinyl would work for a sandblasting stencil? Whenever I cut out letters I also cut a rectangle around the entire word. Most of the time I can pull the entire rectangle out and adhere everything and then remove what I need to. That helps with the isolated bits like the center of an "O" or whatever. I would think the sandblasting would be the way to go based on what you've done with it already. Would the letters and such even need to be black? Could the PF be edge-lit?
At the end of the day, it will be awesome no matter how you do it. I'm just a spectator and ultimately my opinion means nothing.
I thought you said you had a Silhouette cutter, so why manually cut out anything? In mine, if I arrange the printing so that it has registration marks and lay it all out in the program, I can get the Sillouette to cut perfectly.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:True enough. So far I have not been able to accomplish this. Always seems to be just so slightly misaligned.
There are adjustments you can set to get it perfect. It's been a while, but I recall there being something where you print out a page with a few crosses and it cuts on one of the crosses, and you measure how far off center it is and input that into the software and try again.
I like the idea of a kind of overlay protector on top of etching, but I wonder about another potential solution along these lines. You've got an overall thickness to the playfield that you're aiming for. Would it be possible to sandwich two thinner pieces together to equal the desired total thickness? Maybe the top layer is thinner than the bottom layer. Then you can etch the underside of top layer so that the etching appears close to the top, but ultimately the top side is smooth.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:That's the cutter. Hours and hours of cleaning up the scans, converting them to line drawings, cutting and weeding the masking material and finally using transfer tape to get it (hopefully) in the right place on the new field. Now comes the fun part. (Blasting) Then comes the real bitch. Removing the masking without scratching the field to death.
Whats the type of masking material you're feeding through the cutter? Would it be sufficient for airbrushing as well? I'm just curious since I have a Sillouette cutter, too and am interested in using it for making stencils for PF touchups.
Would you be willing to share the info on the material and the blade setting for the cutter?
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider winteriscoming.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-acrylic-pinball-project-i-am-clearly-insane?tu=winteriscoming and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
