I love Vid- Facts to the rescue once again.

But I vote final weight including the tilt and play balls- with the manual in the cabinet

@459.8.3 lb

We need a survey!

I kinda think that over time with the play field art being wrong (scoring) and the score sheets being wrong and everyting else being so perfect and "clear" that you might want to think about adding those false zeros back- just an unasked for opinion worth exactly zero- But in the end- this would bother me... maybe not right away but after a while I think I would increasingly notice the absence.

Its an amazing project, and an amazing bit of skill you have picked up- congrats- either way you go no one is going to care- its your baby and its beautiful.

Idea above--- or you could even make them and sand blast them into acrylic and side light it with a nice LED so the zeros GLOW!

But yeah on further consideration- exposing the scam of the dummy zero is kinda bad but I think you need the zeros-

I could not help myself cause this is such a great project.

Adhesion of modern clear coats to plastics is not a given- even with sanding. Unsure of the components in your clear mix... but if your going to use a dupont based clear... here is what dupont says to do. I would get this product and test it with your clear....

Make It Stick
***_name redacted_ cause I don't want to get into trouble***
National Training Manager
DuPont

The other day, a customer called to say that the paint and clearcoat had come right off the surface of a raw plastic polyolefin part after he accidentally flexed it as he was carrying it to the car for installation. As usual, it was the last piece he was putting on the car and the car had to go out later that day.

Our tech called him and asked what steps he took to prepare the part for paint. He said he first cleaned it off with soap and water. Good. He followed it up with 222S adhesion promoter, and as soon as he said that, the tech knew that was the first problem. He then tacked it off, put his basecoat and clearcoat down with a 10-minute flash time in between, and then baked it.

The 222S adhesion promoter is not made for plastics. He should have used Plas-Stick 2320S. The directions are to saturate a cloth with it and clean the plastic thoroughly until all the gloss is removed and it doesn’t feel slick. After applying the Plas-Stick, you either hand sand the plastic with 800 grit or DA it with 500. Then you clean it again with Plas-Stick to not only take the sanding dust off but minimize static build-up. Once you reclean, you apply one more medium coat of Plas-Stick and allow it to dry. If you’re going to prime it, you would put Plas-Stick in the primer to flex it and put it in the sealer if you’re going to seal it. Then you would apply your basecoat and clearcoat. If you do that, there won’t be any issues.

Sorry- didn't pursue far enough to read that its not going to work on ABS or Lexan... this may indeed be as simple as sanding... maybe not. Plastics are or at least can be a problem in terms of getting stuff to stick. I am certain you will figure this out. Its hardly the first road block you have overcome. Keep at it-

I use my Cameo with a Gerber Mask material for air brush and PinBall restoration. Amazing how quickly you can use this tool to fix stuff that would be a PITA by hand.

Just be sure you get the right transfer tape (I recommend a paper based tape or medium bond) then hammer it down good and tight- spray with a release agent (or water) to help release the stencil from the transfer tape and away you go-

Now thats progress-

Looking great- I cannot wait to see this lit up! So good on so many levels-

I was going to take a look at the schematic to try to help here... but the posted scan is now so small I cannot use it for anything, can't read any text etc even with magnification.... maybe we can go for something about 4x larger in file size than offered-

Obviously, you need to be able to zoom in to a level that allows reading of all the print and with enough detail to make out symbols on the schematic too (like switch positions etc).

Maybe I am missing something here.... but I click to download and digitally zoom and I don't see resolution required to read this... if its just me then I will figure it out.

Most excellent... You should be able to find another base plate without the wear... when you feel up to replacing it-

Awesome.