(Topic ID: 67163)

*FINISHED* The Acrylic Pinball Project - I am "clearly" insane


By Mk1Mod0

6 years ago



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  • 1,333 posts
  • 259 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Mk1Mod0
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There are 1333 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 27.
#201 6 years ago
Quoted from lowepg:

Next, please do a Fish Tales and turn the cabinet into an aquarium

Eh, it's been done. LOL

tanked.jpg
#202 6 years ago

I enjoy the show when I catch it but that is not only one of the worst things done to a pin but isn't great for the fish either. Also, I think it just looks like crap.

#203 6 years ago

What show is that on ?

#204 6 years ago

"Tanked." I like the show too but this was a horrific idea. Ugly don't begin to describe IMHO.

#205 6 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

"Tanked." I like the show too but this was a horrific idea. Ugly don't begin to describe IMHO.

Gotcha, i think i was 12min's of it once... then click, back to Law and Order..

#206 6 years ago

I greatly respect that you have the desire to build this and aren't taking the easy path because building it is part of the fun. I have to say that reading earlier in the thread where it was compared to building an aquarium made me laugh a little. I understand the concept but I don't think that was a very good comparison. You are doing a very cool thing and I am happy to be reading about and following your work. Thank you!

#207 6 years ago

So freakin' cool. Subscribed.

#208 6 years ago

Finally, a good productive day. The spousal unit is down hard w/ H1N1 so I was free to work uninterrupted while she slept off last nights puke fest. Thanks, whoever invented Tamiflu. Today was my second dryfit test with the machinery supports and coinbox back stop added in. I also threw in all the angle braces and machinery platform for fit, trim and drilling. Everything looks excellent. A little more dressing on the corners and we will assemble the lower cab.

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#209 6 years ago

The next trick was to figure out how to duplicate the spiked T-nut / bolt system that secures the machinery platform to the supports. Thanks to the helpful folks at Ace, I got that covered.

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#210 6 years ago

Outstanding Dude
I have this game to be restored, cabinet is totally fxxked, maybe I could do what you are doing and use acrylic?
Nah I am not that crazy.
Great stuff and I really enjoy this thread.

#211 6 years ago

That same trick should work for the head bolts, just a little bigger version. I'm finding that for every accounted hour on this project there seems to be two hours of unaccounted time for stuff I am not anticipating. The lower casing has been the beast I assumed it would be and then some. I sincerely hope that once it is assembled, the rest will flow a lot easier. It will become more about taking stuff from the old and putting it in the new. Once I get the case filled in and the machinery transferred to its new home, I'll be duplicating the score board while building up the back box. After that, just the play field! Easy, right?

Last item today was to affix the playfield supports to the case sides. So far, so good.

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#212 6 years ago

Wow, just, wow. Looking amazing so far.

#213 6 years ago

wicked ! .........and i'm tuned in

#214 6 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

"HEPing," huh? Had to look that one up! No, staying classic with a few updates. Color LEDs lighting the side artwork and soft white LEDs in the backbox so as not to blind the players. Probably some thing in the case to light up the machinery and such. I considered clear flipper bats and clear posts, but concluded that I had to have some contrast. Then I saw these - ebay.com link
Sold. Still considering options for the flippers. Other than that it will be all original. The idea for me was that anything wood would be turned to clear plexi. Casing, back box, playfield, etc. Also doing the backglass, transition and guides. It's all starting to shape up now, but March is coming fast and I've got 4 other machines to prep for TPF. Wish me luck!

I've bought posts from them before, good deal. How about the purple with the leds you put under the star posts to light them up, I have a couple on a game and it looks great. They are the ones that fit completly inside the post, not he ones where the posts sit on top of the led board. But I wonder how that light up effect would look when the posts are on a clear pf. Might be interesting to see how they look.

#215 6 years ago

Beautiful work.

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#217 6 years ago

I'm really enjoying your posts on this. Thanks for sharing the project with us!

#218 6 years ago

I like to hedge my bets, so I went ahead and added screws to the playfield supports. It's pretty heavy, with a large rack of relays and the bonus score motor.

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#219 6 years ago

First, of course, I did a dozen or so tests to find the maximum drill bit width allowable while maintaining grip of the screw and structural integrity of the part. Any good fabricator knows you always test it first. You'll know the hole is too small when...

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#220 6 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

First, of course, I did a dozen or so tests to find the maximum drill bit width allowable while maintaining grip of the screw and structural integrity of the part. Any good fabricator knows you always test it first. You'll know the hole is too small when...

If I had done something like that on a final piece, I would have cried.

I built a Crokinole board out of acrylic for a friend and was paranoid something horrible would happen.

#221 6 years ago

I'm hoping you'll share screw and bit sizes to assist those of us crazy enough to consider following your lead.

#222 6 years ago

I am taking copious amounts of notes for my own future reference... I am also categorizing as such because the difference in size and material. (Acrylic vs polycarbonate, extruded vs cast, etc., etc., etc....) I can be a li'l A/R, but it makes me a consistent ass instead of an unpredictable one!

#223 6 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

If I had done something like that on a final piece, I would have cried.

You would have heard me scream.

#224 6 years ago

Amazing work. So interesting to see this coming together - THANKS for posting it!!

30
#225 6 years ago

Done. Glued up. No looking back now. Whew! Guess I'd better get started shining up the legs...

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#227 6 years ago

Wow, that looks great in the light.

#228 6 years ago

Looks awesome. Can't wait to see videos of this pin running.

#229 6 years ago

looks great

#230 6 years ago

This is truly destined to be a museum piece, fantastic attention to detail. I, like everyone else, have this thread firmly in the favourites pocket.

Respect!

#231 6 years ago

$100k by Christmas? lol

no really, can one even put a price on the final product?

#232 6 years ago
Quoted from castlesteve:

$100k by Christmas? lol
no really, can one even put a price on the final product?

Everthing has a price...right?

#233 6 years ago

The word awesome is overused but in this case AWESOME, truly AWESOME. Cant wait to see how is all turns out.

#234 6 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

First, of course, I did a dozen or so tests to find the maximum drill bit width allowable while maintaining grip of the screw and structural integrity of the part. Any good fabricator knows you always test it first. You'll know the hole is too small when...

Excellent work.

But for future reference, there is a drill size chart for screws sizes available - although not sure how well this translates for use in plastic: http://www.wlfuller.com/html/wood_screw_chart.html

Or this one if using machine screws: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/us-tap-drill-size.aspx

#235 6 years ago
Quoted from CharlestonSCPins:

The word awesome is overused but in this case AWESOME, truly AWESOME. Cant wait to see how is all turns out.

Yes yes yes

#236 6 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

Excellent work.
But for future reference, there is a drill size chart for screws sizes available - although not sure how well this translates for use in plastic: http://www.wlfuller.com/html/wood_screw_chart.html
Or this one if using machine screws: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/us-tap-drill-size.aspx

Thanks! Nice references. The second one works great but the first just gives a good starting point. Most wood (even "hard" woods) will compress, to a point. The plexi, especially the cast kind does not. If the hole is too small, either it cracks, or if polycarbonate (like Lexan) the friction will heat it until the screw is stuck and you snap the head off. Not wanting any of that in my project, I start big and work my way down. (Wastes less screws that way.) It seems to be a fine line between too big to give grip and too small to work. My bit set breaks down to 64ths and I'm getting better at making educated guesses. But testing never hurts.

#237 6 years ago

I've been following this thread for some time and I'm simultaneously impressed and depressed. The work, and the dedication to it, is inspiring. Then I think about the fact that I would never be able to do something like this and I feely wholy inadequate...

Thankfully, we all have different skills and for the skills I don't have, I can appreciate them from afar.

Dave

#238 6 years ago

I can't really tell from the pics, sorry if I missed something, but are you tapping threads into the acrylic? Or just running a wood screw into a big enough hole to get grip but not blow out the acrylic? Have you tried self-tappers?

#239 6 years ago

looks amazing so far.
this is much better than the one that was done a few years ago.
with the leds and the artwork, this is definitely a museum piece!

#240 6 years ago
Quoted from browne92:

I can't really tell from the pics, sorry if I missed something, but are you tapping threads into the acrylic? Or just running a wood screw into a big enough hole to get grip but not blow out the acrylic? Have you tried self-tappers?

Option two. You can tap the acrylic but one over tightening and you're done. (Drill bigger, thread again, etc.) As for self-tappers, I believe they would work, but length is key here. The drilling tip would end up emerging from the other side of the plastic. Also, trying to remain as original as is reasonable, fasteners included. Thanks for the suggestions!

#241 6 years ago

When I said 'self tappers', I wasn't thinking of the drill tip kind, more like this:

Self-tapping-Screw.jpg

You still have to drill a hole for them, but they cut their own threads. Might hold better than wood screws.

#242 5 years ago
Quoted from browne92:

When I said 'self tappers', I wasn't thinking of the drill tip kind, more like this:

Interesting. No idea how those would work.

#243 5 years ago

And then there's this. "One of these things is NOT like the others..." Never really paid much attention to the legs. I had four, they were the same length and all were covered in crappy rattle can silver. (Applied while attached, of course.) So now that the time has come, I find one is chrome and the other three are burnished. And one of the levelers is NOT coming out. Yes I know how, I do it at work all the time. Cut, drill, tap.... Sometimes you just gotta say, fuckit. New legs on the way. Done and done.

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#244 5 years ago

Meanwhile...

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#245 5 years ago

That is just too freaking cool.

#246 5 years ago

Way cool project.

I'm still trying to work up the nerve to get an EM. I took radio and TV repair in high school. There were still tube set out there to repair, but everything new was solid state.

I'd like to kill two birds with one stone and get an EM shuffle bowler. Haven't had any luck finding one anywhere close.

#247 5 years ago
Quoted from MadPole:

I'd like to kill two birds with one stone and get an EM shuffle bowler. Haven't had any luck finding one anywhere close.

If I had the room... EMs are easy, dude. Just throw in a little mechanical action where the transistors and ICs usually sit and you got it!

#248 5 years ago

This clearly looks great

#249 5 years ago

Where is a good place to get this kind of acrylic?

#250 5 years ago
Quoted from Turboderf:

This clearly looks great

Arrrrrrg!

Quoted from Lonzo:

Where is a good place to get this kind of acrylic?

I sourced mine locally by searching plastics in the local yellow pages. There are lots of places online, but the shipping will kill you. (This crap's heavy! I will own the world's heaviest machine when this is done...) I bought mine at a local plastic fabrication shop that also sells raw materials and supplies. They are a good bunch and offered some excellent advice on techniques. Naturally I payed a little more per square foot than I can find online, but there's no shipping and I get to inspect the pieces before I buy them. I would hate to buy a $600 piece of acrylic or lexan only to have it show up cracked.

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There are 1333 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 27.

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