OK so I'm jumping in the pool late.
What is the current issue we are trying to solve?
Symptoms?
--Jeff
OK so I'm jumping in the pool late.
What is the current issue we are trying to solve?
Symptoms?
--Jeff
It will only play a four player game. When I initiate a single game, all steppers reset as they should. I play ball one and it goes to player two. Then three. Then four. Then ball two, player one. Etc. It always plays a four player game. #-ball or 5-ball game the result is the same. If the coin unit is at one player only, how can it do this? Something is telling the player unit to pulse every time the ball drains..
No offense taken, meSz. Just getting frustrated here. It's been a long couple of years and I am soooo close I can taste it. Still a few things to work out, but we're almost there. This thing is awesome and I can't wait to show it off.
Oh yes I remember going over that in Houston with you. I will look at the schematic tomorrow and offer some suggestions
-Jeff
As previously mentioned, I have new projects underway in the shop while the APP is still being cared fro in the den. Enjoy my other train wrecks.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cowboys-vs-aliens-a-side-by-side-rehab-project#post-2153255
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:As previously mentioned, I have new projects underway in the shop while the APP is still being cared fro in the den. Enjoy my other train wrecks.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cowboys-vs-aliens-a-side-by-side-rehab-project#post-2153255
for a minute...
i thought you were going to merge the 2 diff pins to create a new custom game
I have an old Gottleib 4 player EM. It steps through all 4 players, no matter how many are in the game. When a one player game is played and the ball drains, it steps through the other 3 players back to player 1. So maybe jumping to player 2 is not your problem, but failing to jump through 3 and 4 is?
HTH's.
Interesting. Any Sonic owners want to chip in with opinions? I have no idea if it should work that way or not.
I was going to take a look at the schematic to try to help here... but the posted scan is now so small I cannot use it for anything, can't read any text etc even with magnification.... maybe we can go for something about 4x larger in file size than offered-
Obviously, you need to be able to zoom in to a level that allows reading of all the print and with enough detail to make out symbols on the schematic too (like switch positions etc).
Maybe I am missing something here.... but I click to download and digitally zoom and I don't see resolution required to read this... if its just me then I will figure it out.
Ugh! You're right. Just tried it myself and you are correct sir. I had to dumb it down a ton to get it under 5Mb and that killed it. Let me try another route.
ok so here are the large schematic files hosted for those that want them im no good at stitching so ill let someone with better skills play that game like labnip
http://www.jealousofjeff.com/pinball/schem1.jpg
http://www.jealousofjeff.com/pinball/schem2.jpg
http://www.jealousofjeff.com/pinball/schem3.jpg
http://www.jealousofjeff.com/pinball/schem4.jpg
http://www.jealousofjeff.com/pinball/schem5.jpg
http://www.jealousofjeff.com/pinball/schem6.jpg
--Jeff
So it looks like when the ball drains, the signal goes to the ball count s.u. via coin and player unit? And you suspect that the coin unit is not being read correctly? I will look more into it.
Been over, under and through the coin unit and no fix in sight. My next move is to follow the wires that actuate the ball count/ player unit to terminus and see if there is a short somewhere.
Resolved. Finally. Thought this crap would break me.
In the end, it was just the stupid coin stepper, as it should have been and most of us thought it was. The problem was sporadic, though, and it took was I believe to be an inordinate amount of time to find it. Whenever a game is initiated, the coin unit resets to one player from wherever it was in the previous game. A hundred times outside of the game on the bench I tested (and confirmed) the continuity of this with my meter. It always tested good, and when in the game it looked good.
IMG_2811.JPG
What I have come to discover is that for some reason, when in the game, the wiper arm travels just a little further than when it is not. This is why. Wear and tear on the stepper unit allows too much travel on return.
IMG_2808.JPG
The knob on the stepper cog is halted by the indent but the indent is too worn so I wrapped this sucker with some of that handy self-sticking copper foil I have laying around until it stopped in the right place.
IMG_2810.JPG
Now the SOB plays like it should. 1,2,3,or 4 player games as you choose. I guess if the coin unit isn't saying anything the game reverts to four player? Weird. Don't care. Problem over. On to fuse blowing chime units, weak pop bumpers, mis-wired GI and switches that don't register! (Not to mention a playfield protector.)Thanks again for all the helpful advice. The story continues...
Most excellent... You should be able to find another base plate without the wear... when you feel up to replacing it-
Awesome.
Congrats, that's one hell of a problem to debug. At least with all of your effort it didn't turn out to be anything simple.
I'm SO glad you finally got that resolved! I was feeling your frustration. A magnificent job you are doing! Plus, I notice you did real well in your grammar classes when you were young. You correctly place commas where they go!
Mike in Kentucky
Quoted from rufessor:Most excellent... You should be able to find another base plate without the wear... when you feel up to replacing it-
Awesome.
If not, bore it oversized and press in a brass bushing.
Quoted from Pintucky:Plus, I notice you did real well in your grammar classes when you were young.
Yeah but adding words where they don't belong... that's just... real smart!
Great day so far. Game plays correctly and all relays activate as they should for all features. After going over the schematics and the playfield a couple hundred times I found the reason the 100pt coil was staying locked in. Probably looked at this several times without noticing.
Next on the list was to make a stiff wire connector between the lower gate and its activating coil.
Working on the chime unit now and I think I found the problem. (Besides me!) It turns out it is a bad idea to hook up a set of chimes with DC coils(with diodes attached) to an AC circuit! Video to be posted tonight.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Working on the chime unit now and I think I found the problem. (Besides me!) It turns out it is a bad idea to hook up a set of chimes with DC coils(with diodes attached) to an AC circuit! Video to be posted tonight.
DOH! yeah... that's bad on fuses and diodes.
Quoted from Zitt:DOH! yeah... that's bad on fuses and diodes.
Oh yeah. One of the diodes smoked in a spectacular fashion. Fortunately I am still in "test mode" and have my resettable fuses in place.
Finally got around to test cutting on the .01 acrylic pieces today. I think this stuff is gonna work out just great.
Slot cuts by biscuit joiner -
IMG_2826.JPG
Did this with a spade bit backed by a piece of junk wood.
IMG_2828.JPG
So now I will use some construction paper to get the basic layout of the play field to transfer to the acrylic piece. After marking and cutting out the cutouts so it will lay on the field, I can mark precise locations for the switch slots and rollover buttons. Once that test fits OK, I can sandblast the graphics in reverse on the bottom side of the thin sheet and that should look freaking spectacular.
OK guys. Next of the never ending problems. Fortunately, this one applies to all games so hopefully someone can help me out here. As you can see in the video, as soon as the hundred or thousand point relays are activated, they stay activated. Whether by hand or by a switch in the game the result is the same. What is supposed to release the coil? Is it one of the switches actually on the coil or is it a switch activated by the scoring mech? This is pretty much the last big problem I am having. It wasn't this way to start so I am thinking it is a dirty switch somewhere. I have cleaned the contacts at the point coils several times and it does not seem to help. Help?
so either there is a switch stuck on the playfield or the end of stoke switch on the reel isnt making.
I dont know those reels but if its like a williams when the reel pulls in the actuator bar will hit the EOS switch
--Jeff
It's a Sonic, so everything is Williams-like. I have seen that on the score reels. So that is what will stop the relay from pulling in?
Definately, Try activating the score reel manually.
Its the switch by the coil
it should open when the actuator pulls in
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/f/ff/WMS_4_in_reel.JPG
--Jeff
score RELAYS are held in by the motor board ( latched ) and released at the end of its cycle.
Sounds like the hold switch is short.The reason it doesn't happen on the ten is maybe because there is no 50 points on the board where as there is a 500 , 5000 points.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:All problems resolved. Ready for TPF.
Clearly an amazing and beautiful project. Thanks for sharing!
Wow, what a beautiful showcase of craftsmanship.
You knocked it out of the park. I hope to get to see this up close some day.
If this is coming to TPF maybe I will keep Crescendo home this year... it will be too embarrassing to look at this and not have a refinished cabinet...lol..
Sick!
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