Corpus Christi, TX
Quoted from thedefog:Have you considered applying decals to the underside and foregoing clearing it all together?
(Topic ID: 67163)
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Quoted from raddroxx:I thought the same thing since you'll be able to see through it.
It would have the added benefit of being easy to buff out scratches later too. Shit, you could probably just spot flame polish it.
Quoted from thedefog:It would have the added benefit of being easy to buff out scratches later too. Shit, you could probably just spot flame polish it.
Think it would be covered in scratches all the time though.. minor things you can't see on a normal play field might be highly visible, and acrylic is pretty easily scratched? Wax may do a pretty good job though of filling in fine cracks in this context..
either way, he's in uncharted territory.. sounds like time to work on some sample pieces before heading back to full playfield trial/error ?
Thorold, ON
Quoted from sd_tom:Think it would be covered in scratches all the time though.. minor things you can't see on a normal play field might be highly visible, and acrylic is pretty easily scratched? Wax may do a pretty good job though of filling in fine cracks in this context..
either way, he's in uncharted territory.. sounds like time to work on some sample pieces before heading back to full playfield trial/error ?
Future floor wax (or whatever it's called these days). Used to use it to make model airplane canopies shine, since it would fill in the scratches.
Just kidding though. I have no idea if this is feasible.
Quoted from sd_tom:Think it would be covered in scratches all the time though.. minor things you can't see on a normal play field might be highly visible, and acrylic is pretty easily scratched? Wax may do a pretty good job though of filling in fine cracks in this context..
either way, he's in uncharted territory.. sounds like time to work on some sample pieces before heading back to full playfield trial/error ?
Mylar perhaps? Put down mylar and pull it off when it starts looking crappy? I think anything is going to get scratched up and show since it is transparent, even clear coat.
Quoted from thedefog:Mylar perhaps? Put down mylar and pull it off when it starts looking crappy?
Think its a decent fallback if mk1mod0 runs short of ideas.
Definitely looking forward to seeing this completed, incredible project!
yeah - decals really have no "glue" holding them to the surface of the lexan.
Not sure even a auto-guy is going to be able to prevent that. humm
How about a whole overlay of that thin Makrolon stuff they use to make these?
This stuff looks pretty amazing when it's installed. Shiny like glass.
You can buy sheets of it, someone mentioned the price of it the other day, it was pretty cheap.
rd.
Sana'a
Sunnybank Hills
black lined, candy colors to fill them with clear decals then cleared. Do you know how the other clear machines did thier transparent but colord backglass? that looks good but its hard to make out the graphic with the mechanics visible. Not that this isnt already AWSOME...if you could do that to the playfied 
or a clear overlay with the design and have multiple like tearoffs but one at a time.
Quoted from woka:Maybe cutting a lexan overlay playfield protector and applying the decals to the underside of it.?
Will protect the original surface nicely as well..
Great idea, but if you're going to do that why put the decals on the underside? Put the decals on the playfield and then just have a non-adhesive removable/replaceable playfield protector similar to the ones being sold commercially, only thicker.
Quoted from dothedoo:Great idea, but if you're going to do that why put the decals on the underside? Put the decals on the playfield and then just have a non-adhesive removable/replaceable playfield protector similar to the ones being sold commercially, only thicker.
That the Makrolon stuff rd suggested a few posts back. not a bad idea at all.
So, that all sounds pretty good. If I can etch in the design and then obtain and custom cut a piece of that playfield cover material it should solve most of my problems.
Makrolon is a brand of polycarbonate produced under the parent company Bayer. Here's the 3/8" version I cut for my cabinet bottom.
IMG_5830.JPG
.75mm? Seriously??? That's like 3/100s of an inch. When I read the PinballNews review of the product I wondered why they made such a big deal out of being careful to peel the packing tape off of it. Now I get it - that crap is literally razor thin. I would guess I could cut it with scissors?
The next step will be to see where I can get it from. Next I'll see how good a cut I can get from my Silhouette to determine the amount of detail I can put on the graphics. I hope to get it all but I may have to dumb it down some. We'll see. Thanks again for all the suggestions and keep 'em coming!
So tricky to find a good playfield solution because on a standard playfield the inserts are the only clear part - the rest is wood and doesn't let light through. With this project, the entire playfield is clear, so how do you illuminate one insert??
Why even have inserts?
...bead/sand blast an image of the playfield graphics, including inserts on the bottom side of the playfield. Light it up and play on it.
...that's my drunk and completely uneducated suggestion. 
I like the idea of a kind of overlay protector on top of etching, but I wonder about another potential solution along these lines. You've got an overall thickness to the playfield that you're aiming for. Would it be possible to sandwich two thinner pieces together to equal the desired total thickness? Maybe the top layer is thinner than the bottom layer. Then you can etch the underside of top layer so that the etching appears close to the top, but ultimately the top side is smooth.
Hey - If you decide you want to do the buttons in clear or frosted... waltz on over to:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/button-patentcopyright-owner#post-1840611
I created CAD models of this era's Button and housing and you can order it off shapeways.
I kinda think the clear frosted might look ok.
Quoted from SunKing:...bead/sand blast an image of the playfield graphics, including inserts on the bottom side of the playfield. Light it up and play on it.
There's like 8 billion screws that go into the bottom of the playfield and I think it would make the graphics pretty well torn up by the time it was done. Plus the perspective would be off a bit.
Quoted from winteriscoming:Would it be possible to sandwich two thinner pieces together to equal the desired total thickness?
Again, perspective comes into play. When you consider how the graphics tie into placement of posts, buttons, pop bumpers and even lane guides, unless you are viewing from a directly overhead angle, it ain't gonna look right.
Quoted from Zitt:I created CAD models of this era's Button and housing and you can order it off shapeways.
I kinda think the clear frosted might look ok.
Personally, I think the polished silver would look better, but juuuuuuuuuust a touch over my budget.
I agree, the frosted would be awesome lit up. Right now that kind of stuff is on the "details" list for when I get to the end. Thanks for opening my eyes to Shapeways. I knew these places existed having read about them in PM and such, but never saw a personal need until now. (When I get to my EBD I may need to get some of those Bally light shrouds.) It's great that guys like you are doing the work like this so the rest of us can reap the benefits!
2 weeks later
I sure hope you can finish this project and bring it to the Houston Arcade Expo Nov 7th and 8th.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2014-houston-arcade-expo-nov-7-8th-dirty-donny-to-return#post-1871897
Me too!! But seriously, lots of life keeps getting in the way of my "free" time. I'm still cleaning up my P/F scans to solid line drawings that will translate to the cutter machine to make the stencils for the P/F art. I have a potential source for the wafer thin overlay, still working on that.
Meanwhile, I have managed to solve the ugly plug problem for all of the light segments. All of the RGB leds will be powered from the same source. The easy answer is to just wire them together. The reality is that I still need to be able to disassemble and reassemble the machine. After trying a dozen or so online resources I came to the conclusion that either what I am looking for does not exist, or I simply don't know what terms to use in a search. Sooooooo, I said to myself, "self, why don't you breadboard this problem and go from there?" Problem solved. I'll make it myself with some breadboard and .10 plugs and pins. Done. Pics soon.
Even if you put the original playfield in, that will be a sight to see your progress.
It will get you in for free for the weekend if you bring it. 
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Personally, I think the polished silver would look better, but juuuuuuuuuust a touch over my budget. I agree, the frosted would be awesome lit up. Right now that kind of stuff is on the "details" list for when I get to the end. Thanks for opening my eyes to Shapeways. I knew these places existed having read about them in PM and such, but never saw a personal need until now. (When I get to my EBD I may need to get some of those Bally light shrouds.) It's great that guys like you are doing the work like this so the rest of us can reap the benefits!
Well; watch the mirror universe thread sometime next week... I got frosted detail on the way along with polished metallic housings. Shapeways should ship tomorrow. Wasn't cheap; but necessary when they go with the Nacelle Flipper button mods I have built.
Quoted from KingNine:Plus if I get you to say yes he'll let me in free too won't you?
Only the person bringing a game gets a free weekend pass for each game that is brought.
Though you still have to register your games. We ran out of room the last 2 years, so don't delay.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Only the person bringing a game gets a free weekend pass for each game that is brought.
Though you still have to register your games. We ran out of run the last 2 years, so don't delay.
I was just messing with ya.
1 week later
OK. 3 straight weekends of overtime and a retiled kitchen later, we're back. I think I have a complete handle on the playfield now. It will have the graphics, or a toned down version thereof, sandblasted into the top of it like the case sides. I will then cover it with a custom cut sheet of .03" polycarbonate. Hopefully this will give us a good looking smooth surface to play upon.
In other news, this mess is completely unacceptable...
IMG_0491.JPG
The problem is to be able to plug all the different sections of LEDs that light up the case into a single power source. I could wire them all together but then I would not be able to easily separate the parts and pieces for transport/setup/etc. I wasted a lot of time looking for the right thing when all I had to do was just make it. So I did.
A slice of breadboard with the power plug soldered in.
IMG_0481.JPG
On the backside, I connected the rows with that magical copper tape.
IMG_0486.JPG
Quoted from Zitt:Mk1, you should pmed me... would have created a OSHPark PCB for you. but nice work
Yeah, this! It is very cheap to do too.
--Scott
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Looked up OSHPark. Pretty cool. Will tuck that into the bag o' tricks for future reference. Thanks!
I could have done one on the router too. Especially being that simple.
Quoted from Pintucky:" . . .and Bob IS your uncle, bitches!!"
I nearly fell out of bed laughing at that!!! Everything was so 'techy' up until then . . . you took me off guard!
Mike in Kentucky
Same thing here. That was some comedic timing.
1 week later
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Looks to be Houston Arcade Expo ready? Nov 7th and 8th is just around the corner.
readin' my mind
Finally got all the playfield art cleaned up. Should be sand blasting this weekend. This'll help. Took only 10 days to make it here from Cali via China.
IMG_0918.JPG
Also got my play field shield in. Current plan is to make a paper pattern once the upper field is mostly populated. I'll transfer that to the acrylic and then cut it with a scroll saw and sand it smooth. Really need to move to Austin so I can utilize TechShop. Laser cutters, etc.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:I'll transfer that to the acrylic and then cut it with a scroll saw and sand it smooth. Really need to move to Austin so I can utilize TechShop. Laser cutters, etc.
Write when you get work.
I don't think you could cut this with the Laser cutter. Too big. Limited by 28.7" x 17".
You'd probably want to cnc it... or maybe water jet it.
Have you told the wife your moving yet?
Ha! She'd love to be there too but there's no work that I can see. The neighbor behind me is a college prof trying to find a job there and can't. I'd probably have a better shot with the skilled labor market than her with the academics. Still loving life here on the coast, but the day will come when I'm ready to move inland.
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