(Topic ID: 294827)

The 1971 Project : help me get these machines back in shape!

By Gott72

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 10 months ago by Gott72
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There are 67 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 1 year ago

1971.... what a year.... let's see... there was...

Vietnam, Attica Riots, Apollo missions, "All In The Family" started, Charles Manson found guilty of Murder, Jim Morrison of the Doors died, USA left the gold standard, Walt Disney World opened, D.B. Cooper, ....golly... what a depressing year... BUT, WAIT!

There were some fantastic PINBALL machines launched by Gottlieb! And I have two, in my current possession, that need some serious care.

ASTRO and NOW.

Help me revive them. I'll be posting in this thread, asking questions, posting updates, etc. Hopefully I'll paint the cabinets this summer, Astro has a BGRestro glass on the way, Astro got new plastics today, there are $800 of parts coming from PBResouce, and quite. few concerns to cover.

ASTRO (500 made) has :
• No power switch or plate under the machine
• Permanently locked in a game with FIVE balls to go
• Pop Bumpers won't score
• No CHIMES! despite chimes inside cabinet

NOW (1250 made) has :
• Pop bumpers that won't score, along with possibly other non-scoring parts in the game
• Possible lack of slingshot action (I need to see the game in action and/or buy a schematic)
• Various lights malfunctioning
• No chimes! despite chimes being inside cabinet
• Wrong target faces that won't score when they pop down into the playfield.
• Trajectory problems (mild) in the two kickers down front.

Both will need playfield touchup in the future. ASTRO is beat, NOW is fairly good.

Score reels reset properly. I'll exchange most all plastic parts and rubbers, posts, etc.

Please give me any advice, here, if possible. I never had non-scoring components on the games I have owned.

Thanks!

IMG_0229 (resized).jpegIMG_0230 (resized).jpegIMG_0231 (resized).jpegIMG_0232 (resized).jpegIMG_0233 (resized).jpegIMG_0234 (resized).jpegIMG_0235 (resized).jpeg
#2 1 year ago

My first problem: no switch OR switch plate inside the ASTRO. I can find the switches, but not the metal plate. Does anyone know a place that has these plates? Are they common electrical items from a hardware store, or specific to Gottlieb? Thanks for the help.

First image is from NOW, the second is from ASTRO...

IMG_0236 (resized).jpegIMG_0237 (resized).jpeg
#3 1 year ago

I suggest that you being by acquiring schematics for the machines, assuming you don't have them.
You can probably download them from the pinball database IPDB.com
It would be better to have paper copies so you can highlight areas that you test that work properly, in the effort to location problem areas.
As far as missing parts, I am not sure exactly where to look.
You might start here: http://www.pbresource.com/index.html
Good luck on that.

#4 1 year ago

Gottlieb usually used two power switch mounting plates per game. Note that the center portion of the plate has been stamped to have a slightly recessed circular area. What GTB would do is to orient the top plate so that the bulging-out side of the recess faced the switch. The nut to hold switch shaft to the plate was then installed to attach the switch to the top plate.

Next, the bottom plate would be oriented so that the bulging-out side of the recess faced away from the switch. The bottom plate rested against the top plate, and the recessed portion of the two plates created a space for the switch mounting nut, while also covering the nut so that it could not be unscrewed from outside the cabinet. This double-plate assembly was then screwed to the inside of the cabinet on the wooden switch block to mount the entire switch assembly to the cabinet bottom.

In short, you may have an "extra" switch mounting plate (the bottom plate) on your NOW game that you can borrow to use on your Astro. If you do this, of course, neither game will have protection against someone unscrewing the switch mounting nut from the outside of the game. Unless you plan on putting these machines on location, hopefully that isn't something you need to be too concerned about.

- TimMe

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from Dent00:

I suggest that you being by acquiring schematics for the machines, assuming you don't have them.
You can probably download them from the pinball database IPDB.com
It would be better to have paper copies so you can highlight areas that you test that work properly, in the effort to location problem areas.
As far as missing parts, I am not sure exactly where to look.
You might start here: http://www.pbresource.com/index.html
Good luck on that.

This is great advice, I just want to mention that GTB schematics are not available for free download online. The current copyright owner is still licensing these schematics, so the good news is that you can (and should) purchase copies from The Pinball Resource if you don't already have them.

- TimMe

#6 1 year ago

Oh, yes--schematics are ordered.

Did anyone ever try one of these?

https://www.delcity.net/store/Recessed-Toggle-Switch/p_820346.h_820347.r_IF1003?mkwid=s&crid=&mp_kw=&mp_mt=e&msclkid=16bbc5bed77d16068afda57fc6b9dc60&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20-%20Switches&utm_term=4577404348781905&utm_content=Switches%20-%20Toggle

It looks promising.

Screen Shot 2021-06-09 at 4.29.43 PM (resized).png

Naturally it attaches below the cab, but I am not looking into having this game in an arcade.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

It looks promising.

I like this a lot. Do you know if it’s rated for line voltage? It seems so.

Not sure if you want to go this route when it may be pretty basic to recreate the original switch plate, but this would make for a great retrofit.

#8 1 year ago

kinkyinky post pics of that Astro pf you are doing for me...

#9 1 year ago

I wonder if DesiLu sued Gottlieb for using the term "STAR TREK" on the inserts.

#10 1 year ago

It is odd and awkward that they used STAR TREK, openly, unabashedly. Perhaps, since Star Trek was cancelled by 1971, Hollywood was writing it off as a trademark. Syndication was just beginning to get big at that time, though.

Quoted from AndrewP:

I like this a lot. Do you know if it’s rated for line voltage? It seems so.
Not sure if you want to go this route when it may be pretty basic to recreate the original switch plate, but this would make for a great retrofit.

10 amps, 12 VAC.... I think the electric is stepped down already, so it should work, but I'm not going to swear on it.

However, I was more interested in using the plate and conjoining with another switch.

Quoted from pinhead52:

kinkyinky post pics of that Astro pf you are doing for me...

I'd love to see pf work. I probably won't do mine until 2022, but I have to get it done--especially on ASTRO.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

Did anyone ever try one of these? [Cole Hersee Recessed Toggle Switch & Guard]

Weird that the product info doesn't tell you how many amps the switch is rated for. In this application, you would have line voltage going through those screw terminals on the back, so you would want some form of protective insulation above the switch. I like the guard (metal cup), though, and would be tempted to buy just the guard from that source and get a toggle switch elsewhere. There is a standard size hole for such switches; a toggle switch from the hardware store should fit in that guard.
.................David Marston

#12 1 year ago

The data sheet says 25 amps at 12VDC lamp load.

Anyway, I think you can get these parts from Pinball Resource.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

Did anyone ever try one of these?

My preferred method on "keeper" machines is the one TimMe suggested or to use a plate from a scrapped machine. If it is not a keeper, I drill a 1/2" hole in a thin piece of sheet metal (usually aluminum) and put in a new switch from the hardware store. You are buying yourself a extra work with that part and it will not look as original, plus it will be more expensive.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

10 amps, 12 VAC.... I think the electric is stepped down already, so it should work

Nope. Don't use this switch. The power switch for Astro is on the primary side of the transformer, running at 120 VAC. EM pingame transformers of this vintage typically pull between 1 and 2 amps at 120 VAC when the machine is idle, and probably 3 amps + under heavy load (during game reset, for example).

You can always get a rough idea of what a circuit like this will need to handle by looking at the primary fuse rating. The GTB games of this era were typically fused at 5 amps, so you can expect that the primary side of the transformer will (at most) pull about 66% of the fuse rating (in this case 3.3 amps) under normal usage.

If it were me, I would want to put in a power switch rated at 120 VAC @ 10 amp or 15 amp. The extra margin of current capability is insurance against having the switch fail prematurely under normal usage.

- TimMe

#15 1 year ago

I worked on that NOW today.... embarrassed, but found a cause of almost all the troubles: a THIRD jones plug to the upper was not plugged in and sagging in the back of the cabinet!! Its receptacle was cleverly hidden behind score reel braids. Oh the shame!

That corrected almost everything, so the current list of defects now reads...

NOW (1250 made) :
• ONE drop target, of eight, doesn't score
• Trajectory problems (mild) in the two kickers down front
• Various cosmetic problems to be repaired this summer: coin door, plastic bits, rubber bits, cabinet respray, coin slots, targets replaced, etc.

It's a beautiful machine for 50 years age. A tad dirty inside. Works well, might need pep in the flippers. Fun and striking art of the psychedelic era!!
A good player in present condition.
I'll post photos when cleaned up.

Quoted from TimMe:

If it were me, I would want to put in a power switch rated at 120 VAC @ 10 amp or 15 amp. The extra margin of current capability is insurance against having the switch fail prematurely under normal usage.
- TimMe

Noted. Thanks for the word of caution. I hadn't checked the schematic before I spoke.

#16 1 year ago

Here's a start and a part way done image of the pf. I like how Brian (kinkyinky) can lighten the wood and remove some of the UV fade from the pf.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image2 (resized).png
#17 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Here's a start and a part way done image of the pf. I like how Brian (kinkyinky) can lighten the wood and remove some of the UV fade from the pf.

Ugh. I wish my playfield was in that shape. Looks beautiful when stripped down!

This one, I just took off the posts and plastics and rings and lights... and it looks dirtier than your upper pic.

I swear this game was never serviced in 50 years, aside from rubber rings circa 2000 and probably some bulbs, but the bulbs look like 1970s originals! It has copious litter and old bulbs scattered inside the cabinet.

I tossed it all--using new bulbs and posts and rings and plastics (thanks to you).

At this moment I am closing on a house in Palm Desert. Hopefully I can get a tech from the PB Museum to get my playfield stripped, sent out for art restore, and put together back in the machine later this year or next.

2 weeks later
#18 1 year ago

Update....

ASTRO (500 made) has :
• Some chimes ... gotta clean contacts
• Needed a cabinet respray
• Playfield is worn

NOW (1250 made) has :
• Some chimes are weak
• A target face that won't score when it pops down into the playfield.
• Needs cabinet respray

I've been replacing all plastic and rubber and lights. Ran into trouble with one leaf switch for stationary target, looking for somewhere that offers a replacement target leaf.... or whole switch mechanism. Been getting good at drilling out and re-riveting target faces.

I still have a few pop bumper parts coming, but I replaced half of the bumpers.

Games play well, score well, and have good flipper power. Most of the problems are now cosmetic. I replaced the shooter mechs and coin slot areas.

2 weeks later
#19 1 year ago

I've been perplexed by the credit scoring of NOW: here are photos...
IMG_0354 (resized).JPGIMG_0358 (resized).JPG

I am trying to get the first game to be awarded @ 6800 points.... it always hits @ 7000 points!

What am I doing wrong, or what might be going wrong in this case?

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

I've been perplexed by the credit scoring of NOW: here are photos...
[quoted image][quoted image]
I am trying to get the first game to be awarded @ 6800 points.... it always hits @ 7000 points!
What am I doing wrong, or what might be going wrong in this case?

Looks like math, screw that, I wanna play pinball!!

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Looks like math, screw that, I wanna play pinball!!

To be clear: that is the SIX pin, and it appears to me to be in the 800 hole.... 6800, right?

Why 7000 points for the first knocker/credit?

#22 1 year ago

What happens when you move the 6 wire to different holes?

#23 1 year ago

Damn!
those are some really great looking games.
don't own any EM but best of luck with them!

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

My first problem: no switch OR switch plate inside the ASTRO. I can find the switches, but not the metal plate. Does anyone know a place that has these plates? Are they common electrical items from a hardware store, or specific to Gottlieb? Thanks for the help.
First image is from NOW, the second is from ASTRO...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Obviously the real original parts are always preferred, but I've had to resort to 3D printing my own plates and switch covers while doing restorations. Recently most of the power switches I've bought have had a super flimsy plastic body and threads and break almost immediately. I finally sourced some that are metal recently and bought extras. Hopefully you can find OEM stuff, but if not here is the link to my related shop items:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1312-space-coast-pinball/04942-switch-cover-power-switch-and-plate-fits-various-gottlieb-

#25 1 year ago

assuming the reel is the kind with a wiper/contact plate, the most likely thing is the wiper finger is mounted on the shaft wrong.

I don't have a schem for that game. If you do, look at see what wire is feeding the common wiper on the 1000 reel (the inner wiper that runs around a ring on the contact plate).

power off, stick an ohmeter probe on that wire and other probe stick on each score plug until you see what plug is active for the number on the reel. If it isn't the plug the schem / plug chart says it should be, then the wiper is on wrong.

if you don't have a schem, post pics of the 1000's reel contact plate wiring and as much of the traces on the plate as you can.

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from baldtwit:

assuming the reel is the kind with a wiper/contact plate, the most likely thing is the wiper finger is mounted on the shaft wrong.
I don't have a schem for that game. If you do, look at see what wire is feeding the common wiper on the 1000 reel (the inner wiper that runs around a ring on the contact plate).
power off, stick an ohmeter probe on that wire and other probe stick on each score plug until you see what plug is active for the number on the reel. If it isn't the plug the schem / plug chart says it should be, then the wiper is on wrong.
if you don't have a schem, post pics of the 1000's reel contact plate wiring and as much of the traces on the plate as you can.

SO! You are onto it. My 1st player 1000 reel is indeed a big butt pain! I haven't gotten into it, yet, but it doesn't reset properly sometimes--it gets hung up on the 8 and won't go to zero. After that it works fine and records score, just won't reset properly. I'll check that out soon.

Thanks for that directional help/suggestion. I figured the bonus came from elsewhere in the game. I'll try a 2-player and see if the second records properly.

Quoted from Randy_G:

Damn!
those are some really great looking games.
don't own any EM but best of luck with them!

Thanks! Those are the un-doctored games when I first got them. Maybe later today, or tomorrow, I'll post the recent state of those two. NOW is almost done: needs cabinet repaint next week and some minor work inside. Both have had all plastic and rubber renewed, all lights replaced, etc.

ASTRO will get a new backglass in a couple months, and hopefully a cabinet respray in August.

Quoted from John_I:

Obviously the real original parts are always preferred, but I've had to resort to 3D printing my own plates and switch covers while doing restorations. Recently most of the power switches I've bought have had a super flimsy plastic body and threads and break almost immediately. I finally sourced some that are metal recently and bought extras. Hopefully you can find OEM stuff, but if not here is the link to my related shop items:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1312-space-coast-pinball/04942-switch-cover-power-switch-and-plate-fits-various-gottlieb-

Someone sold me what seems to be an original power switch for the game, and I had someone print out the cover... was it you?

Now, ASTRO is back in order with switch and cover plastic.

The game works fine, except I haven't taken time to rework the bonus scoring and it will knock out extra balls like popcorn popping once you are above circa 80K. I hope the pins are merely stuck in everywhere and merely need removing and organizing.

#27 1 year ago

Made a video about the two as they are at this time.

ASTRO displays lack of chimes on almost everything aside from slings. Ideas? I'll get to that later.

#28 1 year ago

usually no chimes/bells means the contact on the scoring relay (in head) has a dirty contact. With the game in playing mode manually depress the 100s relay and rock it slightly back and forth. You'll probably hear it then. Identify the contact on the relay by wire color code and clean and gap.

And yes you need a much better pf. jrpinball may have a lead on one

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

usually no chimes/bells means the contact on the scoring relay (in head) has a dirty contact. With the game in playing mode manually depress the 100s relay and rock it slightly back and forth. You'll probably hear it then. Identify the contact on the relay by wire color code and clean and gap.

That's the thing I still need to get to on both machines--cleaning the score reel switches on ASTRO 100 and NOW 1000-1st player. Thank you for pointing me in that direction.

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

usually no chimes/bells means the contact on the scoring relay (in head) has a dirty contact. With the game in playing mode manually depress the 100s relay and rock it slightly back and forth.

Well-well-well.... the hundreds reel DOES have a slight malfunction going down.... with is this switch for? This is the first time I plumbed the head box of Astro. Scoring is kept well! However, the chimes don't work on 100 and 1000. I was cleaning the switches on those two, rubbing that gentle sand paper file-stuff between contacts everywhere... no deal with a solution, but I found this baby snapped off and wrinkled up in some form of pinball malfeasance.

IMG_0364 (resized).JPG
#31 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

Well-well-well.... the hundreds reel DOES have a slight malfunction going down.... with is this switch for? This is the first time I plumbed the head box of Astro. Scoring is kept well! However, the chimes don't work on 100 and 1000. I was cleaning the switches on those two, rubbing that gentle sand paper file-stuff between contacts everywhere... no deal with a solution, but I found this baby snapped off and wrinkled up in some form of pinball malfeasance.
[quoted image]

Score reel EOS switch. These are often found missing, broken, or mangled. Usually this isn't tragic; the reel will operate without it. It's meant to assure a full stroke of the score reel plunger. Better to repair them though, and the good news is, PBR just recently started making them available. Let Steve know the game they're being used for.

#32 1 year ago

But your chime issue is on the scoring relays, M N L etc not the reel itself

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

But your chime issue is on the scoring relays, M N L etc not the reel itself

This is true. However, those EOS switches assure that the scoring relay stays energized until the score reel plunger makes a full stroke. That means the M,N, or L relays will stay powered until the corresponding EOS switch opens. Since the chime contacts share those relays with the score reels themselves, the broken or missing EOS switch could have some effect on the chime operation. Better to replace them, and as pinhead52 implies, clean and properly adjust all the switches on those three relays. Always snug the switch stack screws first before adjusting contact blades.

#34 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

I've been perplexed by the credit scoring of NOW: here are photos...
[quoted image][quoted image]
I am trying to get the first game to be awarded @ 6800 points.... it always hits @ 7000 points!
What am I doing wrong, or what might be going wrong in this case?

It could be that the wiper on the 1000's score reel isn't properly installed. It should be installed so that the tab with the contact point is pointing between number four and number five on the score reel.

#35 1 year ago

Update....

ASTRO (500 made) has :
• Needs a cabinet respray
• Playfield is worn
• Add-A-Ball scoring does mystery-multiple balls at weird intervals: as soon as all letters are lit, odd times during free-ball play (cross switch?), etc.

NOW (1250 made) has :
• Needs cabinet respray
• 1000s reel-1st player doesn't reset properly, usually hung up on 7 or 8

Quoted from jrpinball:

This is true. However, those EOS switches assure that the scoring relay stays energized until the score reel plunger makes a full stroke. That means the M,N, or L relays will stay powered until the corresponding EOS switch opens. Since the chime contacts share those relays with the score reels themselves, the broken or missing EOS switch could have some effect on the chime operation.

Found the switches responsible, adjusted, and now the 100s and 1000s chime when scored. It was in those two relays. I always thought "score reel" when you guys wrote "score relay". Simple fix.

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

Add-A-Ball scoring does mystery-multiple balls at weird intervals: as soon as all letters are lit, odd times during free-ball play (cross switch?), etc.

Check the gap between the switch contacts on the two stand-up targets which award WOWs when lit. Probably too close, and any vibration (i.e. pop bumper action) causes the switch to momentarily close.

#37 1 year ago
Quoted from Gott72:

Update....
ASTRO (500 made) has :
• Needs a cabinet respray
• Playfield is worn
• Add-A-Ball scoring does mystery-multiple balls at weird intervals: as soon as all letters are lit, odd times during free-ball play (cross switch?), etc.
NOW (1250 made) has :
• Needs cabinet respray
• 1000s reel-1st player doesn't reset properly, usually hung up on 7 or 8

Found the switches responsible, adjusted, and now the 100s and 1000s chime when scored. It was in those two relays. I always thought "score reel" when you guys wrote "score relay". Simple fix.

I gave cab scans to Pimp for Now, yer all set for that repaint. Im going to make my own re-useable stencils for Astro since I have two games to do.

#38 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I gave cab scans to Pimp for Now, yer all set for that repaint. Im going to make my own re-useable stencils for Astro since I have two games to do.

I would love to have stencils rather than make my own with mylar.... which I was going to do today or tomorrow for the top cab.

Guess I have to make my Astro stencils. I contacted Pimp multiple times to have Astro made from my cab, but no response.

2 weeks later
#39 1 year ago

Cabinets getting stripped today and tomorrow, repainting during the week.

NOW is having cabinet and head and collar done
ASTRO is having the head and collar done
and they are joined by
KING KOOL 1972--head and collar done at this time, the body will be done in about 2 weeks when these are all together.

I'll have 3 newly painted machines by September. I hope.

IMG_0379 (resized).jpeg

For 50 year old plywood, these cabinets are in really nice shape. Only a tad of putty on ASTRO will be needed.
IMG_0377 (resized).jpeg

New coin doors ready to go!
New, colored, electric cords, ready to go!
On top, I hope to polish the rails until they are highly reflective, using alumicut and various sand disks and polishing solutions.

In another week, we might see photos here.

1 week later
#40 1 year ago

Cabinets going into stencil mode....

IMG_0392 (resized).jpeg
#41 1 year ago

IMG_0407 (resized).jpeg

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#42 1 year ago
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#43 1 year ago

Thank you for sharing the progress. Those cabinets look great!

#44 1 year ago
Quoted from bonzo71:

Thank you for sharing the progress. Those cabinets look great!

Thanks! I wish I had more time to slap them together and finish off the project, but it'll get there in a few more weeks.

Here is the progress. A few more pieces together and the playfield can get in there.

IMG_0417 (resized).jpeg
#45 1 year ago

Today: 95% done. Glass + rails to go.

IMG_0418 (resized).jpegIMG_0419 (resized).jpegIMG_0420 (resized).jpegIMG_0421 (resized).jpegIMG_0422 (resized).jpegIMG_0423 (resized).jpegIMG_0424 (resized).jpeg
#46 1 year ago

Today I stripped off KING KOOL's main cabinet and need to get it out to the garage to strip two layers of paint.

The OLD PAINT....under the rails... it's so ugly. I'm not sure what the original color was, since the paints can age and look hellishly ugly after 50 years.
A newer paint job was applied about a year ago by the person I purchased the game from. He didn't like the ugly violet, either. His choice was to use white. Despite hand painting, it wasn't so bad, once the metal was polished and renewed, but I wanted a proper paint job.

Originally I was going to do a proper and thorough layer of white. In the end, the purists on PInside made me bend and go for something closer to the original. However, I couldn't go for that ugly purple. IT IS DEPRESSINGLY DISMAL. My final paint choice was French Lilac 2x by Rustoleum. It brings out the new backglass (by BGRESTO) brilliantly!! Look at how the colors work with that original art... it was bedazzling when I put the back together yesterday.

I suspect it will be two weeks before the KING KOOL cab is painted and reassembled.

WHAT I LEARNED FROM PAINTING, and what you might want to know------> Use Rustoleum, DO NOT USE MONTANA CANS.

I began with the thought that I wanted THE BEST. So I ordered a ton of Montana cans in all the colors I needed, along with primers and base colors and gloss finishes. I'd use Montana ONLY for the stencil colors, unless you can find the proper color with Rustoleum.

Reasons I will NEVER buy Montana again:

1) Very little pigment/spray/volume compared to Rustoleum or other mainstream sprays
2) Cans are extremely easy to clog, and your $10 flushes away without even one spray to the cabinet
3) Unless you shake these cans for 20+ minutes, the color is globular, and specks are everywhere, even after shaking 30 minutes, I've still had beads coming out
4) Chalky finish to colors
5) Splatters constantly on some cans, no matter what goes on with shaking and time shaken. Paint then dribbles all over your hand. Very few cans stayed clean and consistent
6) Price is insane, compared to locally available cheap-ies like Rustoleum. Rustoleum is circa $4-4.50/can in the US. Montana from Dick Blick is $8-$12/can.

You can find your own results, if you don't believe my breakdown. I blew hundreds of dollars on Montana and wound up having to complete the job with the excellent Rustoleum.

MINOR TROUBLE: you can see how layering of paint and gloss caused some wrinkling of the base coats. This might be due to several things.

1) Gloss was applied too thick over base coat (base coats did have over 24 hours to dry as per instructions)
2) Gloss was applied in 95º heat.... it was an extremely hot week when the gloss went down
3) High humidity
4) Layering of Rustoleum over Montana might have had a lack of cohesiveness

Taking apart these games was SO DIFFICULT the first time (when I did lesser work to KING KOOL in Feb-Mar.).
NOW came a few weeks ago, and it was still rather tough to disassemble.
KING KOOL came apart quick and easy this morning, knowing exactly where all the screws are, and how to unfasten layers of metal enshrouding the wood.

Once you learn how they made these, it is super easy to work on. For nobodies: take it slow and learn it, especially if you plan to restore several machines. The first will be a PITA, and then it gets simple.

ASTRO's body comes to the paint booth in 2 weeks.

All 6 side rails will be prepped for high-polish attempts in 2-3 weeks. I'm going to use a grinder with hook-n-loop pads @ 220-400-600-800-1200-2000-3000 grit, followed by steel rub down with liquid polish and a buffing pad. My plan is to get mirror-like shine on the side rails, or at best a clean set of rails with rather smooth finish providing some luxurious luster. Photos to come.

By October I hope these are all together, because we are moving house.

IMG_0425 (resized).jpegIMG_0426 (resized).jpegIMG_0427 (resized).jpegIMG_0428 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#47 1 year ago

New Astro back glass and cab repaint.

0EDD9D04-148F-4193-9457-222A14A094D3 (resized).jpeg201FFE86-C752-474B-83D7-16F4494EA36E (resized).jpeg8948F037-649E-4F5A-8949-100DAAB0E854 (resized).jpeg
#48 1 year ago

Nice work.

If you want to easily get the stainless steel on your games back to close to factory finish for little cost AND effort, buy one or two of these.
https://www.rshughes.com/p/3M-Scotch-Brite-CB-ZS-Coated-Aluminum-Oxide-Flap-Wheel-X-Weight-1-3-4-In-Face-Width-3-In-Diameter-80799/051144_80799/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpreJBhDvARIsAF1_BU29pTNs71xXL_VJnpSJUt6dk0xN727ihPF5VSFWfTcjHXkTgq5XNowaAmWKEALw_wcB

I would expect one of these to get you through all 3 games. It won't polish them but will provide very close to the grain finish they came with from the factory.

The biggest issue is being able to run the wheel straight down the rail. If you can chuck your drill in a fixed position and guide the rail through the flapper wheel you will be amazed by the results.

I do the top of the side rails and the lockdown bar on every game that comes through and they look new. The one thing they don't overcome is deep scratches.

#49 1 year ago

King Kool coming close to an end, then Astro's main body.

IMG_0438 (resized).jpeg

Quoted from MikeO:

Nice work.
If you want to easily get the stainless steel on your games back to close to factory finish for little cost AND effort, buy one or two of these.... The one thing they don't overcome is deep scratches.

Thanks. I'm going to try something odd, but not too odd. A while back there was an Atlantis for sale that had mirror polish rails. At first I thought he got them coated, then realized you can polish them up to be mirror-finish.

So I'm set to do that in circa 2 weeks with all 6 rails for these 3 machines. I have a grinder with a hook-loop disc, and a series of grits from 220-3000, a buffer, some ultra-fine steel wool, and polish. So we'll see what it comes out to look like. Most likely I'll get it smoother than the original. If it works perfectly, those rails will look like chrome.

#50 1 year ago

KING KOOL is finished paint, got a new power cord, and going into final assembly...

IMG_0444 (resized).jpeg

Astro has been stripped, small areas of wood paste applied, and it gets lightly sanded tomorrow and goes into priming and then white coat. About a week and a half and that machine will get reassembled, I hope.

IMG_0448 (resized).jpegIMG_0449 (resized).jpegIMG_0447 (resized).jpeg
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