The 1964 Williams Palooka Club - Welcome!


By PinballFever

2 years ago


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  • 66 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by stashyboy
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There are 66 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexF:

Didn't Cowman used to own that one. I seem to remember the custom paint.

Yep, I picked it up from him a year or 2 ago. I pretty much had it working other than the center rollover switch wasn't awarding points, but now the score motor just runs. I've been putting off looking at it for almost a year and I came to the realization that I just really don't enjoy working on EM games, I prefer working on SS games. Hopefully it will be a straightforward fix for someone.

2 months later
#52 2 years ago

Hi Guys,

Starting to explore my Palooka and have a couple questions for owners.

First, What legs do you have and do you think they are original? I have some 27" legs for mine that seem to have just a rough steel finish on them. Ran them thru the Evapo-rust, but they will either want to be painted (hammer-tone grey) or plated, though that option is quite costly. What do you have? Search on IPDb proves inconclusive.

Secondly, I have a hole in one of my pop caps (not unlike Bruce's). It's the center one with 'Jet' and mustard colored outer flange. If anyone has upgraded theirs with new from PBR, perhaps willing to pass their old one along? I could get one from Steve, but would rather have original to match the patina of the originals.

Really excited to get this one playing in the near future.

Thanks, Mark

1 month later
#53 2 years ago

Apparently, I now own Cowman and Eric_S's old Palooka. Looks like I'm in the club!

Old ad: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-palooka-williams-1964-1965 I picked it up via eBay.

It works, but there is quite a bit of project left in this bruiser.

6 months later
#54 1 year ago

Update:

I cleaned up and waxed the game because a friend is coming up for a visit.

Can't figure out how to remove the passive bumper caps. It looks like there's some kind of a hinge as shown in the image but twisting etc doesn't loosen the old caps.

Does anyone know how to remove the caps? I took a photo showing the white "hinge".

Also do you tape over the clear areas when you triple thick the backglass? Painter's tape?

Bruce

bumper cap hinge (resized).jpg

#55 1 year ago

That "hinge" is probably just some scotch tape someone used in an attempt to hold caps in place.

If you can't get 'your' caps off... somebody likely glued them in place.

#56 1 year ago

Wish I could get them off so I could put the new ones on. I'm afraid it'll break the bumper body in some way.

Quoted from PinballFever:

Btw, the left flipper broke. Will need to replace the part that's broken in the photo. I don't want to get a rebuild kit just for that part.
Bruce

I got new flipper links from PBR and replaced them.

Still need to triple thick the backglass so I can protect it. Do you tape over the clear parts then immediately remove the tape after spraying or let the TT dry then remove the tape?

Bruce

#57 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballFever:

Wish I could get them off so I could put the new ones on. I'm afraid it'll break the bumper body in some way.

I got new flipper links from PBR and replaced them.
Still need to triple thick the backglass so I can protect it. Do you tape over the clear parts then immediately remove the tape after spraying or let the TT dry then remove the tape?
Bruce

The danger is more likely breaking the caps than the bumper bodies.

I thought you were more concerned about breaking those. If you have reproductions to put on and weren't worried about the old caps (I would be) then you could almost cut them off with a dremel tool or coping saw, if you were careful. And even if something happened to the dead bumper bodies, Steve has those too or you could probably chase down a couple of original ones on ebay given enough time.

If you knew what kind of glue was used, you might have a chance that way. For instance, I always use Household Goop to hold my dead bumper caps (and inserts) in place. And if you get into trouble getting something off (or out) then you can take an eye dropper and use a little toluene to get the glue to let go. I had to call the makers of Goop to find this out.... but it was well worth it for the knowledge.

In fact, I underestimated the strength of Goop and put a small amount at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the dead bumper caps to hold them in place on my Spot Bowler. Then, when one of the bulbs burned out... I couldn't get the silly thing off. I would have been screwed if I broke one of them. Luckily, I knew about the toluene and was able to lean the playfield (at the most extreme angle I could) against the head and could then drip some of this solvent down to where it reached one of the small dabs of glue. Then I would put the playfield back down... and gently pull back and forth until I could get it to let go. I had to do this for every one! Even with the toluene, I was afraid I was going to break or crack one of the caps... but luckily, I didn't.

Now, I recommend only using ONE small dab at twelve o'clock inside the dead bumper cap. VERY IMPORTANT!

I might as well get this information out here NOW...

Like Brylcreem... a little dab'll DO ya!!

#58 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballprowess:

That "hinge" is probably just some scotch tape someone used in an attempt to hold caps in place.

I think that's tape. Should peel right off. Used to be my machine, but I don't remember to tell you the truth.

I would get rid of those tall bulbs and put 55s in there instead.

#59 1 year ago
Quoted from o-din:

I think that's tape. Should peel right off. Used to be my machine, but I don't remember to tell you the truth.
I would get rid of those tall bulbs and put 55s in there instead.

Yeah, or 51's.

#60 1 year ago

I use painter''s tape leaving a small 1/32" gap on the windows to avoid taking any ink and allowing the TT to seal the edge. If you get too much build/overspray, it can be very carefully cleaned off. I use an exact knife with magnifying headgear. Let it dry for a few hours before removing the tape mask.

#61 1 year ago

Thanks guys. Good tips.

I decided to put the backglass back in after seeing the back of it. Tape, glue, paint etc was put on the back to cover up the flaking paint and that would need to be removed first before TTing it. I don't think this backglass is worth the trouble of cleaning up the back then TTing and trying to fix it.

I'll try to remove the old bumper caps so I can put the repro ones on and also replace the lights in the backbox board with 55s or 51s.

stashyboy, I'm going to use your tips when I TT a different game soon. (The "Utah" game in a different thread)

Here's the backglass for your review to see if you guys agree with me.

Bruce

Palooka BG behind (resized).jpg

#62 1 year ago

Update: You guys were right. It was tape holding the bumper caps on. I put the new ones on.

Also cleaned up/removed the old playfield wax with ZEP degreaser and put Mother's Carnauba wax on and replaced the bumper lights with 51s then leveled the game.

It plays great now. Here's a photo of it fired up and ready to play.

I'm also including a photo of the lockdown bar end caps that Mike Chestnut chromed for me. Much better than the old pitted end caps that left our hands dirty after playing the game.

Bruce

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#63 1 year ago

Wow, those re-chromed end caps look awesome!

#64 1 year ago

+1 on the re-chromed end caps.

And your backglass is way better than mine. I'm jealous. One man's trash...

#65 1 year ago

Mike rechromed the caps on my Heat Wave too....they need to be chromed as they discolour if you try to clean them up yourself (just cheap pot metal or something).

The lockdown bar itself is stainless, I sanded mine down to 3000 grit for a mirror finish.

3 months later
#66 1 year ago

Hey guys,
Old thread here, but I just rated the game and was sad to see no one else has yet. Please take the time to give others some insight to what makes this game fun and worth your time and space. Thanks

20160621_171629 (resized).jpg

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