Pretty rare for me to hit the right backhand shot.

Backglass scratch: It was there when I got the machine and I just found that when everything was tightened properly that screw has a reasonable gap to the glass, check it occasionally and it shouldn't hit it. My question is how to go about fixing it now that it's there? (I also have a some scratches on the arc of the lion mech that was also not fastened properly, less noticeable because of the busier artwork there)

Speaking of the lion, has anyone come up with a simple mod that gets the lion to go all the way up? Mine only goes about 1/2 - 2/3 at most. In testing the coil it pulls the rod solidly down but not not to the bottom. When not activating the coil, I can push the rod all the way down. Maybe I have the wrong rod and need a shorter one.

Lastly, if anyone is interested, I have some pics of disassembling my Nell motor to fix it spinning but nothing moving. I read in the Data East owners thread that this is common, but people were saying the gears were stripped inside and there wasn't any fixing it. When I took it apart I found it is unlikely that the gears are actually stripped. I was able to repair it fairly simply.

-Mike

Cool, I'll see how that affects it.

Sorry, I didn't see the requests for these pics earlier. Here are the steps I used to fix my motor.

First cut the lip off around the back half of the casing, this way I could take it apart. I used an air cutoff wheel, but you could a dremel with cutoff discs as well:
CutOutterLip_(resized).png

pic of the motor apart, as you can see all the gears are steel or brass. This is why I would think it unlikely that they would strip as the gears outside the motor are all plastic and I would expect them to break first, but yemv:
SplitOpen_(resized).png

This was the problem set on mine. These two gears are supposed to be pressed together and spin together. Mine were spinning freely of each other:
SlippingGearSet_(resized).png

I could actually just push the smaller one out with with my fingers:
separated_(resized).png

Sorry, I'm don't have a pic of the actual dimpling, but on the larger outside gear, I used a punch or awl to hammer dimples around the inside hole, it is just brass so it's pretty soft. Once the hole had a few compressed deformations, I just used a vice to press the two gears back together. It ended up looking like this:
dimpled_(resized).png

They definitely no longer spun independently. I reassembled with new grease and just used some epoxy to hold the casing together again.
Turns everything again no problems.

Hope this helps.
-Mike

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I do not have that piece of metal on mine. No idea why it would be there.

Ordered!

-Mike

I used them. They are definitely not as narrow. I cut the back of the "L" shape off the metal part of the bracket. I was able to cram them in from the bottom then. Wish there were some replacements that were the original size.

-Mike

Mine does not do that either, but here is why. This is my diverter closed position, you can see how open is still is to allow the ball to come back out if it doesn't make it tot he VUK.

-Mike

20180912_082157 (resized).jpg

Yes. Adjust just like PinballManiac40 said above. When Open (active) it should touch the left orbit, when closed it should look more like my pic. Plenty of room for the ball.

-Mike

edit: if that doesn't seem possible for some reason, you may want to post pics of the coil and linkage under your playfield so we can see what may be up.