Yes.

You can put an adhesive-felt square or circle over the pivot screw in the arm. That's the part that contacts the back of the glass and scratches up the paint.

Whenever I move my R&B when I have to lower the head, I put a piece of heavy packing paper behind the backglass as easy protection.

Unfortunately, pretty much 100% of R&B machines have scratched paint at Bullwinkle's nose, because the damage happened as soon as the game was assembled and folded into the box for shipping.

It would be possible to get replacements made, but it's a real backglass with mirroring, so that's serious dollars, like 300-400.

RussM

Usually the problem is the other way - the Lion coil is overpowered and slams the assembly way too hard.

I have a coil wiring mod to fix this (hitting too hard).

Try taking the Lion arm assy apart, clean everything, especially the pivot point (may be old grease here; re-lube with teflon gel aka SuperLube), and check the coil plunger and nylon coil sleeve is clean and not binding.

RussM

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rb-rocky-and-bullwinkle-mod-to-reduce-power-at-the-lion-backbox-coil

RussM

This?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=54B2842E0E27D3B743F5FCFC3144F834.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=01-3745+

Bracket - lightbox to backbox
#01-3745

L-bracket used to lock lightbox to backbox in many pinball machines.

Reference:

01-3745

There is a gate that is Normally Closed, that will stop the ball and drop it into the 3 lanes.

It is opened by a relay so you can do a full orbit shot when that mode is lit.

RM

Missing_gate_(resized).jpg

The gate could be missing or damaged.
It could be mechanically stuck in the up position.
The transistor controlling the relay could be shorted on so the gate is always up when the game is on.

RM

OK, since well all love our R&B machines so much, are there any code changes that we would like ChadH to make?

One bug I see is that the ending music gets cut off short, possibly when the game is on Free Play.

RussM

I agree, but I'm not sure Chad can add new scoring features.

That's not just code, but audio callouts and animations too (usually)

Combos would be awesome, yes.

RussM

Use warm water and a little dish soap and a soft cloth.

Very safe.

RM

Are you missing a switch on the left - the entrance to the Hat Trick lane?

RM

http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm

Right there.

RussM

I have some R&B parts for sale if anyone needs anything.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rocky-bullwinkle-parts-for-sale

RussM

Are you testing with incandescent or LED bulbs?

RM

They do fine, but since they are diodes, you have to try them in the sockets both ways to make sure they light up (wedge-style #906)

RM

Can you take some pictures of the coils and wiring the way it is now?

Easier to diagnose a wiring issue that way.

RussMyers

That wiring looks correct.

Has to be something else causing that Rhino coil to lock on.

The usual suspect is the transistor has shorted closed.

RussM

If the Rhino coil is locking on, that's the one on the far right.

The white wire is the power wire and the Purple w/Black stripe is the ground for that coil.

First thing, de-solder one end of the jumper wire from that coil that goes back to the Lion coil (the low-power mod) to eliminate it from the circuit and try again.

Does it still lock on?

RM

Yes, on DE sys3 (just like Williams sys11 it copied) the low-power solenoids and flashers share drive transistors and the switch between them is the relay board.

So the Rhino coil locks on but the flashers driven by the same circuit do NOT lock on? Even in Flasher Test?

RM

OK, you have eliminated that mod as a problem.

RM

I don't think so because the coil circuit and flasher circuit are not connected directly together - the relay board bank-switches between them, but I may be wrong and it is possible.

The flashers don't have diodes because they are DC and are not controlled in a matrix the way the controlled lamps are (like inserts).

RM

How do you know the transistor isn't shorted to ground? Because that's the exact behavior.

Also, is there an additional pre-driver transistor in that circuit?

If there is, if either the main drive or pre-driver transistors are shorted, that circuit will lock-on.

RM

OK, let us know.

Something is shorting that particular circuit to ground. You just have to find what is doing it.

When you replaced that transistor, you did clip the legs on the back? They aren't touching the metal backplane?

RM

Does this album help you at all?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/37999418@N04/albums/72157629437568588

RussMyers

That curved metal plate behind the blue target and post - definitely non-factory. Added by someone to help with the ramp damage.

Have a look at these:

http://www.passionforpinball.com/RnB.htm

The before pics show the original setup

RM

If your flippers are weak or very weak for DE machines:

Have they been rebuilt with new parts? Old, worn out flipper parts make the assembly weak.

DE flipper boards use a short pulse at 50volts and then a hold voltage at 9 volts.

If the 50v fuses on the flipper board are blown (or something else is wrong with the 50v circuit) you will only get the 9v hold voltage and the flippers will be weak.

Same thing if the EOS switches are broken or missing - no 50v kick and only the weak 9v hold voltage. NOTE: this only applies to DE games that have EOS switches (JP and later) R&B does not have EOS switches.

RussM

Can you post some pics or video of this happening?

RM

That is odd.

1. Can you take a few more pics of that area zoomed out a bit; I want to look at your ramps more.

2. Does the diverter work correctly in coil test, and in gameplay (take glass off, hit the 3 Hat Trick targets so Hat Trick is lit, and then roll the ball into the lane; when the ball hits that rollunder switch, the diverter should swing all the way left and the ball should land in the VUK)

RussM

There's a full writeup of this including pics done by some weirdo on these forums.

RussMyers

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rb-rocky-and-bullwinkle-mod-to-reduce-power-at-the-lion-backbox-coil

OK, so manually with the glass off, when you hit the 3 hat trick targets and Hat Trick is lit,

Then shoot the ball into that lane, as the ball passes under the switch, the hat trick diverter should pop open to the left,

the ball should then land in the VUK cup and be shot into the yellow wireform.

Does this happen most of the time?

I can see how a weak shot could end up missing the VUK and then get stuck behind the diverter but I have never seen that happen on my own R&B after 6 or 7 years of owning one.

If a ball gets stuck there, the automatic ball search function should open the diverter to let it out - does that happen?

RussM