Westland, MI
Just joined the club. Picked one up last week. Was doa so working on cpu
(Topic ID: 146487)
Linked Games
Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends, The
Data East, 1993
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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-rb-cpu-parts-list
if any of you R&B brothers have any incite, please help. I want to get the components so I can get bring it back alive. Really looking forward to this game. Are the ramps smoked grey or should they be crystal clear? I am in the process of cleaning it up. Playfield is very dirty but is cleaning up perfect. Almost looks new. have no wear that I can find yet. really excited about this one.
1 week later
1 week later
hey fellas
Getting my machine put back together and noticing that my flashers on the play field don't work. They work in the back box but not on the playfield. Need some help on the schematics or ideas on where to start. I see that they go into J9 on the ppb board and then to the resistors, then diodes. All that stuff checks out.
1 month later
Ok guys. So I'm back to getting mine 100%. So changed coils in back box and rhino coil locks on. Checked the whole route and everything is good. Diodes and resistor on ppb test good, new tip and resistor on cpu. No bridging in solder work. I'm stumped? 
Quoted from amkoepfer:the rhino coil also has 4 flashers associated with it as well, just a thought, i could be way off base here though.
I wonder if this does have something to do with it. It wasn't locking on when my flashers weren't working. The relay on the ppb board had cold solder joints and now my flashers work and now my rhino locks on.
Quoted from RussMyers:So the Rhino coil locks on but the flashers driven by the same circuit do NOT lock on? Even in Flasher Test?
RM
I will have to check but I don't think they lock on. I will unplug those coils and power on. Will report back later.
1 month later
2 weeks later
Quoted from rwarren28806:Just starting to tear down and investigate. I have 2 wires that appear to be cut or removed right next to the flipper control board. When I look at the schematics, they don't appear to go there. Violet with a grey stripe and a solid brown. Also, there is an alligator clip jumper wire from the red "M" target (green/yellow wire) to the left sling shot white wire.
Any ideas?
should post some pics. all r&b guys are willing to help. I got a tons of help from this group.
Quoted from RDReynolds:Left the club this weekend. Great game, it will be missed. Had a friend who badly wanted it so decided it could leave since it was going to a good home...
Wait a min. you started this group and now you are leaving?????
These boards seem very easy to work on and easy to figure out. Once the guys in the group pointed me in the right direction it got easier.
here is everything I have had to do so far.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-rb-cpu-parts-list
Quoted from rwarren28806:So it appears that the abandoned legs can be easily removed and a new transistor soldered in. It looks from the top side to have plenty of work room. Is this something a non-expert can do? I replaced GI headers before so I have some sort of experience.
this is a very simple repair. you can remove the legs and install a new one no problem. if you have a good sucker to clean out the holes.
Quoted from amkoepfer:If you are ordering the tip36c, i would order a few, and maybe tip122, just to have on hand in case you run into any other problems. When i did mine i swapped them all just so i k ew they were good
exactly what he said. Order from great plains so you know they are quality. I ordered some off ebay and they are junk. keep blowing.
2 weeks later
Alright gang. Need some big help here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rb-coils-keep-locking#post-3490477
1 week later
Quoted from Insane:maybe someone can clarify, are these switches just the Cherry DA3 switches. New version PN DB3C-B1AA? of so i can just order from mouser, and move my arms over.
I will take a look at mine later today. I will see if they are cherry brand but they are cherry style. basically they are a micro switch and can wear out. once I figure out what they are I can see at my local store and how much they will be. I could always mail them to you. I may not be able to get to the store till Saturday though if you're not in a rush.
Insane
Check out this one. May not be the right part but these guys are on your side of the state. you might want to call them and see if they have it.
ebay.com link: Pinball Microswitch Assembly Data East Sega Stern Bally Williams
1 week later
1 month later
3 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from Insane:Here are the pics of mine. I don't see a pn for the metal part. it is flat on the bottom, and threaded so that the screw threads into it. The big discs are thin "clear" plastic washers. The screw according to the manual is 6-32 x 3/8. Hope this helps
Awesome. Thank you sir. I may have to come up with something. I don't think I have that part that goes in the sleeve.
1 week later
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rb-ppb-relay-help
Please help fellas. I'm stumped
Quoted from wiredworm:Finally got round to taking some photos of the bits that are fitted to the end of Bullwinkles arm on mine. Pretty much the same as Insanes but I don't have the plastic piece; it's just the two plastic washers held onto the metal 'top hat' with a screw. The plastic washers are just positioned so that when the arm is down one sits in front of the very front plastic and the other sits behind the rear one.
I have the screw and plastic sleeve with washers but no long metal post. Any ideas on a substitute?
3 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from Inkochnito:Just to let you Rocky & Bullwinkle lovers know, I've created a nice Tech Chart for this game.
My info came from the manual and might have some errors in it.
If you find any, please let me know.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/tech_charts.htm
Also on my website are the schematics per board.
I've created the PPB layout for the 520-5021-05 board.
This version is not in any manual.
Scroll down to the green section for the schematics.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Data_East.htm
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
thank you for putting this together. 
11 months later
so have a question for you r&b club guys. I am still messing with mine and think I have determined that it is the power supply. What does the relay on the power supply control? I noticed mine is a little smoky on the plastic by the contacts.
Issue I’m having is the 50v coils fire when the flashers on that line should flash. I also have some of the 30v coils not working. I plan on doing a power supply rebuild and go from there. I think the power supply is my issue. Cpu was tested on a D/E tester and everything checks out
Quoted from Robotworkshop:May have been a single short in the wrong place that may have taken out some drivers. Definitely look for shorts. It has happened on other machines.
After ensuring that things look good it can help to make a list of the specific coils that aren't working to see if there is something in common that would prevent them from working. I'd look for any prior repair work or hacks. Any if the bad coils replaced? Was a diode installed backwards or left off where there should be one? Was this game ever working for you or a new pickup with an unknown past?
the cpu was worked on by a local guy that does good board work. everything checks out on the cpu. he doesn't have a tester for the ppb but I did use a multi meter on it and everything checks out on that. I will make a list of the coils and will also check under the playfield.
1 week later
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Does anyone know of a source for the plastic lift edge for the bottom of the backglass.
Check Marco's
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from HamDandsome:Should my ball save light be on when i launch? I have only experienced like a half dozen ball saves on this game and i play all the time...the “ball save” or “shoot again” light never comes on unless of course i get an extra ball...is this an error or is the ball save on this game whacky? Thanks for any help
i think this is normal. I have got a few ball saves since I have had mine fixed.
Quoted from jchybro:There is a short ball timer but if your average ball time is high, it diables it. When it drains quickly it does an animation and says “stay tuned, there’s more” and launches another ball. Cant remember what the avg ball time that causes it to disable and I dont know if shoot again is lit during ball save time.
played mine a few times over the weekend. purposely drained to see it save the ball. shoot again does not light up and I think ball save is if you don't trigger any switch.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:On the backbox animation the Rhino and Rockybwork perfect. The lion goes up the drops a bit before lowering. I've read others have issues with the lion. What's up with that particular one? I saw a note about changing the coil voltage for that one. What are the known issues and fixes for that?
you can do a daisy chain from one of the other coils and it won't be as powerful but will also not break your lion. Need to do this to mine. Mine hits up so hard that it gets stuck behind Bullwinkle's hand.
Quoted from RussMyers:There's a full writeup of this including pics done by some weirdo on these forums.
RussMyers
man that weirdo came up with a great idea..... 
2 weeks later
Quoted from Insane:Ok, had a problem. when playing this weekend, the left flipper would sometimes not flip, flip with no power, flip up and immediately go back down, even with the button still pressed, or work correctly. I am thinking the end of stroke switch, and maybe the button switch. Both flippers were completely rebuilt within the last 2 years. With very little use since, but enough to know that they were working. Any thoughts? I didn't get a chance to look into yet, just wanted to get some places to look...I am going to cross post to the DE club also.
Don't forget to look over the flipper board
2 weeks later
Quoted from Insane:I will. I haven't messed with it yet. Been in a funk lately and not wanting to really mess with or play any of the games.
I hear ya. that is why it took for ever for me to get mine going. had other priorities to take care of before games.
1 year later
1 month later
2 months later
Quoted from radial_head:Just jumping in here! Club member over here! Currently going through and stripping my game down. Planning on doing new cabinet decals, and a few of the boards need new components. Power Supply board needs to be rebuilt and the sound board needs new capacitors.[quoted image][quoted image]
Show the playfield. Looks like you have a nice project so far. And welcome to the club. you'll have fun with it
Quoted from Puckstop:Question on switch #29. Part of the super VUK. Should the switch be closed when the up kicker plunger is down? I assume so but need to ask. Looks like the previous hack wrapped a tie wrap around the shaft to make the switch. Thanks
you still need pics?
2 weeks later
Quoted from Phesson:I am having sound problems with my R&B. When I press the start button Bullwinkle says “It’s showtime”. I have no sound during game play. In Test I occasionally get correct music and speech but most often it’s all Bullwinkle saying “It’s showtime” for each test. I have replaced the ribbon cable from the sound card to the MPU with no change. Anyone have a similar problem or have an idea as to where to start diagnostics?
Any help is appreciated.
have you checked the sound chip sockets and tried to reseat the chips?
Quoted from Phesson:That was the fix!!
Thanks for the good advice.
awesome. just make sure the sockets are nice and tight.
1 week later
Quoted from JDub03:Anyone replaced the fire button housing and button on their R&B? I ordered one from Marco and can't figure out how the light assembly stays in the button? TIA.
on the original i think it is glued. the one from marco it just twist out
Quoted from JDub03:The entire housing/button kit. The kit from Marco doesn't seem to "stay in". It appears the original is glued, which is bizarre to me.
I just changed my original to the marcos a month ago. it was a pain but got it done. there is a nut on the back of the button that holds it in the housing. marcos does have a twist and lock in place. just solder it back on the same way. wires are not long so just be careful not to break it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from radial_head:Word to the wise: the “Narrow 3D Standup Target” Marco offers... The head is too big to fit through the slot on the playfield, and on top of that, if you DO go through the painstaking task of dropping the target in and then assembling the playfield fixture, the target wont fit and flex properly. Pretty bummed out.
Trying to decide if I should dremel the playfield or try to find NOS targets that ACTUALLY fit.
I have to call Marco anyway tomorrow to clear up a mistaken double shipment they sent me and will be bringing this up with them.
[quoted image]
That's a bummer. hopefully they do have the correct ones. please keep us updated. those targets get bashed on a lot and can see them breaking soon on mine.
Quoted from radial_head:Just got off the phone with Marco and was basically told to pound sand and pay the 20% restocking fee which blows. I may just keep them and see if I can't make them work. Hoping to not have to Dremel the playfield, but it's seemingly either that or use these other Standup targets that Pinball Life has... Not original, but they'd fit. https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-12-x-1-small-rectangle-target-switch.html
that sucks. is there a way to get those to work without using a Dremel?
3 weeks later
I loaded mine up with comet 2smd natural white and the flashers. it brightened up the game a lot. I don't see a need for more but if you do this and it works, I might consider it. with all the ramps and wire forms, you don't see much back there anyways.
so fellow club members. have some questions about game play. every Thursday has been thirsty Thursday and I go have some beers and play some pins. so far my best game on this damn machine is 249 mill. is there a wizard mode? what is your best game on this? I just want to put my name on the dang board 
Quoted from JDub03:The Jackpot is very lucrative during multiball. Hit the Jackpot and then get the super Jackpot, left ramp builds the values and right cashes em in. I usually let one ball go quick since mine is setup insanely fast. But I can usually get in the 400M area with this strategy.
mine is very fast too. I may be going after the jackpot to early. you have to get it in the hat trick to light the jackpot in multi ball right?
1 week later
I have that issue with the lion. I know the lion is a higher voltage coil so that could be my issue. I need to do the mod. I would start with checking the sleeve and making sure the mech is moving smoothly through it but it could also be the track.
1 month later
before replacing the bridge, test it. not a super tech but if the bridge blew again, there has to be a spike blowing it. so a bridge switches the voltage ac/dc. would need to look at schematics but may need to look at transformer to make sure you are getting correct voltages.
Quoted from Steve_in_Escalon:Metal. Look for a ‘fender washer’.
I may actually have some of those. Wonder why they used a metal one for the rear?
3 weeks later
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/adv-of-rocky-bullwinkle-nos-playfield-450.460640/
Looks like this is still for sale if someone is looking for a nos playfield. some insert crackling but if yours is blown out, this is perfect for you.
2 weeks later
Quoted from JDub03:Can you see this link?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/386005805690699
I reached out to him, good guy. He printed and sent me one within a couple days.
what did he charge?
1 week later
Quoted from Bravebluerx:Very cool.
I’m glad you ended up with the bullwinkle from Ivan considering your history of using it years back, it was meant for you full circle machine. I was bummed I missed out on it by a $100 Difference, but now super stoked it went to the right guy. Meant to be.
Pinball karma will visit you soon
2 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Could you post a link on where to buy this? Also do you know if there are any video's of it running in the game? I've seen some of the Color DMD and wonder how this compares.
I too would like to see a video of the animations since it is half the price. I am always down to save a buck.
Quoted from radial_head:More hat trick issues:
Over the past year of regular play, the hat trick mechanism has officially broken every single plastic in the animation. Has anybody else struggled with this? Specifically, the area where the shaft and e-ring meet the plastic has broken on every plastic which makes the armature rise behind the plastic and making the plastics stuck up.
Any thoughts?
usually the lion breaks and need to do the coil mod so it has less power. also could be that your foam for it to land is either gone or no good anymore.
Quoted from trueno92:Anyone in canada have a spare set of waybac ramp entrance protectors?
Or anyone made their own?
I got mine from cliffy. Glad I have them. They are getting banged up on the new ramp and are doing their job. Recommend getting the set
so was talking to a buddy about pin2dmd. he was telling me about some of the shortcomings about them. he was coloring some games for it and found it all depends on the size of the ram that the game has. when we were talking about the pin2dmd for this game and the animations not being complete, he said it could be that the ram is filled and not able to do anymore coloring. anyone know about this?
Quoted from Bravebluerx:The color Author didnt mention this as the reason for the coloring not being complete, but his lack of being able to a activate certain scenes deep in the game. Other virtual pin users provided guidance on how to enable those scenes he may have missed in the virtual pin forums I linked to previously. For $210 the coloring is fine for all the scenes i have played through in the game, a few scene shade mismatches you probably wont notice while playing, but this was someone doing it for free so we can cut him some slack or learn how to fix the shortcomings. Havent heard of ram limitations on this though with the color file on a micro sd card.
Trust me I’m good with it for being done for free. Was just wanting to bring up a conversation about it with the information I was provided by someone who has done some coloring for it. He said he went to color X-men and when he did magnito multi ball it took up the rest of the ram and was not able to finish. Just checking to see if this is case with this one. Just checking to see if there is any knowledge of it. Not starting any argument
Quoted from radial_head:Seems like the amount of research you've done on this PIN2DMD thing would negate the money you're saving on the product if you paid yourself an hourly local minimum wage. Just sayin.
Well I showed my buddy who has done coloring for pin2dmd and these were his thoughts. It’s missing a lot of color. Only has a 4 color max palate which could be due to ram size.
If anyone has good knowledge about coloring pin2dmd, I would love to hear some things about it. Can the coloring be improved?
Quoted from MadMaxDad:Re: the ‘local min wage’ part.
I’ve been lucky enough to color several titles for ColorDMD. Coloring isn’t something you should do for the money - I don’t track the hours because it’s literally ‘months of hours’ to complete a title. No exaggeration. For me, I enjoy the challenge of finding every DMD screen and figuring out ways to color the random/interactive ones.
I’m obviously biased - but I think if you compare screens/videos of ColorDMD to anything else - it’s worth the extra money to have a title that is complete and colored consistently/accurately. Again - my opinion.
I have to agree. My buddy spent a very long time coloring Metallica for pin2dmd to make it the way he wanted it. Even though he spent a ton of time on it, he sold it and is using color dmd. Since you have experience doing coloring, how many colors are available with color dmd?
Quoted from radial_head:Sure. I don’t want to downplay just how much fun this whole thing is and the work that it takes to perfect it. If we were all in this to make money for our labor, well, we’d all be making fools of ourselves. I guess I just kind of took issue with Bax1 “trying to save a few bucks” and then dragging the incompletion if the other product through the mud a little. Just seemed a little like “well if its that important than just buy the one that isn’t DIY and pay the person who has already done the work.
Not bent out of shape over any of this and definitely see the other side/perspective of this. All’s good and sorry for causin’ a stir.
It sounds like I am the one causing the stir and was not the intent. I wanted to find out the difference between the two. If I could save a couple hundred, sure I’m in for that. My only concern with pin2dmd is will it look right. I was also hoping someone that had the color dmd would post a good video like we have of the pin2dmd. The only video out there is just a teaser and doesn’t show what things look like in game play.
Was hoping to have an open discussion on it but I guess I came off wrong. My apologies to all that I offended.
1 week later
Quoted from trueno92:Fixed up the nell log. Looks like the factory issue motor needs a touch of preload for the gears to operate in the correct rotation, else i was having trouble with it moving backwards. The game i have was not played much so the gear wheel and track look new. My gear wheel backed out from the axle teeth a mm, so i pressed it back in, tightend the allen head screw between the gear wheel and the pulley, then filled the gap in with JB weld. Works perfectly now, the motor gets the log to the end of the track where it zips back to the start and then continues up to the buzz saw until the timer runs out.
My timer starts at 13 but pretty sure its an adjustment setting. Just nice to see the nell log get to the end consistently, and zip back to the starting point, which makes me believe there is some kind of clutch inside the motor, why the motor has brass gears and why the motor needs a bit of spring preload to kick it off in the right direction.
Didn’t know Nell was supposed to zip back to the start. I may need to tear mine apart and take a look.
May have figured out why Nell isn’t springing back. It’s for sure is the spring not getting tight enough but when I tightened it up a little bit it would work then not work. So thinking it’s the gear being stripped on the inside and not gripping on the knurling of the shaft. So have some jb weld on it and see what will happen this afternoon.
Was also curious what roms you guys are running. I have 1.3 but see there are 3.2 roms. Anyone running that software?
Quoted from trueno92:I also have 1.3
I also had the work and no work,
Make sure the allen key scrrw is tight on the drive shaft and the gear wheel pushed up closest to the motor side, and make sure the gear wheel isnt slipping.
Then its only up to the gears internal to the motor to keep it going.
The only thing i dont understand is why does the motor change direction and why is it designed that way
Right on. I had the Allen screw in tight and gear pressed all the way over. It would zip back but then as the spring started to tighten, it would fling back. That made me think it’s stripped on the inside. I put the jb weld on yesterday so should be fully cured this afternoon. Hoping this works or I’ll get the new system. Does seem like a cool feature that I’d like to work.
Quoted from rwarren28806:Took it apart and I didn't see any spring. Looked through this forum and post #696 shows a picture of spring between the motor and gear. Is that the spring that is supposed to be there? If so then I may have to look into getting one.
Yes. That spring is between the housing and the toothed gear. That spring kicks back Nell and needs to be there
2 weeks later
Quoted from trueno92:Did your friend make any progress?
He was coloring Metallica. He did complete it but said took him 3 months. He said he wouldn’t color this for me
Quoted from marshallkobe:Can anyone answer a question on Mylar? I have circles of Mylar and a sheet cut around the pop bumpers. Is that factory Mylar? Also I’m going to remove the Mylar because it has dirt around it. Do i reapply it after or before i wax it? Doesn’t make much sense to put Mylar on top of wax. Thanks again!
More than likely it’s factory. When you say dirt around it, just clean it. Is it lifting? If it’s not I’d clean, novus 2, and wax
Quoted from marshallkobe:Ok sounds good. I couldn’t get the dirt out from the edges so I’ll just replace it in the spots. Didn’t make sense to remove it then stick new Mylar on top of a waxed surface. Appreciate the info.
when I first got mine, it was filthy. the mylar by the jet bumpers have a dark line at the edge. doesn't bother me and just cleaned it the best I could. rest of the playfield looks mint!
1 week later
Quoted from trueno92:I pulled a t10 bulb holder from an old coin door, and put a super bright non ghosting no flicker from comet in there. Then i hot glued it to the underside of the apron.
I couldnt find a strip i liked and i didnt have any that didnt ghost...
Just tied into the gi?
I think the original black looks good. I don’t usually care for powder coated games. If I was I like the multi to match the targets. The game is supposed to be whimsical themed so that’s the closest you can get to that I guess
Quoted from trueno92:Sidebar: any of you guys dabble in bootloader hacking? Trying to open up dmdmk66 to colordmd firmware....
is this a new file? I am still debating on getting one
Quoted from fornacigiorgi:Thank you Trueno92, already did that, I will try more than just 1 time.
My question is: what is the normal behaviour in attract mode? Is there music / sound fx along with the light show?
Could you please post a video of the machine during that idle time? I can't found it on YouTube, seems everyone sets the machine on quiet mode.
Thank you,
Marco from Italy
I’ve got attract mode on and only sounds I get are when the stereo part comes on or when the Jurassic park ad comes on. Wish it did more
Quoted from trueno92:Prelim game play after all the relighting and dialing in the pf.
I missed you posting this video. so you gotta tell us what you did here. can't show me the candy and not give me a piece!
1 month later
3 weeks later
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from trueno92:Pin2dmd has a colorization for this btw!
Do you know if it’s been updated?
Quoted from scottacus:I received a message today from a Pinsider asking about the Nell Driver units that I've been making (see all the gory details here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/that-trick-never-works-rocky-bullwinkle-club/page/15#post-5230632).
That made me realize that I haven't posted about the new board design that I made a few months ago. It isn't that the old design was bad, it's just that I've made quite a few of these and I got tired of hand etching the boards. The new design is $90 with shipping extra (price went up because parts costs went up with COVID).
[quoted image]
Dang. I should’ve bought this awhile ago. I might need to get this now that my gear is slipping again
Quoted from trueno92:Once u get LAH up and running, the nell log won't bother you as much...
I like that feature though. Lol but yeah I need to get to work on lah
2 months later
Quoted from radial_head:What is everybody's Wabac record? This was a first record for me in one go (I believe this is 15 or 16 times in succession), but realized the other day that the Wabac saves progress.
[quoted image]
you know my skills aren't as good as yours on this game. I might have hit 4 in a row lol
3 months later
the switch should screw into that tab and the arm goes into the hole in the ramp. order some cliffy's for the game too. that ramp gets smashed. My cliffy's are so beat up from that ball smacking into them. if they weren't there, the ramp would be busted again.
1 month later
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1 month later
Quoted from kttully0428:Just brought home my Rocky and Bullwinkle machine! My first Data East machine. Found the volume adjuster. Any way to mute or no?
you can just turn the volume down all the way. congrats on a fun game!
1 week later
Quoted from rwarren28806:I decided to pull the board to inspect it. I didn't see anything burned or leaking. I checked the fuses. I had one clip that was loose and when I tried to close it down it broke (of course). I found one other fuse that didn't appear to be blown but was. Before I put it back in I will read through that pinwiki page and see if anything else pops up. Hopefully it will be OK as I'm not sure where to economically buy parts as GPE may be out of business.
Thanks for the help.
I think I bought the fuse clips at digikey. I bought a bunch a while ago and change them on any data east games I get. first thing to do.
11 months later
5 months later
Quoted from BrewersArcade:Cliffy seems to be out of stock of everything all the time. I’ll send him an email though and see. I just need the Wabak ramp. I’m planning on selling my machine so not really interesting in buying a new ramp
I could sell you my old one. it's better than what you have.
3 months later
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