(Topic ID: 146487)

"That trick never works!" - Rocky & Bullwinkle Club!

By RDReynolds

8 years ago


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There are 1,485 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 30.
#351 6 years ago

Plastics arrived today and are now being packed up ready to be shipped out tomorrow.

I'm extremely pleased with how these have turned out and hope all customers will be too. Here's some photos:

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#352 6 years ago

Woah, they look really great.

Sure gonna finish off my restoration to a great level with those.

#353 6 years ago

Grabbed a set! I

#354 6 years ago

Greetings from downunder. Just joined pinside with my R&B.

#355 6 years ago

Here's my R&B.

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#356 6 years ago
Quoted from OziMoose:

Here's my R&B.

Very nice, welcome to the club..

#357 6 years ago

Quick question? Has anyone come up with a sleeve of some sorts for the perspex lion,rocky,rhino where the metal pin attaches to the arm to prevent wear? My current Lion is worn. But I have a new replacement from Marco. Already done the voltage mod to stop the slamming.
Thanks in advance.

#358 6 years ago

Does anyone know where you can get the screws that hold the light PCB's in place?

I ordered some from Marcos that I hoped would be up to the job - they're 3/4" #8 hex screws - but unfortunately the screw body is too fat so they're no good.

Can't seem to find any other 3/4" screws on Marcos site that might be suitable. Anyone on here got any clues? I'm missing a few from my R&B and would really like to make sure they're put back in place.

#359 6 years ago

Another screw question, where can I get the long screws that hold the in lanes in place?

#360 6 years ago

I'd be surprised if Marcos don't do those; I picked mine up from a local UK supplier called Pinballmania. I think they're just long machine screws but if noone else chimes in then i'll dig mine out later and measure them up and see what I can find.

#361 6 years ago

Got my set of R&B plastics for RetroRefurbs and have to say they are absolutely superb. Top marks from me!!

Only taken the film off one of them so far; will leave the others on until they're ready for fitting.

Not sure how many (if any) sets he has left but if anyone is considering buying then I can recommend them.

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#362 6 years ago

i have a screw question too. what is inside that plastic sleeve on bullwinkles had that hits the backbox plastics to make the had go up? I have the sleeve but don't know how to connect it.

#363 6 years ago

Here are the pics of mine. I don't see a pn for the metal part. it is flat on the bottom, and threaded so that the screw threads into it. The big discs are thin "clear" plastic washers. The screw according to the manual is 6-32 x 3/8. Hope this helps

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#364 6 years ago

Got my plastics in, as you can see much nicer than my old partial set. First thoughts are the text is pretty different in some cases. Was worried about the ink side of the plastics not having any protection during shipping, only a few wear marks.

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#365 6 years ago

It looks like the font is the same, just the lines for the letters aren't as thick. At least to me looking at the pics. Might be different in person.

#366 6 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

It looks like the font is the same, just the lines for the letters aren't as thick. At least to me looking at the pics. Might be different in person.

Its pretty different, same size, lot smaller font/shape.

#367 6 years ago

I just collected my R&B from storage as I need to sell it so I'm play-testing it.

The only remaining issue to fix is the playfield diverter that sends the ball to the hat trick VUK: this diverter never moves so the ball never goes to the hat trick. But in coil test it moves (possibly a bit of a double flip).

What triggers that diverter to move across in a game, is it the three hat trick targets, should it move when the red light comes on? Any hints for me please?

#368 6 years ago
Quoted from cooldan:

I just collected my R&B from storage as I need to sell it so I'm play-testing it.
The only remaining issue to fix is the playfield diverter that sends the ball to the hat trick VUK: this diverter never moves so the ball never goes to the hat trick. But in coil test it moves (possibly a bit of a double flip).
What triggers that diverter to move across in a game, is it the three hat trick targets, should it move when the red light comes on? Any hints for me please?

After the hat trick lights are lit, the diverter moves when the wire gate switch is triggered at the entrance to the left orbit. Check your micro switch, and make sure the gate is triggering it

#369 6 years ago

Hi Dan

The diverter is only active when hat trick mode is in play. I think that happens when the animal targets have all been hit three times.

After that I think the diverter is trigger by a rollover switch on the left loop.

Let me.know if you need more info and I can sort some photos out.

cheers

pete

#370 6 years ago
Quoted from cooldan:

I just collected my R&B from storage as I need to sell it so I'm play-testing it.
The only remaining issue to fix is the playfield diverter that sends the ball to the hat trick VUK: this diverter never moves so the ball never goes to the hat trick. But in coil test it moves (possibly a bit of a double flip).
What triggers that diverter to move across in a game, is it the three hat trick targets, should it move when the red light comes on? Any hints for me please?

I had this problem with mine. One thing I found out is that there are 2 different configuration for the left gate. One has the micro switch on top. This is what is in the documentation. Mine was manufactured in England and the switch is underneath. Very odd configuration set up. My diverter doesn't open unless the hat trick light is on and the gate switch is triggered.

Good luck......

#371 6 years ago

Yup, my mistake. It's not a roll-over switch. The left loop gate at the bottom triggers it on mine.

You can see the gate in the left of this picture.

2013-06-09 20.01.54 (resized).jpg2013-06-09 20.01.54 (resized).jpg

I have a suspicion that the switch on this gate fastens to the loom via a connector so it could be as simple as the connector being pulled free.

#372 6 years ago

Thanks guys, that fixed it - the switch on the left orbit needed a tweak - so my hat trick diverter now works fine

Have listed it for sale but would ideally like it all working perfectly so maybe you can help with two other issues:

Two coils aren't firing in game or in coil tests but both move freely and have voltage at the coil lugs. I have real trouble reading the schematics in this older manual, can someone identify for me please which are the two relevant board connector/wires and the relevant transistors? Then I can try to trigger them by shorting the transistor and I'll know the wiring is ok, and can test it just replace those pesky transistors.

1) Coil 6L the Rocky insert coil that lifts up Rocky in the backbox. Brown- Violet/Blue

2) Coil 15 the reset coil for the Nell drop targets. Red - Brown/Violet

Many thanks in advance. If you can also tell me what page of the manual it's to be found, that'll help me in future too. Dan

#373 6 years ago
Quoted from cooldan:

Thanks guys, that fixed it - the switch on the left orbit needed a tweak - so my hat trick diverter now works fine
Have listed it for sale but would ideally like it all working perfectly so maybe you can help with two other issues:
Two coils aren't firing in game or in coil tests but both move freely and have voltage at the coil lugs. I have real trouble reading the schematics in this older manual, can someone identify for me please which are the two relevant board connector/wires and the relevant transistors? Then I can try to trigger them by shorting the transistor and I'll know the wiring is ok, and can test it just replace those pesky transistors.
1) Coil 6L the Rocky insert coil that lifts up Rocky in the backbox. Brown- Violet/Blue
2) Coil 15 the reset coil for the Nell drop targets. Red - Brown/Violet
Many thanks in advance. If you can also tell me what page of the manual it's to be found, that'll help me in future too. Dan

Rocky coil, see page 29. Also same for the Nell reset. It looks like transistor Q41 for Rocky, it also goes through PPB Board. Nell looks to be Q24. Looks like Rocky goes through CN11. Nell CN12 wire 8 See page 45 CPU Backbox wiring diagram.

#374 6 years ago

ok thank you that's very helpful.

so if i replace those two transistors, where in the manual does it tell me what type they are? it's the same shape as a TIP102 or a TIP107.
plus the predrive transistors, the little round black things with a flat edge, what kind are they, and where in the manual does it say? they look like my little bag of 2N5401 i have here, but also look like my bag of 2N3906. wouldn't want to put the wrong kind in and undo all my good work.

edit: i found what i needed in the end on page 53 top right. it's a TIP122 so i can use my TIP102, and it's a 2N4401 so google tells me i can use a 2N3904. i don't think my 2N3906 will fix it, i think it has to be a 3904. Nell drop target reset bank is now working, important as the game is not playable without it. the Rocky insert is still playing up, but the new owner can deal with that as it doesn't affect gameplay. i'm done with it, it's for sale now. fun game, i enjoyed it (my second R&B).

#375 6 years ago

Has anyone on here got a Nell Assembly that they'd be able to post photos of please?

I'm just putting mine back together and have noted that before stripping I had a fairly long hex post (approx 2-3" long) at the rear right corner. However, looking at the schematic in the manual there's no mention of such a post and i'm curious if it's meant to be there or not.

If i'm reading the diagram correctly the only thing holding the Nell Assembly to the base is the two brackets, both of which are fixed to the rear of the assembly. There's a hole in the top plate where the Nell Log slides but i'm not sure if something is meant to be fixed there or not.

#376 6 years ago
Quoted from wiredworm:

Has anyone on here got a Nell Assembly that they'd be able to post photos of please?
I'm just putting mine back together and have noted that before stripping I had a fairly long hex post (approx 2-3" long) at the rear right corner. However, looking at the schematic in the manual there's no mention of such a post and i'm curious if it's meant to be there or not.
If i'm reading the diagram correctly the only thing holding the Nell Assembly to the base is the two brackets, both of which are fixed to the rear of the assembly. There's a hole in the top plate where the Nell Log slides but i'm not sure if something is meant to be fixed there or not.

If someone could take a pic, I could use the info as well. Right now I have no idea how the assembly is properly held up

#377 6 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Here are the pics of mine. I don't see a pn for the metal part. it is flat on the bottom, and threaded so that the screw threads into it. The big discs are thin "clear" plastic washers. The screw according to the manual is 6-32 x 3/8. Hope this helps

Awesome. Thank you sir. I may have to come up with something. I don't think I have that part that goes in the sleeve.

#378 6 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Awesome. Thank you sir. I may have to come up with something. I don't think I have that part that goes in the sleeve.

I find it really hard to imagine that they used a custom piece for that. I looked through all posts on Marco's website and don't see anything like it. I wonder if what I have is not factory? Perhaps replaced when it was in Europe... I saw a couple of other people have used a long screw and nut to accomplish the same thing.

#379 6 years ago

I can check mine tomorrow morning so we can compare if that helps. Will try to strip if off and post some photos.

#380 6 years ago

I just took mine off and got a few that show how it's mounted

It's held on in three places - front right on that purple plastic, back right at the foot of a long metal foot, and on top at the front left where it attaches to a hex post right next to the log.

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#381 6 years ago

Hello.

I need some help if possible on a couple of problems, maybe switches. When the balls go down under the play field (from the center) and are supposed to eject out of the far left side of the play field hole and don't no more, is it the middle troth switch (under the play field) or when the ball rolls all the way left and sits on a switch and eject coil. It use to work fine but now it does a ball search and finally ejects the ball out. Not sure which switch or coil is supposed to tell the computer that a ball has gone under the play field. It looks like the middle troth switch with the diode I ordered is different than the original Data East switch. I am not a volt meter type of guy so just looking for some advice of what to check.

Thanks in advance for any help

#382 6 years ago

You're talking about where it fires the ball out of Aesops Hole after going through the subway.

Have you tried using the switch test and coil test menus in the diagnostics?

That should allow you to test all of the switches and it will prove if it's the subway switch which is showing faulty.

#383 6 years ago

Finally got round to taking some photos of the bits that are fitted to the end of Bullwinkles arm on mine. Pretty much the same as Insanes but I don't have the plastic piece; it's just the two plastic washers held onto the metal 'top hat' with a screw. The plastic washers are just positioned so that when the arm is down one sits in front of the very front plastic and the other sits behind the rear one.

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#384 6 years ago
Quoted from wiredworm:

Finally got round to taking some photos of the bits that are fitted to the end of Bullwinkles arm on mine. Pretty much the same as Insanes but I don't have the plastic piece; it's just the two plastic washers held onto the metal 'top hat' with a screw. The plastic washers are just positioned so that when the arm is down one sits in front of the very front plastic and the other sits behind the rear one.

The plastic piece is 254-5000-06 according to the manual. it just slides over the metal "post" for lack of a better word.

#386 6 years ago

Don't know, but now I'm curious. Wonder if it was some early design that got removed in main production...
Based on the art, it looks like it goes near the rt pop bumper. Maybe it went over the area to the left of the pop.

1 week later
#388 6 years ago
Quoted from wiredworm:

Finally got round to taking some photos of the bits that are fitted to the end of Bullwinkles arm on mine. Pretty much the same as Insanes but I don't have the plastic piece; it's just the two plastic washers held onto the metal 'top hat' with a screw. The plastic washers are just positioned so that when the arm is down one sits in front of the very front plastic and the other sits behind the rear one.

I have the screw and plastic sleeve with washers but no long metal post. Any ideas on a substitute?

#389 6 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

I have the screw and plastic sleeve with washers but no long metal post. Any ideas on a substitute?

Looks like this is the common fix
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bullwinkle-hat-trick-arm-assembly#post-2653760

#390 6 years ago

awesome!!! Thanks Insane. just installed my new wabac ramp and cliffies this weekend. now I just need to get the operation issue fixed and I'll finally have this thing right lol.

#391 6 years ago

Has anyone had any experience of replacing the B-O-M-B targets with the replacements sold by Marcos?

These ones: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5930-02

The plastic itself is slightly wider than the originals which makes them a bit of a pain to fit because you have to strip down the stack so you can drop the plastic part in from the top. I managed that, got everything soldered back up and then when I came to refit the metal brackets I found that there was zero movement of the plastic part when struck. It's almost as if the alignment of the bracket is slightly out but maybe i'm just missing something obvious.

Anyone got any clues on this one?

#392 6 years ago

I just had a dig through the parts i've got and I think i've spotted the issue.

The metal supports provided with the targets from Marcos aren't actually suitable for this use; the ones I should be using have a narrower end to them so it looks like i'll need to get some foam refitted on those and reuse them.

#393 6 years ago
Quoted from wiredworm:

Has anyone had any experience of replacing the B-O-M-B targets with the replacements sold by Marcos?
These ones: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5930-02
The plastic itself is slightly wider than the originals which makes them a bit of a pain to fit because you have to strip down the stack so you can drop the plastic part in from the top. I managed that, got everything soldered back up and then when I came to refit the metal brackets I found that there was zero movement of the plastic part when struck. It's almost as if the alignment of the bracket is slightly out but maybe i'm just missing something obvious.
Anyone got any clues on this one?

I used them. They are definitely not as narrow. I cut the back of the "L" shape off the metal part of the bracket. I was able to cram them in from the bottom then. Wish there were some replacements that were the original size.

-Mike

#394 6 years ago
Quoted from wiredworm:

Has anyone had any experience of replacing the B-O-M-B targets with the replacements sold by Marcos?
These ones: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5930-02
The plastic itself is slightly wider than the originals which makes them a bit of a pain to fit because you have to strip down the stack so you can drop the plastic part in from the top. I managed that, got everything soldered back up and then when I came to refit the metal brackets I found that there was zero movement of the plastic part when struck. It's almost as if the alignment of the bracket is slightly out but maybe i'm just missing something obvious.
Anyone got any clues on this one?

I had the same issue. I reamed out the playfield a bit to make them fit.

#395 6 years ago

The bracket's that come with the replacement targets is definitely a different shape, which is something of a shame because part of the reason for swapping mine out was because the metal support post is slightly bent on a couple of them. It doesn't stop them working but I suspect it could be the reason I get air balls occasionally when I hit those targets.

Below you can see the provided metal post with the new targets on the left and the original metal post on the right. It's too tight a fit to use the new ones so i'll fit some target foam on the old ones and reuse them.

I just wanted to make others aware in case they intended to do similar with their targets.

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1 week later
#396 6 years ago

I'm doing a shotgun playfield cleanup (since I have to swap in a new WABAC ramp anyway, thanks Freeplay40!) and am in the process of removing all of the crappy-looking old mylar. Any advice on which mylar pieces I should replace if it will stay in home use? The two lane ball-drop spots are obvious, but would people recommend replacing the Aesop hole mylar and/or any of the other bits?

1 week later
#397 6 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

I'm doing a shotgun playfield cleanup (since I have to swap in a new WABAC ramp anyway, thanks Freeplay40!) and am in the process of removing all of the crappy-looking old mylar. Any advice on which mylar pieces I should replace if it will stay in home use? The two lane ball-drop spots are obvious, but would people recommend replacing the Aesop hole mylar and/or any of the other bits?

Anyone?

#398 6 years ago

I still have mine to clean up and restore so I'm interested as well. Obviously they thought mylar was useful near the bumpers, but mine was routed so no idea what it came with. I bought "Cliffy's" protectors to go into it when I'm done. No advice, but i'm interested to hear from someone with experience keeping this pin nice.

#399 6 years ago

Just joined the club a couple weeks ago. Loved this game years ago and still like it now. My kids love it. mines in good shape and looks nice. Can't wait to trick it out some more.

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#400 6 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

I'm doing a shotgun playfield cleanup (since I have to swap in a new WABAC ramp anyway, thanks Freeplay40!) and am in the process of removing all of the crappy-looking old mylar. Any advice on which mylar pieces I should replace if it will stay in home use? The two lane ball-drop spots are obvious, but would people recommend replacing the Aesop hole mylar and/or any of the other bits?

No real knowledge, but I would think around the Aesop. I also got a set of Cliffy's for mine. Maybe in front of the slings also.

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