Thought there were plenty on eBay?

Alright gang. Need some big help here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rb-coils-keep-locking#post-3490477

eBay seller is very "proud" of his. $49 at Marco, $79 on eBay.

I have old ROM's in my game. CPU says 1.1. 1.3 seems to be the most current. Anyone know what was updated in the 1.3 version? Is it worth updating?

Well, when I bought mine on eBay, it was the only place I could find one. Sometimes you have to pay a premium if you aren't willing to wait for a restocking of supplies

cross posted this to Data East club page..

Having a small issue on my R&B. My right ramp exit switch has quit working. i checked the wires to the CPU, both have continuity. I looked at the switch matrix, unfortunately, there is only one other switch in the column. It is working, the switches in the row seem to be working. I went through the switch tests, had 2 other switches that weren't registering. I activated them several times, they started working intermittently, then consistently they started working???? Seems odd to me.
There is a diode on the switch terminals. Well technically it looks like its hooked to 1 leg, then to a different point then the other wire is hooked to.
Separate question while running through the switch tests, the 3 hat trick targets, the outside ones, when i activate them and hold the target, they register once. When i push and hold the center one, it keeps registering. Any ideas what to check, or what is wrong there. probably why i get the wrong...wrong...wrong hat. thanks in advance.
i'm guessing maybe the switch is bad on the ramp. I can here it clicking when i move the arm. so i know its "actuating". Also anyone point to a place to buy the switch. I looked at Marco and Pinball life, neither had the correct pn. Maybe have to buy without the arm, or buy with straight arm and bend?

the ramp switch is a cherry switch right? do you ever get over to westland? there is an electronics store that may have one. can you post a pic?

Unfortunately wrong side of the state. i am basically on lake michigan. Here are the 3 switches i am having issues with, 2 that seem to work after actuating them a few times, and the 1 that doesn't work at all. Pic 1 & 4 are the one that isn't working at all DE pn 500-5633-00, 2 and 3 are the intermittent ones. DE pn's 180-5090-00, and again 500-5633-00. I'm not sure if they are "cherry" or not. First real experience with them.

IMG-20161226-01756 (resized).jpg

IMG-20161226-01754 (resized).jpg

IMG-20161226-01755 (resized).jpg

IMG-20161226-01753 (resized).jpg

Hmm... i never thought about it but i get wrong wrong wrong hat sometimes too. Could your diode be bad on the switch that isnt working? Or possibly stuck closed? (Or open)

not sure, is something to check though.

maybe someone can clarify, are these switches just the Cherry DA3 switches. New version PN DB3C-B1AA? of so i can just order from mouser, and move my arms over.

I think everybody gets the wrong, wrong, wrong hat.... I always thought it was just in the code

There are some things that can be done to lessen it. This is from earlier in the thread from FirebrandX
"Padding and also re-gapping the contacts. Over time (especially on these old machines) the gaps become nearly closed, and the impact of the ball vibrates the gap in a rapid open-close-open-close manner. This causes the "wrong-wrong-wrong hat" audio issue. Basically just proper upkeep and service will prevent it from becoming an annoying problem. "

I will take a look at mine later today. I will see if they are cherry brand but they are cherry style. basically they are a micro switch and can wear out. once I figure out what they are I can see at my local store and how much they will be. I could always mail them to you. I may not be able to get to the store till Saturday though if you're not in a rush.

I thought it was code also as I don't have the most current.

i would be curious to see if anyone else has the same results that i have, where in switch test mode, if you push and hold the outside ones only say it once, and the middle says it repeatedly.

Mines at my sisters or else I'd check

Sometimes when the ball goes up the right ramp on mine and doesnt get all the way up and comes back down, the ball gets stuck on the gate. Is the gate supposed to lock or is mine not working properly?

My machine is in pretty good condition. Though the left flipper can not make the right ramp. It never makes it all the way up. I have to backhand it up the ramp to make it and this is a very difficult shot . Has anyone put stronger solenoids in this to make the flippers work better?

I would say not working correctly, mine will go through either direction.

I rebuilt my flippers, and have no real issues now. My flippers were in desperate need of being rebuilt.

The double "wrong" occurs when you hit 2 targets at the same time.

Insane

Check out this one. May not be the right part but these guys are on your side of the state. you might want to call them and see if they have it.

ebay.com link: Pinball Microswitch Assembly Data East Sega Stern Bally Williams

yeah, i'll check them out, thanks for the tip.

ok, got my switches in, now to install. Upon removing the ramps to get the switches off, i noticed a couple of things that i don't think are correct, can you guys look and let me know.
Appreciate any and all help.

IMG-20170105-01758 (resized).jpg
Pic 1 overhead view of the same plate as pic 2. Screw obviously isnt factory, and it looks like there was a post behind it, again factory? what about the small hole slightly diagonal up and right from place where it looks like post is missing.
IMG-20170105-01759 (resized).jpg
Pic 2 the metal plate behind the blue post. Is it factory, or someone's attempt at protecting the ramp.
IMG-20170105-01760 (resized).jpg
Pic 3 the small piece of spring steel on top of the post
IMG-20170105-01757 (resized).jpg
Pic 4 the screw up against the metal plate right next to yellow post.

1. The screw is a replacement. Nothing to worry about.

The electrical wires under the gate wire should not be there. I can't see where they are going but mine doesn't have anything installed in front of it that requires wiring. But he white/violet-green/black combination indicates the right return lane gate. Definitely should not be on the left side.

I'd ignore the small hole. Might have been a mod that was removed. What I did notice is that typically a micro switch is attached to the bar extended from the wire bracket. Sometimes the hat trick switch is removed to disable its functionality. You can see this better in the second picture.

2. More of an add because the ramp is broken.

3. No idea why that is there.

4. That is to hold the metal plate in place. The plate, I believe, is non-standard as what I have is attached to the screw on top of the post in front of it.

Just starting to refurbish mine. It is an import from England so some of the switches and wiring does not match the manual. It will make my job interesting.

Does this album help you at all?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/37999418@N04/albums/72157629437568588

RussMyers

As an FYI, some machines are different than the pictures. Mine is an England build and, for example, the hat trick micro switch is under the playfield and the WABAC ramp is at the foot of the ramp and not 2 inches behind it. I'm not sure how many other things might be different. I'm just getting around to refurbishing it so there may be more.

Russ, I looked at your pics, and think they answered some of the questions. I couldn't tell on the metal piece in pics 1 & 2 as the pics you showed had Cliffy's installed. I have the switch pulled out in the picture as I am replacing it. So disregard the wires pulled the way they are. So was there a metal plate there originally? on the last pic, the screw, I think the plate is correct, it seems to be mounted on the inside ( I haven't pulled the plastic yet to double check). On the screw holes (pic 1), Russ, it looked like yours had the same thing, at least the small one, can you verify?
Rwarren, appreciate your information as well. Will post more tonight.

That curved metal plate behind the blue target and post - definitely non-factory. Added by someone to help with the ramp damage.

Have a look at these:

http://www.passionforpinball.com/RnB.htm

The before pics show the original setup

RM

Perfect, thanks for the link. I already have a couple of my cliffy's installed, just not all of them yet.

Ok, new questions. On the attached pic, the screw was holding the metal piece in place, as the bracket at that end that holds it, is broken away from the main part. UUUGGGHHHHH. Also on the plastic that surrounds and covers the bottom pop, there are 3 screws, 2 go into the pop body, and then there is a third. Does it attach to anything? Mine just has a long hex post nut on the bottom, not attached to anything, just sits between the 2 posts that are there. The more i get into this the more things i find wrong. And the metal piece in the top picture before was definitely a route add, custom cut and filed piece.

bracket (resized).JPG

pic 2 (resized).JPG

Not on mine. It's in between the ramps so nothing functional.

This is what mine looks like.
Alan

pinside sm 5 (resized).jpg

ok, so nothing there originally. thanks

Anyone know a pn for this ball guide, or where i can get one?

http://www.passionforpinball.com/RnB.htm

not the cliffy, i have those i mean the curved one behind the yellow target. The one highlighted in the picture above i posted with the red arrows.

ebay.com link: itm

This one insane?

I don't think any of those 3 are the one I need. I will have to double check tonight. I had seen those before.

Before I break something, I need to change the bulb in the Boris shooter. I removed the microswitch. I unscrewed the large plastic nut from behind it but I don't see how to get to the bulb. It appears as if the plastic bracket that holds the switch might unscrew but when I try to do that, it doesn't budge. I don't see any tabs or locking mechanisms. And forcing it, "That trick never works". This can't be that hard but, again, before I break something that I can't replace, I thought I'd ask.

i'll have to double check tonight when I get home, but I think it just twists 90 degrees and pulls out. I will verify tonight and let you know.

on mine, you don't have to remove the microswitch, just grab the switch, and turn it counterclockwise and the whole switch and bulb assembly comes out. only have to turn it about 20 degrees or so.

Thanks. Did you have to force it at all or did it turn off easily? I'm sort of thinking that it may not have been put back in properly and it is stuck.

It takes a small amount of force, you are turning it over a notch (for lack of a better way to describe) But with the switch installed, should really be no issue. I do mean small amount of force, not anything massive.

Ok, joined the club yesterday, a few questions, anyone have a shooter housing? What paint is best to match cabinet either rattle can or brush?

My saw does not turn much, do you think I need to replace the black rubber band? Or the pulley it rides on?

Should the spin wheel be white or is it an ivory/off white?

If it turns, leave it alone. It does not turn at 900rpm...