I don't think so because the coil circuit and flasher circuit are not connected directly together - the relay board bank-switches between them, but I may be wrong and it is possible.

The flashers don't have diodes because they are DC and are not controlled in a matrix the way the controlled lamps are (like inserts).

RM

Thanks for the info. Im going to check and see if that could be the problem and ill report back. If not id say the relay or transistor

The way i was thinking was if the coil is somehow grounded or shorted, the relay would switch to try to turn them off, in turn locking the coil on. Like i said though, im just guessing. Im going to start there and work my way backwards

I will have to check but I don't think they lock on. I will unplug those coils and power on. Will report back later.

A bad transistor on the mpu board can cause a coil to lock so you should check those with your meter to see if the associated transistor is shorted. It could also be the relay on the ppb board or the diode associated with it. It could also be a bad diode on the coil itself. I am no expert but I have similar problems with my msf.

Changed the diode on the coil already, that wasnt it, im hoping its something dumb im missing, hoping it doesnt go back to the board. Just odd i changed those 2 flashers associated with it, one was missing completely, then it does that.

Ok mine was the tip36c on the ppb board. It all works now, i also reflowed the solder on the relay, now the super vuk isnt registering a ball, but i think i need to adjust the switch, but thats a project for the morning

So had to unplug the back box coils to run lamp test. The 4 flashers that are tied to the rhino are locked on. Hmmm just doesn't make sense

Hmmm. I wouldnt think a relay would lock both of them on

How do you know the transistor isn't shorted to ground? Because that's the exact behavior.

Also, is there an additional pre-driver transistor in that circuit?

If there is, if either the main drive or pre-driver transistors are shorted, that circuit will lock-on.

RM

I have tested and replaced the transistor. I will check pre driver and report back

OK, let us know.

Something is shorting that particular circuit to ground. You just have to find what is doing it.

When you replaced that transistor, you did clip the legs on the back? They aren't touching the metal backplane?

RM

Re led'd the backbox with brighter bulbs. Turned out great!

20161001_105126 (resized).jpg

20161001_105123 (resized).jpg

Changed pre driver and still the same.

Legs are all clipped and no solder bridging. Hmmmm

Tried changing the pia and still locking. I need to check the traces from pia to transistor to make sure nothing is broke

I'm in

Just bought mine n Sunday. I'm IN!!!

Welcome to the club Schicketmaster and rwarren

Just found this thread, my R&B is my only solid state machine, and love it just for the theme. But plays great as well. Mine is a european machine, so if price is right would like to change the coin door if someone has a US door they would part with. Also, looking for a Boris button and housing. Know I can order the button and housing, but other pin priorities keep stealing the $40 or so they want. So hoping to find one for less. Finally, someone mylar coated the playfield and it has a few bubbles and wrinkles which don't affect play much. Really nervous about trying to remove it. Any thoughts?

Just starting to tear down and investigate. I have 2 wires that appear to be cut or removed right next to the flipper control board. When I look at the schematics, they don't appear to go there. Violet with a grey stripe and a solid brown. Also, there is an alligator clip jumper wire from the red "M" target (green/yellow wire) to the left sling shot white wire.

Any ideas?

Does anyone happen to have an LED conversion bulb list for R&B? Thinking of jumping in on the Comet black Friday sale but don't have time to put a list together.

should post some pics. all r&b guys are willing to help. I got a tons of help from this group.

Wait a min. you started this group and now you are leaving?????

Will do when I start tearing down. I was going through the service menu last night and walking through some of the tests and I stumbled upon what the brown/violet-grey wires go to, the knocker. Apparently someone has removed it. Not sure if it is financially worth replacing. I found some other stuff that doesn't work. Going to track those down tonight. Hoping for broken wires or blown fuses but I always fear board issues.

I had problems with the power supply board on mine and that's common but easily replaced and not very expensive. Another common issue with data east is the ppb board but also easily replaced.

These boards seem very easy to work on and easy to figure out. Once the guys in the group pointed me in the right direction it got easier.
here is everything I have had to do so far.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-rb-cpu-parts-list

So I couldn't wait to tear it down. I had to track the wiring. I found one broken wire and fixed that. I tracked the last 2 wires back to the PPB board. Violet/yellow to J8, pin 4. Yellow/violet to J7, pin 9. I looked the board over and the TIP36C at Q3 is missing. The one at Q4 has been replaced. Is Q3 supposed to be there?

IMG_0075 (resized).JPG

Yes, not sure what coil it is associated but there is a transistor there. You may have a coil chart stapled somewhere inside your pin but I don't have one in mine and there is not a chart in the manual as far as I know.

I have the downloaded version of the manual. It is pretty tough to follow. I'm 99% sure it is associated with the VUK in the upper left hand corner as those are where the wires go and in test, it doesn't fire.

Yes the q3 transistor is for the playfield vuk, associated with the hat trick

the tip36c control the special coils. there is a page that shows the vuk and other coils on one page.

So it appears that the abandoned legs can be easily removed and a new transistor soldered in. It looks from the top side to have plenty of work room. Is this something a non-expert can do? I replaced GI headers before so I have some sort of experience.

this is a very simple repair. you can remove the legs and install a new one no problem. if you have a good sucker to clean out the holes.

Exactally what Bax1 said. He helped me through the repair of mine. Easy fix, should solve that issue

I tried a sucker on the headers. Not much luck. Went to the copper braid. More successful. Well, off to buy parts. I guess I'll get back to you guys in a week or so. Thanks for the help!!!

If you are ordering the tip36c, i would order a few, and maybe tip122, just to have on hand in case you run into any other problems. When i did mine i swapped them all just so i k ew they were good

exactly what he said. Order from great plains so you know they are quality. I ordered some off ebay and they are junk. keep blowing.

I'm in. Guess I should have posted this here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adventures-of-rocky-and-bullwinkle-left-ramp

From most pictures I can find the left ramp is not over the yellow bar.

Come to find out my R&B was from/built in England. So the manuals on line aren't completely accurate. Flashers are different for sure. Not sure what else yet. Oh and the board behind the DMD is a Sega board. This is gonna be interesting.

i know that there are some changes made during production, my backbox takes 44/47 bulbs, but a number take 555. Good luck..

I am looking to shop mine out. I was looking at the larger inserts in the PF, and they almost seem "frosted", or like paint over-spray texture on the backside, is this correct, or have they been messed with? Also any tips or things i really need to watch when shopping it?

Mine seem to be covered over also so I think that is correct. Maybe someone else can ring in here. I'll get pictures when I open it back up again.

One of the issues I am having is the entrance of the way back ramp. I've seen pictures with 2 gates. I only have 1. But it doesn't really look right. The gate with the light is at the entrance. I've seen them about 2 inches up the ramp. But mine is broke on the right side. So I'm really not sure what is right. I looked up the ramp numbers but no one shows any. So one ramp it is. I just need to figure out how to attach it for best use.

I got my TIP36C's, soldered them in and PRESTO!!!! Hat trick now works. I believe they clipped it off in order to speed up game play. I really like it when I try to fix something and it works. So all of the obvious stuff is repaired. On to tear down, clean and inspection. Pops are kind of slow/lazy so I may have to do something with them. I'm sure flippers will need some sort of tweaking also. Don't they always.

glad it worked!

if you look up HEP pinball, they did one, i have found their pictures to be very helpful when trying to figure something out.

Now I'm confused. Every site I checked stated R&B did not need non-ghosting LED's. I got 1/2 way through and noticed lots of ghosting. Is there something that I missed?

Does anyone have a topper for sale or know where I could find one? I have been through all of the normal channels.