Westland, MI
Titan
Very cool how you made the wand. Looks like it should belong.
Steve
Thank you for the pics. I may have some arcade board stand offs that might work. Do you know the length of that sleeve?
(Topic ID: 146487)
Linked Games
Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends, The
Data East, 1993
Topic Gallery
That was an old pic and I can't get to the backbox the way my pins are placed. I can tell you it's just wide enough that the washers fit over the three backbox plastics.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-rb-backbox-arm-bushing-nos?tu=arcadedl
Check this link for a possible source for the arm bushing.
Data East part number 530-5226-00
Marco shows it out of stock.
I have some R&B parts for sale if anyone needs anything.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rocky-bullwinkle-parts-for-sale
RussM
hey fellas
Getting my machine put back together and noticing that my flashers on the play field don't work. They work in the back box but not on the playfield. Need some help on the schematics or ideas on where to start. I see that they go into J9 on the ppb board and then to the resistors, then diodes. All that stuff checks out.
Quoted from Bax1:hey fellas
Getting my machine put back together and noticing that my flashers on the play field don't work. They work in the back box but not on the playfield. Need some help on the schematics or ideas on where to start. I see that they go into J9 on the ppb board and then to the resistors, then diodes. All that stuff checks out.
Are you testing with incandescent or LED bulbs?
RM
Mine did the same thing after moving it. try re-seating connector CN3 on the lower right corner of the power supply. The one with the red wires.
Quoted from Bax1:Incandescent. Would love to change over to leds if they work with the game
They do fine, but since they are diodes, you have to try them in the sockets both ways to make sure they light up (wedge-style #906)
RM
I am just about to start the reproduction of the Wabac ramp and I posed some questions in my Freeplay40 Ramps post along with a photo of the ramp I will use for reproduction. Would appreciate some feedback before I get started with this one...
Thanks...Mark
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps/page/12#post-3309768
1 week later
Quoted from Don44:Every 5 games or so during a ball, the background music shuts off on my R&B and I just get the game sounds when you hit something or a switch is used.
Have you replaced the ribbon cable to the sound board? Could be cold solder joints on the header pins for that cable as well.
Quoted from Don44:Every 5 games or so during a ball, the background music shuts off on my R&B and I just get the game sounds when you hit something or a switch is used. Is this a glitch in the software?
Mine does the same thing. Please let me know if you find the cure.
2 weeks later
Quoted from SteveF-Detroit:Mine does the same thing. Please let me know if you find the cure.
I unplugged everything on the cpu because I needed the board to check something on another pin and since I put the board back in, I have not had the problem any longer. Perhaps you just need to disconnect and reconnect the ribbon cables.
I just finished shopping mine. I put leds on the playfield, i still have to do the inserts, but man, this is a hard game to shop! I kept having a ball get stuck under the wabac ramp, theres no support post right there, so i ended up putting a bracket between the plastic and the ramp, just wedged in for now. That seems to stop the stuck ball
Quoted from amkoepfer:What color leds for the daisy inserts? Clear and amber just dont look right
I used warm white. Looked good!
Ok guys. So I'm back to getting mine 100%. So changed coils in back box and rhino coil locks on. Checked the whole route and everything is good. Diodes and resistor on ppb test good, new tip and resistor on cpu. No bridging in solder work. I'm stumped? 
Quoted from Bax1:So changed coils in back box and rhino coil locks on.
Is it actually locking on or is the plastic getting jammed in the track? I had my lion getting jammed due to a worn pivot point where it attached to the arm. Just a thought.
Quoted from Bax1:I wish that was the case. It locks up immediately upon power up.
i changed my coil to go the lower power route, and had the same issue, but i had done something wrong. But at this moment, i can't exactly remember what. I would triple check your work..
Quoted from Bax1:Ok guys. So I'm back to getting mine 100%. So changed coils in back box and rhino coil locks on. Checked the whole route and everything is good. Diodes and resistor on ppb test good, new tip and resistor on cpu. No bridging in solder work. I'm stumped?
Can you take some pictures of the coils and wiring the way it is now?
Easier to diagnose a wiring issue that way.
RussMyers
Quoted from amkoepfer:Finally got rnb back up and running. New rottendog power board fixed it all!
Glad it's working for you, but I read nothing but bad reviews and nightmare stories about rottendog boards. I went with XPin and it has been flawless ever since.
Quoted from Bax1:It's brand new. Tested good and also swapped out just for safety measure.
If the Rhino coil is locking on, that's the one on the far right.
The white wire is the power wire and the Purple w/Black stripe is the ground for that coil.
First thing, de-solder one end of the jumper wire from that coil that goes back to the Lion coil (the low-power mod) to eliminate it from the circuit and try again.
Does it still lock on?
RM
Ok, im having an issue with my super vuk locking on on power up. I had just changed some of the flashers when it did this, so before i dig into changing the transistor, could it be a shorted bulb socket or bad diode on the socket causing the coil to lock on? I didnt notice the flashers locking on, since as soon as i saw the coil lock i powered it off, but there are 4 flashers associated with the super vuk. Ill test the transistor later, but was just spitballing. Collin, the rhino coil also has 4 flashers associated with it as well, just a thought, i could be way off base here though.
Quoted from amkoepfer:the rhino coil also has 4 flashers associated with it as well, just a thought, i could be way off base here though.
I wonder if this does have something to do with it. It wasn't locking on when my flashers weren't working. The relay on the ppb board had cold solder joints and now my flashers work and now my rhino locks on.
I was just messing with the flashers last night, but for the life of me i cant remember if they have diodes or not. Maybe a bad diode on the lamp socket? Wire shorting to ground? Really dont know if this could cause it though. Do you have flashers locked on, or 4 not working? Im going to check mine tonight and see if i do
Quoted from Bax1:I wonder if this does have something to do with it. It wasn't locking on when my flashers weren't working. The relay on the ppb board had cold solder joints and now my flashers work and now my rhino locks on.
Yes, on DE sys3 (just like Williams sys11 it copied) the low-power solenoids and flashers share drive transistors and the switch between them is the relay board.
So the Rhino coil locks on but the flashers driven by the same circuit do NOT lock on? Even in Flasher Test?
RM
Quoted from Bax1:So I just took the power off of the lion and the rhino still locks on.
OK, you have eliminated that mod as a problem.
RM
Quoted from RussMyers:Yes, on DE sys3 (just like Williams sys11 it copied) the low-power solenoids and flashers share drive transistors and the switch between them is the relay board.
So the Rhino coil locks on but the flashers driven by the same circuit do NOT lock on? Even in Flasher Test?
RM
So could a bad bulb socket (or diode if the flashers have diodes) cause a coil to lock on? I would think that if the flashers locked on they would burn up and be not as noticeable. Im going to test mine when i get home after disconnecting the super vuk coil.
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