Quoted from bowtech:Hopefully last question of the night. Anyone know where to get these guides for the pictures?
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anyone got any leads on this part?
Quoted from bowtech:Hopefully last question of the night. Anyone know where to get these guides for the pictures?
[quoted image]
anyone got any leads on this part?
Quoted from bowtech:anyone got any leads on this part?
Made of unobtainium. 3d print files exist. At least that's how I got new ones. I have the file's if you need them.
I am looking
Quoted from bowtech:Hopefully last question of the night. Anyone know where to get these guides for the pictures?
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I sell a 3D printed replacement set that I designed for my machine. Each side is a single assembly instead of 3 separate pieces. It has worked well in my machine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1295-gotfrogs/06691-rocky-and-bullwinkle-pinball-hat-trick-deep-channel-guides
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Quoted from bakerhillpins:Made of unobtainium. 3d print files exist. At least that's how I got new ones. I have the file's if you need them.
Can you share the files please? Thanks
Quoted from kurlykiwi:Can you share the files please? Thanks
I tried attaching them and Pinside wouldn't allow the attachments. So I just bailed. Send me a PM if you'd like them.
Any chance someone on here could pop the cover on the nell mech and Let me have a look how it’s suppose to go together. Have Nell (log and teeth under it). The gear assembly that attaches to the motor and the saw blade with the pulley (loose but it’s there).
Newb warning - Kind of late to the party, but until 2 weeks ago I only owned EM games... Bought a pretty decent game, just needs a few here's and there's. One thing is the lever on the right ramp entrance switch is gone. I've been reading, looking at manual, searching online, but just haven't found it. According to the manual, "Right Ramp Enter" is #49, part number 500-5382-00. This looks like it might be it, but N/A and part number seems wrong: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5064-01
Picture is from another post here, not my machine, but this is the switch I need.
Could somebody clue me in as to what part to order and where? Please and thanks!
Quoted from sevenchord:Newb warning - Kind of late to the party, but until 2 weeks ago I only owned EM games... Bought a pretty decent game, just needs a few here's and there's. One thing is the lever on the right ramp entrance switch is gone. I've been reading, looking at manual, searching online, but just haven't found it. According to the manual, "Right Ramp Enter" is #49, part number 500-5382-00. This looks like it might be it, but N/A and part number seems wrong: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5064-01
Picture is from another post here, not my machine, but this is the switch I need.
Could somebody clue me in as to what part to order and where? Please and thanks![quoted image]
Try this pn. 180-5090-00. I saw something that said the 500- number is for the whole assembly. Someone else may chime in to correct me if this isn't the correct switch.
Quoted from Insane:Try this pn. 180-5090-00. I saw something that said the 500- number is for the whole assembly. Someone else may chime in to correct me if this isn't the correct switch.
That looks good - TYVM. I spent quite a while looking at cherry switches and levers last night trying to level up my knowledge. This is a whole 'nother world coming from EM's...
I might have a chance to pick on of these up next week and was wondering if there is anything specific I should look for or test before I make an offer?
I know about Nell's motor & the Hat Trick issues but not sure how to test?
Thanks!
Quoted from Grimstead:I know about Nell's motor & the Hat Trick issues but not sure how to test?
If the machine boots up you can test those 2 mechs in the game diagnostics. Find a copy of the manual (IPDB.org) and print out the section on how to enter and execute the diags. Then run them when you are checking out the machine.
Also check the condition of the plastic U channels that support the backbox hat trick plastics. If they are broken you will need to print or have someone print replacements for you. Note that the replacement hat trick plastics for the backbox are thicker than the OEM ones so 3D prints need to be relatively decent quality.
GOTFROGS in the market place shop sells printed ones (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1295-gotfrogs/06691-rocky-and-bullwinkle-pinball-hat-trick-deep-channel-guides). I have not purchased these so I can’t comment on quality.
Next issue on my RaB, the lower diverter for the left orbit never fires, because the gate at the left entrance is missing. The left orbit bottom switch is installed next to the left ramp enter switch. That might be because the front of the left ramp has some damage? I was wondering if anyone could post or send me a couple pictures of how it's supposed be set up...
I might have to spring for a new ramp, but I was thinking about designing/3d printing a new part for the entryway to the left ramp.
Quoted from pinballlarry1:How I found mine when disassembled last year. Put back just like this, resoldered the white wire, and mine works fine.
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Awesome, thanks very much! I guess I'll need to find or make that gate bracket.
Quoted from pinballlarry1:How I found mine when disassembled last year. Put back just like this, resoldered the white wire, and mine works fine.
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pinballlarry1
What is the left side of that gate actually attached to? Just the plastic? Or is there some sort of post under the plastic?
Hi all, I have looked through this thread and not seen any references to this issue but maybe missed it. I have now purchased two sets of reproduction top hat trick characters. One set from Marco and one from a ThePinWitch, I know the PinWitch set is made by Pedretti. Both sets where made with much thicker plastic than the factory ones and now will not fit in the factory black plastic channel guides. You can force them into the guides but then they are stuck so tightly by the sides of the guides that they cant move. Have other people had this issue? I actually had one broken guide and ordered a replacement form Marco and they do not fit in the replacement channel either. Below is a picture of the thickness difference. Has anyone solved this problem before?
Quoted from radix:Hi all, I have looked through this thread and not seen any references to this issue but maybe missed it. I have now purchased two sets of reproduction top hat trick characters. One set from Marco and one from a ThePinWitch, I know the PinWitch set is made by Pedretti. Both sets where made with much thicker plastic than the factory ones and now will not fit in the factory black plastic channel guides. You can force them into the guides but then they are stuck so tightly by the sides of the guides that they cant move. Have other people had this issue? I actually had one broken guide and ordered a replacement form Marco and they do not fit in the replacement channel either. Below is a picture of the thickness difference. Has anyone solved this problem before?[quoted image]
I mentioned it previously in this thread and I recall reading it elsewhere. I don't recall it being prominently discussed though. I printed out new guides (2 were missing on the game I shopped out) and have the files if you need them. Apparently (a few posts up) a member here makes a set for like $40 (don't quote me on that). What I recall is they upped the thickness because the thinner stuff was prone to breakage.
Quoted from bakerhillpins:I mentioned it previously in this thread and I recall reading it elsewhere. I don't recall it being prominently discussed though. I printed out new guides (2 were missing on the game I shopped out) and have the files if you need them. Apparently (a few posts up) a member here makes a set for like $40 (don't quote me on that). What I recall is they upped the thickness because the thinner stuff was prone to breakage.
Thanks for the response. According to my $9 Harbor Freight caliper the factory Lion is 1.5mm or like 1/16 thick. The reproduction ones are 2mm or about 5/64ths. Does your design take into consideration the 2mm size? If so it would be amazing if you would share the files with me. Its been while since I printed anything but this would be a great excuse to do so again. Thank you bakerhillpins
Quoted from radix:Thanks for the response. According to my $9 Harbor Freight caliper the factory Lion is 1.5mm or like 1/16 thick. The reproduction ones are 2mm or about 5/64ths. Does your design take into consideration the 2mm size? If so it would be amazing if you would share the files with me. Its been while since I printed anything but this would be a great excuse to do so again. Thank you bakerhillpins
Yes, the files do take into account the thicker plastic reproductions. I wish I could just upload them here but alas.. PM me with your email address.
Total shot in the dark, but if you purchased a Rocky and Bullwinkle from Todd Tuckey at TNT amusements in Southampton PA within the last 15 years (more likely between 2007-2011) please message me
I’m attempting the impossible in trying to track down a game my wife’s family sold back then
Anyone have any idea where I could source a cabinet decal for coin door end only? To make it even tougher, I need it in black.
Quoted from bowtech:Anyone know what size screw's hold this switch on? Mine is held with paper clip
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I replaced mine with https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=237-5872-00 because the originals were corroded and started stripping. The ended up being a little longer, but that didn’t matter.
Just started the restor on my R & B. The flippers are not working but when pushed trigger the kickback! The game is dirty and have replaced a few coils already. The flipper switches seem fine and there is contact flipper mecs seem fine and none of the fuses are blown. The last owner did replace the lcd screen for a colour one, thought I would get opinions before digging deep. Thanks in Advance!
Can someone tell me the exact backbox width? I have an incredibly narrow doorway that only fits Sterns right now if the head is still attached
Quoted from mbl1116:Can someone tell me the exact backbox width? I have an incredibly narrow doorway that only fits Sterns right now if the head is still attached
27 5/8”
Quoted from mbl1116:Can someone tell me the exact backbox width? I have an incredibly narrow doorway that only fits Sterns right now if the head is still attached
So you found your old game?
Quoted from freddy:So you found your old game?
Unfortunately no, trail kinda went dead. Still keeping an eye out. Just wanted to make sure it would even fit
Quoted from mbl1116:Unfortunately no, trail kinda went dead. Still keeping an eye out. Just wanted to make sure it would even fit
They all fit! One way or another !
I feel like I've asked this before but I'll ask it again: I can't get my left orbit diverter to act fast enough and I have yet to figure out either a cause or a solution.
When I nail the left orbit during multi ball, more times than not the shot rejects from the gate not opening quickly enough.
I've tried cleaning the bracket that holds the left orbit gate. That lasted a couple hundred games. I've tried adjusting the switch. That lasted a half dozen games. I've replaced the coil sleeve, cleaned up the plunger, and adjusted the diverter properly, none of that seems to make any difference.
What am I overlooking here??
Just reinstalled all the ramps after replacing the WABAC, now the ball is getting stuck trying to enter the blue return ramp. If I push the ramp assembly toward the left the ball will drop into the ramp. As far as I can tell I've got everything reinstalled correctly. Anyone else run into this issue?
Quoted from freddy:Just bend the blue wire form so ball passes
Yea, was considering that, but it seems weird that it's off after putting the ramps back in. Making me think I've got something put together wrong, that's all. Ramp bending it is!
Quoted from Flipstream:Just reinstalled all the ramps after replacing the WABAC, now the ball is getting stuck trying to enter the blue return ramp. If I push the ramp assembly toward the left the ball will drop into the ramp. As far as I can tell I've got everything reinstalled correctly. Anyone else run into this issue?
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It appears that the blue habitrail needs to move to the right, away from the plastic ramp. That will enlarge the opening of the transition between the two. A small adjustment should make a big difference.
Quoted from Steve_in_Escalon:It appears that the blue habitrail needs to move to the right, away from the plastic ramp. That will enlarge the opening of the transition between the two. A small adjustment should make a big difference.
Yep, that's exactly what I did. I bent the upper mounting arm a bit to push the ramp opening away/out from the plastic ramp exit and it's a smooth drop into the ramp now.
So weird the new WABAC ramp required tweaking the blue rail. Still some gremlins to track down, there's two dead bulb sockets in the wheel, and the bulb above the right ramp isn't lighting up. At least it's playable now!
Quoted from radial_head:When I nail the left orbit during multi ball, more times than not the shot rejects from the gate not opening quickly enough.
Solved this. I had the orbit diverter adjusted for the wrong end point. Fixed!
Can anyone tell me if Rocky and Bullwinkle has a ball save adjustment? I cant see anything in the game adjustment settings? The game will kick out another ball "Stay Tuned" if the ball drains straight away, but if if hits a couple of bumpers then drains it moves straight to ball 2. Finding it frustrating the number of centre and outlane drain without getting a chance to play the ball. Thanks
Quoted from kurlykiwi:Can anyone tell me if Rocky and Bullwinkle has a ball save adjustment? I cant see anything in the game adjustment settings? The game will kick out another ball "Stay Tuned" if the ball drains straight away, but if if hits a couple of bumpers then drains it moves straight to ball 2. Finding it frustrating the number of centre and outlane drain without getting a chance to play the ball. Thanks
R&B has a ball save of exactly 3 switch hits. It is possible to plunge, hit a rollover switch, two pop bumpers, then center drain. There is no way to adjust this. Play as if it has no ball save.
Quoted from radial_head:R&B has a ball save of exactly 3 switch hits. It is possible to plunge, hit a rollover switch, two pop bumpers, then center drain. There is no way to adjust this. Play as if it has no ball save.
On the other hand, if it does not hit any switch on its way down, let it drain and have another try at the skill shot.
Quoted from clempo:On the other hand, if it does not hit any switch on its way down, let it drain and have another try at the skill shot.
Right, but I think most people's argument is "why even have a ball save if your main plunge feeds into the pops" which I can get behind. An added ball save timer would be great, and I always thought a super skill shot would be fun. Hold your left flipper up, and make either ramp without hitting another switch after it exits the orbit for 25M or something.
If I knew assembly in any way shape or form I'd do a CHAD style revision of this game. Maybe I should just email him and ask.
Another approach is to replace the MPU with a P-ROC, FAST or cobrapin and rewrite the game in a higher level language.
Quoted from FirebrandX:Right Orbit shot will drain straight down the middle when it comes back on the left. This flaw was so bad that Data East eventually had to release a bulletin update instructing operators to drill a bracing post that bends the barrier inward on the left side.
FirebrandX is now inactive, anyone have a copy of the service bulletin they mentioned? Or maybe a photo if you've done something to fix the right orbit shot?
Quoted from schwism:get a lot of shots that go through the right orbit and down the left side SDTM.
schwism did you ever 'fix' yours?
I used to have a copy of that service bulletin and will search for it tomorrow. As I recall, the bulletin didn’t offer a detailed solution, it simply suggested adjusting the metal guide to redirect the ball from draining.
Quoted from Steve_in_Escalon:I used to have a copy of that service bulletin and will search for it tomorrow. As I recall, the bulletin didn’t offer a detailed solution, it simply suggested adjusting the metal guide to redirect the ball from draining.
Google is everyone's friend... er well anyway.
http://194.135.92.178/Support/Pinball/Serviceb/Stern/038C_SB.PDF
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