I was in the middle of a game and some of the power faded out and the game reset. Display was completely out so I turned it off. Now when I turn it on it tries to start but in slow motion. Lights brighten slowly and some of the coils fire. After 10 seconds or so as it doesn't completely boot I shut it down for fear of blowing a board or worse.

I reseated all of the connectors but nothing changes.

Any idea where and how to start testing?

I'd suspect a power supply issue somehow combined with something not working properly on the CPU (Maybe due to a sagging logic voltage combined with some sort of watchdog timing circuit on the cpu malfunctioning. Obviously showing my lack of knowledge with the system infrastructure.)

Can you open the back up and post a couple pics of the power supply, bridge rectifier, main board? Maybe do this first.
Check fuses while doing this.

Then, I would run open the coin door and run the the dmd, coil, switch, lamp, laser tests.

Check the service manual on page 21 if you are unsure how to do this:
https://archive.org/details/arcademanual_Rocky_And_Bullwinkle_OPS/page/n21/mode/2up

The display stays off until the CPU boots (always drives me nuts as it's like it's dead every time I turn it on LOL). If the display is out, Check the .5A 250v fuse at F7.

Just finishing up work on an R&B with kinda the same issue... If the power supply hasn't been rebuilt by now I can almost guarantee this is the issue:

A common reason for the lack of 5VDC is failure of the capacitor at C2. This 100uf/25V cap sometimes fails and begins to leak it's contents onto the circuit board. After a period of time, the caustic contents of the cap begin to eat into the board's copper traces. Eventually, the 5V generation path is severed.

See this page:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Power_Supply_Issues

I decided to pull the board to inspect it. I didn't see anything burned or leaking. I checked the fuses. I had one clip that was loose and when I tried to close it down it broke (of course). I found one other fuse that didn't appear to be blown but was. Before I put it back in I will read through that pinwiki page and see if anything else pops up. Hopefully it will be OK as I'm not sure where to economically buy parts as GPE may be out of business.

Thanks for the help.

FYI: for the C2 issue, you can't actually see the problem until you remove the cap from the board as the corrosion eats the trace under the cap.

There are plenty of places to get the parts. Marco Specialties, Mouser, Digikey, etc. I got the Data East Power supply cap kit from Marco and used that. I can tell you that if you don't have a lot of experience with board repair that replacing the larger filter caps on the power supply is a PITA. They are very difficult to get out without damaging the board.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CAPKITDE-02

I think the Xpin replacement power supply boards (other suppliers exist) are $150... might be the best option for you:

ebay.com link: itm
https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-de5047/

I think I bought the fuse clips at digikey. I bought a bunch a while ago and change them on any data east games I get. first thing to do.

I put new rubber on and now I'm seeing the 2 GI bulbs behind the SAVED targets getting broken by the pinball during play?

Manual shows a 3" ring and that's what I used. The game has the 2 metal hoops over the bulbs but if I press the pinball in there when the targets are down it's clear it will mash the bulbs. When I pulled the rubber I don't recall the bulbs being missing/broken. I've pulled them out for now but I'd like to understand what I've changed or missed.????

Did a bunch of searching but trying to get useful results when searching with bulb as a keyword is pointless. LOL

I have the 3-inch rubber installed and have yet to break a bulb behind those targets in 20+ years of ownership. It appears the ring keeps the ball from hitting the metal loop which provides additional clearance.

Yea, that's what I thought but both bulbs had the glass shattered. Was A PITA to get the bases out.

I overhauled this particular machine years ago (probably 12) and it probably saw heavy use for a few yrs and sat. When I went in to work on it last month the bulbs weren't broken when I changed out the rubber. I'd notice/remember that.

I left the service call and asked them to play it a bunch to iron it out. Went back for a few switches 2 wks later and both of the bulbs were broken. I replaced a bulb and pushed a pinball against it and if there was any deflection up on the rubber ring (say from up spin on the ball) it surely would break the bulb. So I'm kinda stumped.

Grrrr double post. Hate this forum software.

For sale: Rocky and bulwinkle board. Untested. $39 shipped

A92023CD-A942-4B1B-9272-396480E3BB21 (resized).jpeg

E636C8C1-E2DE-4799-932B-2B416AFC2CD0 (resized).jpeg

FF9437F5-CFDE-40C6-B632-0FBF02E0391F (resized).jpeg

PM sent

I needed to print up a new set of Hat Trick guides for some repair work I was doing. The OEM slides were too narrow and would bind with the new reproduction Hat Trick plastics (got the set from Marco). Turns out the reproduction plastics are 1/16 thicker than the OEMs that were in the game. I printed these up in carbon fiber and they fit/worked. I'll probably print them up using ABS later but for now here's the files. Thingverse only had the small one so I had some help drawing up the larger and then regenerated the smaller one with the same dimensions as my larger after fit testing.

Well it would appear that I can't upload .stl files here. WTF? Anyway, PM me if you'd like them.

From what I recall, you should be able to just mirror it and double up on length. Most of my family has moved out of the area but I still visit Claremont from time to time. Let me know if I can help.

Unfortunately my R&B is on location... and it's my top earner!

Thanks!

Yea, I haven't measured to confirm or deny that. All I know is that one has 2 studs, and one 3 so I'm not sure how you'd mirror that unless you sliced it too?? Anyway, drew it up in solidworks and exported to stl so it was pretty simple in the end.

If you're in the area and want to meet up drop a PM. I don't make it to ME much since my friend moved out of Portland.

Hello was looking through the forums but couldn't find a picture of anyone who completed the service bulletin 38C and added the post referenced. I’m having the orbit drain issue and wanted to add this but would like a reference pic on your angle of the rail. Thanks!

0E8C2D4C-CED8-4629-9652-350510D84E73 (resized).jpeg

My advice is learn how to nudge

Anyone know of a feature adjustment to disable more than 1 player? Glanced through the manual, but maybe I missed it.
Kids come up and start a 4 player game all too frequently and I default to power cycle the machine.

I don't think that's an option

I was just thinking the same thing with my kids always hitting the start button during game play so many time then it will trigger a ball search during game play starting the game over.

Your lineup is amazing.

Thanks! Collecting in the bay area is challenging with so many flippers to compete with.

Our buddy cary hardy is up in restoring on of these.

I'm sure he'll learn a lot by reading this thread.

Trying to swap out an old power board in my Rocky & Bullwinkle. I thought it would be plug and play, simple enough that a neophyte like myself could manage it. But it turns out that the CN 7 connectors are different. Do I need to change the connector that attaches to the board at CN 7 or use some kind of adapter? The first image below is the old board; the second is the new one. Appreciate any advice/suggestions. I love this game and have to get it running again!

782F7946-A858-4427-B561-F29A3A552FF6 (resized).jpeg

DE44DE65-0E6D-4859-805C-24B502021F32 (resized).jpeg

It looks like you are going to replace the original with a Rottendog from the picture. Later DataEast power supplies -02 have two extra pins on CN7 and so does the Rottendog. You just plug it in using pins 1, 2, and 3 like before and leave pins 4 and 5 open.

Thanks for that advice - will give it a try!

I have replaced the bulb and reseated the opto board connector. You can see the bottom hat doesn't light up. It's dimly lit, but doesn't interact with the gameplay like the top two hats.

What do you guys think could be the cause of this? Should I replace the opto board?

image000000-4 (resized).jpg

image000000-3 (resized).jpg

Reflow solder on board pins

I doubt the board is bad and I doubt you would be able to find a replacement (and I'd call it a lamp board not an opto).

First, try a bulb and socket from position to position to make sure it's not the bulb itself.

If that fixes it, retention the legs inside the bulb socket and retention the legs of the #555 style bulb. Then retention the legs that connect the socket to the board. Should fix it.

If swapping the bulb and socket from position to position doesn't fix it, check your connector on the board. Those wires do at some point come loose and you will have to re-crimp them with a tool and the original housing or just replace the original housing with a new crimp'n'stuff style molex connector.

There are a few other things it could be but I doubt it would be them.

Hi, I picked up what appears to be a HUO R&B (sure seems clean enough). Of course my Nell doesn't work. Everything is there, the motor just doesn't seem to turn. I've noticed someone with a solution they sell on Pinside (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rocky-and-bullwinkle-nell-motor-fix) as well as a solution on Pinball Life (https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=nell_driver). Just wondering if this is the same product or 2 different ones. If 2 different one is there a preference for one over the other?

Same product. I shopped one a couple months ago and it was missing the gears. I installed this replacement and all is well.

Id check if the motor is working. It probably is, but the belt is toast.

I finally swapped out the power supply board last night on my Rocky & Bullwinkle. Tried to hook up the non-conforming CN-7 plug but I think I must have messed it up. After connecting, I switched on the game. It started up normal, correct message on the DMD, correct audio message, but then things went sideways. The DMD went blank and I heard a humming noise that gradually got louder; half a second before I unplugged it from the wall I hear what sounds like a gunshot or firecracker sound from the backbox, then I see a small amount of smoke rising from the box.

I'm not an expert, but I'm guessing that's not good. If the game was a horse, would I now have to shoot it?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Open the backbox and see if anything looks toasty. It was probably a capacitor or a transistor blowing up. If you cannot work on the board, you will probably have to get your board repaired by a technician.

OK - thanks for the advice. Gonna get it into some more skilled hands I think, before I blow the house up.

I realize you're planning to move on to have someone else look it over but it might be worth posting a few pics of the power supply you used and CN7 plug. The pic of the Plug should show the end that plugs into the board. That way there's a chance we can help you so that at least you're aware of what mistake you made so you don't do it again.

Okay - if you scroll up to post 1276 you can see photos of the two CN-7 attachment points. On the original board it had just two pins sticking up with the center pin between them cut down or missing. When I plugged into the new power board I am guessing that maybe I misaligned the plug somehow onto the CN-7 attachment point. It was a bit of a guessing game, but it seemed like my only option was to attach to the pins at 1 and 3, so I am not really sure what went wrong.

DCC3E816-B6C1-423B-960F-AFDFD5F1A899 (resized).jpeg

Ah yes, I recall that post. With the key plug on the 3 pin connector there's really only one way to plug that in so that's not the issue, you installed that connector correctly. Do you see any physical damage on the PS board, or any board in the backbox? You mentioned a loud bang when it stopped working. This should be relatively easy to see what popped.

Pics of each board would help us if you're not sure.

Anyone tell me where the other ends of these are supposed to bolt to?

20220911_153108 (resized).jpg

20220911_153109 (resized).jpg

Under the speaker screws

Those are ground braids. The longer wire connects the backbox ground to the speaker screw in the lower corner. The little wire connects the speaker to the metal plate just next to it behind the screen.

Thank you. Next question, is that a support for this ramp in the back? Mine is pretty floppy

20220911_154539 (resized).jpg

The cross wire that appears to connect to nothing is there to avoid balls getting stuck between the ramp and the wireform. I don't see anything supporting the ramp in that region.

The yellow horizontal wire is there to support the ramp. It’s hard to see it clearly, but the the wire is actually under the ramp.

1B9CFD63-9D3A-4F36-B53D-85ECAF983E91 (resized).jpeg

My ramp is also incorrectly installed then. I should have figured it out earlier since it rests on one of the pop bumpers and a designer would never do that.

Hopefully last question of the night. Anyone know where to get these guides for the pictures?

Screenshot_20220911_194259 (resized).jpg

Bolted to the metal shield.

[ From Data East Star Wars Club ]
Here is where the long, right side, ground attaches too.. the top of the shorter gnd
to the corner of the pcb board.
pasted_image (resized).png pasted_image (resized).png
Here is where the left side attaches to the gnd sheild.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
Note: left side uses a 6-32 Keps nut.