(Topic ID: 146487)

"That trick never works!" - Rocky & Bullwinkle Club!

By RDReynolds

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by 2x286ps
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There are 1,513 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 31.
#1001 3 years ago

Man, this game in multiball is magical. Trying to get up to the jackpot scoop and hitting the ramp is great but the add a ball when in 2ball mode should be in more game of this era!!! Ugh!

#1002 3 years ago

The game is a blast for sure. It’s fast, challenging, and fun to play. For sure a great under rated game

#1003 3 years ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Separating the rack from the gear wheel is simple! Once the two are apart, just wind the gear wheel manually and lock it with the nell log rack in the starting position at the lowest along the slot.

Took it apart and I didn't see any spring. Looked through this forum and post #696 shows a picture of spring between the motor and gear. Is that the spring that is supposed to be there? If so then I may have to look into getting one.

#1004 3 years ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

Took it apart and I didn't see any spring. Looked through this forum and post #696 shows a picture of spring between the motor and gear. Is that the spring that is supposed to be there? If so then I may have to look into getting one.

Yes. That spring is between the housing and the toothed gear. That spring kicks back Nell and needs to be there

2 weeks later
#1005 3 years ago

Hello all.My screen goes blank during game play for a few seconds then returns.Sometimes a couple of seconds and sometimes 10 seconds or until the ball drains. I have just had all my boards serviced. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks Scott.

#1006 3 years ago
Quoted from scottnds:

Hello all.My screen goes blank during game play for a few seconds then returns.Sometimes a couple of seconds and sometimes 10 seconds or until the ball drains. I have just had all my boards serviced. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks Scott.

When you say serviced, did they reflow the solder header connections on the display pcb? Cold solder joints would cause intermittent display issues or a worn out ribbon cable or poor connection with display rom or socket. Try reseating the rom display chip in the socket and ribbon cable first

#1007 3 years ago
Quoted from Bravebluerx:

When you say serviced, did they reflow the solder header connections on the display pcb? Cold solder joints would cause intermittent display issues or a worn out ribbon cable or even a bad solder joint on the display board rom socket.

#1008 3 years ago
Quoted from scottnds:

Hello all.My screen goes blank during game play for a few seconds then returns.Sometimes a couple of seconds and sometimes 10 seconds or until the ball drains. I have just had all my boards serviced. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks Scott.

i had this problem. I haven't had it since i went to Colordmd, and changed my boards. Sorry i don't have better info to determine the problem.

#1009 3 years ago

Reseat the dmd power connector and ribbon cables

#1010 3 years ago

Just buy a color dmd
You can thank me later!

#1011 3 years ago

I bought the pin2dmd for around $210. I love it.

I have a 100% working original dmd I just pulled. If you decide you want it, $60 shipped.

#1012 3 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

I bought the pin2dmd for around $210. I love it.
I have a 100% working original dmd I just pulled. If you decide you want it, $60 shipped.

If he doesn't want it I could use it. I'm rebuilding my test jig and want to add a DMD display to it.

#1013 3 years ago

Hello! I bought a R&B before Christmas and loving it! It’s not perfect so I’m hoping someone can answer few questions: 1) the game doesn’t knock for replay, checked it through diagnostics and it doesn’t knock there either. Don’t see anything in the manual. Can anyone give advice on repairing the knocker? 2) I was able to turn down the background music but not the call outs does anyone know how to lower the volume? I appreciate any help.

#1014 3 years ago

The knocker may not work if its not there. Check inside the cab. It may be removed.

The volume, just turn the long metal shaft inside the coin door, on the right.

#1015 3 years ago

Thank you so much for the volume help. I’m a real dummy. Should have known. Knocker wise it must be missing. Nothing in the box but i don’t see it in the manual either. I ordered a data East knocker. I’ll have to check the wiring diagram to get it installed.

#1016 3 years ago
Quoted from Bravebluerx:

When you say serviced, did they reflow the solder header connections on the display pcb? Cold solder joints would cause intermittent display issues or a worn out ribbon cable or poor connection with display rom or socket. Try reseating the rom display chip in the socket and ribbon cable first

Quoted from TronGuy:

I bought the pin2dmd for around $210. I love it.
I have a 100% working original dmd I just pulled. If you decide you want it, $60 shipped.

Thanks for the responses. I will try all the re seating mentioned and maybe look at new ribbon cable first. I am not sure about the re flowing the solder.I sent all boards (not the screen)away for a birthday as the machine was re setting after I purchased it.The guy has test rigs and it worked when I re installed them though I did not notice the screen problem until I was watching someone else play.

I will pass on the screen but thanks for the offer.Great idea though.I dont think I would be very popular at home if I got a new screen just now.
Thanks again
Scott.

#1017 3 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Well I showed my buddy who has done coloring for pin2dmd and these were his thoughts. It’s missing a lot of color. Only has a 4 color max palate which could be due to ram size.
If anyone has good knowledge about coloring pin2dmd, I would love to hear some things about it. Can the coloring be improved?

Did your friend make any progress?

#1018 3 years ago

Can anyone answer a question on Mylar? I have circles of Mylar and a sheet cut around the pop bumpers. Is that factory Mylar? Also I’m going to remove the Mylar because it has dirt around it. Do i reapply it after or before i wax it? Doesn’t make much sense to put Mylar on top of wax. Thanks again!

#1019 3 years ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Did your friend make any progress?

He was coloring Metallica. He did complete it but said took him 3 months. He said he wouldn’t color this for me

#1020 3 years ago
Quoted from marshallkobe:

Can anyone answer a question on Mylar? I have circles of Mylar and a sheet cut around the pop bumpers. Is that factory Mylar? Also I’m going to remove the Mylar because it has dirt around it. Do i reapply it after or before i wax it? Doesn’t make much sense to put Mylar on top of wax. Thanks again!

More than likely it’s factory. When you say dirt around it, just clean it. Is it lifting? If it’s not I’d clean, novus 2, and wax

#1021 3 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

More than likely it’s factory. When you say dirt around it, just clean it. Is it lifting? If it’s not I’d clean, novus 2, and wax

Ok sounds good. I couldn’t get the dirt out from the edges so I’ll just replace it in the spots. Didn’t make sense to remove it then stick new Mylar on top of a waxed surface. Appreciate the info.

#1022 3 years ago
Quoted from marshallkobe:

Ok sounds good. I couldn’t get the dirt out from the edges so I’ll just replace it in the spots. Didn’t make sense to remove it then stick new Mylar on top of a waxed surface. Appreciate the info.

when I first got mine, it was filthy. the mylar by the jet bumpers have a dark line at the edge. doesn't bother me and just cleaned it the best I could. rest of the playfield looks mint!

#1023 3 years ago

Working at it

Mechanically perfect:
No weird bricks from the auto laucher.
Relay for the flap is closed so it doesnt shoot all the way thru (think afm)
All the mechs for the backbox work perfect and drop perfect every time (hat trick selections)
Hat trick trigger gate is perfectly dialed in with the diverter flap
2nd Diverter on ramp is adjusted not to nick the ramp plastic.
Nell motor is rebuilt and works perfectly on every engagement. (Used to not correctly when it worked)
And front cab coindoor bar holes filled in, repainted, launcher button and housing replaced!

All in all a solid project and plays great.

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#1024 3 years ago

Looking good!

#1025 3 years ago

Anyone have an idea on playfield supports? I lifted the playfield out and it went sideways and I broke a wabac ramp. I saw some data east supports on marco but are there any ones that work better?

#1026 3 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Looking good!

Still a wip, need to add some further gi lighting behind the saw house and in the drain as its so dark

#1027 3 years ago
Quoted from marshallkobe:

Anyone have an idea on playfield supports? I lifted the playfield out and it went sideways and I broke a wabac ramp. I saw some data east supports on marco but are there any ones that work better?

From my recollection, the playfield supports on Marco are from Mantis amusements. I have them in mine, they work well. you do have to carefully drill new guide holes or risk damaging the top side of your playfield.

I know on some DE games people have been successful at putting B/W style playfield support brackets on but not sure if you'd have any issues with R&B. Depends from game to game I believe.

#1028 3 years ago

Leds being leds.

Also, added a socket and lamp under Cleo as its cut out to accept, But there is no socket wired or installed in the darkest area of the pf!

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#1029 3 years ago

Gameplay by future Pro League jr.

#1030 3 years ago

Hello fellow Bullwinkle owners, I’ve made a fatal error, i pulled the plastics off to be replaced with new ones but did not document the process to reassemble some of them. Would anyone help me with the back left assembly? I’m willing to PayPal some cash for help if that’s what’s necessary. Ugh

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#1031 3 years ago

seriously good cleaning job there!!

ok flashers and switch all go to the back corner, switch gets connected to the ramps.

for plastics, the yellow goes in first, then green over it. that is looking mint otherwise!!

I just got mine all lit too. swapped out the lower vuk and pop wafer tonight.. plays so sweet.

in the same game, hit double jp 2x, and then on 2 different triball opportunities, i missed the bullwinkles treasure super jackpot 2x.. ugh!!

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#1032 3 years ago

Those two bulbs go to the red flashers that attach to the Wabac ramp. The Switch side mounts to the Wabac ramp and acts as the "ramp complete" switch. Hopefully this photo helps.

You do however have an additional matrix wire that is running off of the flasher bulbs that attach to the ramp. That isn't stock so was either done by you or a previous owner. Not sure where that's supposed to attach to.

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#1033 3 years ago

R&B is a game that I initially picked up in a package deal as trade bait, and I've fallen in love with it so much that I can't bring myself to sell it. I'm "renting" it to a friend right now (he pays me a marginal fee just to play it and have it at his house) and when he wants something new, the plan was to sell it and get another pin. Now, I'm planning on just putting it in storage and doing a full resto on it..... Eventually.

People love to shit on this game for some reason. Sure it doesn't have the deepest of rulesets and it gives you multi-balls without much work, but it has to be one of the most fun pins I've ever owned. I can play it over and over again and just laugh and laugh and laugh and laugh.

#1034 3 years ago

like any pin, when its dialed in right and everything is working properly its fast and a blast.

mine came with a misadjusted lower diverter, both lower flippers out of adjustment, right ramp was practically new because it saw so little traffic.

as much as i wish it had better rules, or more depth, it seems most de games seem to cough up MB on the 3rd ball, and all you have to do is make the shot to trigger it. getting jp seems to be a while different story, and then add in double jackpot and super jackpot and now its really cooking. i like the fact that you can add a ball when down to bi-ball mode, and the timed triball restart is also satisfying to hit the ramp when its counting down. The music with the countdown timer is well suited. going ramp to ramp over and over again gives millions and also combo rewards with a spot on the pie. Maybe for rules, if they made an option for no mystery mode, no score double and to give a bit more time for the spin and win, it would be good. SPin n win should get more use i say...

its a fun pin for sure, but it got slaughtered in 93 since so many good games came out that year...

#1035 3 years ago

trueno92 radial_head thank you guys for that info. I shut it down for tonight going to get back at it tomorrow. Total life savers.

#1036 3 years ago

im at home and play my machine at least a few times a day when i step away from the desk, tomorrow i should be putting in mirror vinyl for the sides. I'll have the glass off and can help take pics.

#1037 3 years ago

Done for now

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#1038 3 years ago

What did you use for the trough light

#1039 3 years ago

I pulled a t10 bulb holder from an old coin door, and put a super bright non ghosting no flicker from comet in there. Then i hot glued it to the underside of the apron.

I couldnt find a strip i liked and i didnt have any that didnt ghost...

#1040 3 years ago
Quoted from trueno92:

I pulled a t10 bulb holder from an old coin door, and put a super bright non ghosting no flicker from comet in there. Then i hot glued it to the underside of the apron.
I couldnt find a strip i liked and i didnt have any that didnt ghost...

Just tied into the gi?

#1041 3 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Just tied into the gi?

Yah, i just ran it thru the apron, under the pf and tied it into the gi under the left sling.

I also added strip leds to the saw house, around the pie and added a spotlamp over the left sling and added a gi lamp under the cleopatra plastic..! Its been fun and the pin deserves it!!
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#1042 3 years ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Leds being leds.
Also, added a socket and lamp under Cleo as its cut out to accept, But there is no socket wired or installed in the darkest area of the pf!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like the idea of the plastics under Nell all lit up with the LEDs, but im wondering how hard it could be to have them only come on when the motor activates. Am I crazy or is the motor 28VAC? I think it would kinda be "in theme" if I could get mine to spotlight when activated much like how the animatronics would individually flood light parts of old Disney shows or the Rock-afire Explosion to point your attention toward it. hmmm...

#1043 3 years ago

Chance! You still got this machine?

I was thinking of running the leds off the 12 flasher when the nell log is running... or when snidely wants to hit it.. like during the million drops mode...

Maybe its possible to run it off the motor... good idea too... i know the motor is just driven off timed pulses like just another coil... to a relay board to the motor.. so think of this as a knocker with 12 knocks behind it....

Maybe i will revist the flasher idea as i have a few purple 12v that could flash under the saw house... hmmm

#1044 3 years ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Chance! You still got this machine?

It was actually my game up until yesterday around 5 PM. A number of years back I told Chance he could buy it from me someday for a bro price, and he showed up with a surprise stack of cash and got'er done. Moving the game out Saturday, but I sent him home with the Freeplay40 repro left ramp and the manual so he didnt feel like he was going home empty handed. I'm a little sad to see it go, but at least its not going far. Excited to see how he ends up modding it with powder coat, and lighting, etc.

#1045 3 years ago

Yeah, haha, I showed up unannounced and bough it with a MASSIVE stack of $5 bills. (both to make the pile look bigger, and to make Josh look Sus when he takes it to the bank...)

Anyways. Yes, if somehow we could highlight the plastics under Nell with lights only when the motor is running or that Mode is on... ideally that would give the desired effect. I just keep getting that "cheap theme park early animatronic" vibe from that part of the game haha.

Also, funny as it seems (well, maybe not in this thread), this is my "grail", ultra favorite pin. There was one in the rec center of the small town south of Calgary where I grew up in the early 90's so I played it quite a bit. by happenstance Josh had one when we met and started the Canadian Arcade. so naturally I've been bugging him to sell it to me for a long time. Yesterday I showed up with the cash and gave him an ultimatum. I could take the game, or the pile of cash back with me haha.

#1046 3 years ago

Because we need to remove the head for transport into my place (long story), and because the legs etc are coming off, I figure I might as well pull the rest of the metal bits off and have it powder coated. I've come up with a few examples, All of these will be solid colors as I feel anything with fleck or sparkle will take away from the cartoonish feel of the game. Submitted for your debate....

Yellow - To match the topper. (this has been done before by another collector on Pinside, for that reason alone I kinda don't want to, but it is still a strong contender) but I still think I could do a better job of it, so

Red - To match the curtains on the back glass.

Dark Brown - A solid color closer to the brown on the back glass.

Light Brown - To match the brown on the cabinet art.

Stern "Star Trek LE" blue - Because I liked that suggestion from a friend of mine and it looked as good as the others.

Royal Blue - a Nice deep version of it to contrast the lighter blue cabinet.

"Target Matching" - a multi color version that matches the rails, targets, rubbers, etc used on the play field. Honestly if I was to do it this way, I'd make the rails/lock bar all one color, the legs all one color, the coin door another, and the hinges another. just so its not so... patchy looking as my pic. I can do another proof with that...

Pale Orange - To match the orange frame on the logo on the cabinet side art.

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#1047 3 years ago

Or... Some combination of this, where the legs are all one color the rails/hinges are another, the coin door/frame, and the lock bar all different but Mach the wire rails, targets, rubbers, etc. on the play field.

Multi Colour 2 (resized).jpgMulti Colour 2 (resized).jpg
#1048 3 years ago

I think the original black is fine.
But out of the pics you presented the sassy grass green looks good but I’d go with all green and metal flake. Or black metal flake.
Just my two cents

#1049 3 years ago

I think the original black looks good. I don’t usually care for powder coated games. If I was I like the multi to match the targets. The game is supposed to be whimsical themed so that’s the closest you can get to that I guess

#1050 3 years ago

I would do the pale orange powder coating without a doubt. It looks awesome against the blue cabinet - probably because blue and orange are complimentary on the color wheel. I think it’s ok to add the color and switch it up from the black!

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