Posted some questions in this thread if anyone can help...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pickup-rocky-and-bullwinkle-with-questions/page/2#post-2854721

Can someone let me know how the shooter housing attaches to the cabinet please? Or send pics please? My R&B was missing the housing and launch button. Just got them in. The machine is at a friends right now. Let me know thanks!

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Found what is needed. Anyone have these 2 brackets for Rocky & Bullwinkle shooter housing and the metal liner as well?

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I have some dimensions on the brackets, I can get to you. On the liner, I don't think all games had it. My step-dad made me one, but then the brackets don't seem to line up correctly and the housing is a little off, due to the thickness. shoot me a PM with your email and I will email you the pictures and dimensions that I have.
Also in a home environment, you probably don't have to worry about the liner, I think it was only there to prevent abuse.

I love R&B even though it left my collection a while ago - truly an under-rated gem! It was my first pin (hence the avatar and screen name). Here's a video I made of my machine - basic rules, strategy and a full game at 13:20. Enjoy!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pickup-rocky-and-bullwinkle-with-questions
In my thread there are some pictures with dimensions on the L bracket. the straight bracket you can kind of measure off of your machine. the part that attaches to the bracket is the same as the L, then you just need to measure where the holes fall. i assumed it was the same bracket as the L only straight, that isn't totally the case.

On my recently acquired R&B I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Nell assembly seems to be working correctly. I think I've still got the original motor (during Save Nell mode the log moves up to the spinning blade and stops there, then returns to the base after the mode is complete). Are there any steps I should take to minimize stress on this mechanism and protect the motor and gears from stripping?

I found this description in an older rec.games.pinball thread, but wasn't really sure what it meant or how to implement it:
If the Nell log doesn't fully return to its furthest back position it is possible that it will travel too far on its next movement and can load the gear reduction too much. This is caused by a 'sticking' during the log travel due to improper sliding adjustment. I machined Delrin slides to eliminate the problem the log has no wiggle at all in any direction yet travels smoothly along its path. Should last a long time. When you replace the drive belt or O ring or the motor make sure the log slides smoothly throughout its travel.

LED question. Which are the best lights to use in the spinning disc. Seems like this feature would really pop with the correct bulbs, or leave as is?

When I got mine is had flat top led's, I really like it, but I think it would look more original with some type of domed top one. But led's are the type of thing some like and some don't.

OK super duper! I think we are just going to make the brackets and forget about the liner.

Frosted lights are best so you don't get a sharp light in your eyes. The original bulbs were sleeved as well.

I agree completely, I just know what is currently on my machine. Next order I place, I will be ordering some frosted dome bulbs...

freeplay40 has been remaking various ramps and is taking an informal poll to decide which ramps to remake in the future. So please drop him a line if you'd like to see the R&B ramps remade at some point:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps

The Lion plastic is back in stock at Marco for $10 (along with the Rocky, Rhino and Arm), unfortunately I just ordered a set from Germany to avoid paying $32 on eBay, but hopefully this good news for someone else:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/830-5438-01

It's a repro, but actually is a very good one. I remember last year buying one of those and noticing it actually looked better than my original Lion plate. However, the Rocky and Rhino repros were off color and missing a couple of details (likely an oversight by whoever made them).

I just pick up a rocky and Bullwinkle a couple of days ago. I don't understand the skill shot. When I push the fire button it just launches the ball through the orbit and back down to the flippers. Is there something I'm not getting?

There's a metal "flap" (a one-way ball gate) that should block the right orbit shot and send the ball into the top lanes. It's activated and deactivated by a magnet, so either the magnet isn't working or the gate is missing. Unfortunately, it's hidden under three layers of ramps and plastics, so it may take some work to find it. As I recall, the wires leading to the magnet are black and red.

There is a gate that is Normally Closed, that will stop the ball and drop it into the 3 lanes.

It is opened by a relay so you can do a full orbit shot when that mode is lit.

RM

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Thanks Guys I knew something wasn't right

The gate could be missing or damaged.
It could be mechanically stuck in the up position.
The transistor controlling the relay could be shorted on so the gate is always up when the game is on.

RM

Unfortunately you have to spend an hour taking apart the ramps and plastics to get to it. Good to tackle it as part of an overall cleaning and LED swap job.

That's the plan although its pretty clean but you have to remove everything to get to those gi lights

If anyone's desperate for a replacement WABAC ramp, there's one here (at £135.00 plus shipping, too rich for my blood): http://www.hlss.talktalk.net/500-5632.html

Just to update, the gate was stuck in the up position because the one post was loose which made the gate get held up by the rubber that is there. It was a pita to get too but did a cleaning and leds while I had it all apart. What a difference those leds make in the gi. I can see the playfield now although about half of the regular bulb were burned out.

Not only position, but proper coil rating, voltage, and inclination of the table. All of these will make or break the jackpot shot, as well as expose the design flaw of the right orbit shot.

I couldn't agree more! It's criminally underrated, and there's far more to the game than most people realize. Love mine.

OK, since well all love our R&B machines so much, are there any code changes that we would like ChadH to make?

One bug I see is that the ending music gets cut off short, possibly when the game is on Free Play.

RussM

Yes! Reprogram "wrong hat" sound to make it less prominent. Lower replay values for the kids. Better diagnostics in test mode (my kickback has never worked and diagnosis has been futile)

Right Orbit shot will drain straight down the middle when it comes back on the left. This flaw was so bad that Data East eventually had to release a bulletin update instructing operators to drill a bracing post that bends the barrier inward on the left side.

re-gap the hat trick targets and replace/restore the padding. Will only announce "wrong hat" once per hit on these targets as it did originally when factory new.

Question re: proper setup of the hat-trick animation in the back box. I'm replacing a clever but hackish "Bullwinkle's arm" plastic, and need to figure out the proper configuration of hardware to attach to the arm plastic so that it will raise and lower along with the Lion/Rocky/Rhino plastics.

Per the manual it looks like only these two pieces are needed, and I want to be sure I'm not missing a washer, nut, or additional piece necessary to hold the whole thing together:
• http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5000-06 (grey plastic spacer 1-1/8 x 3/8 inch diameter)
• http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/232-5201-00 (6-32 x ⅜" Phillips head SEMS machine screw)

I agree, but I'm not sure Chad can add new scoring features.

That's not just code, but audio callouts and animations too (usually)

Combos would be awesome, yes.

RussM

I got confused by this too. While the part number is currently listed as a plastic spacer, the manual lists it as a hex spacer. Additionally the SEMS screw would fit such a hex spacer and hold it in place. Seems to be a mistake in the manual. I'd say just make your own spacer arm with parts if you're not sure. The trick is to make sure it isn't so long that it scrapes the plastic curtain plate.

Thanks, maybe I'll give this a try (the length at least matches the plastic spacer that matches the part no. in the manual, though I guess there's no guarantee that's the correct length needed here):
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5008-17

On that note, if anyone has a stock Bullwinkle arm (including stock "spacer lift bar" for the arm) and could measure the length of the spacer that'd be super helpful!

Fix save ball timer (as done on JP). Currently it's too short, if the ball stays in the pops for a bit you can drain SDTM without ever getting to touch the ball. Ideally it would be nice to have this adjustable, but if it has to be fixed just make it longer by default.

Fix "double score" award (awarded in Super Mystery mode only?) - too unbalanced.

Double score has a built-in threshhold so it doesn't end up ruining a contest or tournament.

Don't have anything specific to add to the possible code changes, just excited.

Best thing to adjust for this game's code would be to make the WABAC mode more lucrative. It should be worth more than it currently is and that's your biggest goal other than multi-ball. I know it is one of the puzzle awards too, but that might end up being a back door way to get into WABAC by completing all the other puzzle modes.

Any suggestions on what paint to use to touch up bullwinkles nose on the backglass?

My r&b is down for the count. Once i get a chance to look in to it ill probably have questions. The f5 fuse blew, only g.i. was working with a couple dots on the dmd. After f5 blew i had the lights on the mpu board. Replaced f5, and it blew again (missed watching it blow, but i saw a flash of light out of the corner of my eye possibly too big for a blowing fuse). After that, everything went dead. I havent dug out the multimeter yet, but looks like im in for some work!

Try wiggling the power supply connector on the power supply board, they often burn up. I had similar problems and the connector needed to be replaced.