that sucks. is there a way to get those to work without using a Dremel?

Last night I went through the painstaking process of disassembling the target, dropping it through the top of the playfield, and then assembling the switch from underneath, and even doing that, the backing post is still too large and chunky to allow the target to work properly.

I think I am going to go ahead and do this, even though they look noticeably different. I'm still going to spend some time tonight to see if there isn't a way to get these to fit in some way. They look great, they're just WAY too big.

I bought replacements a couple years ago when I was rebuilding mine. I had to dremel it out a bit but because the neck was a bit wider. The one you show in the picture the target is bigger also. I would take into account that the size difference might affect game play.

so what could be the fix? shave down the backside of it?

I am doing my best to not Dremel the playfield and figuring out a way around it. The switch stack is also much larger (taller?) than the originals. I got frustrated last night and decided to just install them without the backing bracket (the metal post that sticks up into the playfield), dropping the target through the topside of the playfield and assembling them from underneath. A total pain in the ass (especially because the screws the pieces from Marco come with are this completely stupid abnormal size and I don't have a nut driver for them). I'm thinking the worst that can happen with those switches installed without their backing post is that the target will break way easier. They all have metal posts with post sleeve rubber behind them already. In the mean time I'm trying to grind down the backing bracket provided and bending it some so that it fits easier.

If neither of these things work (they break and I can't grind down the backing bracket) I will just replace them with the non-3D version of these targets linked previously and keep my eyes out for a NOS set.

I looked at in a different perspective I guess. If the targets were a size "A" and now they are a size "B", then I decided why not trim the playfield in back a bit to make them fit. The playfield will never get touched there. It won't affect game play. You don't notice it as the target covers it up. If I have to replace them again (ARGH) I will get the "B" version anyways. A pureist will probably look at it differently but I wanted to fix it and play it.

Good luck on whatever you decide.

BTW, they work perfectly.

You know, that's a good way to look at it. Last night when doing some more topside buildup, I noticed that it seems like that part of the playfield has already been pretty badly beaten up (I'm assuming from the old bracket) so I will reconsider Dremel'ing the playfield.

Things I"ve learned from totally tearing down the playfield: label everything accurately. Not super pleased with myself having labeled a bag one late night session "You Know What These Are You Dipshit".

I do also want to follow up and say that while I had a subpar experience resolving this issue with Marco Specialties over the phone, I sent a follow up email with pictures and they were much more helpful by engaged in a conversation about the incorrect part. Still working with them to figure out the best solution.

that is good they are going to try and correct it. hopefully they figure that out.

I the brackets with the l-shaped lip removed fit perfectly. Will report to Marco.

Additionally, I put a new set of plastics on my game, so if anybody is interested in the lot, as-is, or has some specific pieces they're missing let me know. Quite a few of my old ones are cracked or have scratches but there are plenty of good ones in the lot.

Been toying with the idea of getting a R&B game. How would it compare to something like Road Show, as that's the game it would most likely replace.

-Hans

It's a fun family theme and if dialed in properly a fast game. The ruleset if pretty simple overall IMO. My kids like it, I have had mine for about 18 months and I am ready to get rid of it, but my kids ask me to keep it. It's literally the only game we will "all" play. Personally I think Road Show is a much better game though. Ruleset, shots etc. all better.

Hans if you were closer I would trade you R&B for a RS plus cash on my end, but ugh, the distance! Once I move R&B I will be in the market for one more seriously.

They are both family friendly games (R&B more so than RS in some ways) but definitely has a fairly simple ruleset. I have a friend of mine that I will likely be renting mine to when it's all up and running because he's trying to become a more accurate player and has kids in the home so it seems like a perfect fit.

How is the Boris plastic for the shooter lane? Would be interested in that and the saw blade.

Borris has a crack unfortunately (a lot of them do, which really doesn't make much sense to me). The saw blade is in good shape though. I'll PM you pictures later today.

Thanks for the kind words JJG8591, there are about a 18 of these units out there in Pinsiders machines. The details are on page 15 of this thread but I've redesigned the unit a coupe of times since the original board pictured in the post. BTW that board is in my machine and puts Nell in peril on a nearly daily basis. The new board design looks like this.

Nell Driver Board and motor (resized).jpg

How much for the latest version? Mine is perfect, and the 7 hours I spent getting it that way .....is......starting to fade. So I could possibly talk myself into changing it.

I put one, in a few months back, and it works great.
Nell runs like never before. Great work here

Still working on finishing up my R&B and while I'm about to put in one more order to Comet (well, I guess I should never say last) I'm thinking about trying to come up with some inventive ways to brighten up the back of the game. I'm tempted to try putting a frosted LED strip underneath the plastic that sits above the playfield and wire a line down from the backbox GI... but kind of worried that it would look hokey/off. I'm a lighting nut and really hate bad lighting.

Anybody tried anything that would help? Not interested in Pinstadium lighting (don't like it) and not really sure if there's anywhere in the top area that would fit a spotlight.

I loaded mine up with comet 2smd natural white and the flashers. it brightened up the game a lot. I don't see a need for more but if you do this and it works, I might consider it. with all the ramps and wire forms, you don't see much back there anyways.

so fellow club members. have some questions about game play. every Thursday has been thirsty Thursday and I go have some beers and play some pins. so far my best game on this damn machine is 249 mill. is there a wizard mode? what is your best game on this? I just want to put my name on the dang board

The Jackpot is very lucrative during multiball. Hit the Jackpot and then get the super Jackpot, left ramp builds the values and right cashes em in. I usually let one ball go quick since mine is setup insanely fast. But I can usually get in the 400M area with this strategy.

mine is very fast too. I may be going after the jackpot to early. you have to get it in the hat trick to light the jackpot in multi ball right?

anyone else have some tips and tricks? is there a wizard mode?

The "wizard mode" is the Wabac mode which is kind of peanuts unless you backhand that ramp a million times without fail. Kind of lame wizard mode if you ask me. I find that the Save Nel mode is huge points, for little effort (so long as you have the "any drop spots Nel" setting on).
Tri-ball is really the only good way to get points on this game. Bullwinkle's Treasure is the super jackpot that is worth 100mil and it isn't that impossible to get. I think my best score on it at home is somewhere in the 500mil zone but I had to reset the game a bunch and don't have those scores recorded.

Not mine, but figured I would post it here as it seems like a good deal for someone who needs it.
NOS playfield for sale over on KLOV for $400
Has a couple cracked inserts, but still sounds cheap.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=460640

I've been running into this issue with my RnB where the rhino plastic doesn't go back down on its own. The coil retracts and everything, but there's just something about the plastic that doesn't return to its normal position. I've baked every plastic and flattened them out, but there's just something that doesn't seem to want to go. I've even cleaned the tracks that they all sit on and still nothing. Anybody else have this issue? Thinking it might be a gunked up coil sleeve possibly?

I have that issue with the lion. I know the lion is a higher voltage coil so that could be my issue. I need to do the mod. I would start with checking the sleeve and making sure the mech is moving smoothly through it but it could also be the track.

It ended up being a combination of a few issues:

Coil sleeve was dirty. Cleaned it.
Rhino Plastic was bent. Flattened it.
Track is a little gummy/eroded. Have yet to clean it.
Sadly in the process I broke Bullwinkle's arm.

The hat trick toy is pretty fun, but it's pretty terribly designed if you ask me. I see no reason these pieces shouldn't have been designed so they were pulled upward from above rather than pushed upward from below. Just seems far more complicated than it needs to be.

Alright, with all of that, plastic flattened, track cleaned, coil sleeve cleaned (it is one with a lip that I didn't have on hand), foam on the bottom to catch their falls replaced, wires re-soldered. Arm mechanism replaced and tuned. NOTHING will make the rhino go down. I'm considering adding a weight to it on the bottom to see if that helps its natural fall, but outside of replacing that track, which I don't think exists online, I'm stumped. I might see if a friend can 3D Print a new, more resilient track, but that seems VERY extreme.

Any thoughts?

If it is not going down on it's own is it binding anywhere? Maybe just half a drop of the teflon superlube at the pivot point? Sounds like there is still binding or resistance to movement somewhere.

Lubricated everything and nothing was helping. I decided to take the whole thing apart again to really analyze what was wrong with this one.

When I first got this game, one of the hat trick targets had been clipped, ostensibly to try and remedy the lion target that was flying out of its track (the jnsert was just hella warped). I noticed that when I removed the left track for the rhino plastic, it worked perfectly, so this got me thinking. I reinstalled the track and noticed that due to the long pivot point of the Rhino coil arm attachment, the plastic was getting caught on the lower half of the longer track plastic.

Light bulb! Swapped the already clipped track from the lion plastic with the full one with the rhino. Works perfectly now.

The shorter (clipped?) long track looks visibly modified, so potentially somebody has already fixed this before and then reinstalled the tracks wrong? I can’t say.

What I can say is that my R&B is finally working 100% and I’m happy to finally send it off to a new home. Renting this one out to a buddy of mine who has some young ones he’s trying to get into the hobby. Seems like a good fit.

AF8B6686-502F-4D8D-8D05-7B040081F34D (resized).jpeg

I posted this a couple years ago when I finished coloring RAB, since then, there have been a lot of new owners join the club.
So here’s my plug for the best upgrade for your machine
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-announces-game-60-rocky-and-bullwinkle#post-3872132

99DF41F3-EA2F-465A-BE3A-3AD5283FE2A6 (resized).jpeg

Yeah, I think a ColorDMD looks killer in this game. Wish I hadn't already sunk $600+ into this shop job I would be all over a colorDMD. Wish that the return on this game was something that warranted a new backglass, color DMD, and new cabinet decals, mine are junk.

Just installed ColorDMD and am thrilled with the results. R&B was our first pin and will be the last to go. Nearly 20 years of ownership and it makes me smile every time it’s powered on! ColorDMD is the best mod EVER!

I've recently picked up a R&B and have noticed that the 'Hat Trick' shot (left orbit diverted to a VUK) bounces back about 50% of the time. I was curious if other owners experience this and if there is a known fix before digging into it.

Thanks!

I would check the coil and mech for the diverter to make sure it is opening up far enough and long enough to allow the ball to be diverted into the VUK. if the sleeve or linkage/coil stops or something are not in great condition, I could see it partially opening and causing the ball to not make it in there.

Also, any obstructions in the path to the VUK? Game is not set too steep? Flippers are powerful enough to launch the ball around the orbits normally?

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that this was after rebuilding all coils, mechs, top-side teardown/clean. The diverter works well and directs the ball no problem. It's just at high speeds it appears to bounce off of the back bracket above the hole to send it off at an odd angle. I'll just tweak on the guides around the hole. Probably just need to square them up a bit.

One thing that has helped me a few time with shots that have bad feeds was running the slow motion video record from my phone and capture the shot failing. It let me see where my ball might have been getting hung up along its path and what i could bend/adjust to clean the feed up.

I was recently chatting with a friend of mine who was having a similar issue with his R&B. I was having an issue similar with the SuperVUK on the puzzle subway, but fixed it by rebuilding and readjusting the depth of the scoop catch/launch mechanism. I don't have this problem with mine, so I haven't futzed with the upper playfield VUK, but I wouldn't doubt if it has some sort of depth control adjustment within the bracket.

It not that, I guess you could adjust or try bending the metal guard/deflector on the back of that shot. Might not be sitting just right.

New issue for me. Coils stopped working. Replaced the bridge that attaches to the head. Everything worked fine for 2 months. Now the coils have stopped working again. I assume it’s the bridge again. Seems I am working on the symptom, not the cure. Will check coils, diodes and trannys. Any suggestions? Thanks

before replacing the bridge, test it. not a super tech but if the bridge blew again, there has to be a spike blowing it. so a bridge switches the voltage ac/dc. would need to look at schematics but may need to look at transformer to make sure you are getting correct voltages.

anyone know how to adjust bullwinkles arm in the backbox? all of the inserts keep getting stuck behind the arm and then stay up. any thoughts on that?

No adjustment that I'm aware of. Do you have the correct washers and spacer at the end of the arm?

Bullwinkle 001 (resized).JPG

Bullwinkle 002 (resized).JPG

If you haven't done so, I would suggest placing a felt washer over the screw head which pivots the arm at Bullwinkle's shoulder. If/when that screw works loose, the paint will be removed at Bullwinkle's nose.

I have to check the back part but I think I have the washers on there. I'll check when I'm done with work

There’s my problem. Don’t have the back washer. I hope I can find one at the hardware store

A75BF206-621A-4C34-B8CD-D88B3429D146 (resized).jpeg

Is that rear washer metal, nylon, or plastic like the front one

Metal. Look for a ‘fender washer’.