Quoted from freddy:Check photo Gallary this thread
I see a picture of what looks like (cant see the entire name of the product)
Craft smart
Bright blue
?
Quoted from freddy:Check photo Gallary this thread
I see a picture of what looks like (cant see the entire name of the product)
Craft smart
Bright blue
?
Quoted from TronGuy:I see a picture of what looks like (cant see the entire name of the product)
Craft smart
Bright blue
?
It’s a start.
Quoted from freddy:It’s a start.
ok, seeing as that is the only paint I see in any of the images in this thread, I guess I'll pick some of that up.
After I buy it, I guess you can give me the next clue?
Quoted from TronGuy:ok, seeing as that is the only paint I see in any of the images in this thread, I guess I'll pick some of that up.
After I buy it, I guess you can give me the next clue?
maybe contact the poster of the image
Just received the Classic Playfields R&B backglass, picked it up during their Black Friday sale.
To me it looks fantastic, my game (project) was actually missing the bg.
Has anyone done a side by side comparison?
Quoted from Arcadedl:Just received the Classic Playfields R&B backglass, picked it up during their Black Friday sale.
To me it looks fantastic, my game (project) was actually missing the bg.
Has anyone done a side by side comparison?
I’d like to know as well
Iam curious how well light shows thru glass
Hoping it’s not dark like some other repo BG
Hey everyone, have a strange question. I have a Rottendog Power Supply board in my R&B, the hum was crazy. So I bought a NOS DE updated board and the display went crazy. So I put the Rottendog back in. Now the back half of GI lighting and the pop bumper lights are not working 99% of the time. I tried reseating the connectors. Any tips on how to solve this? If I have to live with the hum, so be it but the lighting makes the game less enjoyable. Thank you.
jdub
I would go back with the original but before plugging in everything, check the voltage out puts. the display could be wonkie due to the voltage being off. my need to do a rebuild kit.
so I have a question for you fellas. those 456 bulb in the back box at the top left corner, are there any led bulbs for that?
Quoted from TronGuy:ok, seeing as that is the only paint I see in any of the images in this thread, I guess I'll pick some of that up.
After I buy it, I guess you can give me the next clue?
TronGuy I bought some paint for my LW3 and just used it on my R&B and it looks like a near perfect match. I wouldn’t be surprised if DE used the same blue for the base paint on multiple games. That said, I have satin and believe it should be semi-gloss but the color looks great. Paint label from Lowe’s attached.
0CF233BC-32DE-4347-B1B2-46F7E82F3707 (resized).jpegDoes anyone have pics of Rocky's arm to show what is used to pivot and what should go over the animals? I bought a new plastic set that has the arm and i need to add it.
Thanks in Advance. I tried searching but found no good pics
Quoted from Happy81724:Does anyone have pics of Rocky's arm to show what is used to pivot and what should go over the animals? I bought a new plastic set that has the arm and i need to add it.
Thanks in Advance. I tried searching but found no good pics
this might help.
arm1 (resized).JPGarm2 (resized).JPGr&b (resized).JPGQuoted from Happy81724:Does anyone have pics of Rocky's arm to show what is used to pivot and what should go over the animals? I bought a new plastic set that has the arm and i need to add it.
Thanks in Advance. I tried searching but found no good pics
Also look in this thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rb-rocky-and-bullwinkle-mod-to-reduce-power-at-the-lion-backbox-coil#post-658709
Question: does anybody have good pictures of the Way Back ramp top left red dome cover setup?
I need the wiring lamp socket set up and the spacer setup and the screw size/nuts/hex spacer setup.
The ramp came in pieces... I am doing my best to get it put together correctly...
Thanks in advance.
I'm offering my newly designed R&B apron cards for $10 a set including postage ($12 for international orders). A current owner who has purchased other cards from me asked for me to design something, so I wanted to offer them to the entire group. I hand make them using a photo quality printer with OEM inks and ultra gloss thick OEM photo paper. I then coat with a clear gloss laminate, cut to size, and color the edges so the white edges of the paper aren't visible.
If interested, please PM me.
IMG_3559.JPGQuestion on switch #29. Part of the super VUK. Should the switch be closed when the up kicker plunger is down? I assume so but need to ask. Looks like the previous hack wrapped a tie wrap around the shaft to make the switch. Thanks
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm offering my newly designed R&B apron cards for $10 a set including postage ($12 for international orders). A current owner who has purchased other cards from me asked for me to design something, so I wanted to offer them to the entire group. I hand make them using a photo quality printer with OEM inks and ultra gloss thick OEM photo paper. I then coat with a clear gloss laminate, cut to size, and color the edges so the white edges of the paper aren't visible.
If interested, please PM me.[quoted image]
I thought I'd mention that these look awesome on my game. Thank you
Just jumping in here! Club member over here! Currently going through and stripping my game down. Planning on doing new cabinet decals, and a few of the boards need new components. Power Supply board needs to be rebuilt and the sound board needs new capacitors.
IMG_9556 (resized).JPGIMG_9555 (resized).JPGQuoted from radial_head:Just jumping in here! Club member over here! Currently going through and stripping my game down. Planning on doing new cabinet decals, and a few of the boards need new components. Power Supply board needs to be rebuilt and the sound board needs new capacitors.[quoted image][quoted image]
Show the playfield. Looks like you have a nice project so far. And welcome to the club. you'll have fun with it
Quoted from Puckstop:Question on switch #29. Part of the super VUK. Should the switch be closed when the up kicker plunger is down? I assume so but need to ask. Looks like the previous hack wrapped a tie wrap around the shaft to make the switch. Thanks
you still need pics?
Quoted from radial_head:Just jumping in here! Club member over here! Currently going through and stripping my game down. Planning on doing new cabinet decals, and a few of the boards need new components. Power Supply board needs to be rebuilt and the sound board needs new capacitors.[quoted image][quoted image]
I don't see battery damage on your MPU but I would pull the batteries and install NVRAM on the board. Then you'll never have to worry about it.
On the board board check the fuse clips, look for cold solder joints and at least replace the cap for the 5V supply. That one often leaks and eats the traces so you may need to do trace repairs too. Fixed a bunch of those.
For the sound issues if it is excess noise the caps may help a little but just be warned that most DE games just make a lot of excess noise. Comes from the MPU, lamps in attract mode, power supply, etc. Several sources and there is a huge thread on pinside just about audio issues. Some games are noisier than others. A lot of people just install a dedicated switching supply for the sound to resolve it. FYI
I am having trouble with my hat trick. It is missing the lower arm guide and the hand assembly is jumping back, falling behind the front card.
Does anyone have a spare or know what kind of material would be best to form one out of? I can’t find a good picture of the bracket to see it’s shape.
Any help appreciated.
I am having sound problems with my R&B. When I press the start button Bullwinkle says “It’s showtime”. I have no sound during game play. In Test I occasionally get correct music and speech but most often it’s all Bullwinkle saying “It’s showtime” for each test. I have replaced the ribbon cable from the sound card to the MPU with no change. Anyone have a similar problem or have an idea as to where to start diagnostics?
Any help is appreciated.
Quoted from kba78:Found these. Hope they help
This was a big help. New wire-form made. Problem solved. Thank you.
Quoted from Phesson:I am having sound problems with my R&B. When I press the start button Bullwinkle says “It’s showtime”. I have no sound during game play. In Test I occasionally get correct music and speech but most often it’s all Bullwinkle saying “It’s showtime” for each test. I have replaced the ribbon cable from the sound card to the MPU with no change. Anyone have a similar problem or have an idea as to where to start diagnostics?
Any help is appreciated.
Someone with more experience should chime in (mine was experiencing some of these symptoms before it went into a coma) but I believe there are some notorious power issues that require power taps in-between the PSU and sound board on a lot of DE games from this era.
Quoted from Phesson:I am having sound problems with my R&B. When I press the start button Bullwinkle says “It’s showtime”. I have no sound during game play. In Test I occasionally get correct music and speech but most often it’s all Bullwinkle saying “It’s showtime” for each test. I have replaced the ribbon cable from the sound card to the MPU with no change. Anyone have a similar problem or have an idea as to where to start diagnostics?
Any help is appreciated.
have you checked the sound chip sockets and tried to reseat the chips?
Quoted from Bax1:have you checked the sound chip sockets and tried to reseat the chips?
Will do. Thank you.
Quoted from Phesson:Will do. Thank you.
That was the fix!!
Thanks for the good advice.
Quoted from Phesson:That was the fix!!
Thanks for the good advice.
awesome. just make sure the sockets are nice and tight.
Anyone replaced the fire button housing and button on their R&B? I ordered one from Marco and can't figure out how the light assembly stays in the button? TIA.
Quoted from JDub03:Anyone replaced the fire button housing and button on their R&B? I ordered one from Marco and can't figure out how the light assembly stays in the button? TIA.
on the original i think it is glued. the one from marco it just twist out
Finally able to get my R&B over from the warehouse (my parents basement) into the homestead (my apartment haha) so I could work on it more regularly.
This was working when I got it but quickly stopped booting. Going to see if I can get to the bottom of it while I do a full playfield teardown and clean.
864FE356-D319-4CE0-B48A-EBB8FE73A955 (resized).jpegEC4FB7B3-C5F8-416B-B522-EF444D100F48 (resized).jpegQuoted from radial_head:Finally able to get my R&B over from the warehouse (my parents basement) into the homestead (my apartment haha) so I could work on it more regularly.
This was working when I got it but quickly stopped booting. Going to see if I can get to the bottom of it while I do a full playfield teardown and clean.[quoted image][quoted image]
Have you checked for battery damage? It tends to leak down on the CPU chip and the crystal oscillator. Can often eat through the fine traces for the clock and reset line. Also the cap for the 5V supply often goes bad. Those tend to leak as well and eat away at the traces on the PCB. I had to fix that on mine and have repaired a bunch of other boards with similar issues.
Quoted from JDub03:Anyone replaced the fire button housing and button on their R&B? I ordered one from Marco and can't figure out how the light assembly stays in the button? TIA.
After market led, or standard classic bulb?
Quoted from TronGuy:After market led, or standard classic bulb?
The entire housing/button kit. The kit from Marco doesn't seem to "stay in". It appears the original is glued, which is bizarre to me.
Quoted from JDub03:The entire housing/button kit. The kit from Marco doesn't seem to "stay in". It appears the original is glued, which is bizarre to me.
I just changed my original to the marcos a month ago. it was a pain but got it done. there is a nut on the back of the button that holds it in the housing. marcos does have a twist and lock in place. just solder it back on the same way. wires are not long so just be careful not to break it.
The rear backglass channel on my game is pretty badly damaged. Anybody had any luck using one of these as a replacement?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8091
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Have you checked for battery damage? It tends to leak down on the CPU chip and the crystal oscillator. Can often eat through the fine traces for the clock and reset line. Also the cap for the 5V supply often goes bad. Those tend to leak as well and eat away at the traces on the PCB. I had to fix that on mine and have repaired a bunch of other boards with similar issues.
It didn't LOOK like there was a problem, but I will triple check this week and let you know. The PSU had a bunch of kind of wacky repairs, so I'm thinking it's mostly a PSU problem.
Hi All,
I am having an issue I cannot figure out. Straight out of the launch the gate lift coil is raising so the ball does not bounce off at the top for the skill shot. Instead, it just wraps completely around and drains right between the two flippers. Really frustrating. Please help!!! It did not always do this. Just started happening. Me and my kiddos love this game and want to get back to rocking!!! Thank you all!!
Quoted from Spud1982:Hi All,
I am having an issue I cannot figure out. Straight out of the launch the gate lift coil is raising so the ball does not bounce off at the top for the skill shot. Instead, it just wraps completely around and drains right between the two flippers. Really frustrating. Please help!!! It did not always do this. Just started happening. Me and my kiddos love this game and want to get back to rocking!!! Thank you all!!
It sounds like the playfield may be getting validated early. My guess would be an overly sensitive sling or pop bumper firing early making the code exit the skill shot mode before the ball hits the upper right orbit switch.
Quoted from classicgamefan:It sounds like the playfield may be getting validated early. My guess would be an overly sensitive sling or pop bumper firing early making the code exit the skill shot mode before the ball hits the upper right orbit switch.
This is a good guess. I would also make sure that coil hasnt become unplugged. Easy for that to happen without much notice due to its location (if it isnt properly tied down).
Word to the wise: the “Narrow 3D Standup Target” Marco offers... The head is too big to fit through the slot on the playfield, and on top of that, if you DO go through the painstaking task of dropping the target in and then assembling the playfield fixture, the target wont fit and flex properly. Pretty bummed out.
Trying to decide if I should dremel the playfield or try to find NOS targets that ACTUALLY fit.
I have to call Marco anyway tomorrow to clear up a mistaken double shipment they sent me and will be bringing this up with them.
Ball is coming out of Aesop and son so “hot” that it more often than not shoots over the playfield, off the glass and into the left drain.
Any ideas of cause and fix?
Quoted from Pizzaman13:Ball is coming out of Aesop and son so “hot” that it more often than not shoots over the playfield, off the glass and into the left drain.
Any ideas of cause and fix?
I had the same issue with mine when I got it. I cleaned everything, found a new scoop, replaced the coil etc...nothing seemed to fix it. So I cut a square of clear plexiglass over the area and haven't had an issue since.
Quoted from radial_head:Word to the wise: the “Narrow 3D Standup Target” Marco offers... The head is too big to fit through the slot on the playfield, and on top of that, if you DO go through the painstaking task of dropping the target in and then assembling the playfield fixture, the target wont fit and flex properly. Pretty bummed out.
Trying to decide if I should dremel the playfield or try to find NOS targets that ACTUALLY fit.
I have to call Marco anyway tomorrow to clear up a mistaken double shipment they sent me and will be bringing this up with them.
[quoted image]
That's a bummer. hopefully they do have the correct ones. please keep us updated. those targets get bashed on a lot and can see them breaking soon on mine.
Quoted from Bax1:That's a bummer. hopefully they do have the correct ones. please keep us updated. those targets get bashed on a lot and can see them breaking soon on mine.
Just got off the phone with Marco and was basically told to pound sand and pay the 20% restocking fee which blows. I may just keep them and see if I can't make them work. Hoping to not have to Dremel the playfield, but it's seemingly either that or use these other Standup targets that Pinball Life has... Not original, but they'd fit. https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-12-x-1-small-rectangle-target-switch.html
Quoted from radial_head:Just got off the phone with Marco and was basically told to pound sand and pay the 20% restocking fee which blows. I may just keep them and see if I can't make them work. Hoping to not have to Dremel the playfield, but it's seemingly either that or use these other Standup targets that Pinball Life has... Not original, but they'd fit. https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-12-x-1-small-rectangle-target-switch.html
I had a similar issue with targets on Data East Star Trek when I was rebuilding it. When it came to R&B, I just ordered Williams targets from PBL. They fit perfect and worked great.
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