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(Topic ID: 146487)

"That trick never works!" - Rocky & Bullwinkle Club!


By RDReynolds

4 years ago



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  • 901 posts
  • 107 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Bravebluerx
  • Topic is favorited by 49 Pinsiders

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There are 901 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 19.
#701 1 year ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

at least that part of the machine has no impact on the game play! Game on!

That is what I was thinking as well. At least once I get the other half of the playfield's components removed and cleaned, I can coin her up and play.

I am thinking of pulling the color DMD from my guns n roses and putting it in here. Do I need to do some type of programming or something? I've never even messed with the color dmd before. It came in my gnr.

#702 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

That is what I was thinking as well. At least once I get the other half of the playfield's components removed and cleaned, I can coin her up and play.
I am thinking of pulling the color DMD from my guns n roses and putting it in here. Do I need to do some type of programming or something? I've never even messed with the color dmd before. It came in my gnr.

For Color DMD, I believe you'll need to program the unit with the color code for Rocky and Bullwinkle. There should be a USB port on the Color DMD unit, and there are instructions on the Color DMD website for how to update the code. Code download for the DMD for RAB should be here https://colordmd.com/download1.php?rom=RAB_3_0

#703 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

That is what I was thinking as well. At least once I get the other half of the playfield's components removed and cleaned, I can coin her up and play.
I am thinking of pulling the color DMD from my guns n roses and putting it in here. Do I need to do some type of programming or something? I've never even messed with the color dmd before. It came in my gnr.

Gnr uses an LCD color dmd, r&b only used the led version..

#704 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

Gnr uses an LCD color dmd, r&b only used the led version..

So they are incompatible?

#705 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

So they are incompatible?

My understanding: The LED ColorDMD fits into the standard Data East speaker panel without modifying the panel. For the LCD, you have to permanently modify the panel, which I wouldn’t want to do. GNR doesn’t use the plastic panel, so you can use either the LED or LCD version.

Added 14 months ago:

Looks like ColorDMD only has official support for the LED version with R&B. See the next post for details.

#706 1 year ago
Quoted from classicgamefan:

My understanding: The LED ColorDMD fits into the standard Data East speaker panel without modifying the panel. For the LCD, you have to permanently modify the panel, which I wouldn’t want to do. GNR doesn’t use the plastic panel, so you can use either the LED or LCD version.

Not quite, the LCD cant be used in the R&B because they didnt make the software for it, they only made R&B software in the LED Dot style.. not sure why. maybe has something to do with the game. I have GNR also with the color DMD LCD screen, you can set it to dot style also.. no modification was needed on GNR. I suppose you could use the LCD panel in a R&B, but they cost $40-$50 more, and you wont be able to use the LCD style images anyway. Side note, if you have other games, he gave me a nice discount for buying 10 screens at once.. so you may want to inquire about that if you have more games you can use screens in.

#707 1 year ago

I am pretty pumped! I have 3 days off and I think I am going to be able to put in some hours on the clean up of this machine.

Got the new nell motor.

I have this 1 plastic from a 8 or 9 piece protector set , that I cannot tell where it goes.

18E8A649-F3A6-4E88-A912-A88126DDDBB4 (resized).jpeg Added 14 months ago:

Figured out where this goes.

#708 1 year ago

May as well get a few more pics of the filth while I am working through it.

What are the odds I get this put back together properly? Haha

066AB3D2-E381-433B-9140-D9936616D618 (resized).jpeg07F428DD-063A-4E01-BC3D-1B879A01FAD7 (resized).jpeg806FE153-6D57-4859-8159-F1FFFFE41761 (resized).jpeg
#709 1 year ago

I decided to stop here and wax everything that is waxable. My new comet bulbs arrive tomorrow so I cant really finish today anyway. After I get it put back together, I’ll get that final piece of the right ramp up, cleaned, waxed, rubbered, leds.

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#710 1 year ago

A couple of things are holding me back a little. (though there is plenty to do, so no wasted time really)

How do you remove the pop bumper skirts (or whatever they are called)?

What is the best way to get the spin to win cover off. I see 4 small plastic screws but they just spin, they don't come out. I guess I have to figure out how to get back in there and get some pliers on the plastic nut on the back side? (assuming that is what is back there)?

Edit: spin to win pops off, got that figured out. Pop bumper skirts, I assume I need to get under the playfield. I will report back tomorrow.

#711 1 year ago

I want to replace my flipper bats.

Yellow seems cool.

Any suggestions on where to buy?

#712 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

I want to replace my flipper bats.
Yellow seems cool.
Any suggestions on where to buy?

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly-yellow.html

#713 1 year ago

Ordered the flipper bats , thanks.

Here are two pics of the pass through for the Hat trick. Looks like a wire broke off. I think it goes on the center prong.

More importantly it looks like I am missing an “arm” to the microswitch that would trigger the switch each time I pass through? If so, can someone tell me where to order a replacement?
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#714 1 year ago

Well its a minor miracle. I got it back together. The play field looks fantastic now.

Coins up, starts, but doesn’t kick a ball to the shooter lane for launch.

I am done for today.

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#715 1 year ago

Ok I soldered the wire to the hat trick ramp, and found the little actuator arm in the bottom of the cab. Haha.

I snapped it back on and it works fine.

I have 2 distinct issues , otherwise I am up and running:

The ball will NOT kick out into the shooter lane for launch.
When the ball drains, it sits in the bottom of the cab, kind of not registering that it drained. I assume these could be related?

I am clunky at best in test mode, but while I was in switch test (i think), I believe I was being given operator tech alerts for:
Outhole
Trough #1 left
Trough #2 center
Trough #3 right

This issues are all tied together huh?

After this, and installing my new nell motor, I should be good.

#716 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

Ok I soldered the wire to the hat trick ramp, and found the little actuator arm in the bottom of the cab. Haha.
I snapped it back on and it works fine.
I have 2 distinct issues , otherwise I am up and running:
The ball will NOT kick out into the shooter lane for launch.
When the ball drains, it sits in the bottom of the cab, kind of not registering that it drained. I assume these could be related?
I am clunky at best in test mode, but while I was in switch test (i think), I believe I was being given operator tech alerts for:
Outhole
Trough #1 left
Trough #2 center
Trough #3 right
This issues are all tied together huh?
After this, and installing my new nell motor, I should be good.

Yeah..it's telling you those switches are activated..which they are because there are balls sitting in the trough switches..

#717 1 year ago
Quoted from classicgamefan:

While 3.20 is technically the latest code, Data East (and even later into the 2000s Stern manuals for newer games) continued to report 1.30 as the latest code. The official Stern CD-ROMs that used to be available also contain version 1.30. My recollection from messing with the two is that 3.20 had a bug in the custom pricing settings that caused odd behavior with certain setting combinations. If you are using free play or standard pricing, I don't think there was a problem with either version.
3.20 also added support for printouts, but since the necessary wiring is probably not present on most R&Bs and the printers aren't exactly commonplace anyway, it's kind of a moot point. I wrote up a deep dive into the rules using 1.30 several years ago and updated Keefer's rule sheet, but it should apply to either version:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fractured-pinball-rules-rocky-and-bullwinkle-re-re-re-visited
Please note that in general you don't want to mix major versions of the CPU and Display ROMs or you may get weird graphics and/or display resets.
Jon

I noticed that my machine has code 1.10 (I think)

I am a rom burning newb. Does anyone sell a plug and play chip for the update?

#718 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

I noticed that my machine has code 1.10 (I think)
I am a rom burning newb. Does anyone sell a plug and play chip for the update?

If I recall you'll want to check the display ROM since it should also be updated to match. I made the latest set for mine and it works great.

#719 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

Yeah..it's telling you those switches are activated..which they are because there are balls sitting in the trough switches..

thanks

I spent some more time in there and determine 4 coils aren't firing.

Out hole, shooter lane , and 2 in the back box, squirrel and rhino.

Looks like they all feed off of the same connector (J2 I think), so I am going to explore that when I get some time.

#720 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

thanks
I spent some more time in there and determine 4 coils aren't firing.
Out hole, shooter lane , and 2 in the back box, squirrel and rhino.
Looks like they all feed off of the same connector (J2 I think), so I am going to explore that when I get some time.

If you test the flashers does the lion coil fire? I had an issue with the K1 relay not energizing due to the power supply and one of the symptoms was the outhole and shooter lane coils wouldn't work. Also when you test the flashers, the lion coil energized.

There is an old thread about it here. Best of luck.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/coils-and-flashers-not-working

#721 1 year ago
Quoted from suave84:

If you test the flashers does the lion coil fire? I had an issue with the K1 relay not energizing due to the power supply and one of the symptoms was the outhole and shooter lane coils wouldn't work. Also when you test the flashers, the lion coil energized.
There is an old thread about it here. Best of luck.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/coils-and-flashers-not-working

I got it virtually 100% working now. Ended up being cracked solder joints on the lower left board in the back box.

#722 1 year ago

So my current nell motor isn’y functioning properly. I can hear it running though.

Anyway, I have the unit apart. The shaft of the motor has come loose from the motor and is stuck in the pulley.

I removed the set screw. It won’t budge. Wd40, it won’t budge. Pics below, with a pic of the new motor.

Any insight?

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#723 1 year ago

ok, I finally banged that old shaft out. (insert joke)

Got the new motor installed and it works very nicely. I agree with prior comments that it may not be uniform as far as going up and then coming right back down, but it works, and its cool.

Cliffys installed, (the cliffys really saved my wabac ramp. It had a huge chunk missing and the left cliffy took care of it), motor installed. Way more hours than I'd care to admit.

All I need now is the new legs I ordered (the machine is not level, and I can't get the feet to move even after soaking with pb blaster for 2 days), NVRAM (also on order), oh yeah I got the new yellow flipper bats (and a full rebuid kit just to have on hand). I need to consider upgrading the revision from 1.10 to whatever the most current is, and boom I'll be as good as I could hope to be.

edit : oh yeah , I need to install the new Lion I have in the back box, and finish rebuilding/reflowing solder to each of the boards in the back box. 2 down, 2 to go.

#724 1 year ago

I am not sure of the best place for this (or if there is even a need).

I have my original nell spring and motor I replaced, I would sell.

#725 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

I need to consider upgrading the revision from 1.10 to whatever the most current is, and boom I'll be as good as I could hope to be.
edit : oh yeah , I need to install the new Lion I have in the back box, and finish rebuilding/reflowing solder to each of the boards in the back box. 2 down, 2 to go.

When you go to 1.10 make sure you upgrade the display ROM as well. There is a matching version for that. I'd have to check but I think the one I run is 1.3

#726 1 year ago

thanks I think I have a local buddy who burns roms all of the time doing this for me.

Question:

What angle should R and B be set at? I think I should be at a steeper incline, but I have the back legs all the way up and the front legs all the way down. My ball gets stuck in the nell targets quite often. Pisses me off. It seems like if it were steeper , that wouldn't happen? I bought some new feet with soft rubber on the bottom. Maybe I need longer feet?

I had another question but I"ll have to remember it and get back.

#727 1 year ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

thanks I think I have a local buddy who burns roms all of the time doing this for me.
Question:
What angle should R and B be set at? I think I should be at a steeper incline, but I have the back legs all the way up and the front legs all the way down. My ball gets stuck in the nell targets quite often. Pisses me off. It seems like if it were steeper , that wouldn't happen? I bought some new feet with soft rubber on the bottom. Maybe I need longer feet?
I had another question but I"ll have to remember it and get back.

6.5 Someone may have swapped legs on you.

Measure on the playfield at the top of the slings. At least that was what was suggested a couple of weeks ago.

#728 1 year ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

6.5 Someone may have swapped legs on you.
Measure on the playfield at the top of the slings. At least that was what was suggested a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks
I determined the cause of my ball sitting on nell targets is because a large band should be sitting behind the targets. My machine didn't have that rubber when I got it. So I am happy about that part. Almost there to having this in fantastic playing shape.

2 weeks later
#729 1 year ago

Hello Poetry Pals! I bought a Rocky and Bullwinkle machine a couple of months ago and the Nell motor unit was not working so I tried fixing my motor but a previous owner had already already attempted this to no avail. I then bought a replacement motor from Marco for $64. Unfortunately this motor didn’t have enough torque to drive Nell with the original return spring so sometimes Nell moved towards the saw blade and sometimes Nell moved away from it.

In the original design the Data East designers chose to use an AC asynchronous motor that was geared down to 4RPM to drive the log and saw blade. Asynchronous motors (like the kind in your microwave turntable) will run either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the starting position. This means that about half the time the motor will run the wrong way and put stress on the reduction gears which eventually fail.

I was frustrated with this because the Nell toy is one of the coolest parts of the machine so I decided to design a direct drop in replacement to fix this. My requirements were that the Nell toy unit that would:

1) always run the correct direction
2) reverse at the end of travel (save Nell or “It’s Curtains!”)
3) not run past the end of travel so that no undue stress is put onto the mechanism.
4) not require any rewiring or other complex electronic work, just plug and play!

To use this new system, the old Nell motor is removed and a new one is put in its place using the holes that mounted the old motor. The original gear and pulley are replaced with a new 3D printed version that can be mounted on the shorter shaft of the new motor. A new driver board with all of the onboard electronics is screwed to the bottom of the playfield in place of the original board and plugged into the native driver board plug (no rewiring). Nell needs to be slid to the far end away from the saw blade and you are ready to go!

Design, testing and manufacturing (Eagle design, custom etching, CNC drill pattern etc) has taken a lot of time so I made three boards since I was set up for production. One is in my machine and has been working great for a few weeks and the other two I’m offering up for sale to the first two Pinsiders who reach out to me via a message on Pinside. The cost for the board and 3D printed parts is $80 and I’ll ship via USPS Priority mail which is $8 for the small flat rate box for the continental US, I'm not sure about Hawaii or Alaska (Total of $88).

I've included photos down below of:

-The driver board mounted under the playfield.
-The motor with mount and printed gear/pulley unit.
-The two units that are for sale and ready to ship.

Here is a youtube video of the unit in action! First I show what happens when Nell is not rescued, note that the log moves at exactly the right speed to just reach the saw blade when "It's Curtains!" Second I show a Nell save. In each case the log moves quickly and smoothly back to it's starting point.

20190929_140216 (resized).jpg20190929_135259 (resized).jpg20190929_195039 (resized).jpg
#730 1 year ago

Awesome! If I didn’tjust spent 10 hours and $60 on a replacement motor, I’d be in.

#731 1 year ago
Quoted from scottacus:

Hello Poetry Pals! I bought a Rocky and Bullwinkle machine a couple of months ago and the Nell motor unit was not working so I tried fixing my motor but a previous owner had already already attempted this to no avail. I then bought a replacement motor from Marco for $64. Unfortunately this motor didn’t have enough torque to drive Nell with the original return spring so sometimes Nell moved towards the saw blade and sometimes Nell moved away from it.
In the original design the Data East designers chose to use an AC asynchronous motor that was geared down to 4RPM to drive the log and saw blade. Asynchronous motors (like the kind in your microwave turntable) will run either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the starting position. This means that about half the time the motor will run the wrong way and put stress on the reduction gears which eventually fail.
I was frustrated with this because the Nell toy is one of the coolest parts of the machine so I decided to design a direct drop in replacement to fix this. My requirements were that the Nell toy unit that would:
1) always run the correct direction
2) reverse at the end of travel (save Nell or “It’s Curtains!”)
3) not run past the end of travel so that no undue stress is put onto the mechanism.
4) not require any rewiring or other complex electronic work, just plug and play!
To use this new system, the old Nell motor is removed and a new one is put in its place using the holes that mounted the old motor. The original gear and pulley are replaced with a new 3D printed version that can be mounted on the shorter shaft of the new motor. A new driver board with all of the onboard electronics is screwed to the bottom of the playfield in place of the original board and plugged into the native driver board plug (no rewiring). Nell needs to be slid to the far end away from the saw blade and you are ready to go!
Design, testing and manufacturing (Eagle design, custom etching, CNC drill pattern etc) has taken a lot of time so I made three boards since I was set up for production. One is in my machine and has been working great for a few weeks and the other two I’m offering up for sale to the first two Pinsiders who reach out to me via a message on Pinside. The cost for the board and 3D printed parts is $80 and I’ll ship via USPS Priority mail which is $8 for the small flat rate box for the continental US, I'm not sure about Hawaii or Alaska (Total of $88).
I've included photos down below of:
-The driver board mounted under the playfield.
-The motor with mount and printed gear/pulley unit.
-The two units that are for sale and ready to ship.
Here is a youtube video of the unit in action! First I show what happens when Nell is not rescued, note that the log moves at exactly the right speed to just reach the saw blade when "It's Curtains!" Second I show a Nell save. In each case the log moves quickly and smoothly back to it's starting point.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

PM sent.

#732 1 year ago
Quoted from scottacus:

Hello Poetry Pals! I bought a Rocky and Bullwinkle machine a couple of months ago and the Nell motor unit was not working so I tried fixing my motor but a previous owner had already already attempted this to no avail. I then bought a replacement motor from Marco for $64. Unfortunately this motor didn’t have enough torque to drive Nell with the original return spring so sometimes Nell moved towards the saw blade and sometimes Nell moved away from it.
In the original design the Data East designers chose to use an AC asynchronous motor that was geared down to 4RPM to drive the log and saw blade. Asynchronous motors (like the kind in your microwave turntable) will run either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the starting position. This means that about half the time the motor will run the wrong way and put stress on the reduction gears which eventually fail.
I was frustrated with this because the Nell toy is one of the coolest parts of the machine so I decided to design a direct drop in replacement to fix this. My requirements were that the Nell toy unit that would:
1) always run the correct direction
2) reverse at the end of travel (save Nell or “It’s Curtains!”)
3) not run past the end of travel so that no undue stress is put onto the mechanism.
4) not require any rewiring or other complex electronic work, just plug and play!
To use this new system, the old Nell motor is removed and a new one is put in its place using the holes that mounted the old motor. The original gear and pulley are replaced with a new 3D printed version that can be mounted on the shorter shaft of the new motor. A new driver board with all of the onboard electronics is screwed to the bottom of the playfield in place of the original board and plugged into the native driver board plug (no rewiring). Nell needs to be slid to the far end away from the saw blade and you are ready to go!
Design, testing and manufacturing (Eagle design, custom etching, CNC drill pattern etc) has taken a lot of time so I made three boards since I was set up for production. One is in my machine and has been working great for a few weeks and the other two I’m offering up for sale to the first two Pinsiders who reach out to me via a message on Pinside. The cost for the board and 3D printed parts is $80 and I’ll ship via USPS Priority mail which is $8 for the small flat rate box for the continental US, I'm not sure about Hawaii or Alaska (Total of $88).
I've included photos down below of:
-The driver board mounted under the playfield.
-The motor with mount and printed gear/pulley unit.
-The two units that are for sale and ready to ship.
Here is a youtube video of the unit in action! First I show what happens when Nell is not rescued, note that the log moves at exactly the right speed to just reach the saw blade when "It's Curtains!" Second I show a Nell save. In each case the log moves quickly and smoothly back to it's starting point.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

PM sent.

#733 1 year ago

I'm gearing up to make a couple of more boards for Pinsiders, is there anyone else who wants one of these while I've got all of the stuff out for making them? Just PM me.

2 weeks later
#734 1 year ago

PM Sent. Thanks!

#735 1 year ago

I received my Nell upgrade kit and was pleasantly surprised on the quality of the kit and attention to detail provided. Don't hesitate ordering this top-notch kit.

#736 1 year ago

And now here's something we hope you really like...

(Sorry, just had to do that.)

I'm funding a big project and need to let some things go. I have an NOS R&B Playfield that I would like to sell. This seems like the right channel to drum up interest. $500 USD. Please send me a PM if you would like pictures.

End of plug...

Added 136 days ago:

sold playfield

#737 1 year ago

Thanks Steve, making these boards is a labor of love since they take a fair bit of time I don't make much on them. I just want to get these great tables back up and running better than they were when they were first released!

#738 1 year ago

I am having a couple of issues with my R&B. Many times throughout a game (not all the time), hitting my left flipper trips the center hat target and the right flipper activates the lower hat target. Causing hundreds of “wrong hat” callouts.

My lion is no longer lifting up on hat trick. It was fully working, then seemed partially working, now not at all.
I have continuity at both sides of the molex set coming from the coil. Coil went bad ? It still moves freely by hand.

#739 1 year ago

oh yeah, also worth mentioning. My right flipper lacks strength at some points in the game. Almost always when the ball comes out of the left scoop/vuk, if I try to hammer the ball with the right flipper it only goes up half way and barely projects the ball. In one other instance (IIRC), if it comes around the orbit, counterclockwise to the right flipper, it doesn't fire with authority.

If I cradle the ball, I can hit both ramps from the right flipper.

#740 1 year ago
Quoted from scottacus:

Hello Poetry Pals! I bought a Rocky and Bullwinkle machine a couple of months ago and the Nell motor unit was not working so I tried fixing my motor but a previous owner had already already attempted this to no avail. I then bought a replacement motor from Marco for $64. Unfortunately this motor didn’t have enough torque to drive Nell with the original return spring so sometimes Nell moved towards the saw blade and sometimes Nell moved away from it.
In the original design the Data East designers chose to use an AC asynchronous motor that was geared down to 4RPM to drive the log and saw blade. Asynchronous motors (like the kind in your microwave turntable) will run either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the starting position. This means that about half the time the motor will run the wrong way and put stress on the reduction gears which eventually fail.
I was frustrated with this because the Nell toy is one of the coolest parts of the machine so I decided to design a direct drop in replacement to fix this. My requirements were that the Nell toy unit that would:
1) always run the correct direction
2) reverse at the end of travel (save Nell or “It’s Curtains!”)
3) not run past the end of travel so that no undue stress is put onto the mechanism.
4) not require any rewiring or other complex electronic work, just plug and play!
To use this new system, the old Nell motor is removed and a new one is put in its place using the holes that mounted the old motor. The original gear and pulley are replaced with a new 3D printed version that can be mounted on the shorter shaft of the new motor. A new driver board with all of the onboard electronics is screwed to the bottom of the playfield in place of the original board and plugged into the native driver board plug (no rewiring). Nell needs to be slid to the far end away from the saw blade and you are ready to go!
Design, testing and manufacturing (Eagle design, custom etching, CNC drill pattern etc) has taken a lot of time so I made three boards since I was set up for production. One is in my machine and has been working great for a few weeks and the other two I’m offering up for sale to the first two Pinsiders who reach out to me via a message on Pinside. The cost for the board and 3D printed parts is $80 and I’ll ship via USPS Priority mail which is $8 for the small flat rate box for the continental US, I'm not sure about Hawaii or Alaska (Total of $88).
I've included photos down below of:
-The driver board mounted under the playfield.
-The motor with mount and printed gear/pulley unit.
-The two units that are for sale and ready to ship.
Here is a youtube video of the unit in action! First I show what happens when Nell is not rescued, note that the log moves at exactly the right speed to just reach the saw blade when "It's Curtains!" Second I show a Nell save. In each case the log moves quickly and smoothly back to it's starting point.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Installed tonight. It is awesome. Finally Save Nell works the way it should! Quality kit and I highly recommend.

1 week later
#741 1 year ago

Can someone take a picture of their left lower orbit switch wiring? I have spent hours cleaning and rebuilding this poor machine back to health (and troubleshooting), only to find the switch for the gate (which is needed for the playfield arm to activate) was literally taped on. So I have no idea which wires need to go where for the new switch. Thank you!

#742 1 year ago

Here is a photo of the switch for the orbit, hope this is what you are looking for.

20191030_131023 (resized).jpg
#743 1 year ago

Here are a couple of photos of the new Nell Motor Board with the better buck converter. This unit hangs from the bottom of the playfield so that the volt and amp readings can be seen from the coin door.

20191030_062300 (resized).jpg20191029_192149 (resized).jpg
#744 1 year ago

Has anyone found a source for the correct short rubber bungee cord that is used to hold up the playfield? Still looking for one of those.

#745 12 months ago

Is anyone aware of repro cabs being offered for Rocky and Bullwinkle anywhere? Virtuapin said he can copy one, but I'd have to mail him mine.
Thanks!

#746 11 months ago

I am local to virtuapin. what would they need to do? is it something they could come over and just measure?

#747 11 months ago

More of a question for Virtuapin - guessing they would need a cab emptied of the playfield assembly, etc; in order to copy it and make templates.

#748 11 months ago

find out and let me know. if it's easy I might be able to let them come over and measure mine. if I would have to gut the game I may not be able to do that.

3 weeks later
#749 11 months ago

I am thinking of doing a little cab repair and touch up on my R&B. Is there a standard blue paint code that someone can make me aware of?

#750 11 months ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

I am thinking of doing a little cab repair and touch up on my R&B. Is there a standard blue paint code that someone can make me aware of?

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