(Topic ID: 66097)

TFTC Woes, Help!

By Irishbastard

10 years ago


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  • 55 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by eabundy
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 10 years ago

OK, My Tftc flaked out a month or so ago, it had been doing some weird things prior. I was downstairs one day and my wife asked if I smelled something burning, I quickly looked around to see which game had toasted now and saw Tftc's dmd was off. I opened her up and noticed a blown fuse on the PS, I forget why but I swapped in a new Rottendog PS and she fired up but the scoop coil was stuck on. So I pulled the PPB and CPU boards, I ended up replacing the following: Q5, Q4, Q3 on PPB pcb (One was replaced by accident on my part, the others tested a short on one leg); Q39, Q41, Q42, Q31, Q32, Q33, Q34; Scoop coil diode. I powered up and the scoop coil was fine, but the drop target coil locked on, replaced its diode, no change...its corresponding Tip 122 started to heat up fast. Shut down, pulled CPU pcb, everything tested GOOD, pulled PPB Q5, Q3, and Q2 all test Shorted on right leg???? I also checked everywhere for a short to ground, can't find anything.

What the hell am I missing?

Thank You in advance!

#3 10 years ago

Thank You but I saw that and checked, mine has the correct DC relay..

#4 10 years ago

Anybody?

#5 10 years ago

Still at a loss

3 months later
#6 10 years ago

Ok....Just looked at this again today. F8 on PPB is blown and Q5, Q3, and Q2 are toast (short one leg), I also found a bad tranny on the cpu (forget which one but replaced it)....Before I replace the trannys that test bad on PPB and F8 and promptly blow them all again on power up, what else should I be looking at?? Coils test good along with diodes on coils..

#8 10 years ago

OK...Just checked all voltages on RD PS...All close to what they are rated... Pulled PPB checked every diode, resistor, BR, etc...All checked within range (R20 (Small ceramic resistor) would not test, was all over the place), relay is DC and reads 651ohms. BUT>>>> With PPB board removed from machine, ONLY Q3 reads BAD (.185 one leg, dead short other leg), Q5 and Q2 test GOOD.... SOO... What does this mean???

#10 10 years ago

Game boots fine, with new fuse and replaced trannies one or two coils lock on and corresponding trannies heat up fast.

#11 10 years ago

OK.....Replaced F8 fuse and Q3 and went through pf wiring...Fixed a few possible shorts.. Game is working, but...Q39 is very hot so I shut down..

Weird...Q39 looks like its the "Knocker" which is not connected because back when I originally bought this pin the tranny for Q39 was missing and the knocker had one wire off, So I replaced the tranny and reconnected the knocker after installing a new knocker coil. The tranny then got so hot it fell out of the CPU pcb. So there is another new tranny in Q39 but the knocker is NOT connected.

#13 10 years ago

Just going to pull that one and leave it out and see how that goes..

#15 10 years ago

Yup, checked all predrivers and they were in spec Thank You, and good luck! I did repair my Space Shuttle this week that has been down since July....baby steps

#16 10 years ago

OK...I think I figured something out. The drop target reset mech gets stuck down after it resets, which frys Q5 Tip36c a d locks the shooter coil on. I found a small c-clip missing on the smaller shaft which allowed it to slide. I replaced the clip and the coil sleeve. Replaced Q5 and went through coil test.....right after drop target coil test I heard the shooter coil lock on...shut down and found the dam drop target reset rail stuck again and Q5 blew....wtf, really...

Adjusted the drop target reset bar, no longer binds. Replaced Q5 AGAIN..replaced coil sleeve on shooter as well. Powered up, went through all coils (skipping drop targets)...All perfect. Went back to drop target...As soon as it tests (and did not bind up) shooter coil locks on and Q freakin 5 blows.... Soooo.....Why is the drop target coil doing this?? The original issue was caused by the drop target or shooter I believe.

#17 10 years ago

Anyone have any ideas?

#20 10 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

What was the resistance of the coils in question when you tested them? When you say "shooter coil", you meant shooter lane coil correct?

Shooter lane coil, yes...Coils resistance tests fine...replaced coil diodes (in correct orientation).... Its just weird that everything seems fine until the drop target coil fires, then BAM, shooter locked on and Q5 smoked... Will look into that guide info again.. Thanks guys!

#22 10 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I know you are ignoring my coil question but let's move past that point. I am still willing to help you. When you test a predriver OR a main tip102 transistor, they quite often test good, but are in fact bad. If you can't figure out this problem, I would replace all the pre-drive transistors and main drive transistors in the questionable circuits, even if they are testing as good. Shooter lane, drop targets, as well as the others (scoop, ect, ect). Transistors are cheap and you should be replacing all pre-drivers in any circuit that had any component(s) fail as a steadfast rule.
I can tell you that I have personally found over 100 transistors that tested good but were toast. I saved some if you want to see a few for reference/testing purposes.

Um...I apologize if you thought I was "ignoring" your coil question, I was not. I read it as I was brushing my teeth this am and read it as; "Did the coils test bad?".... My fault, no intentional "ignoring" meant. So No, they were not questionable, I'm just checking every freakin part involved to make sure its not something stupid. I actually replaced most of the driver, predriver, etc as I figured maybe one was testing good but was really bad. I'm going to run through that guide info and go from there. Then after replacing ( "shotgunning" at this point) more components and watching the coil lock on again, swear profusely, maybe throw some stuff, then take up collecting small tea cups from the Elizabethan era .

I do appreciate you help, and sorry again for the misunderstanding!

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#25 10 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

You know, if you don't fix this thing, you are going to have to put it up for sale with the statement "It's probably just a fuse"
(now ducking from flying tea cups)

Hahaha...Good idea, lol

Quoted from Billy16:

This won't help with your short, but my drop target mech is also missing one of the clips on the small shaft. After replacing a drop target, I'm guessing the tech left it off so it would be easier to replace the next broken drop target (which it is). What he did to keep the small shaft from sliding was to wrap a zip tie around the shaft on the end with the missing clip and looped it around the drop target frame, pulling it tight . This does keep the small shaft from moving--so far I don't see any down side to this mod. It sure is easier to cut the zip tie than to try and remove and replace that tiny clip.

Thanks, but I actually salvaged a new clip from a spare bill transporter from a slot machine.

5 months later
#26 9 years ago

Ok....this is still collecting dust, want to play so Tftc sooo...where should I start on this cursed machine?

#29 9 years ago

Thanks guys, going to dig back into this, hope I don't blow days/weeks/months again on it!

5 months later
#30 9 years ago

OK, just dove back into this pig.... Sooo, Q2, Q3, and Q5 on PPB pcb test bad, and fuse F8 is blown. Pulled all coil connectors from cpu, powered up. Game powers up, boots fine. Check all voltages, Good...Power down game. Pull J8 plug on PPB pcb, Q2 and Q3 test Good! Plug J8 back in and desolder Ball Launch coil, Q2 and Q3 test GOOD (Q5 is just toast I think).....Sooo, I pull the diode off the coil, replace it..nope, try it reversed..nope... Coil tests good. All Tip's test Good on cpu with quick test.

So, do I have a short?? I followed the wires from that coil as far as I can and see nothing.

1 month later
#32 9 years ago

Well...Finally got to this...Swapped out RD PS with original (replaced fuses on Original PS), replaced Q5 on PPB, pulled cpu and checked all coil trannys and related 7408's, tested good. Disconnected drop target and shooter coils...Fired her up and heard another coil lock, found coil for hole behind tombstone locked (VUK), checked coil value and found 2.4 ohms (090-5023-00 coil), tested coil diode..good. Game plays fine now with that coil out. I have nothing to compare that coil reading to, so am assuming its out of value and bad (Coil wrapper did fall off in my hand). Ordered new coil, will hope it was that and I just missed it like ann idiot this whole time.....Fingers crossed.

Thanks again Eric!

Just found that coil should be 2.2ohms...Hmmm, well, will swap it out and see when the new one arrives, will prob still be locked.

#34 9 years ago

New coil installed, both trannys for said coil replaced.....Power up....Left VUK locks on....F this F'n pin!

7 months later
#36 8 years ago

This has been solved.....

Dropped this off with an expert. Appears that I had repaired the original issue and in doing so blew out trace with my crappy solder sucker and never noticed, so it was doomed after that point. A new set of eyes solved the issue. A public Thank You to Allan Davidson!

Case Closed

1 week later
#39 8 years ago
Quoted from eabundy:

Glad I was correct with the jumped solder pad on the driver Congrats on the fix.

Actually Eric it was missing trace, a new trace line was installed for the one I damaged. The coil for the front Vuk was also replaced with a less strong one in order to reduce a reoccurrence of the original issue. I am also planning on purchasing a desolder station in order to avoid a future incident.
Thanks

8 months later
#40 7 years ago

Ok.....Sooooo, my TFTC has been working fine since it was repaired approx 9 months ago. A few weeks ago my wife was in the basement with the games on and she smelled burning....So low and behold, it was TFTC... (Just had lighting on power up)

Found a melted shooter coil, blow F8 and F5 fuses and the PS was reading less than 2v on +5v and +12v and -24v on the -12v. Replaced PS with a RD and it powered up fine. Just replaced the coil and shooter coil locks on. Should I dig into this again and drop the dam thing off at AD's house again?

#42 7 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

Right on power up the coil locks on, or after it boots?

Instantly on power up

#45 7 years ago
Quoted from eabundy:

Blown transistor, easy fix.

That's what I would assume in this situation, but her and I have a past.... Starting to feel like Groundhog Day to me..

#47 7 years ago
Quoted from eabundy:

You probably had a weak power supply, got some sort of voltage spike and that took it out. Most likely same cause of all the problems you had earlier. Replacing the power supply should help.

Sounds like that would make sense.. Guess it did not get a good rebuild in 07' lol

tmp_12933-20160801_103156706586102.jpgtmp_12933-20160801_103156706586102.jpg

#49 7 years ago

Ok, pulled board, tested Q44 along with Q36 (shooter coil trannys), then both rows of transistors and drivers... All are in spec, all reading similar. Also put one lead to tab of each tranny and ground, no shorts..

Found bad Q5 on PPB, replaced

Played two games, "appears" fine

#52 7 years ago
Quoted from eabundy:

I meant to tell you to also test the PPB board, along with reflowing solder there, just my A.D.D didn't co-operate.

Thanks Eric, no need to reflow, I reflowed EVERY solder point on this thing last time.

Let's see if she behaves now that the PS is replaced, fingers crossed.

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