(Topic ID: 181617)

TFTC problems need help please

By Antennaejim

7 years ago


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TftC Trough Lock 3 (resized).JPG
TftC Trough Lock 2 (resized).JPG
TftC Trough Lock 1 (resized).JPG
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#1 7 years ago

I just got a TAles from the crypt this week it has plenty of issues to iron out to get it up and running unfortunately. The tombstone motor is not working it gets power but runs intermittently. The main ball trough has the 6 balls missing issue and let's more than one ball into the vuk at a time the balls don't sit directly above each microswitch as I believe the should. I'm not sure if this is the ball stop solinoid mech adjustment or what here. The laser kicker is not working at all as well as the knocker. The indicator light for the laser kick is also not working. The entire flasher system is not working and I have turned it on in the diagnostic settings as well. I'm just looking for a little help to point me in the right direction. When I hit an eyeball target I hear the ball stop solenoid fire under the apron is that suppose to happen? I checked all of the fuses throughout the machine and they are all good full continuity in all. I can't wait to have this thing working correct. Thanks in advance.

IMG_3031 (resized).JPGIMG_3031 (resized).JPG
IMG_3030 (resized).JPGIMG_3030 (resized).JPG

#2 7 years ago

There are too many directions to point you in. Like looking at a plate of spaghetti and asking how to find the end of one.

Since the game is new to you, treat it like a basket case you just assembled from unknown condition parts (because basically that is what it is).

You need a digital or physical copy of the manual.

Start with the fuses. Identify every fuse. Remove each one, one at a time, returning the fuse to the clips after checking each one. Verify the value/rating etched into the metal end cap matches the designation on a sticker or placard near the fuse or the info in the manual.

Perform a continuity "beep" test on each one. Once verified and tested, return to the clips. DE fuse clips are a weak link in the system and usually one or two will snap off with the fuse going in or out.

Move on to the rectifiers and power supply.

Disconnect all connectors except the two square ones, CN1 and CN2, and the GI connector in the top right corner (the GI will confirm if the game is switched ON or OFF.

Now work your way around the board's output headers with a voltmeter confirming the correct voltages are being generated. Once all are proven good, repeat the same procedure with the PPB and finally the CPU.

These games are starting to get old enough to require solder work under some connectors, so you might want to pull the boards as you have all the connectors pulled anyway and see if any are starting to show cracks and need touchup.

THEN you are ready to start actual troubleshooting.

#3 7 years ago

I have done all the fuse pulling and continuity checks already all is good there. It has a new rottendog power board and all is well there. I had the backboard off for transport and all of the connectors and pins looked to be in good order before I plugged them all back in before I remove every board and check all of the components I would like to troubleshoot the machine or am looking for more specific direction for search of the listed issues

#4 7 years ago

I can play the game in free play the balls just keep firing into the playfield sometimes one at a time or 2 at a time. it's quite annoying. The DMD and sound work perfectly fine. The switch test and lamp test all show to be good as well. However solenoids fire off during the flasher test and I have no flashers working at all and they are all brand new LEDs.

#5 7 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

balls just keep firing into the playfield

Start with your ball trough switches - one or more isn't working so the game thinks balls are missing and keeps kicking them into play.

LTG : )

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Start with your ball trough switches - one or more isn't working so the game thinks balls are missing and keeps kicking them into play.
LTG : )

Each ball trough switch tests out fine. The balls do not sit directly on top of the switches as I have stated above. The solenoid that blocks the balls from entering the vuk may be the culprit of this as I I stated when the eyeball targets are hit it fires off allowing the ball trogh to move again shooting 2 balls at a time etc. also the activating switch for the vuk in the main shooter is loopy but checks out just fine in the switch diagnostics. I don't know how or where to begin with the ball trough since the micro switches each check out fine individually. The trough seems to always allow one ball to be sitting in the vuk almost all of the time as well and is not always shooting it up right away as it should I have adjusted the switch here as well and the switch diagnostics do not detect any issues

#7 7 years ago

Ah, background is important.

So if you have all 6 balls out of the game, and enter switch test, you see 6 open switches in the trough? Then if you drop a ball into the outhole one at a time, the trough switches all transition until 6 balls in equals 6 trough switches closed?

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Ah, background is important.
So if you have all 6 balls out of the game, and enter switch test, you see 6 open switches in the trough? Then if you drop a ball into the outhole one at a time, the trough switches all transition until 6 balls in equals 6 trough switches closed?

Yes correct.but the balls are not directly above the switches when at rest they are slightly forward enough to where some do not register. Is there a way to adjust the mechanism that blocks the balls from going into the vuk kicker so they rest in proper position?

#9 7 years ago

I have never had to mess with mine:

TftC Trough Lock 1 (resized).JPGTftC Trough Lock 1 (resized).JPG

TftC Trough Lock 2 (resized).JPGTftC Trough Lock 2 (resized).JPG

TftC Trough Lock 3 (resized).JPGTftC Trough Lock 3 (resized).JPG

Any help?

#10 7 years ago

Thank you for the pics I did take the apron off and mine is the same it must be something not visible from the top. I can hear it firing off every time I hit any of the eyeball targets. I'm guessing this is not suppose to happen?

#11 7 years ago

Q4 on the PPB is the only bad component on the PPB so I will order a tip36c tomorrow. Is it possible that the relay is bad as well since I don't have any flashers working at all? I reflowed every connector and the relay points on the board for good connections. I did find a few switches now that are bad on the playfield as well I'm guessing they are going to be the drivers I will be replacing on the CPU when I take it out this week and check all of its components as well and yes I will replace the 122s and the transistor in front of each one needed connected to the previous bad tip36c in line.

#12 7 years ago

Does anyone have any pics of their left and right flipper assembly under the playfield. Someone twisted both wires together in my eos switch and I would like to correct that

#13 7 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Someone twisted both wires together in my eos switch and I would like to correct that

Not rocket science. EOS switch has two leaf blades. One wire to one side, the other wire to the other side. Doesn't matter which. The EOS just shorts the two wires together.

No diode on them

LTG : )

#14 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not rocket science. EOS switch has two leaf blades. One wire to one side, the other wire to the other side. Doesn't matter which. The EOS just shorts the two wires together.
No diode on them
LTG : )

#15 7 years ago

Previous owner twisted them together and soldered them to one point of contact on the eos rendering the separation useless. I'm grasping at straws here this project is overly frustrating I think too many people have tried to fix this before I got it and it is haunted with issues I fear a complete rebuild from the ground up!

#16 7 years ago

It's amazing what just replacing most of the connectors with new moles on the CPU can do. I've got most of the issues resolved. I'm only left with a non working knocker that shows voltage on the correct side and continuity from the wire from the solenoid back to the PPB board. The trough switches are a while other animal. I replaced all 7 of the switches. The sux rollers I got at radio shack and the 7th at the trough vuk I got at Marco. All of the switches require too much pressure to work properly. How frustrating. Feels like they need worked in a bit but I don't know if that is possible on a new microswitch! The balls don't seem heavy enough to depress them.

3 months later
#17 6 years ago

Antennaejim- I've been working on a TFTC machine that is in really, really good shape. The biggest issue it had when I stripped it down was that someone had done a really half assed work around on the power supply by adding an arcade cab supply and not replacing the board (it was some serious frankenstein business). I have the Rottendog replacement power board, but, unfortunately when we put the first one (we're on our second now), it immediately burned out a component. It looks as though there was a place for resistors to be added, but no instructions came with the board. I'm not looking to burn out the second one by turning it on- got any tips? I'm not finding much via google. Thanks!

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from Nix:

Antennaejim- I've been working on a TFTC machine that is in really, really good shape. The biggest issue it had when I stripped it down was that someone had done a really half assed work around on the power supply by adding an arcade cab supply and not replacing the board (it was some serious frankenstein business). I have the Rottendog replacement power board, but, unfortunately when we put the first one (we're on our second now), it immediately burned out a component. It looks as though there was a place for resistors to be added, but no instructions came with the board. I'm not looking to burn out the second one by turning it on- got any tips? I'm not finding much via google. Thanks!

Mine also had a rottendog that came with it when I acquired the machine and it works well so far no issues!

#19 6 years ago

No resistors need to be added to any new boards as you mention. It sounds like somebody did a number on customizing your machine I would grab the schematics from your manual and reverse engineeer any wiring coming to and from your supply board before plugging anything in again.

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