(Topic ID: 55059)

TFTC OWNERS: "Fang Club" - "The MORGUE, the merrier!"

By E_N_3

10 years ago


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  • 5,004 posts
  • 406 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by FatPanda
  • Topic is favorited by 164 Pinsiders

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#2643 6 years ago

My tftc has a broken center drop target. What’s the best way to replace it, looks pretty tight in there? Thx

#2648 6 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Take the entire bank off of the playfield. Take it apart piece by piece making note of where you removed them and reassemble after replacing the center target. Reverse engineering is the best way to learn how to fix everything

This was much easier than I thought, no need to disassemble anything.

To remove target: Retract the targets, lift the play field, loosen two screws on the end of the metal housing. get a pair of needle nose locking pliers, remove the old spring from the target using the pliers, remove spring from bracket by hand, slide target out

To install new target: slide target in from the top, use the needle nose pliers to feed spring into the new target, secure other end of the spring into metal bracket. Retighten the two screws securing the metal bracket.

This all took me about 3 mins.

#2650 6 years ago

I’m looking for the Chadh version roms, anyone know where to get it or can burn it for me? Is an updated display rom needed too? Thx

Quoted from GRB1959:

How do I test the shaker in my TFTC? Is there an adjustment setting for the shaker in the adjustments settings from the coin door?
The manual shows that game adjustment #48 is to turn the shaker ON/OFF, however in game adjustments on my TFTC adjustment #48 displays 'Proprietary'. I am running Chad H's version 6.0 ROMs.
I have a shaker in my TFTC, but honestly I don't recall it ever shaking.
Gord

You might be able to do a coil test and see if it fires.

#2655 6 years ago

Spent the day shopping out and LEDing my game. One of the easier games to shop. Took me about 6 hours, very dirty, so much better now. Just waiting for a cliffy and new game roms. Tomorrow I'll I'll go after some of the coil sleeves.

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#2657 6 years ago

Game is all done, including eyeball ramp light covers, man we're those bulbs ugly to look at. Backboard light,side mirrors, trough light, pop bumper flasher strip mod and undercabinet lights all in.

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1 week later
#2669 6 years ago

We need a color dmd for this game.

#2671 6 years ago

Oh, wow! I had been looking at the lcd displays only as that’s what I like. Didn’t even bother to look at the led version. Is there any reason why they don’t have an lcd version?

#2674 6 years ago

Pulled the trigger on an led. Lcd requires permanent modification to speaker panel and isn’t recommended by colordmd.

#2680 6 years ago

Anyone upgrade the speakers on their game with good results?

#2682 6 years ago

Look what came in the mail today....

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#2684 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Enjoy! Take care to put the ROMs in correctly. Remember that the notch on the side dictates orientation of the ROM chip.

Yep, done it plenty of times. Only bent legs a couple of times

Thanks for all your hard work on this....if I can ever help you out, please don't hesitate to ask.

#2685 6 years ago

Anyone running a color dmd with the 4.0 code? Any issues since display from the colordmd is v3.0?

#2700 6 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Nice job! Good coloring on the LEDs and I like the mirror blades!

Thx. I used cool whites in all the gi and inserts. Undercab lighting is pulled for now, too much power draw I think, blowing f7. Color dmd arrived today, going in tomorrow. Still waiting on a cliffy for the scoop.

#2711 6 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

You're welcome. I'm glad it's working out well for you! I was really surprised how much airtime the ball was getting when I first got my game.

I might be interested in this. Where can I see the air ball deflector to order?

Thx

#2713 6 years ago

Got my color dmd installed, my first led dmd. It’s not bad, but I much prefer the lcd with hires mode as I like the cartoonish look. Huge improvement over the stock dmd.

#2718 6 years ago

I’ve owned this game for just a few weeks, but can’t believe how much I like it. I thought it would be out the door quickly and actually had it sold, but I pulled back as I could feel regret building. I love the modes and the ramp shots, which aren’t that easy, it’s a tough game to progress. I also feel a bit attached to the game with all the work I’ve done to it and it’s playing really well. I tore the top down, replaced most coil sleeves, new rubber, adjusted switches, full led including flashers, chads code, color dmd, side mirrors, undercab lights, soon ocd board, etc. only thing I don’t care for is the sound, even with external sub, but it’s typical for de games I think. I thought Baywach was great, this is better.

#2728 6 years ago

Could be your battery holder is not making good connection with the board. You’d have to take the board out and resolder the connections on the back. You could test for continuity between the terminals on the holder and the solder points on the back. If you have continuity, it’s not the holder.

Alternatively, You could opt to go with nvram, $10 from one of the suppliers here on pinside I believe. I think it’s plug in for tftc.

#2732 6 years ago

Pricing on this game has really been moving up...not even that nice...

ebay.com link: 0

#2735 6 years ago
Quoted from lowga:

GASP!!! What is this magic you speak of? What's next--flying cars!!?? This opens several new questions:
1.) How do I get it? Web link if you have it.
2.) Are they also available for my Creature from the Black Lagoon and South Park?
THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH! Best news I've heard in a long time.

Contact pinsiders barakandl, he sells them. You can get them for any game, but for bw, the chips are soldered on. Sega is plug and play.

2 weeks later
3 weeks later
#2787 6 years ago
Quoted from Spyk:

Well good news bad news.
Good news is I was able to fix the issues. No more blowing fuses or transistors.
Bad news is my vuk for the tomb stone wants to non stop fire when I start the game and just work when it wants to after starting a game. Any direction here would be appreciated. Seems to be the only issue after this but I'm finding once you fix one issue another seems to pop up....

First place I’d start is the vuk switch. Sounds like it’s bad.

#2790 6 years ago

Leaf switch I believe, the gap is likely too small.

#2791 6 years ago

Looking for a topper if anyone has one they want to sell.

1 month later
#2840 5 years ago

Flashers are the larger sockets under the playfield, typically will have an orange wire and a black wire on them. Gi are the lights that are on all the time, you’ll typically find them around the perimeter of the game and under the sling shots. Contact pinstadium if you aren’t sure which clip goes on which flasher lug. For gi, it may not matter, but not sure how he wired it.

#2842 5 years ago
Quoted from ImNotNorm:

Thanks lermods. Scott at pinstadium and a TFTC owner are going to help me out regarding that.
Another question I have that arises after the install is about the service outlet in the cabinet. It's constantly active...even when the pinball is turned off. I'm wondering about installing a remote power outlet then I don't have to constantly plug and unplug things.
Any suggestions for a remote power supply / outlet??

what do you want to run off the outlet? that outlet in the game is always hot so you can plug a soldering iron in and work on the game when it's off. You can buy a 12v power supply on ebay for less than $10.

#2844 5 years ago

why do you want to plug the stadium lights into the service outlet? I am not familiar with their product, but I cannot believe that pinstadium lights are wired to connect to the service outlet. They should be wired into the game so when the game is off, the lights are off.

4 months later
#3149 5 years ago

I may be in the minrotiy, but I didnt like the led in my game and don't like the dots look overall. I typically buy the LCD and set it to hires as I like the cartoonish look of the screens. I saw a tftc at Pintastic with an LCD and really liked it, I think it was Gabe's. I went with led because of the ease of the install, but if I had to do it again, I'd get the LCD and just deal with any install issues.

#3151 5 years ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

I found upres smoothing really fake-y on games I had it in like TZ. I was much happier with the LED. So to each their own.

Tz is one of the worst games for a color dmd as there aren't many animations. In fact, black and white looks the best for tz imo. It's a personal choice, no right or wrong.

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