Love my TFTC.

Replaced all DE metal posts with B/W plastic star posts
Changed pop bumper caps to green
Rebuilt both VUKs
Full shop job teardown, clean, polish
LEDs throughout, color-matched to inserts
Color changers on the Jackpot inserts and the Skull Crackin'
John Kassir signature on custom laminated apron cards
Clear pincab protectors
I have a restored topper, but ceiling is too low in current house

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37999418@N04/sets/72157628068961741/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37999418@N04/sets/72157626758838941/

Maybe hoping for a ChadH code update? More voice callouts?

RussMyers

I'll disagree with you about the original backglass art. That's from the HBO show promo art.

That's why I really prefer (and bought) the alternate translite for my TFTC. Uses all EC art (except for the Cryptkeeper, which is the TV Series puppet).

The playfield art? Spot-on EC.

I have a large format TFTC/EC history coffee table book, and on the last page it lists "the ultimate TFTC collectible".

A TFTC pinball machine, natch.

RM

I do that for all my DE games, and recommend that to others.

RM

Try one of my earlier posts in this thread.

RM

Also here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37999418@N04/sets/72157629437568588/

RM

I will try to get some pics of this for you, but obviously this is an area on your own machine that need attention.

Can you take some pics of your own game so we can see what you're dealing with?

RussMyers

Did you powdercoat your ball guides?

If yes, PICS!!!

RM

I fully LEDed my TFTC and couldn't be happier.

Haven't needed any foam in the crypt, but no reason that wouldn't work.

The cliffy protector can make the scoop shot slightly tighter, but the real issue is that the position of the scoop hole was off by 1/16" in the CAD file, as said by the designer, so it's a harder shot than intended. It's easiest from the upper right flipper which you feed from a left orbit or shot into the VUKs.

RM

Go here:

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

Click on "Data East" on the left side.

RM

Just installed the full CPR TFTC plastics set. Absolutely gorgeous.

Get them while you can.

Also added Creature Feature flipper toppers from Laseriffic.

RussMyers

IMG_5525.JPG

IMG_5526.JPG

IMG_5531-706.JPG

It's a desktop standee.

You put the pieces together using the slots and it stands there and looks cool.

RM

Does this help?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/37999418@N04/sets/72157628068961741/

RM

Nice !!

Those are hard to come by.

RussMyers

Be certain to tighten all of the screws/bolts associated with the DE playfield support system:

The end support posts
The triangular sliding brackets on the underside of the playfield
The support rails bolted through the cabinet

They often loosen up, and that or letting the playfield tilt unevenly can drop it off the rails and into the bottom of the cab, usually smashing the Deger flipper board on the left side.

RM

The original TFTC door handle (not the head part) was a commercial metal door handle (looks like a handle for a screen door IMO) that was sourced by DE at time of manufacture.

It is "possible" with a lot of searching, to find another one that fits the bill as far as shape, size, etc.

That would be a worthy search, but not easy.

The internal rotating latch is a challenge, but my modding the switch, that could be replaced as well.

RussMyers

I believe if the 12v to the sound board is flaky, too low or a bad connector or similar, the sound board will reboot over and over causing the repeating sound loop.

RussM

TFTC needs a DE apron with the hole on the left side for the Kickback plunger. Or make a new hole.

Just a reminder.

RussM

I really don't recommend leaving the bare metal post for the balls to bang into.

Cover the metal post with a segment of clear (or colored; they do some colors) plastic air hose used for fishtanks. It's thin and a tight fit over the post but prevents direct contact to the metal. Much smaller than the post rubbers. Also cheap as hell.

RussM

That looks good.

RM