(Topic ID: 55059)

TFTC OWNERS: "Fang Club" - "The MORGUE, the merrier!"

By E_N_3

10 years ago


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  • 5,004 posts
  • 406 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by FatPanda
  • Topic is favorited by 164 Pinsiders

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There are 5,004 posts in this topic. You are on page 93 of 101.
#4601 11 months ago

I don't think it has a knocker

#4602 11 months ago

The knocker is supposedly be on the left side of the 8 inches speaker and hitting the wood transversal piece . But i switch mine on the right side wall of the cabinet and hitting down to a piece of hard wood....knock much better and harder

#4603 11 months ago
Quoted from PanzerKraken:

I don't think it has a knocker

Quoted from Pommy:

The knocker is supposedly be on the left side of the 8 inches speaker and hitting the wood transversal piece . But i switch mine on the right side wall of the cabinet and hitting down to a piece of hard wood....knock much better and harder

So there is one? Mine doesn't have one I don't think. The previous owner did some weird shit to the game. Things were removed or cut in order to "quiet" things down. I didn't notice any knocker so would like to get one if the game does indeed have one. But I can't find any evidence (screw holes) or any coils that would be a knocker.

A pic would be helpful to show location and a closeup of the wiring so that I can get one installed.

#4604 11 months ago

I have a knocker in mine. Located to the left of the sub.

IMG_20230514_113059653 (resized).jpgIMG_20230514_113059653 (resized).jpg
#4605 11 months ago
Quoted from Pommy:

The knocker is supposedly be on the left side of the 8 inches speaker and hitting the wood transversal piece . But i switch mine on the right side wall of the cabinet and hitting down to a piece of hard wood....knock much better and harder

Nice. Yeah mine is pretty quiet... I should make that adjustment.

Too bad it isn't used more in the code.. Maybe a knock after the door bell.. Or used in some creepy way for a mode.

#4606 11 months ago
Quoted from gregcube:

I have a knocker in mine. Located to the left of the sub.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the pic. The PO must have taken that coil for something else. Gotta get one to replace it. I did see cut purple and brown wires in my game. Much appreciated!

#4607 11 months ago
Quoted from koji:

Nice. Yeah mine is pretty quiet... I should make that adjustment.
Too bad it isn't used more in the code.. Maybe a knock after the door bell.. Or used in some creepy way for a mode.

Yeah ! That's why i move it. Now it's a real knocker hit ! And can't imagine a pinball without a knocker....i mean we are playing to beat the score and hear this marvelous kick sound...don't we ?

#4608 11 months ago

Swapped in a replacement DMD for now, it flickers but its not garbled. Getting a colorDMD this week. Finally after a month, it's playing again! Lots of route hacks to clear up, needed to do a bit of work to get the launcher to fit well and repainted (From Back Alley Creations).

Such a fun game! Chad code really addresses a lot of the games shortfalls. Can't wait to get the GI smoother board to eliminate Seizure Multiball.

Just a few other odds and ends, but it's almost there.

20230514_114435 (resized).jpg20230514_114435 (resized).jpg20230514_120834 (resized).jpg20230514_120834 (resized).jpg

#4609 11 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Can someone tell me where the knocker is in this game, or if it has one? I assume so, just can't find it.

The manual shows that the game does have a knocker assembly.
Brn wire 32 volts.
I would look to the bottom left side, just in back of cashbox cabinet wood wall separator.

#4610 11 months ago
Quoted from gregcube:

I have a knocker in mine. Located to the left of the sub.
[quoted image]

Mine is in the same location.

Gord

P1000763 (resized).JPGP1000763 (resized).JPG
P1000764 (resized).JPGP1000764 (resized).JPG

#4611 11 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Swapped in a replacement DMD for now, it flickers but its not garbled. Getting a colorDMD this week. Finally after a month, it's playing again! Lots of route hacks to clear up, needed to do a bit of work to get the launcher to fit well and repainted (From Back Alley Creations).
Such a fun game! Chad code really addresses a lot of the games shortfalls. Can't wait to get the GI smoother board to eliminate Seizure Multiball.
Just a few other odds and ends, but it's almost there.
[quoted image][quoted image]

When you say "GI Smoother board", do you mean an LED OCD board? I don't see a GI board available for DE, but they do have one for the inserts that I've considered adding to mine.

#4612 11 months ago
Quoted from cookpins:

When you say "GI Smoother board", do you mean an LED OCD board? I don't see a GI board available for DE, but they do have one for the inserts that I've considered adding to mine.

No, I mean the EnerGI Maestro Board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-gi-smoother-for-data-east

It's made by a pinsider and he only does runs when he has enough people sign up for them. The board takes the harsh on/off of the relay and smooths it out so it's not so stroby. It's all user adjustable, so you can adjust the brightness, the ramp up/down time, etc.

Must have for aby DE/Sega game imo.

He'll be doing a run soon and he says it's been slowing down, so I would sign up if you want one.

#4613 11 months ago

Signed up! Thanks for the info. I recall seeing this a while back but missed the last run.

#4614 11 months ago

Need some help. Got a Crypt that needs a lot to get it back in working condition. I can't tell from the manual what these wires go to as I think I'm missing a board? These are on the right side of the cabinet. Second picture is the boards on the left side. Other than reinstalling the on/off switch and plate, what's missing? Thanks!

missing (resized).jpgmissing (resized).jpgother side (resized).jpgother side (resized).jpg
#4615 11 months ago
Quoted from BSavage:

Need some help. Got a Crypt that needs a lot to get it back in working condition. I can't tell from the manual what these wires go to as I think I'm missing a board? These are on the right side of the cabinet. Second picture is the boards on the left side. Other than reinstalling the on/off switch and plate, what's missing? Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pretty sure those are not connected to anything. There's a printer mapped in the schematics that these might go to, which wouldn't apply here obviously.

The boards on the left side of the cabinet are your shaker motor board (left side) and your flipper board (right side), which have their respective connections accounted for.

And just saw that yout knocker is missing the coil.

And the fuse in F1 on your shaker motor board (right most fuse) isn't needed.

#4616 11 months ago

OK. Printer is probably right. Yes, there are several other things missing too like the MPU board. Just wanted to check before I started ordering.

Thanks!

Brian

#4617 11 months ago

hello to all of you TFTC fans! I always wondered if it was normal to hear a bit of speech....sound’s live "no'p" only when I put my TFTC on power. My pinball works great...but there's always that "no'p" that keeps coming back once a day...like the beginning of the phrase no pain no gain...your feedback would be appreciated. Thanks gang!

#4618 11 months ago
Quoted from Pommy:

hello to all of you TFTC fans! I always wondered if it was normal to hear a bit of speech....sound’s live "no'p" only when I put my TFTC on power. My pinball works great...but there's always that "no'p" that keeps coming back once a day...like the beginning of the phrase no pain no gain...your feedback would be appreciated. Thanks gang!

Yeah the audio seems to get clipped when set to freeplay. When on credit play, you hear "no payem no game"

#4619 11 months ago
Quoted from Pommy:

hello to all of you TFTC fans! I always wondered if it was normal to hear a bit of speech....sound’s live "no'p" only when I put my TFTC on power. My pinball works great...but there's always that "no'p" that keeps coming back once a day...like the beginning of the phrase no pain no gain...your feedback would be appreciated. Thanks gang!

Mine does this as well. Wasn't sure if it was normal or not, but the game works so I didn't really care. When I had my R&M, every time I powered it off, Rick would start yelling something before eventually the power cut out.

#4620 11 months ago

Thanks FatPanda and koji !! Case closed !! Have a nice week-end

2 weeks later
#4621 10 months ago

I put my game on free play and now my door prize mode always awards 30 million and only one door. How do I get it back to normal but still use Freeplay?

#4622 10 months ago
Quoted from MStem80:

I put my game on free play and now my door prize mode always awards 30 million and only one door. How do I get it back to normal but still use Freeplay?

Do you have the Tales From The Crypt v.4.00 ROM?

If so...

"If any tournament mode is active then door prize collects 30M and mode ends."

#4623 10 months ago

Is shooting the left ramp to advance the right ramp worth it? I haven't looked at the rules. I'm on Chad code.

Love this game btw. I've been playing it a ton over the last few weeks. Honeymoon phase? Sure, but I really love the layout, animations and callouts/SFX/music.

#4624 10 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Is shooting the left ramp to advance the right ramp worth it? I haven't looked at the rules. I'm on Chad code.
Love this game btw. I've been playing it a ton over the last few weeks. Honeymoon phase? Sure, but I really love the layout, animations and callouts/SFX/music.

*Sometimes* I guess it depends how difficult/safe the left ramp is for you. I usually like to keep 1 or two levels lit on the right side, so when you hit the ramp in Multiball.. *or* in Electric chair, you can get a fair value out of it.

I think it is the default (and a decent) setting that it resets to level 1 on each ball. In a way, play the organ can be quite a challenge to make it to and collect which is kind of fun.

_IF_ the code could be adjusted so that the frenzy timer would pause during the multiball animation sequence, that would be amazing and would add a lot of viability to keeping the right side stacked)... IMHO-

#4625 10 months ago
Quoted from koji:

*Sometimes* I guess it depends how difficult/safe the left ramp is for you. I usually like to keep 1 or two levels lit on the right side, so when you hit the ramp in Multiball.. *or* in Electric chair, you can get a fair value out of it.
I think it is the default (and a decent) setting that it resets to level 1 on each ball. In a way, play the organ can be quite a challenge to make it to and collect which is kind of fun.
_IF_ the code could be adjusted so that the frenzy timer would pause during the multiball animation sequence, that would be amazing and would add a lot of viability to keeping the right side stacked)... IMHO-

I can hit the ramp 60-70% of the time. If I'm in the groove, I can hit it 5 or 6x in a row. Just wondering without taking the glass off if hitting it 12x is worth it. I will focus on maxing out the right ramp one of these times just to see the modes, but was wondering if it was a viable scoring option in a typical game.

#4626 10 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I can hit the ramp 60-70% of the time. If I'm in the groove, I can hit it 5 or 6x in a row. Just wondering without taking the glass off if hitting it 12x is worth it. I will focus on maxing out the right ramp one of these times just to see the modes, but was wondering if it was a viable scoring option in a typical game.

Well frenzy scoring starts at 250k per switch and goes to 1m per switch. It is decent, but IMO, modes and Multiball are what you want.. and when you can introduce a frenzy during a multiball mode.. it's the icing on the cake.

#4627 10 months ago

Hi everyone. Have two issues with my Crypt. The right coin door light gets hot and burns out, giving me the ozone smell. But not immediately. It seems to happen after a few games. Possible transistor issue or just a faulty wire?

Second, I hooked up the shaker motor (which I was apprehensive to do) and it’s cool, but man it’s powerful. Is there a way to reduce the setting on it?

Thanks!

#4628 10 months ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

Second, I hooked up the shaker motor (which I was apprehensive to do) and it’s cool, but man it’s powerful. Is there a way to reduce the setting on it?
Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-adjust-a-shaker-motor-on-tftc-tutorial

#4629 10 months ago

New TFTC owner here! Mine came with powder coated armor that I'm not a fan of so I'm looking to change. Has anyone here had theirs powder coated? Looking to see what colors fit the machine well.

#4630 10 months ago

Hi @cobrasvs. I powder coated mine same color of the handle. Quite a nice look IMO but i hope it will help you

IMG_1733 (resized).jpegIMG_1733 (resized).jpeg

#4631 10 months ago
Quoted from Pommy:

Hi @cobrasvs. I power coated mine same color of the handle. Quite a nice look IMO but i hope it will help you
[quoted image]

That color powder coat looks amazing on your TFTC. You chose well.

Gord

#4632 10 months ago

I’ve been wanting to do a gold vein powder coat on mine just like that. How bad is it removing the side rails? Also curious if it’s possible to put Stern side rails (with the button guards) on this machine. Only wear on my cab is around the buttons, would love to cover it and add protection.

#4633 10 months ago

I too like the choice of color for the powder coat. I think that bronze color looks sharp. I've been working on art blades for TFTC. I've never been happy with the ones floating around out there to be purchased. I decided to make my own art blades that include the comic book covers. I have two different versions. (still undecided on which one I want to go with) One has all the comic covers from the series and the other has a little less but larger images. Attached are the ones that are larger images with less covers.

TFTC LS (resized).PNGTFTC LS (resized).PNGTFTC RS (resized).PNGTFTC RS (resized).PNG

#4634 10 months ago

Here are the ones that have all the covers. It's a little more busy however.

TFTC LS all (resized).PNGTFTC LS all (resized).PNGTFTC RS all (resized).PNGTFTC RS all (resized).PNG
#4635 10 months ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

I too like the choice of color for the powder coat. I think that bronze color looks sharp. I've been working on art blades for TFTC. I've never been happy with the ones floating around out there to be purchased. I decided to make my own art blades that include the comic book covers. I have two different versions. (still undecided on which one I want to go with) One has all the comic covers from the series and the other has a little less but larger images. Attached are the ones that are larger images with less covers.
[quoted image][quoted image]

These are great

#4636 10 months ago
Quoted from Pommy:

Hi @cobrasvs. I powder coated mine same color of the handle. Quite a nice look IMO but i hope it will help you
[quoted image]

Wow, I never considered gold but that looks absolutely fantastic. Wound you mind a close up of it so I can see the texture?

#4637 10 months ago

that does look super sick matching the door handle- I need to find someone locally to powder coat

#4638 10 months ago

How do you get to the light in the start button to change the bulb? Thing perplexes me

#4639 10 months ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

I too like the choice of color for the powder coat. I think that bronze color looks sharp. I've been working on art blades for TFTC. I've never been happy with the ones floating around out there to be purchased. I decided to make my own art blades that include the comic book covers. I have two different versions. (still undecided on which one I want to go with) One has all the comic covers from the series and the other has a little less but larger images. Attached are the ones that are larger images with less covers.
[quoted image][quoted image]

These are awesome. Love the comic art from this series. A backglass that was similar would be great too.

#4640 10 months ago
Quoted from PanzerKraken:

How do you get to the light in the start button to change the bulb? Thing perplexes me

With the game off, you grab the white switch/button with the wires on it, kinda work it back and forth side to side, and pull it out from the black housing. It will 'snap' out, and after replacing the bulb you reverse the process and 'snap' it back in, lining up black button tabs with switch button. After you've done it a couple times you'll get a feel for it. I put a red led in mine just to make it even redder-er-er, but leds have that raised plastic ring around them and sometimes are tricky to get into lit button housings. Also, in free play mode the start button is ALWAYS blinking, which kinda annoyed me, so I unsoldered the bulb wires and tapped them into my lit flipper button power, so start button just stays lit.
(sample button pic added)
20230614_220745 (resized).jpg20230614_220745 (resized).jpg

#4641 10 months ago

Thanks guys for your comments !! Sorry for the late respond. I powder coated my TFTC with a Metal Shop in my town. Some pics as wanted. Was supposed to have forged also the head with the same finish but the project is on ice

IMG_1736 (resized).jpegIMG_1736 (resized).jpegIMG_1737 (resized).jpegIMG_1737 (resized).jpegIMG_1738 (resized).jpegIMG_1738 (resized).jpegIMG_1741 (resized).jpegIMG_1741 (resized).jpeg
#4642 10 months ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

Here are the ones that have all the covers. It's a little more busy however.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Great Nightmare !!! Superb idea !!

#4643 10 months ago
Quoted from Pommy:

Thanks guys for your comments !! Sorry for the late respond. I powder coated my TFTC with a Metal Shop in my town. Some pics as wanted. Was supposed to have forged also the head with the same finish but the project is on ice
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looking great!

#4644 10 months ago
Quoted from Pommy:

I powder coated my TFTC with a Metal Shop in my town. Some pics as wanted. Was supposed to have forged also the head with the same finish but the project is on ice

Do you know what the powder coater guy called that texture? Crinkle? Pitted?
I'm guessing the head mod would consist of routing a groove in the front edge as if for plastic t-molding, but using 4 pieces of metal 't-molding' trim instead? Or, less permanent, maybe just using flat metal attached with small nails?

#4645 10 months ago

pretty cool powdercoat on that TFTC for sale in GA. anyone else done this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-tales-from-the-crypt-124

#4646 10 months ago
Quoted from Crispy77:

pretty cool powdercoat on that TFTC for sale in GA. anyone else done this?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-tales-from-the-crypt-124

That is pretty neat. I think I’d have to see it in person. I’d still probably prefer the chrome but I have been thinking about shopping mine and adding glow rubbers instead of the purple ones on it. Think this one sold me.

What are the GI lights? I see the bulbs are lit in one of the pictures, but the PF/Plastics don’t really look lit up.

#4647 10 months ago
Quoted from miracleman:

Do you know what the powder coater guy called that texture? Crinkle? Pitted?
I'm guessing the head mod would consist of routing a groove in the front edge as if for plastic t-molding, but using 4 pieces of metal 't-molding' trim instead? Or, less permanent, maybe just using flat metal attached with small nails?

Sorry but I don't know what type or name of the paint finish but it took several steps to get to this result. Regarding the metal head, the guy explained to me that it was necessary to make 2 molds of the original head. The first step was to make a copy of the head in latex and then made the mold which looked like a pumice stone texture in which he was to pour his metal in fusion to make an exact copy. Thereafter, it remained to do the painting..... and all for the ironic modest sum $$$ which is not really worth it

#4648 10 months ago

The powder coat style is typically called "veined".

As far as the neon green ramps and habit trails...I'll just say to each their own. They're a little too much for my taste, and I would definitely not buy the game because of it (if I were in the market). But obviously no offense to anyone who does like it.

#4649 10 months ago
Quoted from miracleman:

With the game off, you grab the white switch/button with the wires on it, kinda work it back and forth side to side, and pull it out from the black housing. It will 'snap' out, and after replacing the bulb you reverse the process and 'snap' it back in, lining up black button tabs with switch button. After you've done it a couple times you'll get a feel for it. I put a red led in mine just to make it even redder-er-er, but leds have that raised plastic ring around them and sometimes are tricky to get into lit button housings. Also, in free play mode the start button is ALWAYS blinking, which kinda annoyed me, so I unsoldered the bulb wires and tapped them into my lit flipper button power, so start button just stays lit.
(sample button pic added)
[quoted image]

Thank you!

#4650 10 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:The powder coat style is typically called "veined".

Thank You!

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