Guys, I swear I'm not gonna be one of those new owners that is constantly asking questions, but here's a question. Game was playing fine, for some dumb reason I decided to go into the diagnostics menu and check to make sure everything was working. I went through a couple test, everything seemed good, did a burn in test for like a minute. Started a new game, since then my left captive ball switch doesn't register, my werewolf spinner on the left doesn't register, the crypt door just keeps going up and down, and the crypt door also doesn't register when the ball hits it. WTF!!! Help!

Diagnostic menu didn't cause any of that. Just bad luck. Go back to the menu and try switch tests, and resolve as necessary.

Well I thought I found the culprit, this 2n3904 was testing bad. Swapped it out and game worked perfect again for about ten minutes...then it happened again. Any ideas?

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You diagnosed a switch column issue, I think you are on the right track....
I would first check each component in that column for shorted contacts, loose wires or diodes,
Then it could be that SN74LS244 chip but usually the entire column would just not be working

@MStem80, all those switches you say aren't working are all in the same row of the switch matrix. check for loose wires (green/black wire) or loose connnectors (CN8-5). could also be a faulty diode.

Came across this TFTC .pdf quick reference chart. very helpful in a pinch.

Data_East_Tales_From_The_Crypt_Tech_Chart.pdf

Inkochnito has a great collection of tech charts and apron cards for all sorts of games here : http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

What does everyone have their replay set at? I have the Chad 4.0 code and it defaultd to replay at 450,000,000. I can't even come close lol, my best score is right around 300,000,000.

That's the default, I think. As you continue to suck (like me) it will lower the replay score automatically. I think my replay is now at 135,000 because I suck big time.

My replay is 520,000,000, but I'm pretty consistent at putting up 400-600 million.

What's your strategy? My highest score is 422,531,050 but haven't come close to that again. I managed to almost complete every mode in the first ball. Then immediately drained the next 2.

OEM did not have any sleeving rubber on the tall metal posts.
If you have the rubber sleevings on, remove the far left one from the metal post.

Does the captive ball have the clear mylar installed against the metal flatrail?
Service bulletin No. 045.

Hit the 25 and 50 mill jackpots on Crypt MB and you can get there pretty quick. Also doing well on Door Prize. That's how I've broken 500 mill a few times. I've gotten to Crypt Jam once before and only had about 300 mill. I couldn't miss the scoop shot that game.

Had to look it up, going to check mine later when I put a glo-ball in
https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb45.pdf

The #1 high score on this game here on on Pinside is 3,940,740,500. That was me, so I will share my strategy.

First, before we begin, that was prior to the ChadH 4.0 code update. I find it much more difficult to score that high ever since I did that update. But I am working on it. Since the ChadH 4.0 code update, I average 1,000,000,000+ per game and have a few 2 and 3 billion scores.

#1 for me is Monster Jackpot. If you can somehow land that with all 6 balls in play, it's even more lucrative. But just 2-3 balls in play and it's still a huge score.

I also try and get ripping through the spinners as often as possible during all of the ramp modes like bats, etc. They can add up to some hefty points.

Make use of all "mystery door" and "chop pops" scores every time you hit an outlane, as there often isn't anything else that can score you more.

When you hit the spinners, and it changes the lit creature feature, go ahead and hit the door handle button to lock it in when it hits extra ball. You'll need and want that no matter how far you get in the game.

Focus on trying to get to Crypt Jam, but don't worry about trying to complete harder missions like Keeper Targets since they're lower scoring and more dangerous. You don't need to complete missions to activate Crypt Jam on this game, you just need to activate and start them.

Going for Crypt Jam gives you chances at an Extra Ball and Super Crypt Kicker since they need completed anyway.

If you get to Crypt Jam, then go for spinners, since all targets score 1,000,000, you'll rack up the most points with those and bumper shots. Once Crypt Jam is done, you'll get to go for Extra Ball and Super Crypt Kicker again.

One other thing I would like to note, I changed it to award an Extra Ball instead of specials (free games) so as you progress through and get somewhere, you have another chance or two of an extra ball to reward you. This is the only change I made.

I did that score before I even had good flippers. I played it with them for years and finally rebuilt them this past winter. Now I'll be even more dangerous. I also keep it super clean, waxed, and a pretty good pitch for high speed.

I still have this game and am happy to discuss it deeper anytime. Hope these tips help. I'll add more as I think of them.

Agree, Monster jackpots are definitely the path to crazy scores.
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That said, for anyone feeling badly about their score, keep in mind, this is pinball, if it's at your house, you are the operator and can set it up to the difficulty you enjoy.
Scores are kind of meaningless unless everyone is playing on the same machine

Consider the following to adjust the difficulty:
Right outlane has a post, you could remove it completely, or you can tighten it up to make the lane less hungry.

Adjust the tilt so you can save a ball coming SDTM with a warning.. or maybe you want that to be end of ball. up to you.

Adjust the slings to be (less) sensitive. the more lateral movement down here, the more likely to lose the ball..

Adjust the playfield pitch (typically I find a steeper set up will yield faster play, but also longer ball times with less lateral movement going to the outlanes)

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Software adjustments:

Adjustments for your multiball start spotting letters
Increase tilt warnings?
Carry forward goring modes?
Extra balls etc.

Just some ideas anyway.. it's a tough game to get the difficulty dialed in on. Too easy and it can go on for hours.. too difficult, and nobody will ever reach crypt jam .. I thought I had mine pretty good until a local champ made crypt jam on his first try.. lol

Your spinners also need to be able to rip, mine were cleaned and I added a drop of silicone treadmill lube on each side of the spinner wire form.

To add to what seven said, lock the kicker creature feature too as that can save you.

I looked at the high scores today, it’s nice that you, seven only add your highest score, there is someone here that added over 5 of their scores like it was their personal high score board.. lol.

Sounds like I need to rebuild my flippers and lube my spinners.

This annoys me a little. I think I was guilty of it too at times, since I’d get on the board and then get a much higher score later on. I’ll have to look and see if I can delete any of the lower scores if and where I may be guilty of having multiple scores up for the same game.

I can actually back hand the left ramp with my left flipper and I’ve even backhanded the right ramp with the right flipper since the rebuild. It’s insane!

I noticed a big difference once I lubed the spinners. Frightmare got much easier, and I can rip off 30-50 million on Thunderstorm now.

That is insane, and a game changer for scoring possibilities. Is there a kit you used to do the rebuild? I've never done a full rebuild before, any resources you're aware of that can assist me would be appreciated. You rebuilt the upper flipper as well?

I never thought it was possible to backhand either of those ramps. I also got the trick shot with the right flipper recently. It's all about the angles, but now there's plenty of power to get the ball there.

Rebuilding flippers used to be something I disliked and would avoid. But now it's such a regular thing for me, I almost look forward to it.

I got this kit from Pinball Life:

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DE0493-0795

I only did the bottom 2 flippers since the upper right works pretty good still and I don't want to smash things up real bad up there.

I did not use a guide, but this one looks like it covers everything and then some:

https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-flipper-rebuilding-how-to-fix-and-replace/

Take pictures before you do anything, make sure you can see where the wires on the coils go, which way the end of stroke switches go and etc. Just take apart and reassemble, take more pics along the way if you need to.

*I also changed both coils. This requires de-soldering the old ones and re-soldering the new ones in. If you do this, be sure to orient the wires from the old coil to the same, corresponding lugs and positions on the new coil. I probably didn't need to do this but the one on the left looked like it was coming unwound a little.

It's probably easiest to take the whole mechanism out of the game and do it on a work bench or something. If you're already replacing the coils, then this is definitely the best way I think.

If you're not doing the coils, you can leave the assemblies in there, especially if you don't want to de-solder and re-solder the coils back in. It just takes a little patience and awkward angles to get everything swapped out. Plus you can't get in there and polish and clean everything up closer to restoration standards unless you take it all out.

One final note.. I also changed my cabinet leaf switches at the flipper buttons. Although the flippers were weak and needed rebuilt, there was still an intermittent issue with the left flipper losing power or not making good contact. The leaf switches were a bit corroded and probably original from factory judging by the looks of them so after swapping them, it was next level awesome.

If you do those, here's a link to the one on the right which is a double due to the upper right flipper.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5122-00

Here's the one for the left side:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5048-01

Keep in mind if you just search for 180-5122-00 and 180-5048-01 you may or may not be able to find them elsewhere for less.

Thanks a lot for this write up! Moving this up on my shortlist of pinball projects to do.

You’re welcome and no problem! I wasn’t trying to make it so long but figured I’d try and cover it all plus some tidbits on how or why I went the route I did, depending on circumstances.

Nice, my record was 1.270.xxx.xxx.
I did it with chad code, standard setting.
Did crypt jam which gave huge boost on score. Imaging doing almost 4 billions sounds unbelievable. I manage to do only few more scores around 600 milions.

Joined the club today with a non booting project! Seems to have good *bones* just needs some TLC It doesn't have the door handle shooter, just a plain launch button to that is broken also. What have people done to get a new door handle shooter?

I'll be installing NVRAM and the Chad code and a full shop job eventually. Want to get it booting first obviously.

There are posts about this, I think that people have found some compatible door handle assemblies at hardware stores. I believe you then just need the plastic head that goes over it. If you have trouble finding it, I have a spare one that is broken on the rear side screw holder, but would probably hold or could be reinforced.

I'll PM you about it.

On a side note, I'll probably start a separate thread about troubleshooting this thing. First things I've done are remove batteries, re-seat connectors on the boards, and verified all of the fuses.

Turns out there at least 2 coils that lock on, so I'll be digging around under the playfield and studying the schematics to see what drivers might need replacing and what might be causing the coils to lock. I'm not super familiar with this boardset, so it'll be a good learning experience for me. Any help would be appreciated!

If the coils lock on instantly after powering on then it’s those transistors. If the game isn’t booting you have to verify good 5v is getting to your mpu. I’m not a big Williams guy but I think the east east boards were a close copy of willliams system 11s so they are similar in diagnosis

Yeah, they are locking on power up instantly. I think I identify at least 4 coils that lock on. Would there be any reason that one pesky coil would cause others to lock on?

I'm not familiar with System 11 boards either. I am pretty familiar with early SS Bally, and only somewhat Bally/WMS.

I'll have to check where I can verify 5V to the MPU.

4, that’s not good . I’m not too sure, depends how the diodes are setup on the board which could cause an issue like that. I assume the fuses blow quick ?

You can start with the power board if it has test points or else you have to look at the schematic to see where the 5V is coming in on the connector to the mpu (from the power board) . The mpu may also have a test point. Can’t remember where but the schematics will lead you to the promised land!

Yeah, the more I dig into it, the more of a nutcase this game is. I was expecting some work, but not this much. But it'll come back to life on way or another.

Last resort would be replacement boards, but I want to try to repair what I have first. It'll be a long road but I'm sure it'll come back after some work!

I'll have to see if there are test point anywhere on any of the boards.

Good luck. Also visually inspect the power board. If the caps are blown or suspect that would be a direct cause of no boot.

Thanks. Just from the quick glance, there appears to be no obvious damage. I haven't had a chance to see if there is any battery damage to the MPU yet, but I didnt see much (if any) corrosion on the front side. I'll have to take it off and check the backside.

Here's the thread so we can keep this one a little more clean
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tales-from-the-crypt-troubleshooting-thread#post-7522432

Updated my thread but will ask here too. Still no boot after installing a new 6802 chip. The 5v and PIA LEDS stay lit and the kickback coil locks on. Also the middle VUK fires on startup but doesn't lock.

I don't have a test rom nor do I have a burner. Also don't have a logic probe or oscilloscope. Do you think the problem is singled out to the MPU? I've got a Chad code ROM coming, but after that, I'm probably going to send the board for repair, if it takes more than some intermediate troubleshooting.

Does anyone in the US make the clear long plastic on the right side? I found the one on pinball protectors website but their shipping is 50+USD.

I need one of those too.

I was surprised to see the CPR repro plastics didn't include these. Kind of a bummer. I am able to salvage the other clear plastics, but I'd like to replace the long one. It also didn't include the plastic over the shooter lane. I'd rather have that than the stand up display they have.

I have an extra 1" plastic gray spacer leftover. Anyone know where that might belong offhand?

I received a bloody mods this week…perfect for my TFTC

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Figured I'd do a quick stream of my TFTC if anyone wants to join, starting now ... thanks!

https://www.twitch.tv/pinbruh

Cool your game koji

Happy to report that my tftc is back up and running after a week being down. While I was in the repairing process I decided to remove the cliffy from the scoop that puts you into the creature feature mods, and wow...the game is so much more enjoyable to play now. I can actually make the shot with regular consistency instead of the constant bricks the cliffy was giving me.

The scoop “protector” on mine definitely makes the plunk noise and rejects the ball from the scoop over 50% of the time. It creates additional challenge and nothing else in my gameroom makes that same noise. I might end up also ripping mine out, next time I clean it.

Yeah, it's a shame as it is nice to cover the natural wear here.. but it just negatively impacts the gameplay too much.

Consider the mantis protector that is made here, if you are concerned about preserving the area after touch-ups or on a nice PF.

Been wanting to give the mantis protector a try, curious how it performs over the cliffy.

I've had mantis protectors on other games and I feel they do a very good job. I'm a little torn because my scoop hole has wear, and a cliffy would cover it up, but I'm also a fan of mantis. Plus if I were to repair the worn hole and put a mantis in, how long before the repaired areas get bad again just due to it not being from the same piece of wood? (ie filler or putty)

I had filled and touched up my scoop with a cliffy, but ended up removing it, and put in the mantis. I just put some mylar over the edges of the wood here, and have not noticed any issues with scoop wear, or breaking where I had filler etc.. been like this for quite a while and seems to be fine.

Clipped this "Trick shot" from the stream. Couldn't seem to repeat it, but sometimes I can get it a few times in a row.. Fun strat, HUGE if you can get the timing right.

https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkx4KpYbcg7OjyEMtPLD9Kk1_5p-M-NQtR8

HD version still processing.